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I made my own out of wood, lined with styrofoam, and a brewer thermostat. This has a swing of . 5C, and can hook up to a resistance wire. I chose the wire for pipes in winter, remove the thermocouple, plug in the 2 wires,, set humidity to what they like, and you're good. I also threw in some bricks for thermal mass to help hold a nice medium while the heat was off. This worked far better than bulbs, because the constant on /off burned the tungsten. Other than the wire and thermostat, I made it literally out of scrap, so $30 with a far better success rate than anything I could buy. Amazon thermoatat
It can be done with an Arduino, but I don't know that I'd bother. Temperature is the most commonly controlled process parameter and as a result, there are literally thousands of cheap temperature controllers on the market. I'd just buy one and be done with it.
Let's see what I can find with a random Amazon search. Here's one from the first page of search before I even sorted the results:
This is an amazing and cheap temperature controller. I use this connected to a 150W ceramic heat emitter. You could use a smaller size, like 100W, if your enclosure is smaller. It ensures the substrate where my tortoise is burrowed doesn't drop below 80 degrees at night.
Be careful. You would be better wiring in a different thermostat rather than focusing on the light. You need power to go to the unit and the split it from there. One to the light, the other to the compressor. Rather than a socket thermostat look for something like this:
This is what I would do. I have fixed a freezer with one of this type which comes with a thermocouple sensor and it worked great. (The freezer had an old mechanical thermostat)
Bear in mind you need to install the new sensor in an appropriate place inside the fridge. Probably easiest to follow the existing one and remove it. And after installing it's probably a good idea to check that the temperature reading is accurate if this is used for food storage.
I posted this earlier: An STC-1000 temperature controller ($16 on Amazon) could be used here. They are widely used for aquariums, but I use one in beer making.
I bought two of the these hot and cold controllers
I use one for a fermentation chamber and another for a keezer. The keezer one is mounted into the collar I also wired in a computer fan to the same power that is powering controller so it is always on. Use an old phone charger to convert to DC and just cut off the usb end and wire it up to the fan.
I put the thermometer in a growler full of water that is sitting on the freezer motor shelf.
Use a PID temp controller from amazon, $8-15. Make sure the relay has enough amperage for your slow cooker (10 amps should be more than enough for most cookers). I made 4-5 and gave them to friends.
Use an old aquarium air pump for circulation.
I made a box out of 3" solid insulation foam(dense styrene). The fermenter sits on a base and there are two 1" pvc pipes that go up through the corners. The 5 sided top slides over these. Generally this will keep it warm, but if not I use an aquarium heater with a $16 thermocontroller from Amazon
Works great for letting those starches convert too
Don't look at the wiring diagram in the pic scroll down and look at the reviews, the top review has the correct wiring diagram. Pretty cheap.
Use a temperature control module
Be sure to get one such as the Inkbird, which can directly control your load. 150W isn't much,so should be easy for such a controller.
I wanted to use a method that was cheap to see if I liked Sous Vide before I bought real equipment. I started using ziploc bags and removed air by submersing the bag as much as possible then zip. Total investment at this point was less than $20 since I had the large crocpot.
Worked so well I bought a vaccum sealer.
This does require some assmebly because it is meant to go inside equipment. I used a short drop cord. Drop plugs into wall, powers this device, and also powers the port. This device uses a relay to turn pot on and off.
I'm sorry, total noob here. Do you mean something like this and does this get wired directly into the mini fridge? I feel silly but I have no idea about any of this.
Actually, right on Amazon. There are a bunch of different types, make sure you get one that has the wiring you need. Temperature probes can probably be bought on Amazon as well. I'll check later today for the link to where I get mine...
If you're going the crock pot route, you won't need these, though!
My ~7 cubic foot chest freezer was $100 on Craigslist. I also bought an Inkbird ITC-1000F temperature controller. If you have a spare 6-8 foot power cord from an old laptop or even extension cord you are good to go for ~$125.
Howdy, all. First of all, thanks for all the input and ideas for tweaks or other cooling options. Like I said, this was just hacked together with stuff I had lying around on a night when I was bored.
