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My Ender 3 had this happen a lot because of the extruder slipping. The plastic clamp had a crack on the underside you could only see once removed but gave enough slack so that the PLA wasnt feeding properly even after calibration feed rate.
This fixed it for me and i think even the new pro versions have this pre-installed.
I have an Ender 3 Pro and I think it is as u/thesqueeeps said. It looks like the filament isn't aligned with the hole going into the Bowden tube. That silver guide wheel should be rotating while the filament is loaded. I usually like to push the filament in by hand while squeezing the extruder to make sure it gets past that trouble spot. Of course you should always angle cut your filament to make it easier to insert.
Like someone else mentioned, the stock extrusion setup is pretty crappy. I upgraded to the MK8 Aluminum version and I have had a much easier time loading filament.
I had this same exact problem and calibrating Esteps solved it. That said, my spring had weakened on my extruder which I did a temporary fix on using small washers on both sides of the spring while I waited for the following.
HICTOP Upgraded Replacement Aluminum MK8 Extruder Drive Feed for Creality 3D Printer Ender 3/3Pro CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 S4, and CR-10 S5
Easy $10 fix and seems to have solved the problem permanently.
While this is most likely caused by a jam in the hotend, I do want to mention that I just upgraded my cr-10s extruder feeder to this aluminum one from amazon. It keeps a lot more pressure on the filament, which according to the calibration guide is good.
I've tried different speeds, cleaned the nozzle, replaced the nozzle, replaced the Bowden fittings and tubing, replaced the extruder drive feed with an "upgraded" one from Amazon. It happens with PLA, ABS, and PETG
I've got the ender 3 pro with skr 1.3 and TMV 2209s running Marlin.
The temps seem stable, I was just trying to print pla at 200c, at 50mm/s, pretty stock settings.
Here you just need one of these. Those plastic extruders feeds will eventually development a groove from the filament dragging and will cause what you are talking about. This is the same one I bought no problems since.
HICTOP Upgraded Replacement Aluminum MK8 Extruder Drive Feed for Creality 3D Printer Ender 3/3Pro CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 S4, and CR-10 S5 [link]
Ok seems it was $20.
Someone recommended this [link] in a reddit comment.
Since I was at that moment testing a calibration cube at 135% flow rate and still seeing random under extrusion I figured. Why not?
just barely mounted it last night so haven't done much printing.
Apart from a cube and a cable catcher that failed.
But the layer lines are excellent compared to before.
That's exactly the one I have. I've linked it a few different times here. Just be wary that they occasionally ship with missing parts. Mine came with a couple screws missing, other people have reported to be missing the lever arm spacer, which is more difficult to do without.
>MacEwen3D tests everything we offer. We don't refer to bolt-ons as upgrades, unless it actually upgrades performance and reliability. Choose wisely.
Well they've got my vote
I ended up with the generic HICTOP all metal Red Extruder. The double springs worked fine on the plastic extruder but I figured it wasn't a permanent solution. Switching to the all metal one and using the double springs actually caused my extruder to skip so I had to go to the spring it came with, seems to be working fine.
The plastic extruder is garbage. I've added the aluminum upgrade to three Creality printers and it has been perfect every time.
Yep, these are a notorious weak spot on most Creality printers.
I run two CR-10S and one Ender3 and put the aluminum extruder on all of them.
I got this one: [link]
My arm was cracked on the bottom where it wasn't visible without removing it.
I wound up replacing the whole extruder mechanism with a metal one from amazon. [link] seems to be the one. Mind you, I still have to replace Bowden tube connectors on a regular basis.
I got this one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0761PGLZ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Based the decision on price and how fast I could get it to my house. Admittedly I didn't really spend much time comparing, as this was a "get it running" thing, not a final upgrade. That means that there is probably a better choice if you're upgrading and not just trying to get back in operation.
^Item&nbsp;Info | Bot&nbsp;Info | Trigger
The repaired unit that's working now got one of these installed today: [link]
The non-working unit still has the stock extruder.
