Thank you!! I tried and failed with the filament that comes with the ender 3 v2 (probably my fault). I ordered this black Hatchbox 1.75 mm off of amazon based upon some recomendations online and switched to it about halfway through troubleshooting.
If you can get Amazon deliveries, Hatchbox PLA is the go-to brand. You get some great prints out of it, and it doesn't break the bank
a few spools of these, i'd say around $75. i've printed some guns before.
Thank you for asking I am having similar issues.
Nozzle 200c, bed 60c, freshly washed and wiped with IPA.
Would increasing the extrusion rate help with squishing the first layer?
Yup, PLA. I've tried using brim and still have warping. I'm toying with switching to rafts if I can't figure out what's going on. I have noticed that the adhesion is better on the smooth side of the build plate rather than using the textured side.
Like I mentioned before, my house is very cold and I think the problem is the material is cooling down too quickly. I've tried running with bumping the hot end up to 205 and the bed at 70 and noticed slightly less warping. However, I've also noticed my calibration cube printed fine at 200/50 in a warmer part of my house.
I'm in the process of building an enclosure to help control environmental temperatures but until that gets done, whatever settings I can adjust will have to do.
I just checked amazon, they still has it. Isnt this the one?
HATCHBOX PLA 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, Black, Pack of 1amazon link
I don't mind at all!
Those are 2 different sized spools of filament. It's the same kind of filament that you're going to buy whenever you need to resupply, just probably of a lesser quality. It comes with a little bit of filament already, but you have the option to add the 2.5kg spool (don't do it, just get a spool from Amazon).
Unfortunately I can't say myself what printing with bad filament will do to your overall print as I have never had any go that far. Got worried with one but it still prints just fine. Maybe someone can chime in with that brand, or you should look up what others say about that brand. Seems like things arent quite right with it though. I'd suggest buying a different brand and try that out to see if it performs better. It's possible that you got a bad spool straight out of the gate. I'd personally suggest the hatchbox brand $20 for 1kg spool on amazon. And they seem to be pretty highly recommended across the board. Always got really good prints on mine with hatchbox so long as my settings were right.
So, I typically buy these: HATCHBOX PLA 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, Black, Pack of 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J0ECR5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_859oFbRTY9VCP
You get really high quality prints with good filament!
I bought the pla off amazon, just black hatchbox nothing weird. HATCHBOX 3D PLA-1KG1.75-BLK PLA 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.05 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J0ECR5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_m1i2vu2NI9Njq I have a FF Creator Pro (newer version). It's very frustrating but at least I have some abs still and I'll probably just stick to that haha.
I was having issues with 150mm/s in the advanced settings travel speed. Lowering that to 45~60 (I use 45, people suggest 60) helped me with the stringies. You can try that.
Have you actually measured your filament yet?
Also, I print my PLA [https://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-3D-PLA-1KG1-75-BLK-Filament-Dimensional/dp/B00J0ECR5I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466749766&sr=8-1&keywords=black+1.75mm+pla] at 210Degrees Celcius and it prints just fine. Maybe try lowering that?
Edit: lowering temperature will help w/ the over-extrusion that I was talking about. Lowering flow rate does too, but usually temperature comes first, then make sure filament diameter is right, then flow.
I have the same setup than you. However I never use the fan, I think it makes the prints curl up. I'm about to run out of the filament that came with the kit and just ordered Hatchbox 1.75mm Black PLA , I hope it works well.
I had not trouble with the one that came with the kit, I used 208 C.
Okay, no one here is giving you good advice. You can absolutely get better quality than that on an FDM printer. Don't give up just because this sub is SLA-heavy. People have been printing great DnD minis on hotends like yours for YEARS before SLA was even on the scene.
Firstly, I'm going to refer you to /r/3Dprinting as a source of troubleshooting advice and settings. This community is not really about troubleshooting or technical support.
But to that end: to tune your settings you should really be printing benchy boats or calibration cubes to start with. Those models will give a much better diagnostic of what is going on than a space marine. Once you have those dialed in, you can try miniatures again to see if anything else needs fixing.
I'm gonna start with this advice first:
>I actually inherited this filament front my grandpa, and it's pretty old and a brand I'm not familiar with.
Throw out this filament immediately. This filament is likely brittle, severely moisture contaminated, and no longer functional. I find the quality of the filament is the #1 source of problems for FDM miniatures. I am going to recommend hatchbox, as that is what I use, and I find it melts smooth reducing jams and has great bed adhesion.
Second piece of advice:
Try printing at a lower resolution, ~0.1mm.
At .08, you are really pushing the limits of your extruders' precision, which is not that good on a e3D style hotend. The pilling, blobby surfaces (especially on overhangs), and strings are a result of shitty filament, but also over-extrusion. Your printer cannot reliably place the material within such a tight tolerance, and thus you end up with your results. Loosening that tolerance may bring your prints back within the performance capability of the machine. The larger layer height will be worth the Z dimension sacrifice for greater X-Y precision in each layer.
To that end, your speed, temps, and retraction settings all look good. Support also looks good.
Third piece of advice:
Reset the following settings to defaults:
IN CONCLUSION:
1) replace that nasty filament and see if that helps
2) try printing at a lower resolution ~.1+ and see if you are having the same problems
3) try changing up some of the settings as suggested. Honestly, the default cura settings with just slow speed, lower temps, and 0.44 Line Width will probably get you 90% there alone.
Best of luck and happy printing, you can do it!
Hatchbox PLA may seem a bit obvious, but to newcomers they might not know what kind of filament to get. Hatchbox has some quality stuff! I have had exceptional luck with the black.
