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with an average of
What kind of knives are you sharpening, how much are you looking to spend, and how much of an effort do you ultimately plan to invest? A whetstone lasts a long time so it usually makes more sense to invest in something a bit nicer rather than to get a cheap stone and end up with it collecting dust.
I usually recommend the Shapton Pros on Amazon as they are great stones for very cheap: [link]
If you have amazon prime, the shapton pro 1000 is currently on UK amazon for a good price with next day delivery, amazon.co.uk/Kuromaku-Ceramic-Whetstone-Medium-Shapton/dp/B001TPFT0G/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=shapton+1000&qid=1595373963&sr=8-2
Hey. I wouldn’t recommend buying a set like that for a few reasons. 1. In a set, generally the items are of inferior quality, 2. While it may seem more “future-proof” to buy a set with multiple grits, it actually will serve you worse than buying a good stone now then getting a good higher grit stone later, and 3. For that money you could get this stone.
The stone I recommended is a very commonly recommended stone. It’s recommended so much because it is a medium grit stone of very good quality, especially for the price. With this stone you will have plenty to practice your technique, and you will be able to get your kitchen knives as sharp as you could ever want them. Having and using higher grit stones before you’ve perfected your technique will not make a noticeable difference in your sharpness.
Hey. You’re spot on with the Shapton Pro #1000. It is a very commonly recommended stone, and you can start with it to really practice your technique. It’s good quality for the price, and it’s a splash and go stone so you don’t have to soak for long periods of time. You seem to be on the right path though; check the wiki for more information and a full beginners guide!
I'd only recommend a japanese knife if you wanted to work on your knife skills and learn to push cut or pull cut. Up to you though, its not necessary, but japanese knives overall are typically much thinner behind the edge, and usually cut significantly nicer, effortlessly. The steel is typically harder, requires sharpening less often, but is more fragile in trade. Its a fun experience if you've only had thicker german knives.
$400 will get you essentially every western style knife out there. No you don't need a different knife for veg and meat, one good chef knife will cover both. You should use a different knife to break down chicken though, or anything with bone to not risk the nicer chef knife.
The king 1000 is a solid stone, I'd probably push you toward the shapton pro([link]). Its more expensive, but it doesn't require soaking, is significantly harder, and will last longer without needing to be flattened.
Hard to tell the quality of the honing rod, but the pics don't look good. Maybe get a cheap one from zwilling or mercer or something.
What's your expectation here? If $30 is a lot for a knife you're going to be surprised when you find that even the cheapest honing rod with decent reviews on amazon is going to be around $10, or 1/3rd the price of your knife. So now your $30 knife is $40.
Again with this "a hone is needed". It isn't. At no point did I even remotely imply a hone was necessary. What IS important is that you have some way to maintain your knife or the expectation that you will eventually be paying someone else to maintain it for you, less you end up with a big butter knife which would waste your entire investment anyways.
Ideally you would be buying a decent whetstone and learning how to use, something in the $30-40 range like this one. But you do you.
if it isn't too late i'd advise returning them, i wouldn't be surprised if the reviews were paid/botted. try to stick with the proven stuff on the subreddit
i'm not sure what state you are in the EU, but amazon.de sells shapton pros/ha no kuromakus for 45 euros , its one of the favorite 1k stones around here. you can probably find it for a similar price on whatever amazon stores the closest to you
It's like 42 for a single 1k [link] there are 2 formulations this one is Japanese, the American formulations are usually around 75 each, I guess since the climate here is dryer in a lot of places they had problems with the stones cracking in the USA, I'm in Tennessee and our climate is pretty similar to Japan and I take care not to like leave them in a hot car or anything so I have not had a problem with the Japanese formulation. If you are sharpening chisels you will have to flatten your king stone often while you are sharpening because it will want to cup quickly. With kitchen knives you don't really care so much because you can more easily use the whole stone and kind of flatten the high spots with the knife as you go. But for a chisel, I would care more about having a hard stone, so you don't have to worry about cupping as much but with any stone and a chisel you will have to flatten them regularly. Also the shapton stone is a "splash and go" stone so you just get it wet and it's ready, the king stones are soakers, so you need to soak them for 20 Min or so prior to use. But they aren't "perma soak" so if you soak them too long it makes the binder weak and they get softer. I have heard good things about the cerax stones but really for your budget I would be looking at wet dry sandpaper mounted on glass plates, they will stay flat and are cheap and replaceable. I will say though that the king 6k is nice and hard, it will last way longer than the king 1k
That Skerper Pro line does appear to be Naniwa Traditionals -- maybe with a Superstone in the 5k spot.
