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I'd reccomend getting a G203, its $24.99 on Amazon.
If you really want to do the mod, I'd recommend getting new switches and leaving the existing ones in place then just jumping off the contacts. You'll need wire, new buttons, a drill, and a soldering iron.
If you've never done any mods or anything, this might be a bit of a challenge. I've done a lot of similar modding and think it will be pretty straight forward as long as space permits. My first Logitech mouse was a G300, I ended up taking it apart after it after it stopped working. I don't remember there being much room in the shell, but with small gauge wire you should be able to make it fit.
If you do end up doing the mod, I'd be interested in seeing it. Good luck!
As someone that has both new gaming mice and my old MX510, I highly suggest the Logitech G203. Using the G Hub software, you can configure the sensitivity, USB poll rate (I set to 500hz similar to MX510) and RGB lighting into a profile you can then transfer to the onboard memory of the mouse, eliminating the need for the the G Hub software or drivers. This works great with Windows XP, and is honestly even more accurate than my old MX510, the gold standard of the XP era.
The keyboards of the era were all pretty crappy. Very few were mechanical, and I think that was the cause of the craze for the IBM Model M. Though nowadays even a cheap Chinese mechanical pretty much blows anything average keyboard from the XP era out of the water.
"It's just better"
I think that when you look at a basic mech board like a ducky or a vortex the cost is justified. For 3-5x the cost of cheapy boards you get an excellent piece of high quality equipment that feels great to use.
And don't even get me started on cheap mice that don't have side buttons. However good mice are more attainable, you can get great stuff for under $30 these days. https://smile.amazon.com/Logitech-Prodigy-Wired-Gaming-Mouse/dp/B01M26YUKO/ref=zg_bs_402052011_10
Me encantan los mouse gamer por todo menos la apariencia. Yo me compré un Logitech G203 el año pasado porque pasa como piola a la vista, y no noté gran diferencia en las cosas que juego de vez en cuando (pero soy pésimo pa los fps).
Esa huea gamer de los led no es lo mío.
Well that is subjective, but I really like this mouse. It's also available refurbished on ebay for a couple bucks cheaper. Had it for nearly a year now, no issues.
WAS showing 24.99 on Amazon, now 29.99. It has routinely been marked all the way down to 19.99 a few times in the last few months. Ebay has it $23 for refurb, that's not a good deal imho. I'd just go with Amazon - good return policies if it comes to that.
>Do gaming mouses have an advantage? Or do they just have buttoms on them for key mapping?
Yes they have a distinct advantage. Sensor quality is huge, if you're using some shitty office mouse it will be really inaccurate and won't track fast movements etc. Generally quality fps mice don't have a ton of buttons and binding too many things on the mouse is something most good pc fps players have deemed bad since those button presses can fuck up your aim. Usually tons of buttons = shitty mmo mouse with garbage tech.
You could stop by /r/mousereview and ask for some recommendations
My recommendation would be just grab this while it's on sale since that's a great deal on a high end mouse.
Logitech G203 is my mouse of choice - it's essentially a G-Pro with a proprietary sensor and no braided cable. It has a phenomenal optical sensor though, good scroll wheel and buttons, comfortable for claw grip. With my big hands, the G203 is a little too small to palm grip. Costs between usually <40 USD. It has RGB lighting, but it's subtle and you can just turn it off if you don't like it. Has built-in storage so you can delete software after you configure it. Only thing you listed that it won't do is click the scroll wheel sideways
This one isn't! If you're into the look. I personally like the Corsair logo/style so that's what I was looking for. Logitech generally has better reviews, though.
EDIT: Actually, I guess there's a couple if you filter for mouses on here.
First of all, why would you choose the 4c/4t option instead of 6c/12t option? And why go for 2016 tech when 2017 has 7600K?
Furthermore, you want to cheap out on your case while still being able to overclock? Go Ryzen, they have $90 ATX OC-Ready motherboards.
my child this is a great mouse
Above has a great sensor, RGB, and is very cheap.