I would also recommend the Raspberry Pi Zero W for use with octoprint. Here is a kit with everything you need from Canakit on Amazon ($35) as well as the original from the Adafruit store ($10). Note that the original comes with nothing but the Pi, so you will need your own accessories (i.e. Micro Usb OTG plug, mini HDMI to HDMI adapter, micro usb charger, etc)
HATCHBOX PLA 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, Black, Pack of 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J0ECR5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_Vxi.Fb2235ZZF
i ended up following a suggestion in the past to switch to an all metal because the stock hotend kept cooking my bowden tube. it kept getting all gunked up with a nasty burnt coffee smelling goop.
retraction distance 6mm and speed 25mm/s
nozzle size 0.4mm
Brim? Is there a difference between what I think is normal play and htpla? This is what I've been using
It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users. I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!
Here is link number 1 - Previous text "PLA"
^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete
Thanks!! This black hatchbox 1.75 mm. It looks darker in person, was just shining a killer light
The filament is definitely curling, so I guess I have a blockage, this is what I'm using, at 200C.
Any replacement nozzles you can recommend?
Oh, I did not know that. I followed Dremel's recommendation and all prints except for today's came out beautifully. What would you recommend to be the optimal temp for hatchbox PLA?
The one I am using is from https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J0ECR5I
Yeah! This one: HATCHBOX PLA 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J0ECR5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M-XyBb244C174
Hatchbox is a good go-to. https://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-3D-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B00J0ECR5I/
No I don't think so, but poor extrusion consistency could be why my print quality goes down when I go under 0.60 layer height or slow speeds down below 20mm/s. Both of these changes would theorectically decrease extrusion pressure and cause problems with poor extrusion.
Here is the PLA I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J0ECR5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
One possible solution to poor extrusion is an upgrade to the extrusion gear. This is one of the upgrades I'm hoping to try in the future: https://www.amazon.com/Signswise-Extruder-Driver-Makerbot-Printer/dp/B00ZZRI0DC/ref=as_at?imprToken=aQzkLClLVwaOhO32jAnr3g&slotNum=0&SubscriptionId=AKIAJSOXNA2EGTA44JQA&tag=letsprint3d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165...
Another option for making extrusion more consistent and smooth is to increase temperature.
Cool, thank you very much. I've added it all to my cart and i've thrown on this filament.
Gotcha, here's all the settings https://imgur.com/ryebQVY - additions https://imgur.com/yzqPRwz - advanced https://imgur.com/W5XhUFI - cooling https://imgur.com/UUfqYmu - Extruder https://imgur.com/OuS4hWT - GCode https://imgur.com/akOIz96 - Infill https://imgur.com/3BfOwbu - Layer https://imgur.com/j5crclu - Other https://imgur.com/sYN7FHk - scripts https://imgur.com/g1eLHBl - support https://imgur.com/GgB1euo - temperature
Printing this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1170181
Basically all the red lines (path I think?) are where the strings occur. Using this filament: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J0ECR5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Which is: HATCHBOX 3D PLA-1KG1.75-BLK PLA 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.05 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, Black
It's a type of plastic filament that 3D printers use. :) It comes on a spool and feeds into the machine.
I'll break it down.
(Edit:) My Printer: https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-mk3/
Multi-Material : https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-multi-material-2-0/
Multi Material Extrusion - You can choose color. I don't OWN many color, as it's 15-20 dollars a spool. (2.2 pounds of material I think per spool)
I am paying the invoice on the kit today, which means I will recieve the kit in a week or so. I built a kit just like this last year, it took twelve hours over a three day weekend and I didn't use a chair. I eyeballed the measurements and it worked wonderfully.
So, assuming this time is going to be similar, I need a week to have it built, i need a few weeks to calibrate it (installing a glass top means I can see my reflection on the bottom of a flat print. A black piece will reflect the color of my hair when I am looking at it like a mirror. Although this is most always the "bottom" of the piece and will never be seen, it functions like a mirror.
Ok? So I need like 6 weeks from today. I only own uh like, 8 colors, most of them are transparent. Red Green Blue, Yellow Purple Orange, Black Grey Silver White (Glow in the Dark White). These caught my eye and I plan on purchasing normal people colors like dark green and blue and earthy colors and such. Solid not translucent, etc.
OK? So in this six weeks I'd need to learn more about modeling, unless you go to a 3d print website (free) and send me links of stuff you want printed (free) then I have to model it on my own, which is possible, but I love playing LID and I'm finally coming down off of my LID binge. It's been 6 weeks and I haven't played anything else.
So I'm not THAT full of shit, and it is definitely completely real and unstoppable, as I am about to be paying the invoice today (I've been putting it off for a week)
Basically it would cost you 20 dollars per KG because that's mat cost (I'm not worried about electricity) here is a run of the mill example for filament pricing, so unlike these other shitbags, I won't charge 10x (yes seriously) the price of the material. https://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-3D-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B00J0ECR5I/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=filament&qid=1557349298&s=gateway&sr=8-3
So yes. If you are okay with transparent, non-custom pieces from the internet (millions of options), then the soonest i could have it "out to you" would be like a month. I could send you free samples in like a week from today, but that would be printed on a machine that isn't calibrated. I slap it together, I'm only one person, ok.
So if you have any questions beyond this or if you want to send me links like this https://www.thingiverse.com/
or this
https://www.thingiverse.com/AnaErwin/collections/flexi
pm me
There's too many god damn options. If you know anything about videogame modelling, it's the exact same program, I use blender to model my videogame files and my 3d print files, so ... if you find video game meshes, I can print those, too. No guarantees though, I tried to print a soul gem from morrowind and ended up with a mess.