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I’ve always had issues with PETG sticking to the nozzle on multiple printers.
Get the silicone socks for your hot end on Amazon. I’m on mobile, but here is the link directly from the Amazon app. [link]
I put one on my MK3 the other day and it made a huge difference. Only the very tip of the nozzle is visible, and filament won’t stick to silicone.
Late to the party I know, but one extra thing that I find helps after cleaning and ensuring the nozzle isn't leaking from the threads is to use a pinhole silicone sock-
I'm not sure what the general consensus on them is, in that I'm sure if enough leakage happens it can get loose and lead to nasty plastic blobs/print failures but I do regular maintenance including checking that mine is snug every once in a while and I've never had problems.
Besides all the other advice in this thread, which are all sound, get a silicone sock to prevent PETG from catching on the nozzle. I use this one and it has definitely helped with stringing to some extend. I almost exclusively print with PETG, and the silicone sock is a must.
The silicone sock is consumable and should be replaced every 2-3 months, depending on how often you print.
If this is happening on the first layer then your z is probably too low. PETG, esp on the smooth PEI sheet, shouldn't be squished into the sheet; raise the first layer z height by .04mm in print settings.
If you're getting globs like that after the first layer then I'd suggest the e3d silicone sock pro (the pro has just the tiny hole for the nozzle vs having the entire nozzle exposed). Trade off is that the sock blocks the fan cooling almost entirely so fwiw.
Are you keeping the filament on the spool holder on the side of the printer? Do you have a hygrometer in the room to monitor humidity? What temp is your hot end, and what temp is your bed?
I have started using dry-boxes to keep my filament in, specifically because I was working with CPE, but have yet to have similar problems since moving to this method as opposed to just leaving spools in the open. I have bowden tubes passing through these boxes which allow the filament to stay in a controlled dry environment even when in use.
And although I can not say for certain yet, a hotend sock might help to keep filament from re-attaching to the hot end and dragging over other portions of the print. Hotend sock for the V6.
Kapton tape works for ABS @110c, [email protected], and PETG at 80c. Cooling the bed releases the part mostly.
Edit: Hardest part of Kapton is getting it on to the glass smoothly. Use the Windex and credit card method. I'm sure there are videos out there. Everyone used to use Kapton. Not sure why others have forgotten it.
Get these: [link]
1) heater puts out X jules per second of heat
The problem is that when pushing a lot of plastic it drains 2 X jules per second of heat. So even going at full force the heater can't keep up and the hot end will start to cool.
So if say you're filament cant work below 180 setting the hot end at 230 instead of say 190 guves it more room to drop more in temp b4 it gets to cold to function
2) thermal sock. This thing [link]
when you're heater is trying desperately to keep the hot end above 180. These things help stop half the heat being made from being lost to the air. More of it goes into the filament. Which means less chance of hitting that dreaded 180
3) jerk control stops the printer from when it's 150mm/s in one direction to instantly going 150MM/s in the other. It does this by a fraction of a second before the turn kicking it down in speed the making the turn and kicking it back up.
Acceleration control handles the same thing but with regards to speed changes instead of direction changes
Without some control at these speeds you will find odd artifacts like what you've described(curling and all) and eventually will likely damage your x or y axis belt
Those are the normal socks and they are great! I used one forever. The pro socks just cover a bit more of the nozzle so it keeps things even neater.
It's actually a little longer than the aluminum block, so I have it tied on with a piece of wire so it wouldn't droop and get in the way. I've also used a razor to cut away the silicone close to the nozzle.
To be honest I'm not sure I'm going to keep using them. I think I like having a clearer view of the nozzle as it is working.
Yep, get a silicone sock.
This is the one I use: Genuine E3D V6 Socks Pro (Pack of... [link]
Get some 99% isopropyl alcohol. I get it from amazon.
And definitely checkout this guide on getting your bed level. It will save a lot of headaches.
Nozzle socks are good, can make life easier after a catastrophe.