This matter of the Shapton Pro 1k being often recommended, but being relatively overpriced in UK has come up before -- And you might check how much the stone would cost you if ordered from Japanese Amazon, once the admittedly pricey shipping and other charges are added up at checkout.
A previous OP said it was a net savings of £15, or thereabouts, iirc.
If you haven't gotten it sharpened since you bought it, that might be a greater benefit than a new knife. All knives, even expensive knives, need to be sharpened after some time. You can probably get it sharpened at the butcher counter at your grocery store.
If you want to sharpen it yourself, you can get a whetstone off Amazon for $20-30. King makes good ones. I have a 1000/3000 stone, but it's pretty small and the quality is not great. I've been trying to justify buying this guy.
For a pull through sharpener it doesn't matter, they're all equally bad, but will suffice for most people (at least get one with two different grits, coarse and fine).
If you want to get in to whetstones, which you should if you're serious about cooking, this is the best one [link]
It may be more expensive than your knife but it should last a lifetime.
>I'm looking to buy Naniwa Professional 800 and 3000 grit stones so I can practice sharpening with my current knife before I get something really nice.
I'd recommend just getting a Sharpton Ha No Kuromaku Ceramic Whetstone 1000 grit. That's really all you need for whetstones.
> should I buy a good leather strop or does it not matter? I heard you can strop on other materials.
No, I bought a piece of scrap leather at my local store for 30 cents and it works great. You can also use jeans or newspaper. Just remember that you don't need to use the strop a lot to remove the burrs.
Yep, r/chefknives has all the answers. I picked up this Shapton 1k from Amazon right before Christmas.
Edit: I saw your comment about massive corporations, but I was striking out with finding anything sold by independent businesses in my area.
Really good question! I own a 3-stage pull-through sharpener, pretty similar. These things take a lot of flak from knife snobs, but they're not bad. As a general rule, the more stages you add onto a pull-through sharpener, the more refined of an edge you're going to get out of it (similar to adding whetstones). So, multi-stage is good in that respect.
That said, I would say that in my experience pull-through sharpeners usually get you an edge that's somewhere between "okay" and "pretty good". It'll be good enough to get a line cook through a dinner service, certainly. It won't be "OMG sharp". So if you just want to cook efficiently, with a piece of gear with very a very minimal learning curve, pull-through sharpeners are a good choice. They're used in commercial kitchens across the US.
If you're a serious knife hobbyist, or you just want that "holy crap that was a satisfying cut" experience, then you'll need something that has more versatility, and ultimately a higher learning curve.
Final thoughts: Some pull-through sharpeners are remarkably expensive. What you're really paying for is mostly convenience, and partially something that's going to look nice sitting on your kitchen counter. Whetstone sharpening can be very affordable. A Shapton 1000-grit stone ([link]) can be purchased for around $35-50, and with practice you can certainly get great (better than factory) results from it.
Oh hmmm, turns out I actually spent about $40 for mine, sorry.
I got this one [link]
When I was looking into a stone and doing research it seemed that a lot of the 2-in-1 stones were much poorer quality and tended to crack/break, so I decided not to get one of those.
I would like to get a finer grit stone if I had more money but this one gets it plenty sharp. Not sharp enough to cut through paper like other people's posts I have seen but definitely sharp enough to slice through whatever I'm making much more easily.
When you say buy from Japan and wait 3 weeks... Is that from a third party on UK Amazon?
Ordering from Japanese Amazon is always ludicrously fast for me. Shipping to Canada is through DHL and rather expensive, but it sure is fast; faster than free shipping from Canadian Amazon, in fact. I ordered something yesterday; it shipped just now; and I suspect I might have it before the week ends...
You might check how much this would run you:
Ha No Kuromaku Ceramic Whetstone Medium Grit #1000
Anyhow, the stone you'd want would arguably be a Shapton M5, but I'd personally never trade away that much abrasive for piddling savings.
