{"product":{"product_id":"B07NWBG938","title":"GodHand Nipper PN-125 GH-PN-125 for Plastic Models","price":"14.45","image_url":"https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/31LOlpJd1fL._SL500_.jpg","url":"https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NWBG938"},"comments":[{"body":"Godhand is usually a highly recommended brand, but can be expensive if you buy the top tier pair. I currently use these: \r\n\r\nhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NWBG938/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_0DIPEbSAMZ20T\r\n\r\nNothing too expensive, and they get the job done well. I'm pairing them with some Tamiya side cutters to help reduce nub marks and am very pleased with them. You could also buy an all in 1 kit from Amazon that will get you all you need to start, but I'd replace the nippers provided with those ones or better.","subreddit_name":"Gunpla","author":"RejectedMind"},{"body":"\u0026gt; Also, came across these Godhand Nipper PN-125 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NWBG938. Should I get this one or the Xuron Micro-Shear Flush 410?\r\n\r\nEither one will be servicable. They are not top of the line, blow your mind, nippers but they'll separate enough of the part from the sprue for you to finish off with your other blades and nippers. \r\n\r\nBuy which ever you prefer.","subreddit_name":"Gunpla","author":"holocause"},{"body":"\u0026gt;  I don’t have a ton of tools just pliers,\r\n\r\nIf you mean actual pliers then your very first priority purchase before files or sanding should just be proper side cutters so you can make a clean initial cut when removing the parts from the runners.  You want a pair if nippers that are specifically made for building models, something like this:\r\n\r\nhttps://www.amazon.com/GodHand-Nipper-PN-125-Plastic-Cutting/dp/B07NWBG938/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1XSZ6I08HGGLS\u0026amp;keywords=model+kit+nippers\u0026amp;qid=1657682290\u0026amp;sprefix=model+kit+nippers%2Caps%2C113\u0026amp;sr=8-6","subreddit_name":"Gunpla","author":"greet_the_sun"},{"body":"I'd say a X-acto knife and some nippers or something like [this](https://www.amazon.com/GodHand-Nipper-PN-125-Plastic-Cutting/dp/B07NWBG938/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=nippers\u0026amp;qid=1648058774\u0026amp;sprefix=nipper%2Caps%2C593\u0026amp;sr=8-5) , as well as probably some sandpaper. In my experience with these kits you don't really need glue as it goes together well. If you wanted to paint the kit to make it look better, most of the time on the inside of the box, or most definitely on the instructions, there is a colour guide telling what colours you need and where to put them","subreddit_name":"modelmakers","author":"Significant-Club-188"},{"body":"1. 6 mm is a good start, tape. \r\n\r\n2. Not too cheap. Xurons will work OK, Godhand makes one that retails for about the same as Tamiya's now. https://www.amazon.com/GodHand-Nipper-PN-125-Plastic-Cutting/dp/B07NWBG938/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1\u0026amp;keywords=godhand+asic\u0026amp;qid=1623576743\u0026amp;sr=8-7 (basic, but probably OK).\r\n\r\n3. OK. \r\n\r\n4. Squadron used to make sanding sticks, you might try that but don't pay more than 10 dollars for a pack of five (this is a pack with smooth through very coarse) Women's manicure/sanding sticks are widely available, buy rough to very fine grits. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=squadron+sanding+sticks\u0026amp;ref=nb_sb_noss_1. Other companies make stuff like this, just pick one that has various grits from smooth to rough. Sanding sponges are literally a spongy/softer sanding tool sanding surface mounted on a soft sponge-like block, so it can conform with curves.