Over on mechanicalkeyboards.com , you can get a Ducky Shine 6 with PBT keycaps in: Cherry MX Brown, Blue, Red, an dSpeed/Silver switches, for $10 less than BW v2. If you need an even lower price, check out K70 RGB and Strafe series from Corsair. Not the best, but the ~~cheapest RGB Cherry mechs you can find on the market.~~ I forgot, they are the cheapest fullsized keyboard.
~~For the PSU, I would get a B3 instead. Why? It's like BQ but it's fully modular.~~ I realize that BQ has a $10 rebate. But if there was no rebate, B3 all the way.
Cryorig H7 is shadowed by Hyper 212 EVO, but Cryorig H7 is much better. It's a nice CPU cooler.
I also chose a cheaper memory kit.
D.Va and Wrecking Ball are good picks to start out with. You already understand their kits and how to play them, so you'll only have to focus on adjusting to mouse and keyboard. And they aren't the most aim-intensive heroes, so that's nice.
Do you have a good mouse? If you're still using some crappy wireless mouse, please do yourself a favor and get a wired gaming mouse such as the Logitech G203 Prodigy. It's not expensive, will be more accurate, and will give you a lot more options to adjust sensitivity in its software. Also, get a mousepad at least this big. It's worth it.
Once you have a good mouse, you need to turn off acceleration and change your mouse settings to ensure you'll have the most consistent performance. Go to control center>mouse>pointer options. Copy what mine look like in this image. Make sure "enhance pointer precision" is unchecked and your speed ticks are at the right position. You might think this feels weird to navigate with, but you'll get used to it. Your mouse is now reading your movement based on the distance you move your hand instead of speeding up/slowing down your pointer relative to how fast you move your hand. This makes for more accurate tracking in the long run. And before you nerds start attacking me, YES, I am aware that this step is not necessary for Overwatch, because Overwatch already uses raw mouse input. But trust me, turning off acceleration for your entire computer will help you develop proper muscle memory even outside OW. It's worth it if you plan on PC gaming at all. Most games don't use raw input by default.
Now go into your gaming mouse software and adjust the DPI until you feel more in-control of your movements. I recommend 1000 DPI for navigating around your desktop. This will likely feel sluggish if you're new to PC. You can go higher if you want, but keep in mind that most skilled players use a base DPI lower than 1000, especially for the more aim-intensive heroes (but you can adjust OW separately, as you'll see in a second). The slower it feels, the more space you have to work with when aiming, which results in more precise movements. If your DPI is too high, your crosshair will be flailing around like crazy because even the smallest movement will throw off your aim.
Now go into the settings in Overwatch and adjust your mouse sensitivity there. This is entirely separate from your gaming mouse software, so think of this as a compounding effect on how sensitive your mouse is. You can look up all kinds of combinations online. Usually they'll tell you the number in Overwatch and the DPI for the actual mouse. So 4 in-game, 800 dpi for example. Or they may use eDPI, or "effective DPI" (3,200 in this case). This gives a number that combines both values through multiplication. Here's a simple calculator for that. Also take a look at this page for more info on this stuff. At this point you should be all set as far as your mouse goes. Feel free to mess around with it. Tanks usually use a higher eDPI because they aren't sniping or snapping onto targets as much. Just go with what feels right. You can always change things later.
As far as keyboard setups, you can keep it essentially the same as default if you want. Remember to bind a key to "interact." I use 'F.' A lot of people change around their ult button or ability buttons for different heroes. Changing ult from 'Q' to 'shift' or 'ctrl' for example will allow you to simultaneously ult while moving left (because it frees up your ring finger), which is helpful for Tracer pulse bomb sticks. I personally bind melee to my side mouse buttons so I can do it anytime, and I have crouch set for 'V' so I can spam crouch with my thumb while moving left and right. This is a helpful tactic to dodge enemy shots and is much better than jumping. Put your emote, spray, and voice line buttons in spots where you will not hit them accidentally. The last thing you want is to emote mid-fight when you meant to press 'E.' Remember you can use certain keys to bring up different menus mid-game, such as 'P' to see your team and change voice channels. You can also bind keys to save highlights of your play manually mid-battle, or to save the POTG while it's being shown at the end of the match. If you plan on using the replay system (extremely helpful, I think), remember to bind those controls too.
