What is Reddit's opinion of Guerrilla Painter Plein Air 10oz Stainless Steel Brush Washer with Removable Screen Insert?

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> I am using turpentine(switching to citrus thinner soon), and I have been cleaning my brushes in a jar I poured it in like I would clean other brushes in a jar of water. It's a murky colour now, can I reuse it, or did I screw up by putting it all into one jar and not portioning it out?(same question for citrus thinner)

https://www.amazon.com/Guerrilla-Painter-Brush-Washer-10-Ounce/dp/B00TV38PN6

Pigment settles with this sort of design. So you can swish it and keep reusing it.

I have never used Citrus thinner, it seems to be not super common these days for whatever reason. Would you mind doing a bit of a review on this sub after a few days use?

> I am using linseed oil and didn't portion it out as well, which means there's now paint in the oil. Is there a way to remove the paint from the oil? It's floating about inside and I'd prefer to not have to buy all new oil.

Hmmmm. I would suggest getting an eyedropper and vacuuming up your paint. Otherwise.... condolences? Certainly for any work you're doing that you want to be nice, I'd suggest having some clean oil

I have eyedropper bottles for my oils - this lets me carefully measure out how much I want.

> How do I actually clean brushes? I've found so many conflicting tutorials that I'm getting frustrated, because now I don't know what to do. I am currently brushing them along the bottom of the jar with the turpentine in them, wiping them out on a rag, and repeating until no paint comes off of them. However, I can still see some paint on the brush, are they ok? Am I not doing enough?

There are a few different methods, as you've learned. I clean using Gamsol (less toxic and less flammable than turpentine), using the brush washer I linked above, during a painting session, then after a few days, I will do a Master's Soap clean.

So it looks like this:

1. If large globs of paint on brush - wipe off on pallet
2. Wipe a bit on paper towel/newspaper
3. Rinse in brush washer, then knock the gamsol back in.
4. Dry gamsol off by wiping on newspaper or drop cloth.
5. Reuse brush.

Then, after a few painting sessions - usually I cluster sessions of painting , i.e., over a weekend - I'll do a Master's Soap rinse and ensure I get all the pigment out, carefully. Don't abuse the brush!

> How do you prevent brushes from fraying and preserve them for longer? I usually just wash my brushes with mineral spirits and then soap and water, am I missing a step? I've heard about conditioner but has anyone done this before?

I clean off my brushes with gamsol. After a weekend of painting I'll use Master's Brush soap, then carefully shape the brushes with the soap still in them as a conditioner.

> I've been told that I shouldn't toss the mineral spirits down the drain and used it to clean my brushes? Is it still reusable after this?

Gamsol is. If you use something like a silicoil or other brush washer with a grate over the pigments, you will find that the pigments all settle down, leaving a clear Gamsol. I use https://www.amazon.com/Guerrilla-Painter-Brush-Washer-10-Ounce/dp/B00TV38PN6

> Alternative or different brand for Cremnitz white? I've been told to use Cremnitz white as a mixing white because it's warmer and doesn't kill the colour like Titanium white does but it can be quite expensive. I usually use W&N cause it's the cheapest from the art store, $11, as opposed to OH which cost like $60 for a 40mL tube but the W&N are always out of stock.

Depends on where you live. EU has very different regs from US, for instance. The Wife has banned lead paint from the house, so I haven't done any experimentation with lead whites... Anyway. Old Holland is always the most expensive in the US, period, end of story. (sigh).

I'd suggest you look at Utrecht - http://www.utrechtart.com/Utrecht-Artists--Oil-Paint--Flake-White-MP-02122-045-i1000157.utrecht - it's inexpensive and decent paint. If you really want to get into lead paints, I'd suggest looking at Rublev, they do a variety of lead paints - red, yellow, and the whites. I would also take some time to study the toxicology and management of lead paint for health. Williamsburg and M. Harding are also nice paint as well.

If you just want a non-titanium, I'd suggest looking at the Strontium White Holbein sells as "Ceramic White". It's less chalky than titanium, but much more powerful than Zinc. Blick sells that as well.

> I've been painting again for a few months now and I still don't know what I'm doing or if I'm doing it right, so any tips are welcomed. Thanks!

Keep on learning, always new things to learn.