As for filament, Hatchbox , eSUN, and Amazon brands have been working great for me.
> Even if I manage to get it to stick right, the booger on the nozzle starts pulling up my first layer.
Yeah, you should really get a sock for the hotend. Get the one with a tiny hole for the nozzle. Really. Order a few today from Amazon. Today. For me, it's not worth trying to print PETG without a sock.
Also, one thing I do is print a skirt (not brim) that is three lines wide (or even more for a small model), 15 mm away from the model, and only 1 layer deep. Any snot left on the nozzle from the purge gets wiped off. HOWEVER, that can leave a snot blob on the skirt, and so (a) the skirt can get pulled away from the sheet, and (b) if if not, the second layer of the skirt can fail. That's why I print the skirt 15 mm away from the model, and only one layer. If you manage to get the skirt printed this way (even with blobs and the skirt loose), and have a nozzle with a sock, chances are pretty good everything else will work. This has increased my yield with PETG prints dramatically.
Of course, you need a clean bed, etc.
It's actually pretty amazing --- I sometimes get horrible looking skirts, with portions detached from the heatbed, big blobs, etc., and then a beautiful part printed inside the skirt.
The one downside is that the single layer skirt can be really hard to remove. I use a part I printed (for another purpose) that is shaped a bit like an air hockey striker --- it's a disk with a handle essentially. I just slide the striker against the skirt to break it free.
> Sorry, I'm just feeling pretty defeated at the moment. I wish mr prusa would stop by and tune up my printer for me.
Have hope! Try my method. But if it works, you have to post your print!
> Damn thing start streaming filament out as soon as the temp hits 205C.
That's super weird. Either it's wet, or your hotend thermistor is way off.
Is this happening on a filament change? I've actually had residual Hatchbox PLA filament squirt out of the nozzle when loading PETG. But after loading everything was fine.
I got these:
Basically when the filament comes out it might curl up still, but does not melt on the silicone and just drops away. I am digging it.
Be very careful when installing it, the sock kind of goes under the wires so I poked it in with some thin tweezers being careful not the put pressure on the wires. That's why I wish I did it during assembly, then I could have left more slack in the cables.
Expect for that install is easy.
If you're able to clean it (or when you get a new one), I use one of these for my hotend and it's been great. Will help to avoid future messes.
Thanks for the suggestions. Something like this? [link]
Any tips to see if cooling too quickly is the problem?
I use these on my MK3S https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07779TP4S/
Then once you get it clean consider something like:
Though they can cause their own issues while trying to prevent others.
yes, the one made for the E3D hotend...
Something like this?
Socks. Trust us.
Genuine E3D V6 Socks Pro (Pack of... [link]
out of stock at the moment but : https://e3d-online.com/products/v6-socks-pro-pack-of-3?_pos=15&_sid=86c0170fd&_ss=r
can be bought here and are genuine: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07779TP4S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yes, silicone socks like this one are great!
+1 for the silicone sock! I am now running those and they are great! Here is what I ordered [link] I think you will be okay to heat up your hotend, the thermistor wires are definitely not going anywhere.
What material are you printing with? What settings?
If you're printing with PETG, the problem is almost certainly blobbing of material on the nozzle. PETG tends to stick to the nozzle and make blobs that eventually fall into the print.
Whether or not you are using PETG, use a silcone sock. I recommend this one, not the one with the larger hole
Edit: Fixed misspelling.
Put a silicone sock on the heat block (Genuine E3D V6 Socks Pro (Pack of 3) (V6-SOCK-PRO-3PACK) [link]).
Replaced the Y-idler pulley with a toothed one (Wangdd22 5PCS GT2 Timing Belt Idler Pulley ( 20 teeth ) 20T Aluminum Bore 5mm With Bearing For 3D Printer Accessories Belt Width 6mm [link]).
Found the issue in the end. Careful with these e3d silicon socks, be sure that it's not obstructing your fan shroud.