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I see plenty of fridges sold as "garage ready" which I thought meant that they worked in temps from 0 to 100 or something.
If you already have a fridge, I would recommend a programmable temperature controller like this: [link]
Hook it up to a incandescent lightbulb in the fridge with the temperature probe in there too. Set the fridge temp for 36 and the temp controller for 34, or something like that. On cold days the controller will cycle the light on to keep the fridge above freezing, on warm days the fridge will keep itself cool.
Pick up a temp controller, like the popular Inkbirk ITX-308. Inexpensive and works great for both heating and cooling. I tape the probe to the side of my fermenter for more accurate temps.
Plug your mat into an Inkbird and you can control the temperature. I like to wrap my mat around the fermenter for even better control.
Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W [link]
If you’re truly setting up your kitchen for prep, eliminate the standup refrigerator, convert another chest freezer into a chest fridge with a $35 part off amazon
This should be a significant power savings.
Honestly you're better off just getting an Inkbird temp controller they are so cheap at this point, and if you've got no experience it's kind of a no-brainer. Not sure where you are but you can check out this Amazon link. I think I picked mine up on sale for 25? I'd give you tips on the DIY part, but obviously I just bought this guy. I would probably just help you start a fire.
They make temperature controllers for this kind of thing. You’ll put a probe in the fridge (ideally inside something like a small glass of water to prevent drastic temp swings when you open the door), and plug the fridge into it and it will literally just unplug the fridge when it reaches whatever temp you set.
I keg in a chest freezer- both beer and booch. I use the Inkbird ITC-308 and it’s great. It has an app so you can monitor and control temp from your smartphone. And it’s pretty cheap.
As long as you stay above 60 F you shouldn't have to worry about diacetyl as long as you keep it on the yeast long enough for fermentation to reach completion and all the byproducts have a chance to get cleaned up.
Yes, you can use a thermostat on a fridge. Check out the inkbird temperature controller here
You should ferment at around 10c. If you're making a 5 gallon batch, make sure to pitch at least 2 packs of yeast.
I get the feeling you're just using your fridge's internal controls to measure the temperature. Instead, I would recommend picking up a temperature controller and tape the probe to the outside of your fermentation vessel. It will cycle your fridge on/off to hold your beer at your precise fermentation temperature.
If just kept at ambient temps, your beer will actually ferment warmer than ambient (probably 4-10 degrees F warmer). Temp swings up and down as fermentation ramps up and tapers off can be detrimental to your yeast performance.
It should work. Finding something cheaper than $20 probably won't happen
I used Inkbird
For my beer fermenter. It is more customizable, but costs double the one you linked.
Inkbird makes really reliable temperature controllers like such
Any seedling mat/reptile enclosure heater/carboy heater should work fine.
I got far too tired of failed bread, so trying this and a new recipe.
I should mention the heater I have is a 40W heater. I don't think a smaller one would have any issues just probably be on more often.
Do you have room to get an old fridge in your garage?
Get something cheap and then put a temperature regulator on it. Like this one:
It should keep your mead at the correct temperature?
Amazon has this really cool one! It’s been working really great for me, it just plug in between your power source and your lamp. Hopefully that link works, but that’s the one I have an have no complaints about so far and we’ve had a pretty chilly winter with plenty of snow here in northern Pennsylvania
There will be a socket for a cooling device, anything you plan to use: it could be small desktop fan or a large floor based model for a greenhouse.
Temp control is one of the biggest factors in consistent flavors when brewing the same beer. I do 5 gallon brews, and I have a Craigslist chest freezer and an inkbird temp controller aka thermostat, to turn the freezer on and off. Also has a plug for a heater. Keeps it at 72 or whatever I set it at. Something to consider if you move up to bigger batches.
These things are great my brother uses a similar model
Dude just get an inkbird. Plug and go.
Now get yourself one of these so you can dial in your temp.
Absolutely you can. The simplest way is to use a ITC-308, which you would plug the fridge into just like an extension cord.
You can also get something like thisthat will control the temperature by shutting down the power when it's at the right temp and kicking it back on when it starts to rise. Great for cheese fridges, which is why I have one.