Otherwise, I really quite like King stones, even though they are rather dissimilar from Shaptons. Mind you, King stones should be a substantial savings over Shaptons...
The separation of brands in not unheard of here, after all it's the same story with Ha No Kuromaku and Shapton.
What's surprising is that they sell the international version alongside the domestic one, for twice the price, and succeed in that: the reviews from Amazon US are shown on Amazon JP, after all. Cheeky bastards.
Yes, exactly. Rods are not the best choice for exactly the same reasons.
For the ikon I'd start with the shapton kuromaku 1000 grit. [link]
No clue where to get that in SAfrica.
Surely there's a South African vendor for similar products.
Why is there a premium on whetstones? Is there a local industry manufacturing them in SA?
vg10 while high hrc won't really benefit as much with a high grit stone as say carbon or AEBL. Could hold off on the 5k purchase until you pickup your new carbon knife or see a good deal on one
that being said, technique is almost everything when it comes to sharpening. Even if you had the most pricy jnat stones, it all comes down to technique. The shaptons will feel very different than the king stone you currently own.
shapton 1k amazon link
Is it this stone? Is it a good idea to get a thin stone when I've never sharpened before and I'll probably ruin the stone. That way I have smaller margin for errors?
I bought a Shapton Kuromaku 1000, my first sharpening stone [link]. It just arrived today, I'm excited to try it out!
I'm planning to use it as a splash and go stone to sharpen my Wusthof Classic 8". This is my first endeavor into sharpening and I'm reading up on as much as I can and watching videos from this sub and r/chefknives to learn the technique.
You mentioned the need for a flattener for this stone in your comment, can you recommend a budget one? Also, will the stone be flat enough out of the box to sharpen my Wusthof at least once? I was hoping to do so tonight.
Now that I think about it, you probably won't want a laser for your first good knife. They are great, but not at everything. They are so thin that they aren't great for breaking down bigger /harder things like squash. The uraku will be a solid all-rounder. And with your left over $50 you can get this to keep it sharp.
Okay. So either way I would suggest this Shapton for a whetsone to start off with and then go from there. If you can stretch your budget slightly or maybe try something stainless you can open up a few other options as well whether you go for a nakiri or a gyuto.
For the most part what makes stones different are the binders. Virtually all synthetic stones use SiC or Al203 as the abrasive, unless of course it's a diamond plate. If you only want one stone and your knives are already relatively sharp, you probably want something in the 800-1200 range. I take my camp knives to around 1k and my "fun" knives to anything from 5k-12k (cause why not).
Personally I like the Shapton Pros and the 1k can be found on Amazon for around $35: [link]
Ideally you want something 400 and below for major repair, a 1k for regular sharpening, and optionally a finishing stone 3k
shapton #1000 - [link]
They cut well and are splash and go so soaking/oversoaking isn't an issue. I don't think their hardness is an issue for beginners as you don't know any better. a King #1000 is soft and I wouldn't say its easier to sharpen on.
Amazon reviews seem to say this is exactly the same as the more expensive Shapton stones. Made by the same company, same materials, everything, just half the price for the japanese market. WW video on youtube suggested something in the 1000 range and the 5000 range. Thinking of asking for those two as christmas gifts. Anyone have experience with these specific ceramic stones?
For anyone looking to get into whetstone sharpening, just know that it's really not all that difficult.
A good starter stone is the Shapton Pro 1k which can be found on Amazon for just $36. It's a splash and go stone that doesn't require any soaking and it's a hard stone that doesn't dish fast.
While the 1k is a good starting point for any knife that isn't already a butter knife, the 320 grit would be necessary for turning that butter knife into a real knife again.
If you want something with more polish and a higher level of sharpness, the 5000 grit will offer a good deal of edge refinement without going too crazy. However, this is pretty much pointless for any knife under 60 HRC (a Wusthof is at 58 HRC which is pushing it) since that softer steel won't hold a 5k edge for very long at all.
These Kuromaku stones are real Shapton Pros, but those manufactured for the Japanese market. The versions for the western market have differently labeling printed on the stones, but are otherwise identical. Prices for Kuromaku Shaptons vary widly on Amazon so it's worth waiting for a deal, and only a few are actually available at these lower prices.
