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Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz.?
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I have a tough time seeing that the XY button is pushed in.
If it isn't, there is a pretty high possibility (maybe 70%) that your problem is just oxidized (tarnished) switch contacts. VERY common for equipment of this vintage. Oxidation can be in this XY button, or on the horizontal time scale switch, or somewhere else.
A nice diagnostic trick is to actuate each of these maybe 50-100 times back and forth to "wipe" the oxidation away and make it work. To play it safe, do this with the power OFF. (You can do this trick with volume controls too, BTW).
A long term solution is to pop the covers off and spray with DeoxIT. It's a bit pricey at $20, but it will it will last you a long time and is the best.
Can you let us know what you found?
First things first -clean the sliders, switches, and knobs with Deoxit.
Don't go crazy tearing this thing apart until you've thoroughly cleaned it. You may be surprised by the results.
Clean all the knobs and switches with Deoxit D5
There is an internal switch called the "record/play" switch which will also need to be cleaned; with the cover off, watch what happens when you set it to record and back again. The long slider switch that gets actuated, here, will need to be cleaned also.
If this doesn't do the trick, then you will need some advanced skills and the schematic to diagnose it further.
I think if you're still having problems a little spray of Deoxit should lubricate the plastic well enough to get it off, and is safe for the contacts. You don't need to get it from amazon most hardware stores carry it. https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU?th=1
There is no reason to assume that just replacing all the capacitors will somehow magically bring this thing to life.
It doesn't sound like you have a proper diagnosis, at all. The right output going out could be any number of things.
The first step is to clean all the knobs and switches with deoxit D5.
If that doesn't change anything, then there are further steps you can take.
Recapping an amplifier just because it sounds like a good idea is a wasteful way to go about things.
Start at the beginning.
I've used this for many years for this sort of thing. I highly recommend it and it only takes a very small amount to clean the pot.
Definitely. The Pro 2 is a great controller, but being able to have that single shift paddle is huge, making the Elite more useful. Turning ABXY into the d-pad at a click has almost become ingrained in how I do things now.
It's just a shame about the QC. I've owned a couple Series 2 and while the problems can vary, the big one you're guaranteed to get are the LB/RB bumpers double clicking.
In order to fix them, you have to pop off the face plate, and spray in some contact cleaner, then clean it up with alcohol. Once you do this it seems to fix the issue, but it definitely needs to be done at some point. https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/
Start with a can of DeOxit and find a video on YT to see how best to use it.
Then, if there’s specific components failing, usually capacitors, you can either teach yourself how to replace them (again from Uni of YT) or find someone local who’s handy with a soldering iron to sort it out. Much cheaper and more satisfying than buying new.
If you want a new amp/receiver for the features then you can always keep the Marantz as a side project.
Could be. That and some tired capacitors are pretty common. Could even be just as simple as dirty controls. I, and many others on here, use and love DeoxIT, works great on scratchy switches and pots.
From what you describe a previous owner did some rewiring of their own and might have done more damage than good, so that pot might be truly damaged.
If you're going to spray the pot make sure you get this and not the stuff that's also a lubricant.
Use This. It can be hard to find locally.
Alcohol or any other type of solvent or cleaner is not recommended.
Try some contact cleaner, specifically Deoxit D5, on your scratchy knob. I use this on any kind of pot from guitar volume knobs, amp knobs, mixer sliders, ext. This stuff is safe and specifically designed for audio electronics. I wouldn't recommend using it on encoders (digital knobs), but those won't make scratchy sounds anyway.
A single can of this stuff will last a long time as it takes very little to clean a pot. You can get killer deals on old gear by haggling down the price because the 'knobs are scratchy and need to be replaced'. Take 15 min to spray the knobs and wiggle them back and forth and it's as good as new.
Here's a link https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
We bought a 2016 Volt for my son last year and the charger cable it came with and the volt charger port were highly oxidized. I got some DeoxIT and some heavy duty cotton swabs and cleaned them out. Now they shine and don't get warm when charging.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
Biggest problem with these amps these days is that the pots /dials and switches get dirty Get a spray called deoxit. https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU And spray them all and really work all the knobs and switches. Alot. Then some more.
I used to have 2 300/4 , 300/2, 500/1. All suffered and it helped.
There's this stuff called Deoxit D5. It might seem like expensive WD-40, but only because it is. It has a specific viscosity to suck itself into the pot and clean it up and lubricate, but it lasts forever. I bought the 5 oz. can about 4 years ago and it's no where near empty.
Isopropyl will probably work but could attack some plastics. I suggest DeoxIT
Interesting. I’ve been having some trouble with one of the buttons on my PiBoy DMG. I replaced all of the silicon pads and buttons, which improved things a lot, but I still need to press slightly harder than the others to get it to register. Do you think some contact cleanser would help? I just ordered this. How much are you supposed to apply.
Have you tried squirting some DeOxIT spray into the pot before going crazy with replacement?
I know this is a joke line, but in all seriousness in my experience restoring old Thrustmaster flight hardware from the gameport days, "60% of the time, it works every time" for inoperative or wonky pots and even buttons.
They have a thicker product that dispenses with an eye dropper that is probably longer lasting according to reviews. Having said that, I've fixed pots two years ago that are still working perfectly with nothing more than a couple of sprays.
I say it is the switch to turn on the lights. These switches are potentiometers that usually fail over time..... some electronic experts that restore old audio receivers say to use deoxit : https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
And that restores the contact to old POT (Potentionmeter) switches....a.k.a variable resistors... a.k.a a piece of wire rubbing on a carbon PCB track....
Not sure if explaining it to a five year old level, so just replace the switch or deoxit....
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You need some Deoxit D5. Use this to clean the record / play switch, and every other knob and switch in the unit.
After that, if it's still not working, we can help you try and come up with the next step.
Try some contact cleaner first. Might just be some oxidization. Spray it on your cable jack and then plug in/out a few times.
Im going to try some of this stuff called DeoxIT spray
I havnt tried it yet. Im unsure if I disassemble the genesis before spraying the slider.
Please do not blow on electronics to clean them. Your breath is humid and can make things worse. Use contact cleaner. These products contain compounds reverse and neutralize the oxidation. My go-to product is detoxIT. Amazon link below.
Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_D8Z3JWV2KB1Z4JQM2XT1
I do minor repairs on equipment I find for cheap or free. A bad contact is the most common issue. Open the deck and find an opening where you can spray the deoxit. Once applied, rotate the knob continuously for one minute. Then let it sit for 2 minutes. Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8QHRVG7TNRKBFKS76TAW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I want to report the exact same issue, but I've only ever used my APMs with my mac and iphone.
