What is Reddit's opinion of HTRC LiPo Charger 2S-3S Balance Battery Charger 7.4-11.1V RC B3AC Pro Compact Charger(White)?

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I do not just last night the new charger was delivered and I love it. Was just raving to my wife about it. It charges both cells fully rather than the USB which only charges one cell partially and another fully.

Heres the one I highly recommend

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073WSDCZM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_TFEBC7XE9TN2VCB0JFXB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You're safe to use the basic charger till you get the better one of course id just get the better charger for better results.

There is another thread that I just answered with a very similar issue, but the exact same thing happened to me. Played with it on Christmas morning and afterwards used the included USB charger to let it charge up. It would only move a little bit, but the wheels would turn and the LEDs would light. I did some research and came to the conclusion that the stock charger is a piece of crap and I bought this replacement. After getting that it charged right up and I've been using it reliably ever since.

This is a widespread issue, so I would bank on it being a shitty charger and not a blown motor.

Hey, I got the Jeep for Christmas and the exact same thing happened to me. Once the 'factory' charge wore off I wasn't able to get it to work with the included charger. All it would do is light the LEDs and turn the wheels. Sometimes it would poorly attempt to move forward. I did a bunch of research and apparently the stock charger is hot garbage and doesn't work, just Google it. I ended up buying this charger from Amazon and it has been perfect. It just sucks having to wait a couple of days to play with your new toy!

I have one of these its great for the small 2s lipos

HTRC LiPo Charger 2S-3S Balance Battery Charger 7.4-11.1V RC B3AC Pro Compact Charger(White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073WSDCZM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SG75APXYR8770MNDHMW5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

As a cheapo charger I have one of these and love it:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073WSDCZM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_zdq1FbS0CD25X

Make sure and get one with the correct plug for your country, but search B3AC and you'll find one. It charges at 1 amp, which is IMO more reasonable for a smaller battery.

I also have multiple computer balance chargers. It does not hurt to have a good computer balance charger. Then you can charge big and small packs safely.

If you have a current limiting power supply (maybe you have an electrical engineering friend who does), you can charge each cell to 4.2 volts manually. It can’t be understated though how much of a fire hazard lipo batteries are, so if you aren’t comfortable with the idea or know what you’re doing, don’t do it.

You can also get a cheap 2s lipo charger like this that will charge through the balance leads on the battery. It won’t be fast, but it’ll get the job done. https://www.amazon.com/HTRC-Battery-Balancer-Charger-7-4-11-1V/dp/B073WSDCZM/ref=sxin_13_ac_m_pm?ac_md=1-0-VW5kZXIgJDI1-ac_d_pm&cv_ct_cx=2s+battery+charger&dchild=1&keywords=2s+battery+charger&pd_rd_i=B073WSDCZM&pd_rd_r=127258c...

Cheapest is what you already have in your shack, your yard sale pile, or whatever device you have laying around that you can borrow for a while. You may have a 12V 1A power supply laying around and not realize it. Check last year's internet router. I would also consider a $17 or $25 DC buck/boost adjustable power supply board, combined with two $2 DC filter modules to make a power supply that you can run off any DC power source from 5-30V including USB power banks, car battery while engine is running or stopped, jump starter pack, RC airplane/drone battery, power tool battery, bare solar panel without battery (don't shade it), or laptop power supply, or a common 12V 5A (or even 15A) laptop style power supply (which can also run it direct if built for 12V). If you spend $40 instead of $17/25, you can get an ISDT Q6 nano LCD RC battery balance charger (LiPo, AGM, NiMh, etc.) with power supply mode with 10-30V DC in and 1-30V DC output; add a $10 power supply.

I would build the QDX in the 12V not the 9V configuration. This changes how you wind one of the coils. Hams tend to have far more sources of 12V or 13.8V (see notes below about dropping 13.8V) than 9V and far more uses for it. If you built it in 9V, add a linear LDO voltage regulator (LM294