You can buy an inkbird temp controller for 35 bucks on amazon, this device is often on sale on homebrew sites for around 20. Plug it in and set temp range then stick the probe in a cup of water inside the freezer, forget about it for the rest of your life at this point. A collar takes about 20 minutes to make, then another 20 to seal if that is your thing, then wait to dry and anouther 20minutes to assemble. I count all of that as the super easy part, as you do it once and it is done. You have to continually brew and clean though, that is by far the hard part (if you are alcoholic).
Hmmm... It's a possibility that it has gone bad. If you can I would remove anything you don't want to freeze and set it for freezing temps for a few days. See if it maintains a consistent temperature.
If it holds steady at freezing temps, and you are willing to spend a little money, I like the inkbird thermostat.
"Homebrew" flavor is a combination of different things usually. Largers are particularly susceptible to off flavors because they're so lightly flavored, so a good lager is all about not cutting corners or screwing up.
Usually it's some combination of:
Cleaning and Sanitation (Solution: Clean everything thoroughly with PBW and sanitize using Star San)
Yeast pitching rates (Solution: Just pitch 2 or 3 packets instead of 1)
Chlorine in the water
The two biggest challenges are water and temperature, so I'll run you through simple solutions to those:
Get a minifridge or freezer. I like a little chest freezer for this. Put a temp controller onto it and use that for your fermentation chamber. Lagers should ferment around 55-60 degrees. Any warmer and they turn out too fruity/estery. You can also use your fermentation fridge for cold crashing, and as a keggerator if you're keg carbonating.
Your local water likely sucks for making lagers. Most does. If you want to do a classic czech pilsner, the water needs to basically be distilled to taste right. So just buy RO or distilled water. Usually the places that fill up water coolers sell RO in 5 gallon jugs, or grocery stores often sell it in large jugs as well. You can build distilled/RO water up to any salt profile you want, and it will be 100% free of chlorine right from the get-go, solving two major homebrew problems in one swoop.
I do the exact same thing for my tomato's, instead of rewiring T-stats I use one of these. Just plug it in and run the new temp control wire through the door hinge.
Glass lid will look slim, helps with evaporation and jumpers.
Inkbird 308 external temperature controller allows connect heater and a fan for a cooling. It sits between power outlet and heater, with own temperature probe in the tank, stopping supplying electricity when preset by you temperature was reached. Larger than expected device with thick cables. There is smaller version, only for heating too.
250W seems to be overkill, when on, it will heat water around it with all 250W power, unlike weaker 100W heater.
For a pump, specifications on manufacturer's website are not enough, showing only the pump name, not the flow rate as usual. See its manual, flow should be around 10-20x tank volume per hour for low flow corals and 30-50x for high flow corals.
I went for a long time without temp control. When we moved into a place with a garage, I picked up a free refrigerator (Craigslist) and an Inkbird ([link]). I wrap my fermenter with a heat pad and put it in the fridge. Both the fridge and heat pad plug into the Inkbird. Cheap, precise, and consistent. Whish I had made the move years ago.
We actually use TrolMaster for our hvac and dehums - I’m looking for something standalone.
I’ve seen really simple thermostat outlets (like this : [link]
But need something that I can plug both an intake AND outtake into - these inkbirds overload if you have more than one fan plugged into them
This is a temperature controller, so you probably wouldn’t need the plugs, but it has a probe and emits an obnoxious sound with out of the set temperature band.
I use it to control my beer fermentation fridge.
If you’re concerned about the heater sticking on check out the inkbird heat controllers on Amazon. They can be another level of security. Set it a few degrees higher than you have your heater set and if it sticks on this will turn it off. They’re also not 100% 5 star ratings but the 2 things combined is a lot better than the heater on its own.
As a home brewer, these are extremely popular for controlling fermentation temps: Inkbird ITC-308. They're usually around $35 but sometimes you can find them for cheaper.
They have an outlet for heating and an outlet for cooling. You can set the temperature to whatever you want as well as an acceptable +/- range.
It sounds like you're just concerned with heating, so you'd just use the heating outlet and plug in your space heater or whatever. I've done this before by putting my little heater in a 10 gallon kettle and a 1 gallon glass jug of what I wanted to keep warm.