I do think I know what the issue is though, I think dust or some other contaminant has made it's way into the ball joint at the top of the earpieces. I spray a tiny bit of contact cleaner in the ball joint on each pod, then work them through the full range of motion. I also hold them upside down so any excess deoxit or particles that might be in there will drip out rather than deeper in.
Every time I do this cleaning process they go back to working perfectly, I can move them around while wearing them just fine. And they've actually gotten better each time and are less sensitive to movement, so I'm almost certain that I just managed to get something down in there that blocks some of the contacts.
Side note, I'm also not sure how many contacts there are that pass through the head band but it is at least charging since there are batteries in both pods and you only charge via one side.
DO NOT USE WD-40! This may lube your fader for a day or so at most but will eventually leave it drier and stickier than before.
I cannot believe a company actually recommends WD-40 for a Dj crossfader. I think it should speak volumes on their knowledge of faders in general and is also probably a good indicator of why this particular company does not exist anymore.
Deoxit is probably your best bet, seeing as how it’s tried and tested as well as easily available. I like to use the spray on a paper towel and then wipe the towel in and around the fader track. You can also do just one quick spurt and that usually does the job but can be a bit more messy.
Same thing with the liquid. You can drop it straight into the fader track but most of it will just end pooling up on the bottom.
>when I turn the top knob up or move the switch to the top position I get an awful static.
These symptoms sound like dirty or bad electronics, rather than static electricity issues, or 60 hz noise.
This isn't something I would expect in a brand new guitar (I guess you didn't really say that it was), but is common in an older guitar--especially a budget instrument.
I have found the product linked below does wonders in cases like yours, but it doesn't do miracles. If your electronics are too far gone, then it might not help. It's difficult to know without trying:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=sr_1_1?
To use that spray you will have to take the pickguard off the guitar, and spray the contacts of the selector switch, and the internals of the tone/volume controls.
If that doesn't work, then you would need to replace these components. I suspect a guitar shop would charge about $20 to clean your electronics (if you don't feel confident that you could do this procedure), but if the electronics are too far gone, they will have to be replaced.
Sounds like a finicky pot. Maybe give it a good douchin’ with a contact cleaner. I’ve had the best luck with this on real guitars and amps.
DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_45ZN11YQ1XA9BABM387X
For £30, sure!
Hilarious retro appeal. This would have been the system of my DREAMS in the 90s.
How will it sound? Probably "fine!" assuming things have not corroded and no capacitors have leaked or whatever inside. Approximately 100 million times better sounding than any portable bluetooth speaker, that's for sure.
A rule of thumb is that all amps sound nearly the same until they're pushed hard. This thing probably doesn't have a super powerful amp inside but that's fine.
Only issue you might run into w/ connecting different speakers is that if the stock speakers are e.g. 8ohm, the amp may not be designed for 6 or 4 ohm speakers. There may or may not be warning stickers and/or warnings about this in the manual, if you can find a copy online.
Of course, the mechanical bits are often an issue with these. The turntable, tape deck, and CD player may have various mechanical issues... or they might work great.
Knobs (no, not that kind of knob) and switches may be gummed up a bit. Usually you can squirt some contact cleaner in there and they're fine.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
Get a can of this stuff. It's a life-saver on modern cars with sensitive electrical connections everywhere. I hit almost every connector and plug with this stuff if I'm digging into it just for the peace of mind that some corrosion removal and protection gives. The D5 stuff has a carrier liquid that evaporates so it's good for flushing out connectors. Would definitely try it before replacing the whole harness if you don't have a clearly diagnosed reason to replace it like physical damage or DMM readings confirming it's shorted or open.
That usually is just dirty controls. Pick up a can of this: DeoxIT.
Works best if you can spray inside of the control pots, but you'll likely notice improvement by just removing the knob and spraying around where it rotates, and working the pot from the minimum to maximum position a handful of times.
At some point, I'd definitely recommend replacing the tired old electrolytic capacitors. Its truly a wonderful piece; there's one for sale locally by me for $900. So your parents did well!
If you get de-oxit deoxidizing contact cleaner and put a little bit on the volume port and turn the dial a BUNCH to move it around, it should fix the issue.
Even if it says it also lubricates? I found this on Amazon and it says it lubricates as well as cleans. FYI I’m genuinely asking, not trying to be a smartass lol.
DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_CvQUFbQRNRSPW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It looks like the trigger is a simple push button switch. Sometimes these get stuck in the closed position which would cause the gun to run constantly. Usually the red cap can be removed, and an electronics part cleaner could be sprayed on the switch. Make sure to unplug the gun from power first. Beyond that, you'd likely need go disassemble the gun and replace the switch.
This is the cleaner I'd recommend:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_TcLPFbM2GG1TF
None of my issues have ever been solved by switching to different cables - neither length nor manufacturer or model (for those that swear by Powerline+)
What HAS worked every single time? Electrical contact cleaner in the phones USB port. Every. Single. Time. Every 6 months or so it needs to be recleaned.
Sounds like dirty pots.. Did you buy the Nektar used? It's obvious you don't want to return it or have Nektar fix it, so..
You can try a can of contact cleaner. The one in the link is very popular with guitarists for removing the crunch from their volume and tone pots. This stuff can potentially mar plastic, depending on the brand.
You'll want to remove the knobs and maybe tape off around the fader slot. Then stick the spray tube in the slot as much as possible - don't force it in there, and don't spray a lot. Move the slider all the way to one end, give a quick spray along the whole thing. Then move it to the other end and spritz it again. Slide the fader back and forth a few times. Repeat for the other faders. It might not get all of the noise out of all of them, but they should be a lot better.
It might last a year, or one or more might get worse again next week, but that can should last a long time, so just do it again. Eventually, either a slider will stop working, or the contact cleaner will stop helping. Hopefully that's a long time in the future.
Having some issues with a Technics SU-V650. Specifically where I’ll have the audio drop either the left or right channels and sometimes both. Through trial and error, I’ve found that the phone selector button is either directly or indirectly tied to the root cause.
I have a Rega P2 for a table with the stock Rega Carbon cartridge which I know is a moving magnet cartridge so I keep the phono selector set to MM. however when the audio drops, if I "toggle" between MC and MM, I can get the audio to come back and it usually stays but out of know where it can happen again.
I've considered taking the reciever to a local repair shop but wanted to see if it's something I could fix at home. I've already taken the back off and hit the pots with some de-oxit and that resolved a separate issue I had with the volume knob/potentiometer being scratchy when changing levels.
Hoping someone has had similar issue, if more information is needed let me know.
Is this it? Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_vuq2Eb1JZEDHE
Fuck sorry I'm on mobile and it keeps opening my stupid Amazon app so I can't copy the URL off the browser... Hopefully you can see it or at least the name.