Some 12V power sources you might already have or consider acquiring: * 3S Lipo Drone battery. $20 for 2200mAH, $40 for 5AH. With a $10 dedicated 3S charger or better yet an LCD balance charger (described below).
* Car jump starter box. AGM or LiPo.
* 12V 8H AGM battery and some means to charge it. 9AH is the same size. Most computer UPS run on one of these (or 2 in series for 24V on the larger models) except the power strip style. Be sure to get one with F2 terminals (0.25" Faston) not the F1 terminals (0.187" Faston). That dead battery UPS you find at the thrift store for a few bucks makes a handy AGM battery charger and also a battery box. Add Anderson Powerpoles in ARES/RACEs standard configuration with a fuse so you can connect to the battery. Note there are some 8AH/9AH AGMs with nut and bolt terminals used for jump starters, these would be ok to but probably cost as much as the 18AH ones normally used in jump starters.
* 12V power tool battery (LiOn or NiMH) with a $10 adapter to leads (or 3D print one). A 20V battery would require a buck converter and lots of filtering. * Your car battery. Don't run it down or you will need a jump start. Do it while the engine is NOT running (charging voltage will be too high). * There are lots of 12V 5A laptop style chargers out there for things like peltier cooler operated soda/beer cooler, wine coolers, dehumidifiers, etc. as well as for LED power strips, massagers, etc. These are switching power supplies that aren't designed for radio work so you may need to add chokes and or filters. Example. Does not have to have the same size barrel plug. Cut whatever connector it is on off and install Anderson Powerpole and wire your QDX for powerpoles.
* Hamfest 12V/13.8V 3-5A power supply. There are lots of 12V CB power supplies at hamfests that are too anemic to run a mobile radio and go cheap. Example * Internet router power supply. Some of these are 12V 1A or 12V 1.5A. You need about 0.7A for the QDX. It is unusually power efficient since it doesn't need to worry about.
* Whatever 12V 1A DC regulated wall wart power supply you have laying around or find at thrift store. Check it with a meter first. Some charge 12V batteries and may output a bit more * An OLD linear 12V 1A regulated wall wart. Lower noise. You will recognize it because it is much bigger than the modern switching one. * full size ham radio power supply. 13.8V 30A. Not cheap. Unless you already have one. But can be a good investment in future. Try to get one that does not have the negative lead tied to AC ground or that you can easily modify to repair this design flaw (ground should be connected on the radio side of the negative wire, not at the power supply end so the voltage drop on the negative wire, which can be considerable when running a 100W HF transmitter, doesn't try to find alternate routes to ground through your computer); at the low power this transmitter is drawing, you don't need to worry much about that yet. SS-30DV SS-30DM * Surplus computer server hot swap power supply. Some of these are pretty clean, RF wise. You will need a fan if it isn't built in. Long and awkward. * Old. Desktop computer power supply. You have to short two pins to turn the 12V (and most of the other pins) on. * The internal phttps://www.amazon.com/HTRC-Battery-Balancer-Charger-7-4-11-1V/dp/B073WSDCZMower supply on whatever piece of crap consumer electronics you have laying around: DVD player, cable tv box. Some of those have 12V at 1A. * Any old bench power supply. You already have one for your bench or you need one. $30 Example. Make sure you don't bump the voltage knob too high! * Bench power supply kit or DIY * LED strip power supply. some run on 12V. * A 20W solar panel with a voltage regulator. * The cheap USB car chargers you see at the dollar store for $1.25 often contain a (knockoff) MC34063 switching power supply controller. In the typical configuration it requires 1.5V difference between input and output. These can be modified to output 12V by changing one resistor and probably upgrading the output filter capacitor from a 6.3V to a 15V one. You will want to filter the input and output. * you can get USB C PD trigger boards that will cause USB C PD (power delivery) AC chargers, car chargers, or battery banks (usually recognized because they have an AC plug on the charger end not just on the phone/laptop end) to output the voltage of your choice (5V/9V/12V/15V/20V). There are others that work with QC chargers instead.
* Buck converter boards on ebay/amazon/etc. These are often optimistically rated. * [$17 In DC5-30V, out DC 0.5-30V 3A (4A short term) 35W panel mount buck/boost power supply module](https://smile.amazon.com/Converter-Regulator-Adjustable-Regulated-Laboratory/dp/B0978T3JKH or the $25 5A version. Use these to adapt your old USB power bank, car battery while engine running, laptop power supply, or other DC power sources capable of at least 10W. * $16 Boost buck converter DC 5.5-30V to 0.5-30V 4A https://smile.amazon.com/DROK-5-5-30V-Adjustable-Regulator-Converter/dp/B07VNDGFT6 * [$28 uctronix 6-30V in 0-36V out 6A buck/boost(https://www.uctronics.com/uc-new-arrivals/uctronics-dc-6-30v-to-0-36v-6a-variable-voltage-power-supply-9v-12v-24v-36v-constant-voltage-current-stabilized-regulator-module,.html) - out of stock * USB adjustable power supply board, 4-13V in, 0.5-30V out https://smile.amazon.com/PEMENOL-Adjustable-Supply-Voltage-Converter/dp/B07V5FPNNZ * $2+shipping DC power filter board If running from 13.8V, you might want to insert a couple dropping diode (1N4007 or 1N5408) in series so you are legal QRP and aren't overheating the power amplifier stage. You may also be able to adjust your software to put out slightly less audio (and less RF power). A small board based on an LM2941 low dropout regulator with heatsink, capacitors, etc. would be a good way to drop the voltage. And as long as you have enough heat sink, it won't care if you are charging a battery while using it. * laptop style Adjustable power supplies Example $19 3V-24V 1.5A Example $22 with more tips and twice the power

If you are running any power supply that wasn't designed for ham radio use, expect that you may need to clean up the noise. Start with multiple turns of the wire around a ferrite core. You could even try some large metal washers; sure there will be eddy currents turning the RF current into heat but you don't want the RF anyway. Filter the input side and the output side.