I use an old dorm fridge for my fermentation chamber. The fridge itself gets plugged into the cold outlet. I then use a small $10 heater from Amazon plugged into the heat outlet. Right now I have a saison fermenting at 90'F. Previously I had a kolsch lagering at 45'F.
It's a very versatile device.
Not OP, but I'm pretty sure those Inkbird controllers are the ITC-308. They have two outlets so you can plug in both a heat and a cool source. They go for $34 on Amazon - I've got them on my keezer and my fermentation chamber. They haven't let me down yet, and a pretty good price.
id toss both, the blue light isnt any better, order a 100W ceramic heat emitter bulb and a thermostat off amazon.
Thats a good idea. I already have one for a keezer that I have at my house. To convert it are you just buying a temperature controller like this or going more heavy duty and official?
You're welcome! If a heater fails in the "on" position it could wipe out your tank. That's why I don't recommend using them unless you are sure you need it. And then you might even want to consider a controller like this one. [link]
We use a controller with a temperature sensor attached like this. The freezer, instead of being directly plugged into an electrical outlet, is instead plugged into the controller which is then plugged into the wall. The sensor goes inside the freezer. When the sensor senses it's above the temperature we choose it turns on the freezer to get cold. When it's at or below the temperature we choose it cuts off the freezer from getting any electricity thus shutting it off.
It's not the healthiest thing for the freezer as that's not really what they were built to do, but as long as you're not running the compressor in quick succession you're usually ok for a while. Most controllers have a timer where you can choose not to have the power reinstated until a time limit has been reached, like 8-10 minutes.
I have a basic window unit with mechanical controls in my office. Just plugged it into one of these and called it a day.
The thermostat on most refrigerators can swing +/- 5 F or more, so it'll keep your food cold but it's not super accurate. Most people use something like an Inkbird ITC-308. To use it: you plug the inkbird into the wall, set your allowable temperatures on the inkbird, set the fridge to be as cold as possible, put the thermocouple in the fridge, and plug the fridge into the "cooling" outlet on the inkbird.
The quick lager method from brulosophy works extremely well. They've also shown that WLP830, Wyeast 2124, Saglager 34/70, Imperial L13, as well as Imperial L17 have produced an extremely good lager beer fermented at 66F.
Even at typical lager fermentation temperature, it does not take 8 weeks to ferment. It would be more like 2 weeks to ferment and then some choose to lager for additional time. Historically, the additional time was to allow the beer to naturally clarify. We can do the same thing in a few days with gelatin. I'll admit a lager changes after a couple weeks in the keg, but after that it is pretty set in it's flavor profile.
To answer the OP, yes any kegerator/fridge/keezer is perfect for fermentation temperature control, just add a temperature controller.
It’s a good point with GFCI but it is protecting you against quite a few hazards. If you’re worried over that then I would look into a GFCI breaker on wherever that outlet runs. They’re a little safer I think but most people are probably hesitant to toy with their breaker box. I think it’s an easy install, but don’t quote me on that!
So you can do that with loc line or have it set up so your nozzle breaks the surface quickly enough that little water is drained. I mentioned the Random Flow Generator or Inductor nozzles as they have open slits to force water in and add current, and these slits break the siphon quickly without forcing your nozzle to face directly upwards.
What do you mean by glue both sides of the bulkhead? I normally stick to threaded fittings in case it ever needs changed. Don’t use Teflon tape though as it’s not recommended for the tapered threading. Use Teflon/PTFE paste or whatever it is called.
With four heaters you should run them on a strip to a controller just in case. It’s a cheap addition and can handle a chiller too.
These are all small nitpicks though, overall you’re definitely going to be set for a pretty nice setup.
The fridge is hooked up to a temperature sensor, so it only runs when the internal temp is above 75 degrees F. The temp controller turns off the fridge when the temp gets to 75 degrees F.
I'm going to add a heating mat to the inside back wall of the fridge so the temp controller can warm up the fridge when it gets below 75 degrees F
here's the temperature controller I use.
Or...if you want to go all in....go get you a chest freezer and one of these. Careful though, its a slippery slope into a endless hunt for the next upgrade.
