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FYSETC Ender 5 Plus Bed Columns, 4Pcs 3D Printer Solid Bed Mounts Height 0.7in, Heat Bed Leveling Part, OD 0.63 in Stable Heat-Resistant Buffer for Ender 5 Pro Ant A8 Wanhao D9 Prus i3 Meg pro?
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You don’t really want solid. You want something more firm than the stock springs, yet still flexible. Otherwise it would be impossible to actually level the bed.
Having said that, Here is what I bought and have been happy with.
FYSETC 3D Printer Leveling Parts,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MR7Q986?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It's still in the mail. But I've also been told that replacing the bed springs help with that a lot as well. There's some rubber bushings you can get that seemed to be the best option according to several people of spoken with. here is the link to them https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MR7Q986/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_4BE6WEVZZ8TX7PSCZQ4P
You should tighten them about 75% then follow a manual Leveling process. Then reset your z offset then run an auto level and build a new mesh.
If you still have the stock springs consider upgrading to some silicone bed springs. Be sure to print the referenced cable guide as well for the bed.
Rather than springs, people have been recommending silicone bushings. I have yet to buy them but search that term and you’ll find more posts about it.
My Ender 5 Plus was my first Creality, second printer. I personally like the stock bed over my smooth glass bed on my other printer. Absolutely zero adhesion issues once I got my z offset properly dialed in.
I agree that you shouldn't go too overboard right out of the gate, but here are some basics to consider early on:
- Bed Cable Strain Relief: I'd consider this a must-have, as the cables are pretty vulnerable without.
- Silicone Bed Levels: to replace the stock springs. With these in, I haven't had to re-level the bed in months.
Enjoy your new printer!
I think you bought the wrong set. They should all be the same height for the E5+. Here are the ones I purchased on Amazon.
Here are the ones I bought on Amazon, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MR7Q986/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_5JH0A4S507F54D2GMZ31?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1. The pictures show most dimensions.
It seems there was a video that is no longer linked.
When I first got mine, the biggest problem was getting it correctly level between the bed and printhead. If it isn't done properly, you may end up with areas where adhesion is good, others where it's crap, and some in between.
I'm a bit nutty compared to others when it comes to leveling, for now... I've got experience with setting gaps for older cars ignitions, which led me to getting a set of metric feeler guages. I have been using the 0.4mm guage. I adjust until there's enough friction to feel, but not so much that it bends when I push the guage and that works very well. However, you have to do about three rounds to get the whole bed level. Also, the springs are shit. I skipped upgrading them and went to silicone. FYSETC 3D Printer Leveling Parts, Heat Bed Silicone Leveling, Column OD 0.63 in ID 0.16 in Stable Hot Bed Tool Heat-Resistant Silicone Buffer for Anet A8 Wanhao D9 Prusa i3 Mega,4 Pack Black Here's an image of one in my machine - Silicone Feet not Springs
The white wheel is a press-on designed specifically for the Mega S, though it may fit the others, too. Bed Leveling Knob "Tire" for Anycubic i3 Mega. They make it easier to level the bed.
Oh, and I've graduated from the feeler guages and have printed up a holder for a disk guage. You can find it here: Anycubic I3 Mega Digital Dial support The disk guage is Neoteck DTI Digital Dial Indicator
Yeah. They replace the springs under the bed. Higher damping force means the bed can't bounce around as much. I just installed these on my Ender 3 and they helped a lot with ringing.
Been using these for my ender 3 and bltouch. so far so good.