What is Reddit's opinion of Straight Blade Devices, Receptacles, Flush Receptacle, Industrial Grade, 3-Pole 4-Wire Grounding, 50A 125/250V, 14-50R, Black, Single Pack?

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Does the conduit run continuously from the garage back to the main service panel?

Or is the conduit only within the garage area and the remaining section open space (e.g. basement ceiling) back to the main service panel?

If you have continuous conduit with a minimum size of 3/4-inch my guidance is to pull 6AWG THHN/THWN-2 conductors to the garage. This is a heavier gauge wire than what your gen2 Volt can take advantage of, but it provides significant future-proof for only nominally higher material costs and zero extra labor. Namely, it would allow you to go all the way up to a 60A circuit (48A continuous charging), which is currently the highest that EV manufacturers are shipping (e.g. Tesla, 11.5kw).

If you're not planning on taking your EVSE on a road trip (perhaps taking a smaller charge cord instead) then I might suggest a direct-wire EVSE for the garage. The reason for this is that it takes one fewer wire (hot-hot-ground), which reduces costs a bit depending on the distance to the main service panel. Since you have conduit, it's trivial for you or a future homeowner to pull that extra wire if repurposing the outlet.

If you want to keep things more portable then install a NEMA 14-50 receptacle and include that extra wire (hot-hot-neutral-ground) now, along with matching plug on the EVSE. My guidance is to use an industrial receptacle, such as this Hubbell HBL9450A, rather than the budget consumer grade that electrician carries in the truck. High amperage continuous charging is worth the extra quality in my opinion.

Your electrician should understand all the above, but feel free to reach out with any questions.

I would suggest getting a dedicated 14-50 plug for your car if you can.

Do you already have the amp requirement (50amp breaker) on the 6-50 plug? if you do, unless you use if for your dryer or something similar, just change the plug! get this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IPBMUKY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and someone to install it

Well as a person that has installed 4 of these. I would for sure call someone if you have no idea what you are doing. It will kill you if you fuck up and touch something. I am no electrician. Also make sure you don't have a shit outlet. They make cheap ones vs really good ones. I have installed these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IPBMUKY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are more money $$$ but they are not shit. They are like the ones they use at the RV places. So they are good with the unplug and replug a lot of times.

>The gold standard of outlets is the Hubbell

Cheaper on Amazon. I had an electrician swap out my cheapo Leviton for this. The Hubbell is visibly way more robust

Congrats on the RAV4 Prime!

It's a good idea to future-proof things a bit with the NEMA 14-50 circuit even though the RAV4 Prime can only take advantage of 14A (20A circuit) with the base 3.3kW charger and 27.5A (35A circuit) with the optional 6.6kW charger.

If you go with the full NEMA-14-50 and 50A circuit, my guidance is to install an industrial receptacle, such as the Hubbell HBL9450A, rather than the budget consumer version electricians carry in the truck. High voltage, high amperage, multi-hour charge times... not a place to use budget materials.

Happy to answer any questions you may have after meeting with the electrician. Just let me know.

I'm not overly familiar with this EV, but it appears the 2020 model has a 7.2kW onboard charger, whereas the previous models were 6.6kW.

2020 = [7.2kW x 1,000W = 7700W / 240V = 30A x 1.25 NEC continuous load = 37.5A = 40A (next NEC standard circuit breaker size).

pre-2020 = 6.6kW x 1,000W = 6600W / 240V = 27.5A x 1.25 NEC continuous load = 34.375A = 35A (next NEC standard circuit breaker size).

So those are the minimum circuit sizes which, when matched with appropriate EVSE, will support maximum charge speed for the Ioniq.

General guidance is to install a full 50A circuit (paired with a "40A" EVSE) to allow for a bit of future-proofing, provided your main service panel and budget allow. NEMA 14-50 receptacle is the most prevalent choice for a plug-in EVSE. You can save a bit of money using a hard-wired model (the wire run is a bit less money because one fewer conductor is needed) at the expense of portability.

My guidance is to install a commercial quality NEMA 14-50, due to the high voltage, high amperage, continuous load when charging an EV. Use a minimum of 6AWG copper wire as well.

My setup is below, but not everyone needs (or wants) to invest to this extent. My goal was the ability to simultaneously charge two EVs at ~50A each.

I'm happy to answer any electrical questions you may have on your particular setup. The key aspect is the Nissan Leaf accepts a max rate of 6.6kW, which requires a minimum of a 35A circuit to achieve that. You can certainly go lower than that if your service panel can't support that, or if your driving needs don't require much to recharge.

