What is Reddit's opinion of HiLetgo FT232RL FTDI Mini USB to TTL Serial Converter Adapter Module 3.3V 5.5V FT232R Breakout FT232RL USB to Serial Mini USB to TTL Adapter Board for Arduino?

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I sprang for some breadboard jumper wires, so that's made things somewhat easier. I'm also working with this USB to TFDI Adapter:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IJXZQ7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As with your setup, the instructions I'm following also mentioned TX to RX, RX to TX, so I've done that. But here's a question: the TFDI Adapter had those pins jumpered. You can see it in that image on Amazon. That seemed wrong to me, so on my next attempt I was going to remove the jumper. Any thoughts on that?

I have used one similar to this for the ESP32-CAM.

It has a jumper to switch between 5V and 3.3V levels and has RTS and DTR outputs to automatically boot to flash mode.

Yeah I only paid $60 total for all 3 Uncharted games CIB, NFR loose Motorstorm, CIB Heavy Rain, and CIB LBP1, 2 SIXAXIS controllers in good condition, charging cable, and the PS3 itself. If I were to buy all those things on eBay (I was already planning on Uncharted and LBP) it would cost the same/more and that's not even including the PS3, so it was essentially free. Not to mention, even a dead CECHE01 goes for $40+ on eBay so...

I'm fine with dirty work involving soldering and the syscon. From skimming over the video/description it just looks like I just need one of these cheap boards (don't worry, non-affiliate link) to do the diagnosis, correct? And then if I have to replace the RSX, a $28 chip on eBay and take it to a local repair place who has a BGA/SMD rework station, I don't know exactly how much that'd cost but I can call the repair places and find out.

HiLetgo FT232RL FTDI Mini USB to TTL Serial Converter Adapter Module 3.3V 5.5V FT232R Breakout FT232RL USB to Serial Mini USB to TTL Adapter Board for Arduino https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJXZQ7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_C55BWMT4PD7K5037V1Z9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

That’s the one I have. I have no idea how to use it as I haven’t messed with ps3 consoles much.

HiLetgo FT232RL FTDI Mini USB to TTL Serial Converter Adapter Module 3.3V 5.5V FT232R Breakout FT232RL USB to Serial Mini USB to TTL Adapter Board for Arduino https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJXZQ7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_HVD2Z2254SN6ADGF6ZSD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Will this one work? I noticed it doesn’t say it works with windows 10. Where would the solder points be? I looked on eBay but refuse to wait 90 years for one.

Thanks. This looks like a single ended 5V TTL UART. You do not need any business with RS-422, you can get one of those to connect directly to your PC:

HiLetgo FT232RL FTDI Mini USB to TTL Serial Converter Adapter Module 3.3V 5.5V FT232R Breakout FT232RL USB to Serial Mini USB to TTL Adapter Board for Arduino https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJXZQ7C/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_914V7HQXB1H0M740NADG

Then make sure to use the jumper to select 5V on the adapter, and you can connect the RX and TX pins directly to your gyro (pin 14 and 25). Don't forget to hold CTS (pin 21) high since you will not use flow control.

Download a utility such as PuTTY on the PC to open the serial port.

I flash nodemcu often so I was going to try what I know. Open the wyze camera and find rx, rx, ground and v3 for power. Hook up this to the pins HiLetgo FT232RL FTDI Mini USB to TTL Serial Converter Adapter Module 3.3V 5.5V FT232R Breakout FT232RL USB to Serial Mini USB to TTL Adapter Board for Arduino https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJXZQ7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_E0K4R3TRDWYAR8X74W0E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 and then trying flashing it over usb with the .bin firmware. I was able to get the camera to take an old firmware on an SD card so I don’t need to try this now. But that was going to be my method.

Thank you! This is what I was told before to use: the TTL…..

https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-FT232RL-Converter-Adapter-Breakout/dp/B00IJXZQ7C/ref=pd_sbs_2/131-4098555-1416551?pd_rd_w=UFvKg&pf_rd_p=0f56f70f-21e6-4d11-bb4a-bcdb928a3c5a&pf_rd_r=Z14MRQZ69MM6D1VZ0RPC&pd_rd_r=73785a20-f015-41a5-9f18-a2...

