{"product":{"product_id":"B000EJ332O","title":"Fluke 1AC-A1-II VoltAlert Non-Contact Voltage Tester, Pocket-Sized, Voltage Detection Range 90 V to 1000 V AC, Audible Beeper, Silent Mode, Includes Batteries And 2 Year Warranty, CAT IV 1000 V Rating","price":"29.3","image_url":"https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41+hJkJF+3L._SL500_.jpg","url":"https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EJ332O"},"comments":[{"body":"Not an electrician, but I’ve done stuff like this a handful of times. This all sounds right.\r\n\r\nI’d additionally recommend a non-contact voltage tester. Something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000EJ332O\r\n\r\nHelps to give a little extra assurance that you aren’t about to get shocked.","subreddit_name":"trashy","author":"InvestigatorN0"},{"body":"Looks like a fluke contactless voltage tester to me. \r\n\r\nhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EJ332O/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_-GC-Db0M5M9FT\r\n\r\nIt is not the danger, It detects the danger. Or in more practical cases, beeps while you shut off breakers to figure out which outlet goes to what circuit.","subreddit_name":"Catswithjobs","author":"nattack"},{"body":"This is why I always recommend testing wiring/equipment when doing electrical work. Even experienced electricians screw up and testing will save your life. Obviously a meter works best but I often recommend a non-contact voltage tester or \"tic tracer\" [like this](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EJ332O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ooGaEbSM4R7H2). Good luck on the next one.","subreddit_name":"HomeImprovement","author":"RealFakeDors"},{"body":"Working with electricity can be a little intimidating/scary but it's really not that bad.  If you don't have one, I would buy a [non-contact voltage tester](https://smile.amazon.com/Fluke-1AC-A1-II-VoltAlert-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B000EJ332O/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2H99OGM5D6HQC\u0026amp;dchild=1\u0026amp;keywords=non+contact+voltage+detector\u0026amp;qid=1625922694\u0026amp;sprefix=non+contact+v%2Caps%2C234\u0026amp;sr=8-6).  Then:\r\n\r\n1) Turn off the breaker to that circuit\r\n\r\n2) Unscrew  and remove the face plate\r\n\r\n3) Use your voltage tester by placing it on the wires on the sides of the receptacle where the screws are.  The hot wires should be the black wires, but I always test both sides to be safe (could be wired incorrectly).  No beeping from tester and it should be safe to now work with.\r\n\r\n4) Unscrew the receptacle from the wall, but don't take off the wires yet.  Take  a picture of how the wire are connected.\r\n\r\n5) The outlet may have just three wires going to it (white/black/ground).  In this case, the outlet is at the end of the circuit and doesn't feed any other downstream outlets.  If there are two sets of wires (5 wires- two white, two black and a ground), then this outlet does feed another downstream outlet.  \r\n\r\n6) If you look at the back  of your new GFCI outlet, you should see that it has a set of screws/inserts labels LINE and a set labeled LOAD.  You should have the same marking on your old outlet.  The LINE wires Supply the incoming power.  The LOAD side send the power down to the next device. \r\n\r\n7) Now just unscrew and disconnect the wires.  Reconnect the wires the same way they were hooked up before.  The black (hot) wires should be connected to the Brass/gold colored screws and the white (neutral) wires should be connected to the silver screws.\r\n\r\n8) Most of the newer GFCI outlets work by stripping of the sheathing and just inserting the wires into the back of the outlet and tightening the wires on them.\r\n\r\nTighten everything down and re-install.","subreddit_name":"electricians","author":"usincltnc"},{"body":"You local PBS channel should have current episodes and air older episodes sometimes. \r\n\r\nNot sure if you were joking about the ceiling fan, but if the power was properly turned off then you could not get a shock. Never attempt to touch any wires without first testing them, always use some kind of [Voltage Tester](https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-1AC-A1-II-VoltAlert-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B000EJ332O). \r\n\r\nI don't think it's unreasonable for a homeowner to know how to replace a light switch or outlet. I don't do anything that involves adding to or modifying the breaker panel (besides just turning the breakers on and off, of course)\r\n\r\nAs far as DYI, I'm more inclined to work on electrical then plumbing (depends on what it is, I seem to always get some drips when finished!) and I never work on gas.","subreddit_name":"homeowners","author":"emotion_chip"},{"body":"Their diagrams don’t really have an example showing this exact use case, which can be a bit confusing.