An even cheaper option is the King 1k/6k combination stone which is viable, but not something I usually recommend. It dishes fast, the 6k side is overkill for most home cooks, and from what I've heard using the stone isn't a particularly good experience.
If you would like to learn about sharpening in general, or how to do it, start here: [link]
And if you're looking for a knife or how to care for it, consider stopping by /r/chefknives!
Shapton 1k pro
under Ha No Kuromaku on amazon
I found links in your comment that were not hyperlinked:
I did the honors for you.
^delete ^| ^information ^| ^<3
I have the Shapton Pros 1k, 2k, 5k, 8k, and 12k.
These stones are very fast cutters but give very little feedback. I like them a lot for my double bevel knives as they are quick, easy, and don't require a lot of pressure or passes. They are not the best options out there but they are the easiest I've tried. I've read that the Naniwas are definitely better but they are also twice the cost and more if you go for the Kuromakus.
Of the stones I have the 5k is the best. This is also the most versatile grit as its appropriate for both protein and vegetable oriented knives. It does overlap with your King but I expect it's significantly better.
The 2k is also pretty good and I prefer it over the 1k. For lower grits I would consider getting some that is not a Shapton.
The 1k does all right but I much prefer a softer stone if I'm going to do the kind of work one does on a 1k. It's hard to feel when things are going right or wrong with this stone, and the others in the line. But it matters more with a low grit. Usually I just use the 2k instead.
The 8k is pretty good. Again I like it a lot for double bevel knives but not single bevel. I can get a comfortable shave after just the 8k without a strop if I'm having a good day. Alternatively I also use my Kitayama 8k which does an all around better job but the Shapton is just so much easier to use and much more forgiving of mistakes.
The Kuromakus on Amazon US are grey market stones. While they are much cheaper and certainly legal for you to buy, they were probably not legally brought into the US. Someone likely got them wholesale in Japan and shipped them to the US without paying tariffs. Other people have done worse things but its still up to you if you want to buy these. They are the same Shaptons you can get anywhere else. Here are the Kuromakus on Amazon UK.
I know you said you wanted a Japanese handle but I think you should consider a Misono Molybdenum. It was my first knife and I’m honestly still happy with it.
Its inexpensive, tough, takes a pretty good edge, and has good fit and finish. It won’t take as keen of an edge as the knives you mentioned.. but its easy to sharpen which is great if you’re learning how to.
I own a Ginga too and its pretty amazing but I wouldn’t want it as my sole knife. It’s a really thin blade so its a bit more fragile than the Misono. I personally would rather have a tougher knife if I only had one.
I also really like the Hi-soft cutting board. It’s easy on knives, has some weight and theres very little maintenance. Just don’t put it in the dishwasher.
Misono Molybdenum 240mm ~ $112.50
(Korin is having a 15% off sale on knives right now)
Hi-Soft Cutting Board ~ $48.00
(From Korin. Combine the shipping with the Misono)
Bester 1200 ~ $55
(Leaves a good edge alone)
Shapton Pro 1000 ~ $35
(I like the Bester better but this is a really good deal on Amazon Prime)
Suehiro Rika 5000 ~ $50
(Optional.. nice to have tho)
Atoma 400 ~$60
(For stone flattening. You can buy a cheaper plate if you want)
I know the link says generic.. but this is an Atoma 400. Just make sure you buy the one that is Amazon Prime
I wouldn’t spend all $500 at once. You can always buy a nicer knife later.. and having two knives is convenient anyway.
I think both that knife and that stone is a fine choice; fairly middle of the road so to speak.
I haven't had the chance to try the Yamashin but I expect it will get the job done. Probably won't be the thinnest blade, or have the best grinds, but it should be good for a beginner sharpener. The White #1 steel is not a very common choice and it's a bit harder than White #2 but still not quite as hard as Blue #2 (or as prone to chipping, not that Blue #2 is very chippy at all).
If you watch the prices on Amazon, you might be able to get a Shapton Pro 1k and 5k for around $60-70 total. At the moment, the 5k is quite a bit more than it use to be.