\r\n\r\n5. No, not in particular. I have an inherited pair from somewhere, I think No. 1 size. A women's makeup section at a pharmacy might carry merely OK ones. I just didn't think much of Excel's cheap but expensive hand tools. They should be OK - so maybe just get them.","subreddit_name":"modelmakers","author":"windupmonkeys"},{"body":"You want micro cutters/nippers like these for cutting parts off the sprue: [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NWBG938/ref=ppx\\_yo\\_dt\\_b\\_search\\_asin\\_title?ie=UTF8\u0026amp;psc=1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NWBG938/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8\u0026amp;psc=1)\r\n\r\nThe saws are more for customizing/modifying.","subreddit_name":"ModelCars","author":"merc4815162342"},{"body":"You can get a 5 star Godhand nippers on Amazon for 15 bucks:  \r\n\r\n\r\nhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NWBG938?psc=1\u0026amp;ref=ppx\\_yo2ov\\_dt\\_b\\_product\\_details","subreddit_name":"ageofsigmar","author":"Oddwunn"},{"body":"GodHand has some cheap nippers as well, this is the one I've been using and it's done good by me:\r\n\r\nhttps://www.amazon.com/GodHand-Nipper-PN-125-Plastic-Cutting/dp/B07NWBG938","subreddit_name":"Warhammer40k","author":"Dis0bedience"},{"body":"My first pair of nippers are too blunt to really make any difference now, so I'm looking into another pair. Are [these](https://www.amazon.com/GodHand-Nipper-PN-125-Plastic-Cutting/dp/B07NWBG938/?_encoding=UTF8\u0026amp;pd_rd_w=V7oBN\u0026amp;pf_rd_p=5fe95cd4-8512-42fa-bf21-63d83b898785\u0026amp;pf_rd_r=QW3P4YG58NRYG6Y3TQP7\u0026amp;pd_rd_r=f042531e-c5e0-4b31-be16-c45246c38124\u0026amp;pd_rd_wg=ZB4gJ\u0026amp;ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m) good enough? Or is it worth spending the extra to get something more like [these](https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-TAM74035-Sharp-Pointed-Cutter/dp/B0131XZ92G/?_encoding=UTF8\u0026amp;pd_rd_w=V7oBN\u0026amp;pf_rd_p=5fe95cd4-8512-42fa-bf21-63d83b898785\u0026amp;pf_rd_r=QW3P4YG58NRYG6Y3TQP7\u0026amp;pd_rd_r=f042531e-c5e0-4b31-be16-c45246c38124\u0026amp;pd_rd_wg=ZB4gJ\u0026amp;ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m)? What do you suggest? Thanks","subreddit_name":"Gunpla","author":"EpsilonX"},{"body":"Yessir, these right here are probably the best nippers on the market\r\nGodHand Nipper PN-125 GH-PN-125 for Plastic Models https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NWBG938/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_CJRQ03VWXBV7YC837XBM","subreddit_name":"evangelion","author":"Memetastrophe"},{"body":"Couple things\r\n\r\n\u0026amp;#x200B;\r\n\r\nMake sure you get yourself (links are examples you can buy whatever brand you want)\r\n\r\n1-[Hobby Snips](https://www.amazon.com/GodHand-Nipper-PN-125-Plastic-Cutting/dp/B07NWBG938/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1\u0026amp;geniuslink=true\u0026amp;keywords=dspieae+3.0\u0026amp;qid=1634664357\u0026amp;sr=8-6)\\-This will allow you to clip your pieces from the sprue with minimal \"flash\" left over that needs to be cleaned off\r\n\r\n2-[Hobby Knife](https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Cutting-Carving-Scrapbooking-Creation/dp/B0899VKWMB/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1\u0026amp;keywords=hobby+knife\u0026amp;qid=1634664397\u0026amp;sr=8-5)\\-This will allow you to clean your pieces off of mold lines (sharp lines left from the casting process that are not meant to be on the model) and any residual flash from the sprue contact points. GW sprues tend to have the sprue contact points on parts of the miniature that will be hidden or in contact with other pieces on the finished model, make sure you clear these points fully once you seperate the piece from the sprue or they could prevent you from getting a \"clean\" combination of pieces. (For example if you leave sprue flash on an arm ball joint it wont cleanly combine with the torso shoulder socket) \r\n\r\n3-[Plastic Glue](https://www.amazon.com/Games-Workshop-Citadel-Plastic-Glue/dp/B004CDA3GC/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1\u0026amp;keywords=plastic+glue\u0026amp;qid=1634664453\u0026amp;sr=8-3)\\-Plastic glue or plastic cement welds the pieces together by melting the plastic as opposed to creating an adhesive bond, be sure to get one with a pipette applicator in order to apply glue where needed on your smaller pieces. The reason you want plastic glue over superglue is plastic glue is less sticky and you typically have more control, super glue also creates a thicker layer in between pieces in order to create a bond. Also super glue is super easy to glue pieces to your fingers. Plastic glue does require 10-15 seconds of pressure