\r\n\r\n\r\nBasically the easy part is the first three wires:\r\n\r\n-Black: tie into 120V line, which *should* also be black, but it’s not a bad idea to use a [non-contact voltage detector](https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-1AC-A1-II-VoltAlert-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B000EJ332O/) to confirm. (You should have one of these anyway to confirm wires aren’t live before you touch them - obviously you cut the power before doing any wiring.)\r\n\r\n-white: tie into neutral, which should be white as well\r\n\r\n-red: tie into red wires, which are you interconnect (communication between detectors)\r\n\r\n\r\nOkay, now regardless of what you’re using the relay for, you need to use the common wire (blue). Basically when the relay is not active (no alarm), the blue wire is switched to the yellow wire (so those two wires would complete a circuit when alarm is not active). When the relay activated, the blue wire is switched to the orange wire, completing a circuit from the blue to orange wires.\r\n\r\n\r\nThe way I have the door sensor set up is that when it sees the circuit completed, it knows the alarm was triggered. This is the default for that door sensor when you configure it to use the relay.\r\n\r\n\r\nWhat they’re showing in the manual is similar, but they’re activating a siren by completing the circuit between 120V and the siren.\r\n\r\n\r\nHopefully that makes sense.\r\n\r\n\r\nOnce you get everything hooked up, you’ll want to test your detectors and make sure everything is still working correctly.","subreddit_name":"homeassistant","author":"mrcj22"},{"body":"For electrical tools there is the [non contact voltage tester.](http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-1AC-A1-II-VoltAlert-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B000EJ332O/) They're great for troubleshooting but, please, always verify with a digital multimeter before you touch a circuit. A GOOD multimeter, not the $20 auto parts store special.\r\n\r\nFor a decent DMM go with Extech or Amprobe. The best stuff is Fluke. The Fluke 117 is a good, \"cheap\" household handyman multimeter. The 87 is the best basic meter, in my professional opinion.\r\n\r\nYour electrical testing tools is literally the only thing separating you from deadly electricity. Don't cheap out on them. And, yes, the 120v household power is more than enough to kill you.","subreddit_name":"AskMen","author":"Zediac"},{"body":"Lol yes that's another great example of the superstition I was talking about. \r\n\r\nGood news: you can buy a fluke ncvt that probably uses the exact same sensor as the ncvt mode on their multimeter.\r\n\r\nhttps://www.amazon.com/Fluke-1AC-A1-II-VoltAlert-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B000EJ332O/ref=asc_df_B000EJ332O/","subreddit_name":"Whatcouldgowrong","author":"SecurelyObscure"},{"body":"Make sure you de-energize the wires when you swap the connectors at the wire nuts. You may have a breaker labeled “smokes” or they may be wired in with a nearby lighting circuit. I like this non-contact tester to confirm the power is off:\r\n\r\nFluke 1AC-A1-II VoltAlert Non-Contact Voltage Tester, Pocket-Sized, Voltage Detection Range 90 V to 1000 V AC, Audible Beeper, Silent Mode, Includes Batteries And 2 Year Warranty, CAT IV 1000 V Rating https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EJ332O/\r\n\r\nYou just need to unscrew the wire nuts and match wire color on the new smoke detector pigtails. Check YouTube for a video on wire nut installation if you’ve never done it before.","subreddit_name":"HomeImprovement","author":"Rcarlyle"},{"body":"Before you pay a electrician to do anything, here is a simple test you can do that is 100% safe for any homeowner. \r\n\r\nFluke 1AC-A1-II VoltAlert Non-Contact Voltage Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EJ332O/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_VB5BYRRSE94PSQRNSVF1?