Basically, assuming proper heat treat, carbon steels will have finer grain size resulting in the ability to take a sharper, more acute edge. Stainless steels typically have larger yet harder grains so they can't take as smooth an edge as some carbon steels and may be more difficult to sharpen on some stones. Generally stainless steels don't need to be sharpened much past 1000 grit though I've gone up to 3000 and noticed some improvement. The Shapton pro 1000 is designed for stainless knives and is available on Amazon. to give you an idea about stone budget [link]
An interesting read on Shapton stones I found on this forum. [link]
Hammer or damascus finish is mostly (in my opinion) purely a matter of taste in appearance. I'd be more concerned with steel and blade geometry especially if you are looking into a Japanese knife. They can be quite thin and brittle compared to your Wusthoff.
Get a shapton pro 1k, it's a splash stone and that's all you need ATM.
$60 can on Amazon so you still have $20 left for naniwa nagura
Ha No Kuromaku Ceramic Whetstone Medium Grit #1000 by Shapton [link]
Stay away from honing rods on harder steels like found in most Japanese knives. Chipping can occur. Look for a stone. I like the Kuromaku 1000 grit by shapton from Amazon. [link]
this one is on the thin and light side. More of a finesse type of tool [link]
A couple of questions you might ask yourself... what type of cutting strokes do you use most? Rock chopping (tip stays on the board), vs push cutting? Do you use the tip a lot? These things can effect which blade profile you will like more. If you decide to shop with JKI call or email Jon and he'll help you find knives that fit your style.
Start with that, get good at it, then look at a higher grit one. I do 1K -> 5K. Also look into getting a strop to maintain the edge between stone sessions.
I am not in Europe, so please forgive if the shop is bad, but if he doesn't have a SHAPTON Pro 1000 grit stone yet
I'd be surprised if it's not available on Amazon Italy as well.
Edit, it is [link]
The sub wiki recommended stone.
The Kramer stones are just re-branded Shapton Glass Stones. Much cheaper, and in my opinion somewhat better, are the Shapton Pros. You can get them for cheap off of Amazon:
A 320, 1000, 5000 might be a bit overkill but you should be able to get all three for about $90-$120.
Yeah santoku and nakiri overlap even more than gyuto and either santoku/nakiri. If you are in the UK and looking on Amazon... yeah you're pretty much screwed. Maybe put the gift card towards a whetstone to sharpen the knife you have? Shapton Kuromaku 1000 is the usual recommendation https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kuromaku-Ceramic-Whetstone-Medium-Shapton/dp/B001TPFT0G
So with sharpening stones they have a grit number, the larger the number, the finer the stone. A finer stone leaves a more polished edge, but they remove metal slower than a courser stone.
so the usual grit you buy first is 1000. It is a good general maintenance stone, you could complement it with finer and courser stones, but you can get by with just one
This shapton gets recommended a lot under the
"buy nice or buy twice" mentality. Its $40 but it is a good stone. King has this 1000/6000 stone for $27. You get a finer grit and a lower price, but a lot of people like to upgrade away from this stone down the road.
Its on amazon under a different name, https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001TPFT0G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
its a great all around stone and is splash n go.
Basically what I did. Here's what I ordered
[link] it's this one- it's really recommended
PM steels are stainless
Ha No Kuromaku Ceramic Whetstone Medium Grit #1000 [link]
I bought the stone this stone.
Would I use water with this one?
it's the orange one, there are no counterfeit shaptons
Don't buy any of those. I own the Sharp Pebble 400/1000 and it's crap. Get a Shapton Ha No Kuromaku 1000 Ha No Kuromaku Ceramic Whetstone Medium Grit #1000 - Sharpening Stones - Amazon.com or a King 1000 Amazon.com: KING K1000#1000 WHET STONE, One Size, Brown: Kitchen & Dining
Steel hardness doesn't determine what grit whetstone to use. A medium grit whetstone (800 - 2000 grit) is all you need for kitchen use. The Shapton is the usual recommendation, it's harder so you won't have to flatten it often and it's a splash and go (doesn't require soaking). The King cuts a bit slower, requires soaking, and will dish faster. You will have to flatten any whetstone eventually, you can use coarse sandpaper (120 grit or so) on a flat surface like a tile, glass pane, or your counter if you're sure it's flat. Check out the Getting Started for more information on sharpening, including some links to tutorials on YouTube, I'd recommend Jon Broida and Peter Nowlan, both have tutorial series on YouTube.