You may also want to double check that they’re really bricked. I saw a post a while back about re-running tuya convert on them, that they sometimes just aren’t broadcasting the ssid, or something along those lines. I’ll try to find it. I just have a cheapo ftdi from Amazon. It works fine, just wish it had a micro usb instead of mini usb connection. HiLetgo FT232RL FTDI Mini USB to TTL Serial Converter Adapter Module 3.3V 5.5V FT232R Breakout FT232RL USB to Serial Mini USB to TTL Adapter Board for Arduino https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJXZQ7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HLWtFbHJ4XHWM

Love those things. No easier way to get a micro talking to a PC. Personally, I like the basic breakout FTDI board you can find on Amazon, for instance: https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-FT232RL-Converter-Adapter-Breakout/dp/B00IJXZQ7C/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_lp_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JDMJB6GZ8AAKG7H9V3TR

Its not a bad process if you have the correct serial converter. I spent hours yelling at it until I figured that out.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IJXZQ7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Once you have that it only takes a few minutes. I've done a few of them since.

Thanks for the advice. What voltage do I need? I thought the max was 3.3V. If I remember correctly, when I was checking the voltage with my DMM, I saw 2.8V or so. There's some other issues. For example, every time I turn on the device (or plug it in), I see garbled text, then normal. It's only then. It's not during bootup or anything. I'm also having trouble getting to a shell (but I did manage to get to a shell) and I typed fastboot, nothing. Absolutely nothing showed up on the screen after typing it. Just a black window. But I tried running ./sunxi-fel version and still received the same error message. I ran lsusb and still didn't see the NES's CPU in FEL mode. So, I'm thinking maybe having the RS232 shifter hooked up to a USB cable is causing the issues.

I was thinking maybe something with the wires I used caused the garbled text at the beginning, but it's weird that it's only there in the very beginning. Also, my shifter had a torn trace so I soldered a jumper wire. The bad trace was for the TX. Because of the issues getting to a shell, I'll try soldering it in a different spot. Obviously, the jumper wire isn't making a good connection. That shouldn't affect FEL mode though.

I've ordered this to help rule out problems:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IJXZQ7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But it won't arrive until Tuesday. I need to provide power for this device as well, right? Maybe I should just power the adapter with an external power source, instead of powering it from the NES. The current pad I'm using for power is the one right next to the RX pad on the NES.

That's a bummer. Most usb2serial adapters have enough juice. I've flashed literally hundreds of ESP devices and never haf a voltage related failure. These work well and are dirt cheap.

Flashing a briked router

serial connections, sort of

arduino for serial connections

usb to serial

just a start.

It will be a row of either three of four pin holes or pads right next to each other.

The pins will be for ground, data-receive, data-transmit, and possibly a fourth pin that you don't need, which would be power (+5V). There will usually be a square one one of the ends, and that's pin 1 for the group, which will usually be ground.

If you are not sure, post a high-res picture for people to look at and we can guess.

You will need an adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-FT232RL-Converter-Adapter-Breakout/dp/B00IJXZQ7C

Note how that adapter has it's jumper on "5V". You would need to move it over to the "3V" position. The only pins on the output you would need to connect are the "GND" "TX" and "RX".

or

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Serial-Converter-Development-Projects/dp/B075N82CDL/144-0030300-9916759?psc=1

Then you need some little molex pin cables like this:

https://www.amazon.com/EDGELEC-Breadboard-Optional-Assorted-Multicolored/dp/B07GD2BWPY

You will probably have to guess about which pins are transmit and receive. Just poke around and try hitting enter a bunch on your keyboard.

As for software, use putty on Windows or picocom on linux. baud will need to be 115200 and everything else defaults.

Pro Mini is even smaller and cheaper. It doesn't have built in USB so you need a USB to TTL Serial adapter to program it.

Sure - just get a Sonoff SV from eBay or the like, and a USB to Serial interface to program. I also picked up a couple Magnetic Switches for open/closed sensors.