I have tried cleaning the connections multiple times but never with something like that. I just did a thorough cleaning under the battery and esc, which was pretty dirty. I'm on a ride right now and so far haven't had any issues so I'm hoping that is the problem and I just need to clean it more often... Did any v3 boards have this issue or was it v2 and before? I was thinking about maybe trying to put some sealer around the esc to stop dirt and shit from getting in there as there is definitely a small gap. I just put a new motor in so it's not that. If none of this works I might just have to buy a new esc.
Like I said in my main post I don't really think it is the connectors because I can just power cycle/resync the remote and board without actually disconnecting/reconnecting the contacts and the motor will work again but idk. Thank you for the advice!
I've used WD40 with plenty of success on old locks. With antiques, it is often less about the lube and more about cleaning out all the old gunk.
I would recommend getting over your kitchen sink and giving it a healthy spray, don't worry about using too much. If you have a rake, you can roughly rake in and out to get all the spray worked into the pin stacks. You should also mess with you tension wrench to work the plug a little bit. I would expect to see some dirty discharge from the lock when you do this. If you really want, you can repeat the process a couple of times until there is no more rust/dirt/oxidation coming out.
Recently I've been using DeoxIT D5, and it is quite effective. It is available on Amazon.
Just clean the knobs and switches with Deoxit
Open up the case, spray the product into the working / moving parts of every dial and switch. Work them all back and forth to the limits of their range many many times (like 40 or more).
If this doesn't work (it probably will) then you have an actual problem that we could get closer to.
I would first try getting some electronics cleaner down in there and working the pot around. People seem to love DeoxIT. I'd take it apart down to the board, and go ahead and do every knob, fader, and switch while you're there. Once you get some on the part, work it in by moving the knob/fader or pressing the switch a few times. Before I initiated this repair I figured I'd give cleaning a shot first. Also, I had some knobs that were doing the same thing you're having trouble with. It worked on the knobs but, as some folks on other forums were saying, if you let failing tactile switches go for too long, no amount of cleaner will help. And others were saying that those tactile switches are sealed anyway, so cleaning wouldn't even be a relevant option in the first place. I thought I noticed that, of the switches that were still working intermittently, the cleaning seemed to help. Not 100% though, so, time to get out the soldering iron and see if we can't turn this thing into an offering for the landfill gods!
clean the sliders with Deoxit.
We can be very confident that this will fix the problem with the output level control; hell, it may even clear up whatever ghost is haunting the display.
This same product can be used on all the pots and switches throughout this gear; it is the first step.
Does it sound good? Everything working?
I'd avoid paying a shop for service unless it's actually malfunctioning. A full recap is pretty much always a waste of money, especially if the unit is functioning well.
Most I'd do at this point is open it up and give it a good once-over with some Deoxit on the pots and switches. While it's open you can clean out the interior and inspect for any obviously leaking caps, burnt resistors, or bad solder traces.
But it's exceedingly unlikely that you'll find anything.
angros-official is correct; but i would add that you can use a paintbrush along with the hose attachment to a vacuum cleaner. hold the hose close to where you're working and there all the dust goes.
before spending any real money on this thing, get a can of deoxit and clean all the knobs and switches with it.
something as dirty as this, i would not be surprised if both channels were mucked up just at the pots and switches level.
i'd like to add that this receiver is a beauty and should clean up well. 70 watts per side was a whole hell of a lot in 1976. definitely worth a little time and money.
I used contact cleaner on my ps3 controllers when they ever have buttons that stick, don't work properly, or have that issue where pressing one button somehow presses other buttons. It works everytime. Link to the contact cleaner I use
Have you tried buying contact cleaner spraying your button with it? (mechanical contact cleaner, not eye contacts!)
Alternative, 99% isopropyl alcohol. A high percentage (not 70% meant for sterilization)
Well this info is for whoever you gift the phone too.
With the new Razer announcement, I would get that over the Pixel. (for me, much better front loudspeakers are more important than a step up in camera quality)
For cleaning the switches get Deoxit D5. All of my guitar/amp techs use it and it works wonders. Had a old Peavey amp with no output, sprayed all the pots which resulted in a green liquid streaming out of each one and bam, full functional amp. https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_328_bs_tr_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8EA7PTBRTZ95FHRRG0KN
This worked on mine, but only for a short period of time. I fixed it permanently with DeoxIT. Just take off the back cover (you'll need a tri-wing screwdriver) and spray this stuff into the buttons a few times (work the button a bunch between sprays). I did this a couple weeks ago and they've been working great since.
The potentiometer (the hardware that controls the volume) is a physical switch with varying resistances and they get dusty over time, this makes them scratchy and can reduce sound quality.
You could try an electronics cleaner spray like this or look at the specs on the pot and replace it yourself if you can solder, which may be even be cheaper than that spray.
The recapping varies between amps but people usually change out the largest caps closest to the amp output, I really don't know a ton about it but you could Google the name of your amp and "recapping" and there's probably guides, if not there should be guides for very similar Marantz models.
Did you save the old switches? A spray of some electronic cleaner (deoxit) and cycling then several times might bring the switches back.
Never heard of it, looks interesting. How/where exactly do I use it?
I have never had one of these, but have worked on many two and three head Nakamichi decks of the era...
Definitely could be that the control motor is stuck in a "dead spot", this is very commonly the issue with Nakamichi of this era
Here is the service manual - all you need is a free login to the site in order to access the downloads.
Basically there is a reel motor, a capstan motor, and a third motor that moves the internal leaf spring switches into their various positions to set the operating mode.
When these decks are stored for a long time, that control motor gets stuck.
So a little spray of DeOxit D5 into the internals of the motor, followed by rapidly jogging the motor between play / pause / record / stop &c. will most likely knock it loose and get it running smoothly again.
99% of the time, this is what has gone wrong with mid-late 80s Nakamichi gear.
Other than that - the belts seem to hold up very well over time. But the idler tires can need looking after in some cases.
Good Luck - you made a hell of a score.
use a spritz of deoxit. do not use wd-40.
a small amount of bee's wax in the right place will probably fix it as well.
It's literally just dust, oxidation, etc. inside the part.
Your volume slider is a form of potentiometer. These work by having a sort of wire (straight or curved) which another piece slides against as you adjust it. The signal flows through the point where they make contact, so if they don't make good contact, it acts flaky.
One thing that might help move it back and forth a whole bunch of times. Sometimes this will clean it enough to get it working again.
A more effective solution is to get some electrical contact cleaner and spray it into the slider, then move it back and forth a few times to spread it around.
There are a lot of brands. Personally I like DeoxIT D5. Amazon also has CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner, which I haven't used, but it gets good reviews and is cheaper. (And both products' reviews have several mentions of people using them to fix noisy volume controls.)