_encoding=UTF8\u0026amp;psc=1\r\n\r\nGet this exact tool, make sure it's 90-1000v if you live in Canada or the US. \r\n\r\n I've had failures on everything from super cheap to super expensive. Fluke is what I carry everyday, whether I'm doing service work or on a big job! \r\n\r\nIt is a non-contact voltage tester that you can't get shocked from!\r\n\r\nTest those wires, if they're hot, call a certified electrician! \r\nIf they're not then you won't get the \"emergency\" charge for a company to come out and visit you!","subreddit_name":"electricians","author":"Openingseventh9"},{"body":"Everyone and their dog recommends [this one](https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000EJ332O/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_FC6BTPY3JWRMRNT02Z14) so I bought one of those fairly early on, but the greenlee that came with the starter kit I had works fine still as well (can't find a link, not even on greenlee's website. Seems to be discontinued.) To be perfectly honest I would probably trust fluke over any other brand for any electrical testing devices but the more important thing to remember is that they are precision instruments. Treat them like precision instruments and they will serve you well for many years.","subreddit_name":"electricians","author":"myaccisbest"},{"body":"Throw it away. Buy this:\r\n\r\nFluke 1AC-A1-II VoltAlert... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EJ332O?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share\r\n\r\nMy apprentices all use that same Klein tester. It's fucking trash. Either it's *waaaaay* too sensitive, or inaccurate; in either case, it can't be trusted. I've used/seen Greenlee, Klein, and Southwire tic tracers. I'll never buy any of them again. Just re-bought this Fluke because I lost the first one. Not as reliable as a meter, obviously, but for a quick safety check, it is quite trustworthy.","subreddit_name":"electricians","author":"The_Orphanizer"},{"body":"I'm trying to replace the switches in my house with smart ones and for that, I'd need to turn the electricity off at the breaker. \r\n\r\nUnfortunately, things are wired weird in my house. I cannot be certain that if the switch does nothing it means there's no power to the switch vs no power to the light fixture itself. \r\n\r\nHow can I reliably test if the switch has power or not?\r\n\r\nI got a [voltage tester](https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-1AC-A1-II-VoltAlert-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B000EJ332O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1\u0026amp;keywords=fluke+voltalert\u0026amp;qid=1631060886\u0026amp;sr=8-3), but I'm not sure if I'm using it right because it gives me inconsistent reports with plug points. How can I use it with a switch (without unscrewing it). Or is there a better tool?","subreddit_name":"DIY","author":"royrules22"},{"body":"oh my goodness!!! what a great little gadget. I had no idea something like this even exists. I checked Amazon Canada but there are so many of these, and the instruction videos shows them sticking it into the hole of the wall plug. Yeah of course it has electricity inside. Will it work on any surface like a lets say a metal countertop that is \"live\" for whatever reasons???\r\n\r\nI am going to buy the one a little expensive because it seems to be a reliable brand as per the reviews. Please let me know what you think and tell me if it will work on any conducting surfaces??\r\n\r\nhttps://www.amazon.ca/Fluke-1AC-A1-II-Volt-Alert-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B000EJ332O/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi\u0026amp;ie=UTF8\u0026amp;qid=1518252273\u0026amp;sr=1-5\u0026amp;keywords=non+contact+voltage+tester\r\n\r\nHow about that one please??","subreddit_name":"askanelectrician","author":"clarkent0000"},{"body":"I'll second the call from /u/Cheech47 that you should get a multi-meter. I'll go even further and say you should also get a [non-contact voltage tester](https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-1AC-A1-II-VoltAlert-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B000EJ332O). The one linked is my preference, but just don't pick up whatever cheapy they have at Home Depot or Lowes. You want one that will work in a marginally crowded box without just going off because \\*something\\* in there is hot. =)\r\n\r\n\r\n","subreddit_name":"homeautomation","author":"Drathus"}]}