​

• Connect the SV and Serial programer as below to the programming pins on the SV board:

- 3V3 to power (make sure you only use 3.3V when programming the 5V will kill it)

- Ground to Ground

- RX to TX

- TX to RX (oddly, on one of the adapters I have RX-RX and TX-TX worked, try that if you run into issues)

​

• Download fullhaaboot.bin from the Developer's GitHub and on Windows I used the NodeMCU Flasher to write the firmware to the SV. Reboot it and it'll start its own little hotspot HAA-XXXXX for you to connect to.
• Copy the JSON string from HERE and connect to the hotspot. you should be auto-directed to the setup page, paste the JSON string into the config box when you're connected and setup your WIFI details then save.
• It'll reboot and download the full install, and then setup the config. Be patient - I left mine running for a day or so while it did it's thing. Once the first flash was completed there was no need to leave it plugged into the USB adapter either so i just plugged the 5-24V and GND pins at the other end of the board into power on my garage opener and ignored it for a while while it.
• Once complete you'll be be able to add it via the HK app using the Setup instructions at the developers site as a garage opener. If it doesn't find the device when adding, just leave it longer to finish setup.
• Setup the board as HERE. The only thing you'll have to nut out is the trigger for your particular opener/motor. Mine (Gliderol) has a contact on the board that when looped to ground would start the open/close process - yours might need power instead of grounding or might have a slightly different setup. Most that I've seen have the same principle though. Use the relay outputs from the SV to switch this.
• That should be it

Thanks to the RavenSystem developers of course, and you should be able to find any additional support you need through most of the linked sites (I think there are a couple YouTube vids too). Appears this is a pretty common use case.

Edit to add: cost me about $30 all up and a day on the weekend messing around, mostly because of the crazy amount of free software, support and tooling out there. If it worked for you and you have the means remember to support these developers!

The Ftdi serial converts are like $6 from amazon

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJXZQ7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D.wuEbT2TD1DV

Or like $1 if you can wait for it from over seas

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F283610311245

Otherwise I’d be glad to take it off your hands. Last time I looked the feit bulbs from Costco were not compatible with tasmota. But I’m game to mess around with one if you want to send it to me.

You my friend have experienced the Yellow Light of Death, or YLoD. This is a problem that affects all Fat and Slim models. It is an indication of a general failure, but is most commonly caused by the crappy NEC Tokin capacitors which always eventually fail. You have two options

1: Buy a new ps3. This may sound anticlimactic but it is the easiest option

2: Get it repaired. If you have some knowledge and supplies required, you can open it up, get the error codes, and fix it.

You can also send it off to an actual repair person if you want.

Tips if you repair it yourself: Watch this video: https://youtu.be/ZvqJQVd5pBY If the capacitors failed, replacing them with Tantalum capacitors is your best option You need a computer with windows 10 and a Syson Reader

https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-FT232RL-Converter-Adapter-Breakout/dp/B00IJXZQ7C/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3SQJYY5Z1V3JQ&keywords=FTDI+Programmer+Module&qid=1658482919&sprefix=ftdi+programmer+module%2Caps%2C376&sr=8-3#

Would this one work?

That's a way overcomplicated build for what ya need.

Grab a ttl USB serial board like https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-FT232RL-Converter-Adapter-Breakout/dp/B00IJXZQ7C

Pair it with a premade pi relay board https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Arduino-Opto-Isolate-Microcontrollers-Development/dp/B09G6H7JDT

Wire it up to dc +/- and DTR the other side wire a 3.5mm jack to NO and Com and thats it. Will be a bit noisy as the relay chatters away, replace the relay with an optoisolator like https://www.amazon.com/NOYITO-4-Channel-Optocoupler-Isolation-Photoelectric/dp/B07GMHLL2M

Eletricaly all your doing is bringing the tip of the 3.5mm cw jack to ground (the 3.5mm shield) when you want to key it. Most of the eletonics here is to get you something like looks like a DTR/RTS pin for fldigi to control and keep the computer and radio from being electrically connected (avoiding noise getting into your receiver). If they allready shared a voltage level and ground it would just be pick a gpio to pull low and make the software deal with controlling it.

Reflow is half assed fix.

Finding the cause of ylod with this tool is better. The delid I encourage after fixing ylod.

It looks like you can solder 4 wires onto a $6 USB to serial adapter and be up and running with your home assistant install.

assuming it is, something like this would work?

https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-FT232RL-Converter-Adapter-Breakout/dp/B00IJXZQ7C/ref=psdc_172472_t2_B07784SHF7

if not do you know something that would?