Both got their hotends cleaned with a metal pick, then with q-tips and acetone, had their nozzles replaced, and got Capricorn tubes. The one with the stock extruder still doesn't want to work right - it's feeding irregularly.
This arrives Monday for that one, going to try it: [link]
If it sucks I'll buy the red $10 one.
The same thing happened to me! Buy this --> https://smile.amazon.com/HICTOP-Upgraded-Replacement-Aluminum-Extruder/dp/B0761PGLZ4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=ender+3+pro+extruder&qid=1633350864&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A2UHE58S2974CT&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExTzJGQTU1MjU3QTlNJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDQ3OTQ5MlZaWU1OV1o4V0hVUCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODU4Mjc2NEoyR0JDSVpDRVhBJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
It will take about ten minutes to install it. It's made of aluminum and it works great. I did do an extrusion test / calibration after I installed it. It was under-extruding by a bit.
I've got a Pi 3b that I use for octoprint. Can do that or a 4. Just try to avoid a first gen or zero.
My Ender 3v2 had a feedback issue when I plugged it in so keep this in mind.
I got this aluminum extrusion kit last week. So I don't have a long term review on it but I did have to get it after I broke my plastic one. How bad can you mess up aluminum? IDK.
For bed springs I got these. Have been working well for me.
And for filament, this eSun has been real good for me.
You need this
This arrived yesterday. When the printer is done printing tomorrow I’ll replace it.
HICTOP Upgraded Replacement... [link]
This what I got and it has been great.
I seriously thought I posted that link here. Lemme fetch it....
Do yourself a favor and get a metal one. They are like 10-12 bucks on Amazon.
Retailer says this one will work. Ordered it and we shall see.
I replaced my broken extruder with an aluminum extruder from amazon.
Pulled the gear, installed the new extruder, buttoned everything back up, and tried to run it. Alas, no joy. The filament extruding from the nozzle looks OK, but it's just not pushing enough filament through. I kind of feel like the motor just doesn't have any torque, but I don't know why that would happen all of a sudden. I checked the hot end pretty thoroughly, and didn't find anything that looked like a problem, and I've done several atomic pulls, without getting anything that looked like burnt filament or other signs of a clog.
I don't like the looks of the gigdigit ones, nor the replacement ones from monoprice. The tubing connector looks crappy.
The amazon links on the wiki are no longer available.
I really suspect that this will fit, even though the seller says not:
I'm certainly game for other suggestions as well. Maybe I should put this in a new post...
I needed print some cosplay parts in a softer material so I upgraded my Cr-10 to direct drive with the stock hotend to print flexible filament. Results have been amazing so far. I can do 50mm/s with Best-Q and Sainsmart flexible TPU filament and I might be able to push it even further.
Mods for the Direct Drive
DD mount- I used a modified version of this stl so i could keep my current fang setup
Extension cable for Extruder cables
I used this set for all cable for the CR-10 but you only need to extend the Extruder drive so you could find or make your own extension since the connectors are off the shelf
Mods for Flexible Filament
Upgraded Extruder feeder - I used the metal version from Amazon but there are printable versions on Thingiverse for flexible filament
*Other Mods pictured*
Capricorn ptfe tube
Ive done upto 50mm/s using Best-Q and Sainsmart flexible filament. I might be able to go faster depending on the part. NOTE: Best-Q and Sainsmart are flexible but they are nowhere near as flexible as ninjaflex. I dont have ninjaflex to test how fast I could go or if its as issue free like brands im using.
The benchy pictured was done at 40mm/s
I only use the PEI sheet for adhesion but sometime I add glue stick to make sure it sticks.
I set my retraction to 1 but I have not tested other values and compared.
I dont see any issue with the added weight so far. Ive been printing for the last 2 weeks
With the version of the mount I printed, I do not lose any bed space.
The extra part on top of the mount is for a filament sensor I have not added yet.
