If there aren't any other video ports... You can get one of these
You are looking for an "HDMI Switch". Make sure it has 2 (or more) inputs with one output.
Something like this. I don't have this specific product, it's just came up in an Amazon search.
Monitor input switch. Something like this.
HDMI Switch 4k HDMI Splitter-GANA Aluminum Bidirectional HDMI Switcher,HDMI Switch Splitter 2 in 1 Out, Manual HDMI Hub Supports HD 4K@60hz for Blu-Ray-Player Fire Stick Xbox(Only ONE monitor) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K2NZX8L/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_192DYWBVYR3ZB9GKNJMT
Here ya go
HDMI Switch 4k HDMI Splitter-GANA Aluminum Bidirectional HDMI Switcher,HDMI Switch Splitter 2 in 1 Out, Manual HDMI Hub Supports HD 4K@60hz for Blu-Ray-Player Fire Stick Xbox(Only ONE monitor) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K2NZX8L/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_6Z7KF16G0Q9VAAW56XJ3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
And if you have a single input, you can use a HDMI splitter (it is what is use), like https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-GANA-Bidirectional-Supports-Passthrough-HDMI/dp/B07K2NZX8L?qsid=145-6264079-8688404&sres=B06VX1PKQ7%2CB07K2NZX8L%2CB0732MD43P%2CB08JLZWMM4%2CB076JDXPRG%2CB01D3JE0MS%2CB08L1N8TG9%2CB07HR1WD4S%2CB07RY7Y9PR%2CB007N...
I had the same issue with my aging parents and a DVD player. I purchased a manual switch as it was easier for them just press a physical button as opposed to having to navigate the inputs on the TV. It also made trouble shooting much easier when things didnt work.
Thank you for the huge write-up. I will look into the Dell WD19TBS. My work machine is not mine, so I need my own hardware :(
I honestly don't like yanking the USB-C cable out and plugging it back in whenever I switch machines, so I have two of this splitter for two monitors, but they would not work if I have a third one. I'm looking at a magnetic adapter to see if it makes the job easier.
I would prefer having a KVM, but since you said software is required, I'm so torn between the KVM and the docking station...
I do that when I realized my PSVR box was not passing through 4K. I use https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K2NZX8L/ and have my single port side an to my PS5 with the dual port side running to a receiver and to the PSVR that then also goes to the receiver.
I’m having trouble finding a reverse switch that does 3-to-1, most of the reverse (also bidirectional would work) are only 2-to-1.
If that’s an option, you could go with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K2NZX8L/
Basically you need something that supports HDMI 2.0, and is either a reverse switch (should say 1 in, 3 out or something, not 3 in, 1 out) or something that specifically says “bidirectional” (in that case, it doesn’t matter which way is listed as in/out.
The difference here is that bidirectional are mechanical switches. Inside the box, it’s connecting the pins from one HDMI cable to the other. There are no electronics inside, it’s just a box with connecting metal. Most switches are “active,” which means they’ll only go the direction they’re “intended.”
Good luck!
I would look into buying an external HDMI 2>1 switch. They are super cheap so if your brother wears out the HDMI's ports on them it only costs you $9.00 instead of having to replace the HDMI ports on the TV itself, which can sometimes be more expensive than just buying a new TV.
It's actually two devices - optical switch (any on amazon) and I'm actually only using it to bridge the optical (straight from PS4) into the HDMI switch. You could forego it if your PS4 is close enough or you have another HDMI run.
Then I have this bidirectional HDMI switcher which unfortunately can't be controlled via IR. Since ARC is technically an output from your Beam: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K2NZX8L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
HDMI Switch 4k HDMI Splitter-GANA Aluminum Bidirectional HDMI Switcher, HDMI Switch Splitter 1 in 2 Out or 2 in 1 Out, Manual HDMI Hub Supports HD 4K 3D 1080P for HDTV Blu-Ray-Player Fire Stick Xbox https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K2NZX8L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Lr2bEbJ98TVAA
I bought this last night
Or maybe something like this if you want a switch to move between displays
I've never used either of these products, so I'm not recommending them in specific, I'm only showing the solutions exist.
If your Logitech keyboard/mouse are Flow-enabled, you could also try using a HDMI switch (example).
You can get premade priority hdmi splitters on amazon for pretty cheap
About potentiometers: You will want to make sure its an audio/exponential potentiometer instead of a linear potentiometer. This is because the resistance goes up exponentially on an audio pot because we percieve volume on a logarithmic scale. You can test this with a multimeter by comparing the change in resistance near the top limit vs near the bottom limit.
> Does the pot go before or after the headphone jack?
> Does the pot go before or after the amp?