If you need a recommendation for contact cleaner. I used to play with Italian cars which always had electrical issues, and the stuff I used is Deoxit:
Lots of people use something called Stabilant 22, which is very pricey. From what I’ve read, the Deoxit I linked to above works just as well.
use deoxit in the jacks of your pedals DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_A1F9FbSEQRCP0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
First thing to try is DeOxit contact cleaner.
Also, don’t worry too much about opening it up. Make sure it’s unplugged and don’t lick any capacitors.
OK, that piece around the headlight socket is just stamped steel and it’s easy to strip out that hole, that it would be difficult for you to mount the ground wire. So just be careful when you are tightening it.
You need some of this, wear rubber gloves and safety glasses or a face mask especially if you wear regular glasses because this will mess up the coding on the lenses. DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_EYG63YHGK8SN6VES4J92
Find the black battery cable to where it goes to the frame and disconnect it from there, then you can work on anything on the bike without the risk of sparking anything. When you’re all done removing disconnecting and cleaning the connectors that you feel comfortable doing and putting everything back together, then where the ground wire attaches to the frame sand that down real good and make sure it’s a very good connection and spray it with the cleaner and put it back on there nice and tight.
Find your fuse box while you have the battery disconnected and remove the fuses one at a time and spray everything with this cleaner and put them back. Also find the main fuse which is usually separate from the fuse box, it’s a bigger fuse like a 30 or 40 amp, clean those connections as well.
Upon your handlebar think I saw another post where you were talking about the three position switch, you can usually take the controls off your handlebars and spray some of this cleaner inside and run the switch back-and-forth a bunch of times and that will help clean it up.
Having a loose ground connection could in theory have blown your new headlight bulb but I can’t be sure. Remove the bulb and look down inside the socket and see if those contacts are burnt up and maybe you can clean them with some of that spray cleaner as well, same thing with the back of the lightbulb make sure that that’s nice and clean.
You mention battery connectors having some residue on them, while you have your ground wire disconnected go ahead and disconnect the battery and clean everything up with a wire brush and spray it with the cleaner and put it back together.
Get Deoxit D5. It's amazing on pots and connectors, just a bit of spray and it's like new. I agree on replacing the nut, I'm about to do it myself on my new SE custom 24-08.
Deoxit is a good one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU
This stuff is supposed to be pretty good for getting corroded ports working again.
Don't use WD40. Get a can of Deoxit. Amazon has it. Deoxit Contact Cleaner Spray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_s0sVwbFPS1K2Y AudioKarma has a write-up on using that stuff. Very easy and helps a lot.
There are tiny slots in the EQ sliders where you would spray the contact cleaner order Deoxit D5 on Amazon. Use the link below to learn how to use it to clean the volume control.
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/the-idiots-guide-to-using-deoxit-revisited.207005/
Try a can of spray electrical contact cleaner. Like this: Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AiazFbNKSE6W2
DeoxIt
Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_z8LeFbJ3TD24W
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
Or any brand of contact cleaner
A vintage receiver, especially one that has sat unused for some time, will usually get build-up that interferes with the controls and reduces sound quality. It can often be attributed to dirty pententiometers (aka as "pots") and switches. The receiver controls should be cleaned with a quality electronics cleaner and then followed with a lubricant. While it isn't a cure-all, it works in a large percentage of the cases I have done it.
Audiokarma.org cleaning guide for your receiver:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=207005
I recommend Deoxit electronics cleaner followed by Deoxit fader lube. If you can't get that, then CRC QD Contact Cleaner (BLUE can NOT red can) and their lube work well. For reference:
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-F5S-H6-CAIG-DeoxIT-Faderlube/dp/B00006LVF1
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-02130-6/202262505
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-2-26-5-oz-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-02004/100398344
Oddly, for such a basic maintenance necessity, there aren't that many good cleaning videos, but this one for a guitar amp has good shots of where you need to get at the pots when cleaning them. You shouldn't need to use that much fluid when cleaning though.
A vintage receiver, especially one that has sat unused for some time, will usually get built-up that interferes with the controls and reduces sound quality. It can often be attributed to dirty pententiometers (aka as "pots") and switches. The receiver controls should be cleaned with a quality electronics cleaner and then followed with a lubricant. While it isn't a cure-all, it works in a large percentage of the cases I have done it.
Audiokarma.org cleaning guide for your receiver:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=207005
I recommend Deoxit electronics cleaner followed by Deoxit fader lube. If you can't get that, then CRC QD Contact Cleaner (BLUE can NOT red can) and their lube work well. For reference:
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-F5S-H6-CAIG-DeoxIT-Faderlube/dp/B00006LVF1
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-02130-6/202262505
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-2-26-5-oz-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-02004/100398344
Oddly, for such a basic maintenance necessity, there aren't that many good cleaning videos, but this one for a guitar amp has good shots of where you need to get at the pots when cleaning them. You shouldn't need to use that much fluid when cleaning though.
While it could be a grounding issue or even a deeper electronics issue (like a bad capacitor or transistor), when you describe it clearing up by wiggling a switch or tapping the amplifier, it sounds very much like dirty or corroded connections. If that is the problem, it can be resolved by cleaning the connections with a quality electronics cleaner. While it isn't a cure-all, it works in a large percentage of the cases I have done it.
Audiokarma.org cleaning guide:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=207005
In the US, I recommend Deoxit electronics cleaner followed by Deoxit fader lube. If you can't get that, then CRC QD Contact Cleaner (blue can NOT the red can) and their lube work well. For reference:
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-F5S-H6-CAIG-DeoxIT-Faderlube/dp/B00006LVF1
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-02130-6/202262505
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-2-26-5-oz-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-02004/100398344
with some DeoxIT and an old toothbrush there's a good chance it will come back to life
Just spray Deoxit in there. No joke, that stuff is magic for improving contact connections like that.
This is the stuff you want: https://smile.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
Don't.
If the internals are dusty, just dust them. I'd prefer a vacuum / paintbrush over compressed air.
If you'd like to clean the controls, use Deoxit
You don’t need to take the knobs off for that. Contact cleaner needs to get into the contact point for the wafer and wiper of the pot. If you want to clean them, I would suggest you get a spray bottle of deoxit D5. Take the pickguard off and look at the back of the pots, you’ll want to spray a very small amount into the mechanism for the pot, then work it back and forth. A very small amount goes a long way, you don’t want to flood the pot with solvent just get a little bit in there.
A 70s fender P bass will have either a closed back metal shaft or a nylon shaft with an open back like the one I linked above (from my 78 P bass). The spray needs to go in the area of the solder lugs as in the diagram here.