I do get stringing but its not as bad as thought it would be
My PLA prints seem unaffected but Ive been doing mostly TPU the last 2 weeks
This might work, but it's a different style. Amazon has these: [link] which are the same style, but aluminum.
The plastic extruder mechanism wears out quickly.
I've put this aluminum extruder on 3 Creality printers and it solved the issue every time.
That's a real bummer :( it sounds like it needs a shim, or to be returned and replaced. I bought this one and other than needing an additional m3 screw to hold the spring in place (I think I just lost the other one during the install) it's worked flawlessly. I also picked up a set of stainless extruder gears. Together these parts are performing flawlessly. not a great example, but it was dark when I took the picture.
I've put 3 of these Hictop extruders on two CR-10S and one Ender 3. They work great so far!
Yeah I've already upgrade to an all aluminum extruder.
Out of curiosity, which one are you using?
I have this extruder, how do I adjust the spring tension?
Picture of what part of the printer?
When my CR-10S did something similar it was because the extruder gear and idler wheel weren't clamping together tightly enough.
I was able to fix it somewhat by stretching out the spring in the extruder clamp to give more tension. Also make sure you didn't over-tighten the screw that the clamp arm pivots on.
Eventually I replaced the plastic extruder mechanism with an aluminum one and the problem went away for good.
I threw it out along with the rest of the plastic thing. But there's really no wrong way to do it, as long as the spacer stays in place. If you can wedge something in there long enough to print this thing, you should be good to go.
Though I strongly recommend upgrading to an aluminum one. This is the feed mechanism I purchased for my CR-10. It should fit the Ender 3 as well. Mine came with a couple of screws missing, fortunately I had extras.
After cleaning out my bowden tube between the tube itself and the nozzle, and removing the gunked up crud as well as trimming the end of the bowden tube where some filament was partially blocking, I put everything back together as it should be and set another test print for last night. I used the same model I had printed somewhat successfully but changed the following:
.2 less on wall thickness
10% less on density
10 added to Print speed
40 added to Travel speed
10% less on support density
And unfortunately, alittle more than halfway through the print this happened:
This morning I pulled apart the bowden tube and nozzle again to check for that problem from before but this time everything was fairly clear, no gunk in between tube and nozzle. At this point, I think it may be the extruder or possibly even something to do with the feeding of the filament spool itself since it seems to be a problem occuring around the same height everytime. I ordered an upgraded extruder [aluminum body] and better bowden tube this morning. Has anyone else noticed this kind of problem occurring consistently around the same height?
This is what I bought, it comes Saturday so I can Let you know if it works
Sorry I actually replaced the entire drive feed piece, not just the spring.
I got this one but also this other one for our other cr10 because I don't like the stock driver gear.
This was the last resort option for me after I've checked EVERYTHING. Leveling, clean nozzle, different temp/flowrates, different filaments, slower speeds, different slicers, etc. I even swapped consoles and motor steppers with other working cr10s to get down to the issue.
I decided to print vase mode and check the density of the print through a light. For a portion of it I held the spring out so that the gears will grip the filament better. During that portion the print was nice and solid and the other parts it was very see through and some layer separation. That was the final call that got me the new drive gear.
I'd bought the nice looking hictop anodised aluminium extruder in advance of any cracking problems and to prep for flexible filaments. I went to install it and found that Monoprice had epoxied the hobbed gear onto the servo shaft. I got the grub screw out with a ton of force but no joy on the gear. Wtf guys.
Instead of potentially destroying the servo from force or heat, I gave up and printed robin7331's excellent base and arm, and followed his handy video to get the extruder set up for flexible filament. It was Super easy. Though I have crappy Phillips head screws on my MP Select Mini V1-and-a-half-ish, so had to sub in an M3 hex cheese head to better retain the bearing in the arm.
Imo that's a more capable end result than the mk8 at least because of the flexible mod.
Time for one of these.
Over time the plastic extruder wears out. I’ve put three of these on two CR-10S and one Ender 3 and the problem went away.