(6.6kW x 1000 = 6600W / 240V = 27.5A x 1.25 continuous charge = 34.375A = 35A)

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My setup:

• 100A circuit breaker in main service panel
• 1AWG SER Aluminum service cable (3@1AWG hot-hot-neutral, 1@3AWG ground)
• Siemens 12/24 subpanel (separate ground rail required)
• 1-foot conduit
• 6AWG THHN/THWN-2 copper (hot-hot-neutral-ground)
• Hubbell NEMA 14-50 commercial receptacle

While you can do that, I might share some additional thoughts:

• The EVSE link you provided will charge at a rate of only 16A, which is one-half the capability of your Clarity (and nearly all new cars). From a cost/labor perspective, I wouldn't bother pulling a new 20A circuit if the goal is to support EVs.
• Plugging and unplugging your EVSE daily (I'm assuming you'd have to do this so nobody steals it from the common parking lot) will put a lot of wear and tear on the NEMA 14-50R, so be sure to use a commercial receptacle ($75), not one of those cheap ones ($8) at the local big box store.
• For a wall-mount EVSE, a new, dedicated circuit is effectively the same material and labor cost no matter what attaches at the end of it, whether a ChargePoint device vs NEMA 14-50 all weather receptacle. If there is a pedestal or dual charger solution then, yes, there is more consideration for a concrete pad, etc. (And the ChargePoint requires a cellular control module, but that provides a huge benefit if the desire is a managed charging solution.)

Of course, every garage and parking lot is different, so many of us can only speculate as to what is best for your particular case.

Well, a lot of advice but no details to help determine if you're code compliant and able to do a quality installation. So...

• Conductor (wire) sizes
  • Ground: Per NEC Table 250.122, a copper ground conductor for a 50A circuit is a minimum of 10AWG (21A-60A).
  • Hot-Hot-Neutral: Per NEC Table 310.15(B)(16), THHN insulated conductors have an ampacity determined by the 90C column. An 8AWG copper conductor is rated ampacity of 55A (90C).
    • HOWEVER, the circuit ampacity must be de-rated to the lowest of that of the end-to-end components (service panel, circuit breaker, conductor, receptacle). As these other components are commonly rated at only 75C, the conductor must be de-rated to 75C ampacity as well.
    • 8AWG copper THHN conductor is rated 50A (75C), which meets exactly our desired circuit ampacity.
    • NOTE: This is the minimum conductor, you can elect to install a larger gauge (e.g. 6AWG) if desired.
    • NOTE-2: Several comments have suggested that 6AWG is required in this particular installation, but that isn't the case due to the conductor insulation used. If the OP were using NM-B conductor, rather than THHN, then we'd be restricted to the 60C column, per NEC ampacity tables. 8AWG copper NM-B has an ampacity of only 40A (60C), which is insufficient for our 50A installation. Therefore, 6AWG NM-B copper would be required as it has an ampacity of 55A (60C).
• Conduit
  • A basic conduit fill calculator will help determine whether you've exceeded the 40% fill rating based on your conduit material and diameter.
    • 1x - THHN 10AWG [stranded] (ground)
    • 3x - THHN 8AWG [stranded] (hot-hot-neutral)
    • Schedule 40 PVC
    • 1/2-inch diameter = 44.71 (exceeded!)
    • 3/4-inch diameter = 25.07%
    • NOTE: This is the minimum diameter, you can elect to install a larger diameter (e.g. 1-inch), especially if you have several turns to navigate.
    • NOTE-2: If OP elects to use 6AWG THHN copper for all four conductors (hot-hot-neutral-ground) the 3/4-inch Sch40 PVC fill = 38.37%. I'd suggest stepping up to 1-inch in that case.
• Receptacle
  • My guidance is to install an industrial NEMA 14-50, such as Hubbell HBL9450A, rather than the consumer version found at the local big box stores. The pricing difference reflects the quality difference in my opinion.
  • Get the matching faceplate, as the receptacle has a 1-1/2 diameter hole which is slightly larger than those found at the local big box store.

I installed a 14-50 on a 50 amp circuit about a month ago…used this plug from Hubbell and it’s working great. Adin about 10% charge per hour to my 2020 SV+.

Hubbell 14-50 plug

Your situation is precisely why I'm an advocate for suggesting EV owners try to get L2/240V charging ability at any amperage, as it is so much faster than what L1/120V provides and can meet most long term charging needs.