This is common and quite simple - the volume knob potentiometer is dirty and needs to be cleaned with a good quality contact cleaner like Deoxit D5.
I used to use this stuff. Always worked great
Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_BMAKFT88QJK44K1FR3EN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Same thing I recommended to the Salami guy -- Deoxit d5 ;-)
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
If you went the "take it apart and clean" route, would Deoxit D5 work? https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
You can get a can of spray contact cleaner at a hardware store or online (here is an example: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1DU0FPD6PHX42&keywords=contact+cleaner+electronic+spray&qid=1643031191&sprefix=contact+cleaner+electronic+spray%2Caps%2C118&sr=8-1)
Remove the metal plate around the knobs and spray the cleaner inside the knobs, roll them a few time; there is a good chance it will fix your problem.
The most common is D5
https://smile.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
Give the volume control a shot of this and your problems may go away!
Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz.
by Amazon.com
Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_HH0WDKQTJN0H2CXBAWVP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is what you want Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_1ZYCQWW9BXK09TYB92G5
DeOxIt 5 has been known to work wonders (and thus the high price):
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=asc_df_B00006LVEU/?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-7guedH2AzY
Looking at your pics, the components seem to be of a decent--if not superior--grade, and I would expect that they have some life left in them.
It definitely sounds like you have worse problems than just dirty pots and switches - but you won't be able to tell what those problems are if it's still dirty and oxidized.
Deoxit D5 is the first step, every time.
I use this to clean scratchy potentiometers. Open the product enclosure and spray into the potentiometer.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
Deoxit:
Tubemongers have been out of stock for months on the socket savers, but you can order from their OEM directly: https://pulsetubestore.com/collections/socket-savers-adaptors
This is the correct answer. Spray this into the base of the sticks: https://smile.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/
WD40 also make a contact cleaner which I have used successfully (do NOT use regular WD40). Great stuff to have around, I even fixed the push-button ignition on my Honda with it and saved $80 on a replacement part.
I can't stress enough to you how much the three following items will improve your life, if you don't already have them:
And if you haven't seen them before, look up glue filled, heat-shrink crimp connectors, like the ones Ancor makes. They are a bit more work to put on, but the heat shrink and glue make them SO much more secure than simple nylon crimp terminals, and they're corrosion-proof to boot.
I think I read that WD-40 now have a range of electronic contact cleaners. - but definitely DO NOT use the original stuff that's for easing rusted bolts. ;-)
If you can find it look for something like this....
And this..
It is probably caused by the potentiometers (volume, tone, balance controls).
Get some De-Oxit D5 in the spray can, pull the knobs off, and spray inside the controls, then work them back and forth a bunch of times and let sit for a few mins, then turn it on and try it out.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/the-idiots-guide-to-using-deoxit-revisited.207005/
Note -- there are other products which can work as well as de-oxit but it helps to have a go-to product to recommend in these situations (e.g. recommending Windex to wash windows).
Agreed. DEoxIT D5 spray is the best I've used, so far, and I've been using it for many years on all of my jacks, plugs (guitar cables, all audio jacks, etc.) . I just bought this new casn after using the last one for probably ten years. It seems epensive, on the outset, but it lasts seemingly forever, and does a great job of protecting your audio connections/electrical contacts from future corrosion, as well.
Every electropnic musician should won a can of this stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_0A0FZMNQ9QJ25AY9BA42
You can clean the pot by spraying into the shaft or a hole in the casing with Deoxit. You might be able to find it cheaper in store if you can find a local electronics shop
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
Try Deoxit. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_XVNRSA2GY0DPHGRFXEVB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Could be corrosion on the jack (that the headphones plug into).
Deal link: Amazon
So I realized I have some safety concerns before decapping anything on the board.
- It's been a few days since I've powered on the unit. Is it safe to desolder and take a cap off the board?
- Do I have to first discharge the capacitors in-circuit (that I'm going to remove)? If so, what is the best way to do this? What tools do I need? I've read a screwdriver, but is it a special screwdriver? What about pliers?
- I plan to do a more thorough IPA wash of the board because I fear that the first time I did it wasn't good enough and inadvertendly created conductivity in the wrong places (hence losing sound, button responsiveness, and no longer passing the self-test). Any tips or videos you can recommend for the best way to do this? I've also read using a blow dryer on the board after an IPA wash?
Also, what's your take on spraying some Deoxit (something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/) all over the front and back of the board after an IPA wash?
My first thought is that the contacts in the RAM socket could be slightly dirty or oxidized. Essentially removing the RAM and reinserting it cleans those contacts just enough that a reliable connection is restored and the system returns to working.
Kind of like pulling and then reinserting an NES cartridge back in the day.
You could try a product like this to clean the contacts on your RAM and see if it doesn't make a difference. https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
To my mind the other thing to try would be swapping out the RAM itself and see if that makes the problem goes away. Bad RAM can make the system do some pretty oddball things.
Recalibrate then spry deoxit the potentiometers if that doesn't work https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU
deoxit d5. otherwise known as contact cleaner. you take off the knob, spray it at the base of the shaft, then you repeatedly turn the shaft both ways to min/max of the pot. do this for a while, basically the solution goes inside and as you keep turning it around, it spreads the solution and it in turn finds the dirt/dust and eliminates it. you will have to turn it a bunch for a while. wait a minute or so, then fire up, listen, keep turning, it will eventually go away.
​
this kind of thing can help ?
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
depends on if you are cleaning or replacing if you are just cleaning it just spray the potentiometer with some quality contact cleaner +fader lube (I use Deoxit expensive but it works good )
​
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/r
https://www.amazon.com/DeoxITFaderLube-Liquid-squeeze-tube-solution/dp/B003D8G83O
sometimes you can just spray it with the cleaner and thats enough but i highly recommend a drop of the lube it goes a long way
edit the pot looks like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tr9dqlwfeb0
replacing it is possible but as shown in the video is not fun
/u/canalguyopen is right.
I use this on all my electronics and I highly recommend it.
I put this on everything. Its amazing. Get some!
One way I find stuff like that is to search for the model of the thing I have, and the word "teardown." A teardown usually means dissassembling something to learn about it. Another search term that sometimes works is "repair." A good teardown video or photo gallery will show you where fasteners & clips are, as well as the location and type of the internal switches.
Almost all remotes that I've taken apart use what are called membrane switches. Membrane switches (in this case,) consist a pattern of contacts on the printed circuit board, and a rubber/silicons top sheet. The top sheet is printed on the top -- it's what you see of the buttons. On the bottom of the rubber sheet are round circles of a black (usually) conductive material. When you press down on the button, that black circle presses against the contacts on the circuit board.