If you must have a "nice" bread knife, [link] but I would just get a VNox and replace them as they get dull
You got a whetstone? If not [link]
yes that is fine, if you dont want the wood stand, the regular box functions as a stand as well
Shapton stone, learn to sharpen freehand. Grab a 320 to get that one back in shape, then a 1000 to sharpen it up. You can go higher if you want, but it's really not necessary.
There are skills I need to work on, but I've never done the crazy knife damaging things you mentioned.
Ha No Kuromaku Ceramic Whetstone Medium Grit #1000
Im nervous about sharpening too.
Not so much about sharpening as, making sure it has that same consistency through the blade. make sense?
I guess I'll have to get over that too.
Thats been another one of those "Im going to fk it up! nooo" kind of things also.
This knife didn't feel insanely out of the box sharp.
Someone told me on some other forums, that it is common for some makers to leave the stone at a 70% sharpness, to leave it up to the customer since everyone likes it different.
Any truth in that?
I put a link to the gamut of shaptons (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TPFT0G/) on Amazon in my post which is what I would personally get knowing what I know now. Start with a 1000. As the other poster recommended, the king 1000 grit stone is a good cheaper option too.
A search for king kds, or king kw65 will also yield decent dual sided ones that'll be fine until you get real serious.
The first whetstone I got was a cheap one around $20 on Amazon, 1000/3000 grit dual sided. It worked just fine, but wasn't anything special. If I was really careful with it I could even get a bit of a mirror finish on the 3000 grit. It was sold under the name "Taidea". Works well and I don't mind using it to this day on cheaper knives or knives that only need a rough edge to get going. It feels sticky and doesn't cut as fast, and it's hard to clean the buildup out of it, but it can definitely work well enough.
That being said, it's a lottery. The lower grits might be usable more often, but I bought another stone in the same price range that's absolutely terrible, and it's rated as being 3000/8000 grit. It cuts more like a really bad 400 grit, or worse. Maybe even works like a flat rock, if not worse.
I eventually upgraded to a set of barely used, like new Nortons and it's a huge difference. Cut faster, they just feel super smooth the whole time, and you can really get a mirror finish and an edge that, when you use it, feels like you're cutting through air. If I had to pick nowadays, I would just save and dish out a few extra bucks to get a vetted general stone, like a King KDS, or, I'd personally start with a 1000-1500 grit Shapton pro and save up more to get at least one more stone (5000 grit first maybe, 8000 grit after, 2000 to use in between or on knives you want with a polish but not too slippery) later. They aren't that expensive for how much better they are, all things considered. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TPFT0G/
So, in short, a cheap stone might be pretty good, or it might be very bad. I'd recommend just getting a good brand to remove the chance you end up spending the same amount of money or more in the long run to get something good. I got lucky with my first stone, but I think that's rare so far.
Currently 20% off so it's a steal right now, good starting point to learn knife maintenance so you can get that $300 knife down the line and be comfortable maintaining it, spend any leftover budget on a whetstone and maybe a blade guard
This is in the wiki and many guides on this site, but the mods often recommend [link] as the best bang for your buck stone, aka SHAPTON 1000
do not get sharp pebble or i will slap you with an eel.
there's your shapton pro (its japanese name is ha no kuromaku, or knife stone ceramic).
Those products are named differently depending what market they target.
Shapton Pro is sold in the west and Kuromaku is sold in Japan, though the stones are identical.
Naniwa Pro is sold in the west and Naniwa Chosera is sold in Japan, though in this case the stones are slightly different. Naniwa Pros do not come with a base, nor a nagura, and are slightly thinner. I've heard rumors that the formulation for the Pros is slightly improved over the Choseras. Supposedly they also go through an improved manufacturing process. At the end of the day the only difference anyone is likely to notice is that the stones are thinner but even if they wear the same this is really not a problem since it will take years of use for me to wear through the stone. A Chosera is a better value than a Pros but I think I prefer the Pros because they aren't attached to a base which I find annoying. I suppose you could remove the base with enough patience and care.
As for which stone is better, the only direct comparison I've had is the Shapton Pro 1k and the Naniwa Pro 1k, and Naniwa wins hands down every time. I for one think it's worth the increased price.