With those fluctuations in temperature and the humidity issues, it sounds like you’d be better off spending your money on buying a temperature control unit online (~$35 for an Inkbird) and trying to find an inexpensive chest freezer on Craigslist. I know that isn’t a utilization of the crawl space, but it would yield way better cellaring conditions. Which, in theory, should yield better cellared beers. Or maybe just less spoiled by temperature fluctuations, etc.
VPD is important. But you don't have to hit numbers exactly.
Best way to maintain moisture in a dry climate is with your ventilation. A programmable thermostat will let you keep your exhaust off until it's needed. Which allows humidity to build.
I'm in a cold, dry winter climate, too. I tell the fans to kick on at 77 degrees, and off at 74. Even in a 60 degree, 30% RH ambient room, my tent RH stays in a happy range 90% of the time.
Hi are you by any chance referring to this? [link]
It seems like they're used for terrariums and plants? I do have a crockpot and im actually pretty intrigued.
We're the same way, but I'm thinking about buying myself one this fall with the knowledge that it will only be used occasionally. We're not getting a vacuum sealer because they're incredibly wasteful and we don't freeze all that much food. I'm also not spending the money on a true immersion unit so I'll likely just go with a controller like this plugged into our crock pot.
> 40 gal screen top tank
> No thermostat as there is a thick layer of substrate in the tank
/r/ballpython 's worse nightmare. Haha
I see you live in Southern (?) Florida, that's a huge reason why you haven't had an issue keeping the way you have. Decent on/off thermostats like this Inkbird are so cheap there's pretty much no reason not to have one. Check out /r/ballpythons sticky thread. I'm sure you can agree that even if you haven't had an issue in all this time that there's always room for improvement. Here's to 20 more!
I had this problem and solved it by putting a duct fan at the furthest vent hooked up to a temperature controlled outlet inside the duct.
Inkbird ITC-308 Digital... [link]
You're going to want to pick up something like this. You set a temperature and an acceptable threshold (i have mine varying by only one degree), and it will automatically turn the heat lamp off and on to keep it at a consistant temperature.
I also have a under-tank heat mat for my hot side, which is the main thing used to warm my snake. I absolutely recommend getting one to put under your tank. Corns like to burrow and will get more benefit to having one on the hot side. I just use the heat lamp to keep the ambient air in the tank at an acceptable level. You will want to get a separate controller for the heat mat.
Edit: I also have an Indoor/Outdoor Thermometer just chilling in the tank to get a more accurate reading inside. Your tank atmosphere is going to usually be a bit different than the atmosphere in your room. I have the "inside" number reading the ambient temp of the tank, the "outside" number reading the inside of the under-tank mat (controller probe goes between mat and glass on the outside, and this prob sticks to the glass on the inside under the substrate), and it also tells me the humidity in the tank.
You want to keep your numbers as consistant as possible. I like to shoot for 85 degrees on the hot side, 75 degrees on the cool side, and between 40%-60% humidty. I hope this information helps. Let me know if you have any questions.
Edit 2: GoHerping does a great care guide video on YouTube, which is where I got most of my setup and care info from. There is also a link to their discord on the YouTube page that is full of friendly people that can answer a lot of your questions.
Edit 3: You're going to be better off using a Ceramic Heat Emitter instead of a bulb. It just produces heat and no light, which will be better with the controller ( you don't want the light isn't constantly turning off and on). Corns don't need UVB either, and do fine with just natural lighting (assuming the light in the room still follows the normal day/night cycle).
This controller is made just for that. If you plug the chest freezer into it, it will keep the temp at whatever you set it. Only $15
Id keep her at 75 risky going higher
It actually does the cooling, you get an inkbird thermostat and plug the freezer in to it. Set the temp where you want it and it turns the power on and off to keep it at temp. [link]
No worries, and cheers. I used a chest freezer and one of those Inkbird temperature controllers. I also bought this stainless thermowell that I attached to my fermentor. Put the probe from the Inkbird inside the well. Gave me complete control during the process.
Inkbird makes inexpensive controllers that are simple to set up and use with a freezer. Commonly used in home brewing and kegerator setups.
