{"product":{"product_id":"B06XHXJG31","title":"32 Blades Steel Feeler Gauge Dual Marked Metric and Imperial Measuring Tool","price":"6.99","image_url":"https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51IFwvfrrwL._SL500_.jpg","url":"https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHXJG31"},"comments":[{"body":"FYI all, these are called [feeler gauges](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHXJG31/). Machinists and car mechanics use them all the time, they come in thicknesses down to like .0015” (made of metal, obviously). 3D printing one is an interesting idea though, especially since it gives you an idea of what your particular printer will do given the settings you printed this at.","subreddit_name":"functionalprint","author":"tekym"},{"body":"Yea it shouldn't touch at all. I can't tell from this photo but I'm going to bet the bed isn't perfectly level....and it NEEDS to be for this print \r\n\r\nMake sure you don't use the same paper over and over for the leveling. Level it loose. \r\n\r\nDid the test print have elephant foot? Cause that answers the situation\r\n\r\nI had an issue with pimples mid print which was a temp issue with the filament \r\n\r\nThis print is critical for perfect everything, it's annoying but a great challenge. \r\n\r\n\r\nSide tip: 8$ on amazon get a gap gauge it's a literal life changer [amazon link ](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06XHXJG31/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_B8G9D9VX04XMS88D1PKK)","subreddit_name":"FixMyPrint","author":"volatileutopia"},{"body":"You can't. [Feeler gauges are cheap.](https://www.amazon.com/Hotop-Blades-Feeler-Imperial-Measuring/dp/B06XHXJG31/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1\u0026amp;keywords=feeler+gauge+set+metric\u0026amp;qid=1604936097\u0026amp;sprefix=feeler+gauge+set+metr\u0026amp;sr=8-3) If you don't set your valve clearance correctly you can have a lot of performance issues and/or fuck up your motor.","subreddit_name":"scooters","author":"fullrunsilviaks"},{"body":"https://www.amazon.com/Hotop-Blades-Feeler-Imperial-Measuring/dp/B06XHXJG31/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=feeler+gauge\u0026amp;qid=1671477556\u0026amp;sr=8-1-spons\u0026amp;psc=1\u0026amp;smid=A2LQDNP99UBG7W\u0026amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExSzdUWkNaTVNaM0tIJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzYwNjI4M1VKM1lBTFRLVUVaSSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjg5MjI2MzdDN1FRQzJPVEhPMSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl\r\n\r\nThat's what I use. You can find the same thing at pretty much any auto store or tool store near you also if you need it today. \r\nIf you go to the about section of this sub you'll see the frequent asked questions and wiki with pretty much everything you'll need to know about mp5s","subreddit_name":"MP5","author":"YoDontBeThatGuy"},{"body":"I like to use a feeler gauge \r\n\r\nhttps://www.amazon.com/Hotop-Blades-Feeler-Imperial-Measuring/dp/B06XHXJG31/ref=asc_df_B06XHXJG31/?tag=hyprod-20\u0026amp;linkCode=df0\u0026amp;hvadid=241967215627\u0026amp;hvpos=\u0026amp;hvnetw=g\u0026amp;hvrand=1326352661310127251\u0026amp;hvpone=\u0026amp;hvptwo=\u0026amp;hvqmt=\u0026amp;hvdev=m\u0026amp;hvdvcmdl=\u0026amp;hvlocint=\u0026amp;hvlocphy=9015721\u0026amp;hvtargid=pla-361662223857\u0026amp;psc=1","subreddit_name":"longrange","author":"SleezyD944"},{"body":"I recommend you invest in a set of feeler gauges. [Something like these.](https://www.amazon.com/Hotop-Blades-Feeler-Imperial-Measuring/dp/B06XHXJG31/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=feeler+gauge+set\u0026amp;qid=1669127308\u0026amp;sprefix=feeler+gaug%2Caps%2C98\u0026amp;sr=8-3)\r\n\r\nThey make a world of difference during bed leveling. Having a solid, repeatable tool that you can use over and over is very helpful.\r\n\r\nI have identified the thickness that gives me the best results for my first layer and I just pull it out every time I want to do a bed level. Nozzle height is dead on every time.","subreddit_name":"FixMyPrint","author":"LaserRanger_McStebb"},{"body":"And a set of feeler gauges [like these!](https://www.amazon.com/Hotop-Blades-Feeler-Imperial-Measuring/dp/B06XHXJG31/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=1YXM22349D043\u0026amp;keywords=feeler+gauge+set\u0026amp;qid=1668384572\u0026amp;sprefix=feeler%2Caps%2C130\u0026amp;sr=8-1-spons\u0026amp;sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm\u0026amp;psc=1)","subreddit_name":"3Dprinting","author":"flashpointblack"},{"body":"You should either have spark, or not. Meaning that if it will fire at all, let's assume that your spark is OK. \r\n\r\nIf you have a compression tester, what does that show, for compression? If you don't, my next step would likely be to remove the valve cover, and check the valve clearances, compared to whatever the specs are for this engine (Briggs \u0026amp; Stratton model 123456, something like that, not just Porter Cable 8hp, for instance). You will need a set of flat feeler gauges to check/set clearances (one example https://www.amazon.com/Hotop-Blades-Feeler-Imperial-Measuring/dp/B06XHXJG31 )","subreddit_name":"smallengines","author":"RedOctobyr"},{"body":"Agreed on checking the valves. But I'd say it's the clearances being too-large (like 0.010\") rather than too small (like 0.002\") that would defeat the compression release, and make the cord hard to pull. But regardless, OP, check the valve clearances. You will need a set of flat feeler gauges, ~$5 at an auto parts store, or available from Amazon. One example: https://www.amazon.com/Hotop-Blades-Feeler-Imperial-Measuring/dp/B06XHXJG31","subreddit_name":"smallengines","author":"RedOctobyr"},{"body":"Paper is very inconsistent, at least for me it was. Some are too thick, some are too thin. A feeler gauge is a thin piece of metal that will always be the perfect thickness. You can get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hotop-Blades-Feeler-Imperial-Measuring/dp/B06XHXJG31 and tram your bed using this, setting the z offset also.","subreddit_name":"ender3","author":"ElProempie"},{"body":"I think every guitar play should learn how to set up their own guitar(s).  