The Shapton Pro 5k sucks and while I haven't tried the Naniwa Pro 5k I've heard it's not particularly great. I recommend grabbing the Naniwa Pro 1k and a Suehiro Rika 5k instead of one of the other options.
Also here's the Shapton 1k on Amazon: [link]
Very unfamiliar with foreign Amazon, so bear with me here. The one you linked is not going to be great. The Shapton Pro (Ha No Kuromaku) 1000 is a solid starter stone: [link]
Still not seeing your links to sharpening stones. I had trouble with the auto mod in the beginning, too. Drove me crazy since my links were not affiliate links.
I can tell you after your comment, "I'll see if I can find my stones on the US Amazon in a few hours when I get off work." and then my "Thx" reply, there is the infamous auto mod message, "Comment removed by moderator" followed by, "Your comment or submission contains one or more Amazon affiliate links.", which it probably doesn't.
I finally figured out I had to abbreviate the links, cutting them off when the letters/numbers were all in caps, like at the end of this link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TPFT0G. If I copy and paste the link as is, there are a bunch of letters/numbers/symbols that follow and auto mod removes my post.
Hope that helps. You certainly have helped me.
Are you talking about this stone?
Is that the same as this other one?
That must've been my disconnect. Well, thanks.
Any recommendations? This KW65 1000/6000 is what I was gonna get originally.
I saw this Ha No Kuromaku 1000 recommended elsewhere but I was hoping to get closer to $30-35 in price point.
shapton 1000 is a good starting option. Eventually you might want to pick up something coarser, and something finer, but 1000 grit is a good starting place.
Great for the price and convenient as a splash-n-go stone. Here's a link for OP.
Also is this the shapton you mention?
Is this the Shapton Pro you are talking about? [link]
The difference between SG2 and Ginsan is immaterial (pardon the pun). Pick whichever knife has a more appealing profile to you. Sukenari also makes knives in Ginsan that are a bit less expensive than the Tanakas. I prefer the Sukenari profile but they're both very good.
Why the Shapton 1.5K? Get the 1K instead, especially if it's going to be your coarsest stone. You can get the Ha no Kuromaku line from Amazon. While you're there, grab an SK11 150/600 diamond plate for stone conditioning. Atomas may be nicer for flattening chisel backs but they're not any better at lapping whetstones, which is all you should be doing with it. Also, don't worry too much about stone flatness, it shouldn't be an issue for a while. Try to use the whole surface of the stone when you sharpen, and use the corners for heels and tips. Use the Shapton to flatten/condition the Rika. Also, consider getting a Naniwa Hayabusa instead of the Rika. It doesn't need to soak, stays flatter, and leaves a brighter polish.
Under 100 bucks
1k Shapton stone
8 in wusthof
I just checked the price on amazon the combo stone is 75 dollars, at that price get two Shaptons a 1k and an 8k they are much better stones. I didn't like diamond stones when I tried them so I've gone back to water.
I've got a 320(not so use full after your edges are set) a 1k and a 5k; wish I got the 8 but the strop has greatly improved my edge from before so I don't think I will be getting an 8 anymore.
the core steel (VG10) is hard, but also has a characteristic of likely to chip if you chop say frozen stuff or bones. As long as you don't do that it will not chip on you. There's a reason why this knife is recommended as a starter knife.
this is another alternative, although a bit more pricy
Can go for the shapton #1000
Thanks for the response. I know I can get by with just my chef's knife, but looking to branch out a bit... I don't want just 1 knife in my apartment.
I get that a chef's knife and gyuto are essentially the same thing. Just like a chef’s knife, a gyuto here is the "starting" knife type to invest in, which is why I was asking whether it makes sense for me, given I have a western chef's knife. I'll skip the gyuto and focus on getting a good Nakiri, a good Petty, a functional (budget) Bread, and investing in whetstones.