It really shouldn't matter where you put the volume pot, as long as it's in series with the speakers. I'd put it on the + side, between the speakers/3.5mm jack and the amp.
> How do you know what side is positive/negative on the pot?
Assuming the potentiometer has 3 terminals, It doesn't matter as long as you connect the middle and one of the two sides to + or -. The direction you turn it might be reversed, and if so you'd disconnect the side terminal and connect it to the other side terminal.
If it has two terminals, it doesn't matter.
> Should I use a separate ground for the audio?
> can all grounds be connected?
All grounds have to be connected unless you isolate them somehow. Every time you have a data/signal wire, you have to have a corresponding ground that goes to the same components. You might get audible interference if the audio ground isn't isolated, but it really depends. You'd probably have to test it.
> Is the switch normally closed or open?
I'd assume the switch on the pot you have is NC, but you can check with a multimeter to make sure.
> I have it cutting the ground from the audio source, will this mute it?
Yes, as long as the speakers don't complete a circuit it'll be muted. You can test it with a multimeter.
As far as the buck converter, IDK. I'm pretty new too and haven't designed one yet. You might be able to calculate or estimate the efficiency of the buck converter from the datasheet, and using that you can calculate the heat dissipation.
For the USB hub, IDK why there are so many capacitors, but no, they generally don't have to be physically spread out on the PCB. Inductors might have to, but not capacitors.
> assuming this is the case can I get rid of the second PCB and wall wart and replace them with a battery charge circuit on my PCB?
Yes, this should work
https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-GANA-Bidirectional-Supports-Passthrough-HDMI/dp/B07K2NZX8L
its called a bidirectional hdmi switcher and it exists
Cheap and easy solution, this is what I did for my gaming PC/work desk.
2 of these for the monitors
HDMI Switch 4k HDMI Splitter-GANA... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K2NZX8L?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
One of these for the keyboard/mouse Sabrent USB 3.0 Sharing Switch... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TYDJK2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And a hub to make more USB ports avail. USB C to USB Hub 4 Ports, Syntech... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08THLZ4K9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
total cost 55 USD
If you want more details on how to set up DM me.
There are tons of switches on amazon.
Whenever i needed one, i just picked one that would fit my needed specs (resolution, hz). I never ran into problems with Xbox, PS4, different PCs, Chromecasts or the current gen consoles. Both PS5 and XSX need a HDMI 2.1 switch tho.
Just make sure, you have a third hdmi cable.
This one got a 4.3 of 5 star rating from 13000+ people:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K2NZX8L/
If you don't need more than 4K/60Hz for the laptop, that one should be fine. It's 12.99 instead of 19.99$. (Don't know if you have it too: Amazon would even let me activate a further 10% discount. So, it's worth a shot.)
You can connect a HDMI or DisplayPort switch to each monitor. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-GANA-Bidirectional-Supports-Passthrough-HDMI/dp/B07K2NZX8L
Second that suggestion. If you only need to have two inputs then this would do the job fine
https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-GANA-Bidirectional-Supports-Passthrough-HDMI/dp/B07K2NZX8L
I run a CCwGTV, Roku, BD player and a Plex client into a 5 ports HDMI switch (with remote) into my soundbar and then feed the soundbar into one of the HDMI inputs on the TV and it works fine.
https://ibb.co/rMhWXc0 (I didn't know you can't reply to Reddit posts with images; still learning). This is what I use, not too sure if it's what you're talking about, but if you want to be able to use one display and switch back and forth between Mac and PC, then this would be it! Amazon link here.
If you are using it with a monitor, hide it behind the screen or place standing behind some text books. Get a hdmi switcher for emergency button (switches instantly) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K2NZX8L/
I use this one and it works very well. Keep in mind it uses a physical switch, there's no remote.
i think something like this between your current switch output and between each of the monitor inputs will work. https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-GANA-Bidirectional-Supports-Passthrough-HDMI/dp/B07K2NZX8L
I have this which works quite well. I use it on my MacBook and my PC. I use a docking station to switch my USB devices
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> I'm not sure if this is a simple question or not. I have this switch setup on my monitor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K2NZX8L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 > > ​ > > Connected to it are my desktop PC and my work laptop. The problem is whenever I switch away from my laptop and back, I lose the signal. I can only restore it by opening my laptop, and changing the output mode to 'Extend' and then back to 'Duplicate' and the signal is restored. > > It's definitely an issue with the laptop, as I have tried swapping both the HDMI cords and their positions on the Switch. The desktop never has any issue. Is there some sort of setting on the laptop that might fix this? > > Thanks
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/dy3p55/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_18_2019/f7y8qc9/
> I bought a new monitor and I want to use my old monitor as a new one, but my PC has only one HDMI-port and one DisplayPort-port. I can't seem to get my DisplayPort to work? How can I use my old monitor as a second monitor?