In any case, this worked fairly well - actually better than I had expected. Within 3 hours the temperature was down from 78*F to 74*F, and by the time I woke up the following morning, the temperature was down to 65*F. It's been maintaining that temperature steadily, as long as I keep ice in the cooler. I've been using frozen 1gal water jugs swapped out every 12 hours or so. I'm gonna call it a success - it achieved my goal for temp control.
I picked up an ITC-1000 temp controller to play with and work into the system and when this batch is done, I'll probably toy with the whole thing with 5gal water in it so I don't experiment on another actual batch. Other possible additions include a bigger cooler (I've been looking to build a mash tun anyway....), and (as some of you have mentioned), putting the (stainless?) coil inside the fermenter, with grommeted holes for input and output.
I also have to balance my brewing projects against the fact that I live in a 1BR apartment, and I have to store all the stuff somewhere when it's not being used.
Ink bird 12v digital and 100amp relay found on amazon/ebay
This guy is for sale on Amazon right now for less than $15 and is in Fahrenheit:
Thanks for advice , I’m currently using this, but the 12v version And I would like to find something cheaper / less energy if there is anything ??
apfelwein, when fermenting you want to keep it at 20°, the crock pot is controlled by my stc 1000 Temperature Controller at that time it was 10° in the brewhouse, it also works for quark cheese.
Check the dimensions, but yea for the most part any will work, just add this.
Inkbird's ITC1000 is basically the same as an STC and reads out in F.
I use this temperature controller to control my 3d printer temperature INKBIRD ITC-1000， maybe this is also suitable for you.
You can get a cheap external thermostat that could help.
i see now. if i were you id probably see if theres a way to get a temperature sensor insdie the grow room while keeping the ac iteslf outside the grow tent. maybe get some kind of temperature controller that lets you plug in your AC into it. put the controller inside the tent while the ac unit is outside ?
something like this maybe:
Hello, I'm Adam the one whose site was liked to above. Since I made that post I've moved everything that was in the small room (bathroom) into a coat closet. I didn't feel like going to the same extreme as I did before but I did use the same fan and controls and vented it outside.
Seems like you've figured out a route to go but I'll offer up some of the things I learned doing both projects.
Based on your list, you will likely not need that much cooling/exhaust. Keep in mind that my setup I have actual servers, enterprise grade PoE switches, etc. I'm generating a lot of heat. A cable modem, nas and router are probably not going to need that much exhaust. You may be able to have it completely passive as long at the closet isn't completely sealed.
Generally speaking, stuff can run a lot "hotter" than you think. My current setup does not start venting till it gets to 85 and stops venting at 80.
I don't care what anyone says, DO NOT vent directly into the attic/crawl space, etc. And you need to insulate ducting.
If you do find that you need to vent, you may need to add an intake. I put a vent in the door (with a filter) to pull cooler air in when the exhaust was on.
Silent is hard but the TD-MIXVENT fans are pretty quiet. I moved the one I was using in the room to the closet. It's way over-sized for the task. I could have gone smaller if I was more concerned with noise. The fan is in the attic, close to the closet because it made wiring easier. If noise is a bigger concern than wiring difficulty, place the fan in the attic but down in an area where it's not above a living space that's sensitive to noise.
There are cheap commercially available thermostats that will do what you need. I custom made my first setup because I wanted the different venting options (and because I like doing that sort of thing). I used an Arduino in the second (closet) setup only 'cause I had it on hand.
That's all I can think of at the moment, if you have any questions let me know.
Well you've got a very cheap option and a still cheap but slightly less so option. Lots of homebrewers use that second one for kegerators & fermentation chambers.
Oh that looks much better; I got this as my first google result and was like 'welp I'm not messing with that', haha
You can buy an inkbird controller that is ready to go with plugs and all or just the controller. I have both. If you get just the controller you have to wire it to an outlet then put the whole thing in a project box, not hard but if you don't like to tinker it's easier just to buy one already set up. The controller has 2 plugs, one for heating and one for cooling. You plug your heater into the heat outlet and a fan into the cool outlet if you need it. There is a probe that runs to the tank to read the temp. If it gets cold it turns on the heater, if it gets warm it turns on the fan. I love them, my tanks are in the garage so I need the fans.