I think those should work, but you’ll need an FTDI adapter like this to flash them and DuPont wires to connect it all up.

This is great if you’re going to use them for other projects. I did this doorbell mod that required it as well.

I prefer to skip the middlemen. All my WLED installs use ESP32s like these because I can reflash them when needed.

I see Amazon has one that has a toggle between 3.3 and 5v. I assume that is ok? Just make sure it is on 3.3V.

https://amazon.com/dp/B00IJXZQ7C/

Easiest way I've found is to get a FTDI USB to TTL chip. I use this one from HiLetgo's Amazon store: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IJXZQ7C

Here are pics of my simple circuit: https://photos.app.goo.gl/cCu9ZXHdb7NgCCbBA

I use platformio instead of arduino IDE, and I don't even have to hold down flash buttons or anything. Literally plug it in and hit the upload button.

I used a ftdi232 usb adapter.... like this

https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-FT232RL-Converter-Adapter-Breakout/dp/B00IJXZQ7C/ref=psdc_3015401011_t1_B00LODGRV8

I believe you can use an arduino, Ive not done it but seen you tube videos on it.

You'll need something like this to program it: https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-FT232RL-Converter-Adapter-Breakout/dp/B00IJXZQ7C/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=arduino+ftdi+breakout+board&qid=1566584360&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Fucking it up is mostly hardware. So there's 4 pins sticking off of the board that you'd bridge with some sort of jumper. Basically, you need the right pinout, and some way of converting TTY to USB.

[Link}(https://community.ubnt.com/t5/EdgeRouter/Edgerouter-X-ER-X-USB-TTL-Serial-Port-Mod/td-p/1662131)

If you look at the pins in that orientation, the second from the left is TX, third is RX, and last one is ground. I used this board, but you could use anything as long as it's TTY to USB, not RS232. The pins on that one are labeled, and it seems to also be the same board the guy in the forum post used. Your console speed is 57600 when you're done.

I am working on a gps project with this exact same GPS module.

I haven't tried to use it with TinyGPS library, but I did get it working using these videos by iforce2d. I can post my code later on tonight if you'd like.

Have you connected your GPS to the Ublox U-Center Software? You can use it to configure the messages the GPS is sending out, and verify it is connecting properly. Use a 3.3v FTDI to TTL adapter to connect the GPS directly to your computer.

Also, I had a hard time using Software Serial with this module. I ended up just using hardware serial (RX-TX, TX-RX), and disconnecting the RX lines of the Arduino when uploading sketches.

I was a bit lazy and used an FTDI board:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IJXZQ7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

• VCC to VCC
• GND to GND and GPIO0
• TX to RX
• RX to TX

you need to get the flash device, $6 on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IJXZQ7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

> USB uart device

I had to look it up which mean no I am not using a UART device.

I understand the USB device i have with the switch i soldered on there to short out the pins is just for updating firmware so I kind of gave up on that for now as I am literally just trying to get the device to be visible and send AT commands to it, so i thought the stock firmware would allow me to accomplish this.

Since I have not seen the device on my computer I have no idea what firmware is on the device itself.

FTDI: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IJXZQ7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The ESP8266-ESP01 I bought from here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MT6T73L/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yes, you do need a ftdi board to use it!

Here's a link to one that can a switch between 5v and 3.3v:

ZPS(TM) 3.3v 5.5v Ft232rl Ftdi Usb to Ttl Serial Adapter Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJXZQ7C/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Kz6vvb000GRNR

Here's a quick start guide for the esp8266:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&ei=AahXVbrtLsSayATT3IHgAg&url=http://rancidbacon.com/files/kiwicon8/ESP8266_WiFi_Module_Quick_Start_Guide_v_1.0.4.pdf&ved=0CB0QFjAA&usg=AFQjCNGkMIRnc2C3uzlIlXCZ1seaiRgXmQ&amp...

Good luck!

Ah! Then you need an FTDI programmer between them.

They’re about $6, less on Banggood or whatever. Since I suspect you’ll want one before March, you can order this one off Amazon, if you’re in the US: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJXZQ7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_s5pGAb7PD65VG

The Pro Mini doesn’t have any USB capabilities. On the other hand, the lack of USB makes them cheaper and, where it matters, lighter. You can use a single programmer for all your Pro Minis.