Let me know if you have any other questions!
It's the same price right now on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/G203-Prodigy-Wired-Gaming-Mouse/dp/B01M26YUKO/
There aren't. Save your money and buy a G305 or G703, they're around the same price: 45-55 dollars. Buy once cry once. Quality is non negotiable unless you get lucky buying used, but then risk a whole different host of problems.
A better option is to get a G203 and call it a day. It is an amazing entry level mouse with a great sensor, shape, and quality control for under 30. Cables aren't as big of a hindrance as you think. Amazon is having a sale for it right now: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Prodigy-Wired-Gaming-Mouse/dp/B01M26YUKO/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=gaming+mouse&qid=1561870725&refinements=p_36%3A-2500&rnid=386453011&s=videogames&sr=1-5
A decent mousepad can be had for around 15 dollars. I recommend this: https://www.allsop.com/product/xl-mouse-pad-raindrop-28660/
It is a very, very good mousepad that will last a very long time and stand up to wear and tear and trades blows with much higher priced pads and beats out a lot of them.
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Prodigy-Wired-Gaming-Mouse/dp/B01M26YUKO It’s not, but it’s alright. Small mistake.
Logitech G203 Prodigy RGB Wired Gaming Mouse – Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M26YUKO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5MJ2TPTY465B2AXTC9F6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I bought this Logitech mouse 2 years ago. Never had an issue and still works.
This is on Amazon too same price. https://www.amazon.com/G203-Prodigy-Wired-Gaming-Mouse/dp/B01M26YUKO/
Got one in white. Gonna see if I like it better than my Razer Diamondback.
No problem! Always happy to help a fellow pc player! My processor is the Ryzen 1500x, a 7700 is definitely enough for almost everything lol. Let me know if you have any other questions! Heres some helpful links for the g203:
https://www.amazon.com/G203-Prodigy-Wired-Gaming-Mouse/dp/B01M26YUKO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1515872860&sr=8-1&keywords=g203 is the amazon link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V4lqxQL1x4U is a really great review of the mouse. This guy has so many other helpful videos, talking about how to find the best mouse, other mice, what keyboard is right for you, how to get good. This guy is actually amazing, and I highly recommend you check out his other videos.
This assumes you are willing build a PC with your son, or let him take the lead and have some adult supervision. Many users here have let kids that young assemble their PC, again, obviously with adult supervision. There are tons of build guides on the Internet for doing this.
I disable Mail In Rebates in PCpartpicker as they are basically scams. They take months to work and the companies tend to drag their feet on honoring them.
Low End Build:
Type | Item | Price |
---|---|---|
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 2400G 3.6 GHz Quad-Core Processor | $135.89 @ OutletPC |
Motherboard | MSI - B450 GAMING PRO CARBON AC ATX AM4 Motherboard | $136.98 @ Amazon |
Memory | Team - Vulcan 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $66.99 @ Newegg |
Storage | Western Digital - Blue 500 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $59.99 @ Amazon |
Case | Fractal Design - Focus G ATX Mid Tower Case | $50.54 @ Amazon |
Power Supply | RIOTORO - ONYX 650 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $64.99 @ Amazon |
Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts | ||
Total | $515.38 | |
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-05-31 17:11 EDT-0400 |
This is a lower budget PC. The price could be brought lower by going with a cheaper motherboard.
Explanations of Parts:
CPU: The Ryzen 2400g is a great starter CPU because it comes with integrated graphics. These graphics are not that good, but are good enough to run Fortnite and Roblox and so on. It can handle more modern games at playable levels, and about what a console like a PS4 can put out.
CPU Cooler: Ryzen CPUs come with a stock fan that works OK. It's good enough. If your son wants to overclock his CPU, he will need an aftermarket cooler. This can be done later, or purchased along with a new CPU in a couple years.