You're going to need to keep re-doing it anyway.  $20-40 seems pretty cheap unless you're not including any fretwork.  I'm curious though why you think filing the nut is something one wouldn't be able to do.  If it's because nut files are expensive, get a set of [these](https://www.amazon.com/Hotop-Blades-Feeler-Imperial-Measuring/dp/B06XHXJG31/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1L8GH1EVMRP5F\u0026amp;keywords=spark+plug+feeler+gauge\u0026amp;qid=1665433454\u0026amp;qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjY3IiwicXNhIjoiMy45OSIsInFzcCI6IjMuNzcifQ%3D%3D\u0026amp;sprefix=%2Caps%2C63\u0026amp;sr=8-1-spons\u0026amp;psc=1\u0026amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExTVJWMDdFVklKN1Y5JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTQ0Mjg2MVdSWlZGMDBMQzVYVSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjE5ODI2MThJRFdPQ09FUEZRViZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=) and file notches in them to turn them into little saws. Spending time learning to do this stuff I find pretty valuable, but it takes some practice.  But learning to do it, along with fretwork, will allow you to make almost anything feel really nice and be very playable.","subreddit_name":"guitars","author":"heavySeals"},{"body":"Since you mentioned using a sheet of paper to help level your bed, then adjusting it during the first layer, I was wondering if /u/WallPaperRuse would be willing to test something for me? I have an Ender 6 and I noticed something peculiar about 6 months ago, and I'm wondering if its built into marlin itself or just something creality added into the firmware themselves.\r\n\r\nSo, I find that if I level the nozzle directly to the bed with ZERO gap, measure with BLtouch, then start the print, the printer will be offset by my layer height, therefore giving me a perfect level without actually having to fool with depth gauges/piece of paper/etc. Just to restate this, when I level my bed, I eyeball it and raise my bed with the leveling knobs until the nozzle TOUCHES the bed.\r\n\r\nI first noticed this because when I'd level the bed with [feeler gauges](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XHXJG31/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8\u0026amp;psc=1) until it's ABSOLUTELY perfect, then when I started the print it'd always be way too high off the bed, and I'd have to adjust the z-offset during the first layer as you said. Then I realized I was always changing the z-offset by about 0.1 to about 0.12, and I was like \"wait...isn't that my layer height?\" So then I tried my method and I started getting perfect first layers almost every time.\r\n\r\nJust wondering if anyone else found this to be the case for them? It kind of goes against the common procedure for leveling the bed and took me a while to figure out.","subreddit_name":"FixMyPrint","author":"tstngtstngdontfuckme"},{"body":"Might be because your bed isn't level.\r\n\r\nI use a [metal gage](https://smile.amazon.com/Hotop-Blades-Feeler-Imperial-Measuring/dp/B06XHXJG31/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1NU6UXJWJ86HT\u0026amp;keywords=metal+gauge+kit+for+3d+printing\u0026amp;qid=1657476194\u0026amp;sprefix=metal+gage+kit+for+3d+printin%2Caps%2C63\u0026amp;sr=8-3) to level mine.","subreddit_name":"3Dprinting","author":"HippieSmiles84"},{"body":"https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHXJG31/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_GM8A7287XGW2ZK0VKZKK\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\nThis helped me alot. I believe its more accurate than paper, since the paper can get squished if that makes sense. And its able to go thinner that paper or card stock so it gives it an extra way to ensure its close but not too close. Also everything is relied on your initial layer thickness too, the lower the number, the better the adhesion i find. Just some simple tips, good luck!","subreddit_name":"ender3","author":"ZenithBilliard413"},{"body":"Looks like your z offset has not been set correctly, causing your nozzle to be too far above the build plate, then too far above your model, so when the filament comes out it isn't squished down but instead it kinda flops around like a hot plastic noodle.  \r\n\r\nYou need to set you z offset every time you do a bed leveling. On the q5 i find myself needing to do a bed leveling quite often since the printer is really light and easy to knock around by accident - not really the printer's fault tbh. \r\n\r\nI would ***highly*** recommend getting a set of feeler gauges to do this. They are super cheap from Harbor Freight, or [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Hotop-Blades-Feeler-Imperial-Measuring/dp/B06XHXJG31), or an auto parts store or hardware store, they're really easy to find and they are really cheap but absolutely invaluable. \r\n\r\nI find the ideal gauge to use (for the q5 in particular) is 0.15mm and to set the z offset low enough so you are juuuuust feeling resistance on the feeler gauge when you move it around under the nozzle; not so much that you cannot move the feeler gauge though. \r\n\r\nI have seen people say to just use a piece of paper as a feeler but ugh that is just stupid when feeler gauges are SO cheap","subreddit_name":"FLSUNDelta","author":"amicloud"}]}