Here's what I'm looking at:
Nakiri: Budget $100-200
Fujiwara Kanefusa FKJ Series Kurouchi Nakiri 165mm $83 - budget option
Fujiwara Kanefusa FKJ Series Nakiri 165mm $103
Kohetsu HAP40 Wa Nakiri 175mm $170
Masakage Yuki Nakiri 165mm $185
Masakage Kiri VG-10 Nakiri 165mm $200
Petty Budget $100-200
Fujiwara Kanefusa FKM Series Petty 150mm $44 - budget option
Tojiro DP Utility 150mm $54 - budget option
Tanaka VG-10 Petty 150mm $110
Tanaka Damascus Petty 150mm $150
Masakage Yuki Petty 150mm $152
Masakage Kiri VG-10 Petty 150mm $173
Bread Budget: sub $100
Tojiro DP Serrated Bread 215mm $68
MAC Superior Bread Knife 10.5 Inch $90
Whetstones Budget: sub $100
Shapton ha no kuromaku 1k
Shapton ha no kuromaku 5k
Thoughts? Recommendations? Anything I’ve missed?
For a knife AND something to maintain it? Yes. Any knife you use for a solid month is not likely to hold it's edge btw; you WILL need something to maintain it whether a cheap hone or a stone. The cheapest solution I can come up with is this knife which isn't great, but it's the cheapest thing I know of that isn't a Target/Walmart knife, and this whetstone which is pretty decent and will keep things just fine unless you chip the hell out of your knife. The only other cheaper way out is to get a cheap hone from the store or something for $10 and that would last you a while I suppose.
Shapton Glass 1k is $63: [link]
Shapton Pro 1k is $36: [link]
The pros are more than adequate for most knives and most users.
I do leathercrafting, and I'd like to buy myself some sharpening stones as a sort of birthday present to myself. I've asked in the leatherworking sub, and gotten varied suggestions, so I'm broadening my search.
One person suggested water stones - ceramic water stones, specifically. They did suggest some of the Chosera stones (about which I got easily confused since there are multiple 'professional' and 'chosera' named stones, and the original Chosera changed their name), as well as the Shapton Kuromaku line, which I felt would be easier to purchase (cheaper, still highly recommended, and none of that confusion between stones). I could get a 1000 grit for $55 CAD, and if I wanted, a 5000 for $68 (I'm still on the fence if I want to go beyond 1000 followed by a strop right now). Best of all, I just have to spritz these with water before sharpening.
Another user cautioned me against water stones, citing the speed at which they wear as a reason not to go with them. He prefers using oilstones, and suggested a coarse/fine Norton India combination and a soft Arkansas. I can get the Arkansas for about $35 (and a hard Arkansas for a couple dollars more), but the Norton seems to be in limited availability up here in Canada, and I can't seem to find an 8" stone for less than $50 after shipping. The price point of oilstones is very attractive to me, but the thought of cleaning up honing or mineral oil after sharpening just feels messy in comparison to water stones that I don't even need to soak.
Thirdly, I could go with diamond stones. Now, for the most part while these are ideal, the price is much less so. I found a Japanese brand of stone - SK-11 - they normally produces beauty products. I can get a [150/600](www.ebay.ca/itm/SK11-Japan-Double-sided-Diamond-Whetstone-150-600-204-65-7mm/222476412610) combination and a [400/1000](www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-SK-11-Diamond-whetstone-waterstone-sharpening-stone-400-1000-from-JAPAN-F-S-/111905169746) combination stone, for about $50 each. Since most of the diamond stone is dominated by DMT and Atoma, however, I have no idea how reliable SK-11 is as a brand.
TL;DR I've never sharpened a blade before, I want something to start with, but don't want to spend big money upgrading if I get really into it. I prefer ease of use and convenience, and while I want to sharpen leather knives, I'd like to be able to sharpen other tools like woodworking blades/chisels and kitchen knives as well.
EDIT: I don't know why some of my links aren't working, it happens sometimes and I have no idea what I'm doing wrong.
シャプトン 刃の黒幕 オレンジ 中砥 #1000
It depends on your type of metal that your using what will be the best but afaik this sub says 1k pretty much does everything you want and 8k is only for $500+ chef knives that need to stay in pristine condition.
I asked your same question earlier this year on this sub and was recommended Ha No Kuromaku Ceramic Whetstone... [link]
I have a Damascus Steel Santoku and it’s been kick ass for me so far
Get these 3.
Shapton Kuro 1K
Shapton Kuro 5K
Kitayama 8K or get one with a base here Kita with base and use it as a sharpening base like this [link] by putting an anti-slip mat on top of the Kita.