You can clean the copper contacts and black conductive disks by rubbing lightly with a pencil eraser. A better way is to use a proper electronics contact cleaner, like Caig DeoxIT. Don't go crazy scrubbing the contacts -- they're quite thin. There are other, cheaper contact cleaner sprays. Some work fine, but often leave behind a lubricant film that traps dust and other gunk from your fingers. (Like WD-40; it's notorious for attracting & trapping stuff. That's bad for electrical contacts (and other things.))
Let's start very very simple-but time consuming here. You'll need some sandpaper, spray contact cleaner (there's a brand called DeOxit that gets thrown around a lot but any really will do fine) , di-electric grease, and terminal end cleaners. Also include small pliers and picks for the really stubborn connectors as well as basic sockets to remove fasteners holding down grounds, connectors, or other components making it hard to reach electrical connectors. And compressed air if so desired.
Start by disconnecting & removing the battery-we want it OUT of the way so that there is absolutely no chance of creating any accidental shorts while cleaning. Take pictures with a cell phone or label connectors before unplugging.
Then starting on the side of the engine bay at the PCM/TCM (ECU) unplug the connectors, and look for what are commonly called "the green crusties" which can be green, blue, white, etc. Clean both them and the pins on the PCM if any corrosion is found starting with the electrical contact cleaner and then the terminal end cleaners. It may help to remove the PCM from the engine bay for better access. Use both of these until the connectors and the pins on the PCM side are free of any corrosion. Once they're nice and clean or if no corrosion was found to begin with pack the pin areas with a thin layer of di-electric grease and plug the connectors back in.
Then move onto the largest and most visible fuse box-remove the fasteners and unplug the connectors. If any corrosion is found remove the fuse box cover and take a picture before removing every fuse, relay, mega-fuse, etc. You will be cleaning both the connectors, the connection points on the bottom of the fuse box, and every spot where fuses, relays, etc go into the top of the box. Repeat this for any secondary fuse boxes, relay boxes, etc in the engine compartment. Again before you plug the connectors in the bottom of it pack the pin areas with a layer of di-electric grease
Now look for any ground wires starting with the one coming off of your battery. Remove the fastener holding the eyelet and use the sandpaper to clean the eyelet, the fastener, and the part of the body it mounts to clean shiny metal. Continue with locating and cleaning the grounds one by one, reinstalling them as they are cleaned.
Finally put everything back together (including the battery) and start and drive the vehicle to see if the codes return. If they do repeat this process with the direct connections to the named components: ABS control unit, oxygen sensor(s), etc
Pull the board and power supply to clean them from all of the rust particles. Spray the board with IPA (isopropyl 71% or higher) and clean it a tooth brush.
Use vinegar and a wire brush to remove the rust from the metal chasse. Use a spray paint for car engine blocks to paint the chasse. Auto engine paints can withstand high temperatures. *Don't use rustoleum, vaspar, or other non engine spray paints.
You can also buy a spray can of Dexoit to clean and lubricate the console fan. It will clean out dirt debri and lubricate thus making the fan run quieter.
Replace the clock capacitor and you'll have a nicely refurbished Xbox (just clock cap at botttom link).
https://console5.com/store/microsoft-xbox-original-cap-kit.html
Your answer is de-oxit, not sure why no one else is linking this stuff.
Deoxit contact cleaner may help.
first step is Deoxit. Take the case off and clean all the pots and switches.
My CSL Elite throttle also started getting jittery/spikey after a year of use. I got some some DeoxIT D5 and that completely fixed it. Also picked up some ‘reel butter’ for the gears, seems like a good safe lubricant for plastic and was pretty cheap.
A touch-less sensor would be ideal but the potentiometer should be better shrouded or sealed. It's fairly exposed but at least it's easy access to service.
With loadcell I prefer them over the t3pa pros as well
I would choose the Pioneer SX-850 and the Pioneer PL-500. Not sure the exact problems with your receiver(s) but many problems can be resolved with a thorough cleaning.
Possibly corrosion / build up on the volume or other pots. Cleaning them usually resolves the problem 85% of the time. If not time to dig deeper into the electronics.
Copy/paste reply I gave from another thread with a similar issue:
A vintage receiver, especially one that has sat unused for some time, will usually get built-up that interferes with the controls and reduces sound quality. It can often be attributed to dirty pententiometers (aka as "pots") and switches. The receiver controls should be cleaned with a quality electronics cleaner and then followed with a lubricant. While it isn't a cure-all, it works in a large percentage of the cases I have done it.
Audiokarma.org cleaning guide for your receiver:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=207005
I recommend Deoxit electronics cleaner followed by Deoxit fader lube. If you can't get that, then CRC QD Contact Cleaner (BLUE can NOT red can) and their lube work well. For reference:
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-F5S-H6-CAIG-DeoxIT-Faderlube/dp/B00006LVF1
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-02130-6/202262505
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-2-26-5-oz-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-02004/100398344
Oddly, for such a basic maintenance necessity, there aren't that many good cleaning videos, but this one for a guitar amp has good shots of where you need to get at the pots when cleaning them. You shouldn't need to use that much fluid when cleaning though.
Have you tried buying contact cleaner spraying your button with it? (mechanical contact cleaner, not eye contacts!)
What about some DeoxIT Contact Cleaner?
For the crackly jacks, a contact cleaner should work -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/
A vintage receiver, especially one that has sat unused for some time, will usually get built-up that interferes with the controls and reduces sound quality. It can often be attributed to dirty pententiometers (aka as "pots") and switches. The receiver controls should be cleaned with a quality electronics cleaner and then followed with a lubricant. While it isn't a cure-all, it works in a large percentage of the cases I have done it.
Audiokarma.org cleaning guide for your receiver:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=207005
I recommend Deoxit electronics cleaner followed by Deoxit fader lube. If you can't get that, then CRC QD Contact Cleaner (BLUE can NOT red can) and their lube work well. For reference:
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-F5S-H6-CAIG-DeoxIT-Faderlube/dp/B00006LVF1
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-02130-6/202262505
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-2-26-5-oz-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-02004/100398344
Oddly, for such a basic maintenance necessity, there aren't that many good cleaning videos, but this one for a guitar amp has good shots of where you need to get at the pots when cleaning them. You shouldn't need to use that much fluid when cleaning though.
Isopropyl helps, I'd get some of this stuff too. It's great for exactly what you need.
Get some Caig DeOxit and hose out the contacts. This may solve the problem.
I think you're going to struggle to find an exact replacement for those pots. I've searched for replacements before and came up empty. This forum post has some good disassembly pics. If you haven't already, try some Caig Deoxit. I use it to keep my G27 pedals reading smoothly.
> excess oil
I surely hope you just used the wrong word. It should be 100% solvent, which evaporates without a trace. Is it this?