in order to create a good bond. \r\n\r\n4-[Super Glue](https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Super-Glue-Gram-Clear/dp/B00OAAUAX8/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1\u0026amp;keywords=super%2Bglue\u0026amp;qid=1634664623\u0026amp;sr=8-3\u0026amp;th=1)\\-Super Glue is better to glue your models to their bases than plastic glue, plastic glue ***can*** work but I've found super glue to better for this specific task. Super glue also tends to work better for vehicles where the issues discussed above aren't as big of a deal. I prefer the \"gel type\" super glue as opposed to free flowing super glue. \r\n\r\nThat should be enough to get your minis assembled. When it comes to painting there are 3 basic rules to know.\r\n\r\n1.Thin your paints, dear god thin your paints with water (or a medium if you wanna get fancy) on a pallet before applying to your mini. You want a milk like consistency when painting and its perfectly fine to have to apply 2 thin coats. \r\n\r\n2.When choosing your paints make sure you get paints specifically formulated for minis, you don't have to buy GW if their price turns you off but army painter and vallejo are comparable alternatives. Don't just head down to the local craft store and buy whatever bulk acrylics they have. \r\n\r\n3.When choosing your paint primer be extremely careful which one you get. There are primers such [as this one](https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249058-6-PK-Painters-Primer/dp/B017X6HGE6/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1\u0026amp;keywords=2x%2Bcoverage%2Bprimer\u0026amp;qid=1634664987\u0026amp;sr=8-1\u0026amp;th=1) that are designed to expand and provide as much coverage as possible. Which will wash out the details of your minis. Some people swear by cheap generic brands, others will only use GW primers, just make sure you don't pick up one of the expanding or grit primers. \r\n\r\nIf you opt to use the GW contrast line those paints work like a \"stain\" or an \"ink\". So you'll want an off-white base layer to stain to whatever contrast paint color you want. Contrast paints are a completely different type of paint than a standard acrylic, so make sure you read the bottle and label for whatever paint you end up buying. Contrast can be quicker and \"easier\" for newer hobbyists but it comes with its own headaches.","subreddit_name":"Warhammer40k","author":"Zimmonda"},{"body":"GodHand Nipper PN-125 GH-PN-125 for Plastic Models https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NWBG938/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_6Y56XKW5YGF9VVKC58Y7?_encoding=UTF8\u0026amp;psc=1","subreddit_name":"Gunpla","author":"Slow_Monk1376"},{"body":"Local store has [GodHand PN-125 nippers](https://www.amazon.ca/GodHand-Nipper-PN-125-GH-PN-125-Plastic/dp/B07NWBG938) for sale for $10. Is it much of an improvement over the [Tamiya Modeler's Side Cutters](https://www.sunwardhobbies.ca/modelers-side-cutter-grey-gray-by-tamiya-74093/) I'm using right now? I've been using the Tamiya for about 2 years about (20 HGs and 4 MGs) and getting the sense they might be getting a bit dull. I also have a pair of Xuron 410's as a backup pair which is brand new.","subreddit_name":"Gunpla","author":"PPGN_DM_Exia"},{"body":"I bought these a little while ago and they are great.\r\nGodHand Nipper PN-125 GH-PN-125 for Plastic Models https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07NWBG938/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_fabc_7kkUFbBFVWJ92?_encoding=UTF8\u0026amp;psc=1","subreddit_name":"metalearth","author":"BrotherAL1"},{"body":"I'm talking about the Tamiya 123. Are we talking about the same Godhand model? There are a few from what I can see. \r\n\r\nI'm talking about this [Godhand model](https://www.amazon.ca/GodHand-Nipper-PN-125-GH-PN-125-Plastic/dp/B07NWBG938/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1\u0026amp;keywords=godhand\u0026amp;qid=1602612625\u0026amp;sr=8-6).\r\n\r\nAnd this [Tamiya Model](https://www.amazon.ca/Tamiya-Sharp-Pointed-Cutter-No-123/dp/B010PG73J4/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1\u0026amp;keywords=tamiya+123\u0026amp;qid=1602612721\u0026amp;sr=8-8).","subreddit_name":"Gunpla","author":"Butttoucher2point0"}]}