Motherboard: The Gaming Pro Carbon AC is the best B-450 Motherboard, and better then most of higher end X470 boards. Normally, I would never put a MOBO this good in a build this cheap. But there are several reasons why: 1) WIFI. This has one of the best wifi chips of any 400 series motherboard, and most wifi adapters that worth buying cost $30-50 anyway, so we may as well get the Pro Carbon if the kid needs wifi. 2) Ryzen 3000 CPUs launche on July 7, and AMD has committed to the AM4 CPU socket (IE the place where the CPU is installed) through 2020. The new Ryzen chips are so powerful that there is some debate about how well the lower end B-450s can handle some of the higher end new CPUs. This MOBO can definitely handle them. This means that the computer can grow with the kid. In 2 years or so, you can get whatever the last CPU that fits the AM4 socket is, after prices have fallen, and that should last another 4 years. 3.) Many the cheaper MOBOs are made by companies like Asrock and have poor BIOS design, and really bad manuals, and your kid is going to need to change a setting in the BIOS for the RAM.
Ram: Ryzen likes fast RAM. DDR4-3000 mhz or 3200 mhz. Team Vulcan is Budget RAM that works well with Ryzen. Even more so, the 2400g is going to want more RAM for it's integrated Graphics, so going 16 now makes a lot of sense. Don't get 8 gb of ram 2x4GB of Ram or a single stick of ram. Ryzen hates both 4 Ram stick setups, and single stick, and your son will likely want to get 16 GB of ram in the future. Right now Ram prices have fallen hard, which is good for us, so it only makes sense to get 16GB Now.
ONE THING: It May make a lot of sense to buy DDR4-3200 RAM like this as that would boost the Integrated Graphics on the CPU more.
IMPORTANT: Turn on XMP in the Motherboards BIOS or any fast DDR4-3000 or faster ram will not run at listed speeds, whether on Intel or AMD platforms. All modern DDR4-3000 or faster ram is so fast that most modern motherboards cannot run it at listed speeds without changing a setting in the motherboard almost always called XMP, but sometimes DOCP, depending on manufacturer. Also, ryzen may run ram slightly slower, so for example, DDR4-3000 will actually run at 2933 which is actually the max DDR4-3000 runs on ryzen.
Storage: The Western Digital Blue is a top tier SATA SSD with DRAM Cache.
Modern Systems should have a Solid State Drive, as these are faster, and next gen consoles are going to have SSDs instead of Hard drives (HDDs), meaning games will be optimized more for SSDs. Note that some cheaper budget SSDs like the A-400 or Inland do not have a DRAM Cache. The very short version, a DRAM cache helps the SSD handle lots of small writes, the kind of thing that an OS does all the time. These small writes both hurt the longevity of an SSD, and impact the performance to a degree. A dram cache mitigates those problems, meaning the SSD will last longer. Avoid DRAMless drives like inlands or a-400s for OS/boot drives.
With modern games taking up 40-100 GB a 500 GB ssd makes a lot of sense. SSDs are recommended for some games. Subnautica for example. Also, large open world games like GTA 5 or Forza will load the world faster on SSDs leading to a smoother gameplay. Note that SSDs do NOT increase Frames Per Second, but speed up loading and they smooth out things like pop-in and area transitions, and allow the worlds to load faster and larger, so having an SSD large enough for these games is a nice touch.
Some people may recommend SSDs 120 GB just for Windows, and an 1 Terabyte HDD. DON'T DO THIS, or buy a Prebuilt that does this. The reality is that in the modern era, a 120 GB SSD is not enough. More and more modern programs are being made with SSDs in mind, and common programs can easily eventually fill a small SSD. Furthermore, there are some programs that NEED to be on your boot drive, and 120GB is not big enough for them especially if your Son is coding at 10. Most gamers won't encounter these problems, but someone who codes might.