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/dy3p55/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_18_2019/f7zh6fv/
> https://i.imgur.com/HBRYl2Q.png > What exactly are these updates? What are they even updating? They seem odd. Particularly the one titled 'INTEL - System - 7/18/1968 12:00:00 AM - 10.1.16.7' > > Google seems to give various answers. The intel - net seems to be a network driver and bluetooth is bluetooth but it seems odd these were not picked up 2 months ago when I first built this PC. > > Thanks
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/dy3p55/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_18_2019/f7zq3s1/
> Hello! I'm not sure if this is the best place to ask this but I'm looking for advice regarding re-applying thermal paste on my laptop's CPU and GPU. (I can't afford to build a pc right now unfortunately...) > > I've recently opened up my old Asus ROG G551JM (bought in 2015) because my CPU temps been consistently at 93-96C while playing FFXIV/CSGO (GPU is around 80-82C). > > I noticed that there's some stuff under the film(?) surrounding both the CPU and GPU. I'm assuming it's thermal paste from when I asked a cheap technician to clean it last year... > https://imgur.com/a/wmtvK3F > > After reapplying some new thermal paste (Arctic MX-4, MUCH lesser and just enough amount) on both of them , the CPU temp is still the same when playing. > > Is the thermal paste residue under the film(?) the reason or is my laptop just too old and battered...? > > EDIT: > For the record, my temps did decrease to around 85C last year after applying the thermal paste but this time around, it's not decreasing at all...
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/dy3p55/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_18_2019/f8008fq/
> Sorry I'm not sure if this is the place to post but I was wondering if someone could link me to a quality adapter for separate microphone and headphone jacks. My headset is a single cord and wont work with the split jacks. I ordered one off of ebay but it makes my mic volume so low you basically can't hear anything on the other end. I feel like I could find one easier if I knew exactly the name of what I'm looking for.
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/dy3p55/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_18_2019/f808uhp/
> Hi Everyone, > > Not sure if this is a stupid question or not. I currently have the following SSD: > > Samsung 850 Evo 250GB M.2 SSD > > Now is something like below a substantial step up, or much the same? Or are there other SSDs i should be looking at? I'd also probably upgrade to a 500GB or 1Tb. > > Samsung 970 Evo Plus NVMe SSD
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/dy3p55/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_18_2019/f80eohi/
> I literally cannot get my PC to work online. It never gave me problems now every few days it slams me with Unidentified Network and won’t work. Anyone know a fix? I’ve tried a good bit of the stuff on the web and it only helps once, after that I try it again the next time it pops up and it won’t work.
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/dy3p55/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_18_2019/f80onfz/
> I currently have an Intel processor and want to upgrade my whole computer. I want either the 9900K (not the S) or the 3900X. With AMD, are the drivers/stability amazing? Reliability (glitch-free) experience is more important than performance. Drivers are for the processor, the chipset - lots of stuff.
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/dy3p55/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_18_2019/f80rn7j/
> Need an office chair recommendation. High-quality, comfortable, durable, lots of room for "manspreading." Budget of perhaps $350.
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/dy3p55/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_18_2019/f80skew/
> So I use d3doverrider to fix the framerate issues for AC4 - Black Flag and for the most part it works perfectly. Strangely, the only place it doesn't is when Edward lands from a high place and does that roll. My frames drop there every time, without fail. Does anyone have a fix or at least know of something like this? > > My specs are GTX 970, i7-4770, 16GB RAM and Windows installed on an SSD
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/dy3p55/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_18_2019/f80vvf5/
> Is this a good pc for playing games like rust? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q3G3B67/ref=psdc_13896597011_t3_B07TR79GS7?th=1
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/dy3p55/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_18_2019/f80y0w7/
> Would I be able to ask a simple question here? If this is not the right reddit for this, I apologize.
> My sister wants to buy a new computer and she was looking at these three:
> Lenovo Yoga 920
> Microsoft Surface Laptop 3
> Huawei MateBook 13
>
> Which should she get? Or should she get something entirely different?
> These all look more expensive than she probably needs.
> She mostly uses it to surf the web, do word documents, maybe stream some music or a movie. Nothing too elaborate.
>
> Any recommendations?
>
> Thanks, take care!
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/dy3p55/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_18_2019/f80ys5g/
> Monitor, mouse and keyboard unable to connect with computer, already changed the motherboard, clean the ram sticks, take out the cmos battery (didn't change it) what other things I have to do? Is the CPU?
/r/pcmasterrace/comments/dy3p55/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_18_2019/f81fa5b/
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