One of the advantages of the QDX is that it is highly portable.

OVP http://www.ad5x.com/images/Articles/Vprotect.pdf https://www.awarc.org/power-supply-protection/ https://www.tindie.com/products/9h1lo/crowbar-protection-for-ham-transceivers-kit/

Honestly pretty much anything works. You can get anything from a cheapo simple balance charger: https://www.amazon.com/HTRC-Battery-Balancer-Charger-7-4-11-1V/dp/B073WSDCZM/ref=sxin_14_ac_d_mf_br?ac_md=1-0-SFRSQw%3D%3D-ac_d_mf_br_br&crid=EUZ521OE6R7E&cv_ct_cx=lipo+charger&keywords=lipo+charger&pd_rd_i=B073WSDCZM&pd_rd_r=8f8cad9c-ac60-44b6-8e7b-f9d305856a28&pd_rd_w=KK6AY&pd_rd_wg=GdDGi&pf_rd_p=af56c395-f6ae-4741-98f7-37d0cc7c93ab&pf_rd_r=VD7V8ZVQ12MXZXNTT19S&psc=1&qid=1646320417&sprefix=lipo+charge%2Caps%2C108&sr=1-1-ed8a42d3-65f1-4884-a3a2-0dd6e83b6876

To a more advanced charger that will let you discharge batteries for storage or try to revive them if they become too discharged for the cheaper chargers: https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Balance-Charger-Discharger-Connectors/dp/B00466PKE0/ref=sr_1_5?crid=EUZ521OE6R7E&keywords=lipo+charger&qid=1646320477&sprefix=lipo+charge%2Caps%2C108&sr=8-5

But realistically you don't need to be very picky at all about your charger. If you want to be the "safest" I'd pick something like the second one I linked that has 3200 amazon ratings and will have absolutely everything you'd ever need for any charging purpose, whether you stick with your scx24's or find yourself with a 6s ARRMA monster of some sort lol

Super duper cheap: https://www.amazon.com/HTRC-Battery-Balancer-Charger-7-4-11-1V/dp/B073WSDCZM/ref=sxin_15_ac_d_mf_br?ac_md=2-1-SFRSQw%3D%3D-ac_d_mf_br_br&crid=L8IE0JYFIVCM&cv_ct_cx=lipo+charger&keywords=lipo+charger&pd_rd_i=B073WSDCZM&pd_rd_r=05870276-c1c1-475c-965b-24d60dabc057&pd_rd_w=doiuJ&pd_rd_wg=AtrFF&pf_rd_p=17756b3a-4504-468b-830d-8b5875afd168&pf_rd_r=HYYMPNQ96T3807R0H2VM&psc=1&qid=1643293422&sprefix=lipo+charge%2Caps%2C101&sr=1-2-ed8a42d3-65f1-4884-a3a2-0dd6e83b6876

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A more expensive, "premium" option: https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Balance-Discharger-Battery-Display/dp/B084VPQQPJ/ref=sr_1_6?crid=L8IE0JYFIVCM&keywords=lipo+charger&qid=1643293486&sprefix=lipo+charge%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-6

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The super cheap one will be fine for 2s and 3s batteries for your scx24 probably. The "premium" option will be better if you think one day you'll end up with a bigger 1/10+ size truck that might use big 3s or even up to 6s batteries.

But really, just pick any of them that say that they can charge a 3s lipo battery. Tons of options and they all do the same thing.

These tiny LIPO batteries charge only through the balance plug, the bigger of the 2 plugs on the battery. You'll have to use the El Cheapo usb charger that came with it, or pick up another charger. These ones are inexpensive and work well, https://www.amazon.com/HTRC-Battery-Balancer-Charger-7-4-11-1V/dp/B073WSDCZM

This is the other one I bought. I can charge 3 different batteries at the same time. https://www.amazon.com/Airsoft-Batteries-Chargers-Charging-Helicopter/dp/B087G3WHDJ

I was looking at this HTRC LiPo Charger. I am not too sure if it is compatible with what BetaFPV is using. I just noticed that my battery doesn't have the XT30 lead, I only have the balance one, is that normal lol

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073WSDCZM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t.bmFb6X3D9Y7 Would this work?

Is this garbage? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073WSDCZM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_os6iFb0P1KVSK

There are lots of these cheap chargers that charge through the balance port alone https://www.amazon.com/HTRC-Battery-Balancer-Charger-7-4-11-1V/dp/B073WSDCZM/