Finally, it is very easy to add an HDD, or better yet a second SSD later on. Note that I have chosen an M2 drive. M2 is a form factor, you can have SATA m2 drives and faster NVME Drives. Your computer should only have one M2 SSD. The gaming pro carbon does have 2 M2 Slots, but running 2 will disable a bunch of other slots for HDDs or SSDs.
Graphics Card AKA GPU: At this budget we don't add a GPU, since the CPU has integrated Graphics. You can always add a graphics card later. Right now NVDIA dominates the Midrange and High end graphics cards, whereas AMD has the best value and best priced low end cards. AMD cards need much more power to run also. Since AMD dominates the lower end with the best value cards, and they need higher power consumption, we need a more powerful PSU to keep upgrade options open. I'm going to talk more about GPUs below, as Monitor choice is huge.
CASE: There are so many cases out there, I went with a decent budget case with good airflow. Generally, most cases below $60 are pretty bad, the Focus G is passable. Building inside a nice case feels really good, so you may want to spend more money on something like an H500.
Power Supply: Most pre-built PC's cheap out here, and you should never cheap out. I have had a PSU explode and take down a HDD with my data on it before. I use this PSU tier list to choose my PSUs. There is probably a sale on something comparable to the ONYX, probably with a mail in rebate (lol), but the ONYX is good enough. You can read reviews if you want. Also, the ONYX has 650 watts, so if your son wants to overclock his PC parts by adding more power to them he can, and it will allow him to use every AMD PSU on market, up to Vega 64 which AMD recommends 650 watts minimum. Note that NVIDIA PSU draw way less power.
Peripherals:
Mouse and Keyboard. For now, an option is a $25 mouse and keyboard combo if your budget is really tight. These things are cheap, and with gaming use will fail eventually, but for now you could punt this option. However, if you can stretch your budget to get a good mouse and keyboard you should.
Mouse: One big problem with mice is hand size, since your son is 10 he probably has small hands, some mice won't be good for him, as he grows though, he may need a bigger mouse.
My recommendation is the Logitech G 203. The 203 is on Zy's AKA rocket Jump Ninja's Top 40 List and I believe is the cheapest small mouse available.
Keyboards: So everyone wants mechanical Keyboards now. They feel nicer, they usually have better build quality, and they are just cool. The thing is they are also louder. They multiple different switches, usually color coded for the type of switch. DO NOT GET BLUE SWITCHES. They are super loud, and will echo through the house. The problem is that blue is usually used on the cheapest mechanicals like the Redragon Kumara K552. Reds, Blacks and browns are the standard switch type for gaming.
I am now past reddit's character limit.
Continued Below.
It's $38 on Amazon...
Bro get a G203 they are literally the same price, the mouse you talk about is like 25 bucks and the G203 costs the same. https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Prodigy-Wired-Gaming-Mouse/dp/B01M26YUKO lmao
The G305 is wireless so it's not exactly equivalent.
But the G203 prodigy wired (also a better sensor than the G203 lightsync) is $35 also.
> g203
googled g203, amazon returned a result 29.50 https://www.amazon.com/G203-Prodigy-RGB-Wired-Gaming/dp/B01M26YUKO
if you want the white version its 26.95 https://www.amazon.com/G203-Prodigy-RGB-Wired-Gaming/dp/B06XNKPZLN?th=1
, and also recommended https://www.amazon.com/Programmable-Breathing-Ergonomic-Computer-Buttons/dp/B01FZ3BR5S/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_lp_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SVWWCYDNHJ1HC14ZNCJ6&dpID=41d8kORN0jL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail for 13.99
all 3 have a promotion to knock 5 dollars off if "Eligible customers get a $5 bonus when reloading $100."
Does the corsair m65 have the PMW 3310-89 sensor? Apparently Yes, its typcially 50 dollars with refurb ones on corsair site occasionally 35. So imo this holds up for price, although the corsair has a awesome design but prob not worth 25 - 30 bucks. If the software holds up. The Logitech G203 Prodigy RGB Wired Gaming Mouse – White for 26.95 is a really good deal vs the corsair m65 for 45-50$
These savings aren't just Black and White.