Edit: here is one of mine [link]
[link] , i used a diffrent heater, you can get by for about $30-50, controller was [link] and that comes with thermocouple, heater was [link] , you can also use a more powerful/diffrent heater, and cooler was [link] or you can use any cooler, use this pump [link] it is highest rated and lasts a very long time at high temperatures, you can also use a old rice cooker, you CAN use a crock pot but it takes 2-3 hours to heat up, or if you want it easy for under $40 [link] it is pretty much the same thing, possibly less accurate, AND YOU WILL BE SUBMERSING 110v HEATER, AND YOU WILL TINGLE IF YOU STICK FINGER IN, be super careful, and only use gfci outlet that you test regularly
TLDR ; [link] buy this to controll temperature if not DIY and use [link] pump and similar heater to [link] if you do not want to DIY, if you want to DIY watch [link]
This is the temperature controller I purchased.
I'm planning on using an Inkbird temperature controller to regulate a heating element in a cooler used as a HLT. Will there be an issue if there is nothing hooked up the the cooling connections of the Inkbird?
Make yourself a temp controller with an stc 1000 or ranco. Cheap and effective. I used a lab thermometer to calibrate mine. Which was only off by 1 degree f when I received it. They are quite accurate and reliable for the price. I use the stc1000 in both mine and my girlfriend's tanks. They can be set to keep the tank plus/minus .3 degrees c. I also have 2 heaters. Each capable of heating the tank alone for redundancy. The best part is that you don't have to worry about the heaters getting stuck on and making fish soup, since the controller will turn them off when high setpoint is reached. I set the heaters internal thermostat to just above what I set the controller for, that way if it failed, the heaters thermostat would be a backup. Doing it this way saves a lot of stress on the heaters thermostat because it is always "on" not constantly changing, wearing it out, since they are made of bending metal.
You could even use the cooling outlet to turn on a light or sound device or a fan across the top of the tank as a high temp warning in the summers.
If you aren't the diy electrical type. [link]
These controllers work great. Be sure to get the correct voltage and C° or F° as you require.
Watch this video, buy this temperature controller. Hook up a heat source (carefully placed and foil wrapped light bulb, a heating blanket, aquarium heater, etc.) to the "heat" circuit and your freezer to the "cool" circuit. Super cheap, super easy, reliable.
It does work. I was told to pick up this. .
Build your own! I've done a few at this point and couldn't be happier. Total build is around $37 and a half hour of time.
an outlet with a ground
Tools (I already had these):
Instructions in this video
My final product
Having a dual stage just makes life so much easier if you're chamber is in an area where ambient temp fluctuates.
You can buy a temperature controller, such as the ITC-1000, to regulate your chest freezer's temperature.
This was the article that I used to build mine to use on my mini-fridge turned ferm chamber.
I use an ITC-1000 temp controller that i wired to the keezer and put in the black project box.
I got one of these to build my keezer (kegerator but using a freezer instead) [link]
You have to build it, though.
This one is ready to go and probe is waterproof [link]
Can anyone look at this list of what I will be ordering on Amazon for my temperature controller and see if I'll be good to go or if I need to order other things?
Lasko 102 MyHeat Personal Ceramic Heater
9-foot replacement power cord. I got the extra length on it to strip some of the wiring out for use in the controller.
125-volt wall outlet. Got the wall plate to go along with it.
Figured since I'm ordering the controller off amazon, I would order everything else I need for the build. I have a minifridge that I will be using as my single primary fermenting chamber.
I was able to use an old fridge I had to make my fermentation chamber. In this video I described what I did. Since then I've hooked up a STC-1000, Inkbird and a personal heating unit...couldn't be happier with the new setup because I can control temps all year around.
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
I assume not, but any idea if this would work in an Inkbird? Are internal boards the same, or different?
Thanks for the info. I was looking to add the extra relay because I have read that some devices draw more than 10A when they first turn on, which may cause a fuse to blow, malfunction in the STC-1000, and/or possibly a fire. These links describe what I am talking about:
This is the exact controller I bought:
Here is the label on the back:
This and a mini fridge will do wonders for your beer!!
no reviews on this product, but plenty for others. Here is their stc clone that has ~100 reviews and 4.5 stars