I was thinking more electronics than auto when I recommended contact cleaner, like this.
>if i crank up the volume knob up to -16dB (halfway through), the speakers start working almost immediately. Once they do, I can turn down the volume and they all keep working until I switch off the amp.
Sounds even more like a contact issue.
>sprayed some Gulf contact cleaner on the speaker contacts on the outside and the inside.
BUT: I never meant the contacts to the speakers. They are usually fine. Spray that shit INTO the volume knob like you would do if you oil a hinge, while moving the volume knob from 0% to 100% and back several times. That's where the problems are.
While you are at it, have a go at the other switches and knobs, doesn't hurt.
Don't worry, you won't damage your amp.
A vintage receiver, especially one that has sat unused for some time, will usually get built-up that interferes with the controls and reduces sound quality. It can often be attributed to dirty pententiometers (aka as "pots") and switches. The receiver controls should be cleaned with a quality electronics cleaner and then followed with a lubricant. While it isn't a cure-all, it works in a large percentage of the cases I have done it.
Audiokarma.org cleaning guide for your receiver:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=207005
I recommend Deoxit electronics cleaner followed by Deoxit fader lube. If you can't get that, then CRC QD Contact Cleaner (BLUE can NOT red can) and their lube work well. For reference:
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-F5S-H6-CAIG-DeoxIT-Faderlube/dp/B00006LVF1
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-02130-6/202262505
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-2-26-5-oz-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-02004/100398344
Oddly, for such a basic maintenance necessity, there aren't that many good cleaning videos, but this one for a guitar amp has good shots of where you need to get at the pots when cleaning them. You shouldn't need to use that much fluid when cleaning though.
Contact cleaner is your friend. It's amazing the number of problems that can be fixed with a can.
Replacing the pot is also a good idea.
You can use the WD-40 electrical cleaner. I recommend Deoxit electronics cleaner followed by Deoxit fader lube (Also sold under the "Hosa" label). If you can't get that, then CRC QD Contact Cleaner (blue can NOT red can) and their lube work well. The CRC lubricant can also be used in place of sewing machine oil. I fixed up an SL-D2 a couple months ago. Definitely a table that's worth the effort.
For reference:
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-F5S-H6-CAIG-DeoxIT-Faderlube/dp/B00006LVF1
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-02130-6/202262505
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-2-26-5-oz-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-02004/100398344
Clean the surfaces, make sure the connections are tight. Many of the connectors in the harness corrode inside. I use http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/ and wire brush and cotton swabs to clean the those connectors.
You're welcome. So, I take it there is no cartridge on your turntable at this point? Are you missing the headshell as well?
Yes, turntableneedles is a legit site. They've been around for quite awhile. The kit you linked to would be good for someone new to vinyl and turntable setup. But, Audio Technica cart it comes with is a very, very basic cart. It is a variant of the ATN3600, which is the budget cart OEM's use on their turntables to save money in manufacturing.
I would recommend stepping up to a decent entry-level cart like the Audio Technica AT95E. You should ask them if they offer their kit with the AT95E. You should also ask them if the cart is pre-aligned for a CEC curved tonearm. You could also purchase the AT95E and a headshell from them or elsewhere. But, you will need to align the cart after you receive it.
After you get the new belt and headshell/cart combo, you will need to setup your tonearm. The videos below show how to do that. Your anti-skate setting will be different. Your table should have a hanging weight held on by a filament (like fishing line) or a L-shaped bar anti-skate system.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jizk-3JGzag
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kc5u2jahbL4
Audiokarma.org cleaning guide for your receiver:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=207005
In the US, I recommend Deoxit electronics cleaner followed by Deoxit fader lube. If you can't get that, then CRC QD Contact Cleaner (blue can NOT red can) and their lube work well. For reference:
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-F5S-H6-CAIG-DeoxIT-Faderlube/dp/B00006LVF1
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-02130-6/202262505
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-2-26-5-oz-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-02004/100398344
Oddly, for such a basic maintenance necessity, there aren't that many good cleaning videos, but this one for a guitar amp has good shots of where you need to get at the pots when cleaning them. You shouldn't need to use that much fluid when cleaning fluid though.
In order to find out what type of stylus you need, I need a shot of the underside of the headshell. Attached to the underside of the headshell is the cartridge, and attached to that is the stylus. Even better would be to get the stylus off and get some shots of that. Typically that stylus will come off by pulling out and slightly down.
The scratchy sound when adjusting the volume is the control pententiometer (aka as "pot") being dirty. It should be cleaned with a quality electronics cleaner and then followed with a lubricant. From an earlier reply to a similar problem:
Audiokarma.org cleaning guide for your receiver:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=207005
I recommend Deoxit electronics cleaner followed by Deoxit fader lube. If you can't get that, then CRC QD Contact Cleaner (blue can NOT red can) and their lube work well. For reference:
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-F5S-H6-CAIG-DeoxIT-Faderlube/dp/B00006LVF1
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-02130-6/202262505
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-2-26-5-oz-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-02004/100398344
Oddly, for such a basic maintenance necessity, there aren't that many good cleaning videos, but this one for a guitar amp has good shots of where you need to get at the pots when cleaning them. You shouldn't need to use that much fluid when cleaning fluid though.
Deoxit electronics cleaner followed by Deoxit fader lube. If you can't get that, then CRC QD Contact Cleaner (BLUE can NOT red can) and their lube work well. For reference:
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-F5S-H6-CAIG-DeoxIT-Faderlube/dp/B00006LVF1
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-02130-6/202262505
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-2-26-5-oz-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-02004/100398344
Oddly, for such a basic maintenance necessity, there aren't that many good cleaning videos, but this one for a guitar amp has good shots of where you need to get at the pots when cleaning them. You shouldn't need to use that much fluid when cleaning fluid though.
Audiokarma.org cleaning guide:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=207005
In the US, I recommend Deoxit electronics cleaner followed by Deoxit fader lube. If you can't get that, then CRC QD Contact Cleaner (blue can NOT the red can) and their lube work well. For reference:
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-F5S-H6-CAIG-DeoxIT-Faderlube/dp/B00006LVF1
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-02130-6/202262505
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-2-26-5-oz-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-02004/100398344
I have found that a thorough cleaning with proper electronics cleaner can work wonders with a unit that wasn't properly outputting sound. While it isn't a cure-all, it works in a large percentage of the cases I have done it.