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Don't En Passant these deals.
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Don't Rook too long, these prices might not last.
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Deal link: Amazon
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I have literally zero experience with mouse and pc ware, didn't even know what dpi was, and have only used cheap unbranded desktop mice. Just looking for a simple mouse that can handle fast flick movement on ie low sens. Cheap Miniso mouse i borrowed can't flick or move too fast otherwise it freezes. I don't care about side buttons or inbuilt software. I prefer a simple mouse shape being something nice and round like https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Prodigy-Wired-Gaming-Mouse/dp/B01M26YUKO/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=mouse&qid=1590856340&rnid=493964&s=videogames&sr=1-2 , no special "ergonomic" shape. Checked out the amazon one i posted about but personally too expensive especially with shipping (i live in australia), so anyone know any aussie store sites i could get them from, feel free to post some here.
* **Games:** teamfortress 2, csgo
* **Hand Preference:** Right
* **Budget:** 25$ - 35$ is really cutting it tbh
* **Hand Size:** N/A* **Grip:** N/A
* **Weight:** No preference
* **Sensitivity:** 6-10 inches per 360° in games, the one i used i think had 800 dpi so maybe looking for higher like 1600 if that compensates for smoother flick response? Pretty clueless about dpi still
* **Connectivity:** Wired (wireless is fine too)
Also for a mouse just get a logitech g203.They are great starters, and you will definitely not find someone reselling a mouse with warranty. It’s on sale on amazon (link above) and bestbuy. It’s constantly on sale for 29.99
Don't En Passant these deals.
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You're correct that you definitely want go with the 1600AF. I'm not sure why, but pcpartpicker doesn't exactly have an entry for the AF version.
Any reason why you swapped out a motherboard for something $20 more expensive? That's fine if that's the motherboard you want, but if I were you, I'd get the cheaper motherboard and put the $20 towards a monitor that's at least 23".
The 1660 6GB and 590 8GB are very similar in performance. If you really want the nvidia one, go for it. But according to comparisons like this, you might be able to save $20 and get he same performance with the 590. Again, that $20 could go to something else in your build like a larger monitor or some gables. I have an AMD GPU (RX 480) and I've had no problems with it.
I put that mouse and keyboard combo on there because it's the exact mouse and keyboard combo I have, and I really like it. The mouse is one of the golden standards for entry level gaming mouse. It's currently $26.75 on amazon (pcpartpicker didn't have this accurate price) and the keyboard is $69.99. If you have another mouse and keyboard in mind, by all means, go for it. I just wanted to make sure i showed you some quality options that fit your budget.
The Logitech G203 is on sale for $20.99 on amazon, and a good mechanical keyboard for under $100 is Obinslab Anne 2 (choose your switches) if you prefer full size i’d look at Razer Blackwidow or fullsized Ducky keebs.
Call the Bishop, these prices are sinful.
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Price of a Pawn, value of a Queen.
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No comment on any of the 3 as I haven't owned any of them, and can find very little information on them. In the same price range the G102/G203 depending on region is a solid buy, and for $10 more than the A90 you can get yourself into a G305 which is the wireless brother of the G102/G203/GPro. You can also look into the 403 wired if you would rather have an ergo mouse.
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Both of the above are tried and true price to performance powerhouses.
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and the G305 below is likely one of the top 3 recommended mice on this sub reddit.
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TL;DR
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If budget is the main issue buy the 102/203 it wont let you down and is priced similar or lower to the ones you mentioned, if it isn't then I would look at better options than the 3 you mentioned and would still keep the little logitech in mind.
Just go on Amazon and buy a cheap Logitech mouse. I love my G Pro but it's more than you're looking to spend, the G203 which is similar is available in your budget.
It was my first mouse. Upgraded (to 900) due to it being too small, wired and limited to 2 buttons.
To each their own.
These are in the $20-$35 price range but Logitech makes excellent mice. I have the g303 which is similar to the g302 and I love it.