That said, I'd not hesitate at all to step up to a NEMA 14-50 circuit if my main service panel was only 6-feet away!

As long as the panel can handle that increase in amperage and has two spots available for the circuit breakers (you could always swap out the 20A circuit breakers and leave that 6-20 receptacle disconnected if needed).

Big box store pricing for 6AWG NM-B wiring is only $2.61/foot. Note that I would source an industrial NEMA 14-50 like this one (and matching faceplate because the hole is slightly larger than standard) instead of using the consumer-grade one at the big box stores. The quality is that much better and it will have a lot of power going through it for several hours each charge cycle. You're talking ~$100 in materials for a high-quality installation, plus whatever labor is in your specific location.

Note that through the end of 2020 there is a federal tax credit of 30%, up to $1000, to help defray the costs of installing your electric charging circuit. That would include materials, labor, permits, EVSE, etc. See IRS Form 8911 for details. Always check for state/local/utility credits and rebates as well.

Straight Blade Devices, Receptacles, Flush Receptacle, Industrial Grade, 3-Pole 4-Wire Grounding, 50A 125/250V, 14-50R, Black, Single Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IPBMUKY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8muvFbK4VKJTB

• Warm = Okay
• Piping Hot = Unplug charger, Turn off circuit breaker, call electrician.

What amperage circuit breaker is installed?

How many amps did the car say it was pulling while charging?

If you're using a full 50A circuit and a NEMA 14-50 outlet, my guidance is to use only a commercial quality receptacle and not the budget consumer one the electrician carries in the truck. Hubbell 9450A is a good choice and be sure to get the 2-1/2 inch faceplate with it because that hole size is not easily found at the big box stores.

If the electrician is providing flat-rate labor and materials my guidance is to run 6/3 AWG copper and install a NEMA 14-50 receptacle.

I'm also partial to using an industrial Hubbell (https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-Wiring-Systems-HBL9450A-Specification/dp/B00IPBMUKY/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=hubbell+14-50&qid=1595202122&sr=8-1) NEMA 14-50 receptacle instead of the consumer-grade one the electrician carries in the truck. Get the matching 2-1/2-inch faceplate that goes with it.

Which ChargePoint model were you planning to purchase?

The consumer grade NEMA 14-50 receptacles found at the local big box store aren't designed to handle lots of plugging/unplugging, so for safety sake, I'd avoid that in a rental situation.

My guidance would be to install a hardwired EVSE (50A circuit, 40A output), which will work with all vehicles (Tesla w/ included J1772 adapter).

If you decide to go with a NEMA 14-50 receptacle, please consider an industrial quality version, such as this Hubbell HBL9450A. As the hole size is slightly larger than standard, purchase this matching faceplate.

Skip the budget EVSEs found on Amazon and get one that is UL/cUL (or international equiv) rated. ChargePoint and ClipperCreek are often mentioned. Grizzl-e out of Canada has been mentioned quite a bit recently.

With that limited commute, you'll be able to get by on L1 charging for as long as you wish. I did that myself for 3 months, but there were a couple of times I ventured well beyond my normal commute and I couldn't get the battery topped up overnight. That is what led me to step up to the L2 circuit.

I'm assuming your 2019 Leaf came with the factory provided L2/L1 EVSE which means you don't have to purchase one. For L2 it will require a NEMA 14-50 receptacle and a minimum of 35A dedicated circuit. The recommendation here is to have the electrician install a 50A circuit for future-proofing. The labor cost is likely the same and the material cost should be only minimally higher.

Every house/garage is different but general guidance on the electrical:

• 6/3 AWG copper wire
• Hubbell 9450A industrial grade NEMA 14-50 receptacle (purchase on Amazon, along with their suggested faceplate, and hand it to the electrician for installation.)
• City permit and inspection
• 50A double-pole circuit breaker (panel specific brand)
• misc bits and bobs to complete the project

Seems like the lesson there is to get a high quality receptacle designed for multiple insertions. The first thread recommends the Hubbell HBL9450A, which is pretty pricey. I find it hard to believe a Leviton one would be fine since that is commonly seen at RV sites.

Also proper installation/wiring is key. All connections must be good so nothing gets hot, and cables should be of the proper thickness for the current drawn (6AWG in this case).

Also a of grease or dust getting onto the plug as that can reduce the contact area and cause heat.

(And amps can equate to heat if wiring is inadequate and thus overloaded.)