Audiokarma.org cleaning guide:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=207005
In the US, I recommend Deoxit electronics cleaner followed by Deoxit fader lube. If you can't get that, then CRC QD Contact Cleaner (blue can NOT red can) and their lube work well. For reference:
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-F5S-H6-CAIG-DeoxIT-Faderlube/dp/B00006LVF1
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-02130-6/202262505
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-2-26-5-oz-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-02004/100398344
In the US, Deoxit electronics cleaner followed by Deoxit fader lube. If you can't get that, then CRC QD Contact Cleaner (blue can NOT red can) and their lube work well. For reference:
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-F5S-H6-CAIG-DeoxIT-Faderlube/dp/B00006LVF1
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-02130-6/202262505
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-2-26-5-oz-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-02004/100398344
I have found that a thorough cleaning with proper electronics cleaner can work wonders with a unit that wasn't properly outputting sound. While it isn't a cure-all, it works in a large percentage of the cases I have done it.
Audiokarma.org cleaning guide:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=207005
In the US, I recommend Deoxit electronics cleaner followed by Deoxit fader lube. If you can't get that, then CRC QD Contact Cleaner (blue can NOT red can) and their lube work well. For reference:
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-F5S-H6-CAIG-DeoxIT-Faderlube/dp/B00006LVF1
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-02130-6/202262505
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-2-26-5-oz-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-02004/100398344
I have found that a thorough cleaning with proper electronics cleaner can work wonders with a unit that wasn't properly outputting sound. While it isn't a cure-all, it works in a large percentage of the cases I have done it.
Audiokarma.org cleaning guide:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=207005
In the US, I recommend Deoxit electronics cleaner followed by Deoxit fader lube. If you can't get that, then CRC QD Contact Cleaner (blue can NOT red can) and their lube work well. For reference:
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-F5S-H6-CAIG-DeoxIT-Faderlube/dp/B00006LVF1
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-02130-6/202262505
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-2-26-5-oz-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-02004/100398344
mimimumrockandroll was being very staid and kind, but I'm going to get more dire:
DO NOT USE WD-40!
WD-40 is a solvent, not a lubricant. It has it's place, but your turntable is not it.
As mimimumrockandroll said, caigs DeOxit is the best choice for cleaning buttons, switches, pots and controls of electronics. After cleaning, follow with Caigs Faderlube. You can also use CRC QD Electronic Cleaner and lube products. I find Caigs to work better, but CRC stuff is good as well. For lubing mechanics, you can use white lithium grease. Links for reference:
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-F5S-H6-CAIG-DeoxIT-Faderlube/dp/B00006LVF1
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-02130-6/202262505
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-2-26-5-oz-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-02004/100398344
The problem could be one of two fairly easy to fix issues. It may be dirty adjustment knobs/switches or the belt may be worn out. The solution is to clean the knobs/switches and/or replace the belt.
To clean the knobs/switches you will need a quality electronics cleaner such as Caigs DeOxit or CRC QD Electronics cleaner. I find Caigs to work better, but CRC products are good as well. After cleaning, you should lube the connection with Caigs Deoxit Fader Lube or CRC Lubricant. Links for reference:
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-F5S-H6-CAIG-DeoxIT-Faderlube/dp/B00006LVF1
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-02130-6/202262505
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-2-26-5-oz-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-02004/100398344
The first step is to clean the pitch adjustment pots. I do not have a Technics SL-23, but the pitch adjustment knobs on many tables can be removed by pulling up on them. Once removed you should be able to see the actual mechanics of the pot. Spray a couple shots of cleaner into the pot and let it soak in for a few seconds. Then twist the pot through the full rotation, from far left to far right. Do this several dozen times. Repeat for the second pot. After you do that, spray a shot of lubricant into each one and work the pot several more dozen times. Let it sit for a couple of minutes and then plug it in and try it out. If it solves your speed problem then you've found your solution.
The adjustment lever may be an electrical switch or may be a mechanical level. If it's the former, it might just need to be cleaned as above. If it's the later, it may have grease that has solidified with time and needs to be cleaned off and relubed with white lithium grease. In order to do that you will probably need to open the turntable up from the bottom and disassemble the selector mechanism to clean it.
If cleaning the pots and/or lever doesn't solve your problem, then it may be the belt has worn out. Replacement belts can be ordered and are easy to replace.
If none of that solves your problem, then the issue is probably more serious. It could be the spindle and bearing need to be cleaned and relubed. It could be that some of the capacitors in the electrical section have gone out of spec and need to be replaced. It could be the belt pulley motor is dying.
What you will need to decide is how much energy and effort you want to put into this table. If you are handy and enjoy fixing things, this might be a fun project. If you don't find that kind of thing appealing, it may be best to return the table and try to find one in better condition, or something new.
See vinylengine.com for the user and service manuals:
Yes, the most likely culprit is dirty contact(s) from some of the knobs and switches. Read this guide and use one of the electronic cleaners and lube combos linked below (assuming you're in the US):
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=207005
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-F5S-H6-CAIG-DeoxIT-Faderlube/dp/B00006LVF1
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-02130-6/202262505
http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-2-26-5-oz-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-02004/100398344
Chemistry causes it. Imagine a brand new shiny penny vs. one that's several years old. Oxygen (and moisture) in the air combines with metal and tarnishes it. The same thing happens inside your volume control, which is why it can't make good contact anymore. They try to build electronic parts to prevent this, but it doesn't always work.
Luckily, this is a common problem, so there are products to fix it. A favorite of a lot of people is CAIG DeoxIT D5. You could try getting some of that (maybe through amazon), spraying it into the control pod around the volume control, and seeing if that makes a difference. The plastic volume knob should come off (based on photos here), so I'd pull that off before spraying, then spray directly into the gap around the metal shaft.
Maybe try some Deoxit.
Don’t use isopropyl to clean electrical connections (cartridges, etc). Get a can of CAIG DEOXIT D-5 - it’s a little expensive but it is pure gold when it comes to electronics repair. Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i4FXDbVRZDT0S
Generally all you really need is the the standard Deoxit Red, some pipe cleaners (the bendy kind) and maybe some q-tips.
http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/
If you don't have amazon prime or don't want to order $35 of stuff, and if you have a Guitar Center or similar near you, they probably carry a the same can there.
That amount in the can will last a very long time. A little goes a long way with Deoxit. The pipe cleaners are for cleaning out any RCA jacks and the q-tips are for soaking up any excess cleaner that may drip onto something you don't want it to.
You could also get a can of Deoxit Fader Lube OR Gold Lube to lube the pots and switches after cleaning, but it's not strictly necessary. The standard can of Deoxit does have some oils in it for lubricating. The Fader Lube or Gold Lube seem to be longer lasting.
To give you an idea of where you are trying to shoot the fluid into here's a picture of a pot:
http://www.antiqueradio.org/art/CleaningCarbonPot.jpg
See the pencil in the pic? Don't shoot it there. See the little hole in the metal housing beneath pencil? Shoot it into that hole. It may not look exactly like that, but close. Basically an opening in the pot.
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