G203 Prodigy RGB Wired Gaming Mouse https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M26YUKO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SsfLAbDDYEAE3
Or
Logitech G302 Daedalus Prime MOBA Gaming Mouse https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OHJY7C2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WtfLAbCMP8HBD
> I unusually leverage the thickness of the back of the mouse with my pinky and thumbs for precise slight adjustments
I read your other comment, would you say that your grip is a fingertip grip? If so, I actually use the same grip and I personally found ergo mice really uncomfortable. I had a rival 300, and I realized a while after that I wanted the complete opposite in mouse. So I got the gpro, a small light ambi mouse that's perfect for fingertip. The g203 is practically the same thing and stupid cheap for how good it is.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M26YUKO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought it earlier this year when my old mouse died and I love it, it's actually the only RGB part of my system. It's a brand name, too.
Logitech 203 has a very good sensor and is a fairly traditional shape.
https://www.amazon.com/G203-Prodigy-Wired-Gaming-Mouse/dp/B01M26YUKO
Doesn’t have a whole lot of programmable buttons (just two on the side) but the Logitech g203 is a great mouse for the price.
G203, king of the budget tier. Good sensor, quality build, RGB lights, and also on sale for $20
https://www.amazon.com/G203-Prodigy-Wired-Gaming-Mouse/dp/B01M26YUKO/r
Oh definitely. They should have left it in since now those of us who already have programmable peripherals are at an advantage to those who don't.
I feel similarly about mice as you do, and I went with this mouse. Don't let the cost fool you, it has an excellent sensor, and the weight feels perfect for me. It's light, if that's your style. Rocket Jump Ninja has a great review of the G203 which is what made me decide to purchase it.
ok,so assuming your $40 budget goes either way, IMO the mouse is more important, so I would get the $30 logitech g203 prodigy, it's nothing special but it's sensor is great and it will last you a long time, for a keyboard you can get really anything wired, as long as you can get used to it, this amazonbasics one comes with a mouse for 15 bucks, you can get the keyboard alone but that takes 3-5 months to ship so you can throw that mouse on a laptop or something. the keyboard wont be the greatest experience, but you don't have anything better now. alternatively, if the input lag is only on the mouse and the keyboard is fine, then you could splurge on the g502 proteus spectrum, an rgb mouse (for right handed people only!) that I can proudly and unironically say is the greatest mouse of all time.
Generic Keyboard: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Wired-Keyboard-Mouse-Bundle/dp/B00B7GV802/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499468541&sr=8-3&keywords=keyboard+wired
G502 (remeber this is only for right handed people) : https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Proteus-Spectrum-Tunable-Gaming/dp/B019OB663A/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1499468912&sr=1-1&keywords=g502
I havent really proofread this so sorry for formatting
Look into the Logitech G203. It's decently priced, light weight and not very big https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G203-Prodigy-Wired-Gaming-Black-910-004842/dp/B01M26YUKO/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8
Cheap, rock solid, flawless sensor
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M26YUKO
If you want to save 10$ get the G102 from ebay instead (it's the exact same mouse just only sold in asia)
The most notable differences between the G102/G203 and the G Pro are:
G Pro has a braided cable (more friction, not as flexible), G102/G203 has a regular (and very flexible) cable
G Pro has a very stiff scroll wheel, G102/G203 is a lot lighter but still not too light
G Pro has the Avago 3366 sensor, G102/G203 has a brand new sensor made by Logitech themselves
Both have the exact same shell and RGB lights etc (though the G102 also comes in white)
Some more info:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1615853/g102-mercury-sensor-info
http://www.overclock.net/t/1616323/logitech-g102-gaming-mouse-review-by-ino
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q3kTZlPbd2Q (G102 unboxing and review)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CI3ghRD5O8 (G Pro vs G102/G203)
that mouse new for $35. recommend lowering to at most $25, since they can be had refurb for that much. https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G203-Prodigy-Wired-Gaming-Black-910-004842/dp/B01M26YUKO