My suggestion would be a kegging setup, so:
With a system like that you could carb up meads/wines after they've been stabilized and back sweetened. You could also dip you toe into beer brewing, if that was something that interested you. I've also used my kegs to carbonate water for making pop and cocktails.
I got my start with this kit form Adventures in Homebrewing: https://www.homebrewing.org/Homebrew-Kegging-Kit-BALL-LOCK-no-keg_p_1673.html
It includes the regulator, hoses, connectors, and a tap, with the option to adda CO2 tank. I choose to add the CO2 tank but you might not need to buy a tank if there is a good homebrew shop near you they sometimes "rent" CO2 tanks. AIH also sells new and used corny kegs, but you might find better deals on places like FB Marketplace.
For a temp controller I went with this on off amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HXM5UAC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Depending on what you get for a fridge/freezer and the price and how many kegs you get that should be within your budget.
^Item&nbsp;Info | Bot&nbsp;Info | Trigger
Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V [link]
You can buy things like this and plug your heater in behind the controller. That way if your heater ever fails and attempts to over heat, the controller will cut the power.
I assume you're a homebrewer. Why can't you lager?
Basically my old setup (my heater was way more dangerous and my temp controller was a DIY monster). Temperature controlled ferm chamber, $150. Plug the heat pad into the heat part, the freezer in the cold one. Place fermenter and heating mat in the chamber with the dehumidifier and set the temp you want.
I have of these hooked up inline with the heaters on all my tanks over 10 gallons: https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC
Costs more than the heater but less than restocking (especially when you're keeping cichlids that can run you $10-20+ eaches).
Hack yourself some active temperature control with something like this: [link]
Use one of these along with a slowcooker that has an analog (low / med / hot) dial. It won't work with one with electronics.
That will let you set whatever temp you want, and the temp probe makes it turn on and off electric to the slow cooker. I used to use one for doing sous vide until I bought an Anova.
They make small temperature controlers like this that would do the trick:
In a fridge a pretty small heater should do the trick
1) It’s kind of large and unattractive so you’d have to hide it.
2) I’m not sure if you’re in the usa or if they make a non usa version.
3) it’s not “smart”, no wifi, nothing but a plug and a set point.
But if those 3 points don’t deter you….
Edit : i see now it looks like you’re in NL, so maybe this.
Edit 2 : It goes without saying that if your blower fan is hardwired you’d need to add a plug and a receptacle in order for this to work. Depending on your skills, you might need to contact a qualified electrician.
Temp regulator (with coupon)
Tent (I am currently using my sideways)
You'd likely be able to find cheaper on the Heater & Fan if you shopped @ a local hardware shop. I will be going to one to get dryer venting for the exhaust. Depending on where you are in the world, tents are a bit more expensive on the east coast US right now.
On this site you can order different sizes of this heat tape for super cheap:
Plug it into an Inkbird:
And away you go. I ferment in my basement which stays in the low 50s and just heat from there.
That looks like a rebranded Inkbird ITC-308 which can be had for a little cheaper on Amazon (and is a prime item). It's $35 and has a 15% off coupon for it, making it $30 atm.
Something like this but mine is 30a capable. Got a few a couple years ago.
I did my first ribeye without humidity and found the meat lost too much moisture to where the meat wasn’t very juicy even though well marbled. Introducing the humidifier and and raising to 75-90% RH made all the difference. Can’t speak for the bags but I would assume they would also benefit from humidity.
I use this humidifier which you can set humidity on. It’s inaccurate but you can put a hygrometer in there to manually calibrate or get a humidity controller. I found setting it to 50% RH on low setting actually results in 75-90% RH. humidifier
I use the ink bird temp controller as I’m sure many do on here for it’s simplicity — it’s plug and play. I know people who use it for beer brewing and mushroom growing as well, it works well.
Inkbird also makes humidity controller which I’m sure works well if you bought a humidifier where you can’t set the target RH.
Martha Build 1.0
This is a simple list of Items Used and the location I purchased from with prices @ time of build.
Total Price $231.98
As this set up is subject to change. Example My fan quit working correctly after 3 days now looking at forced air like air pump from large fish tank. Also thinking of changing the hose out to 1/2"ID pvc with 4 top outlet spots.
Building this is very simple!
All updates to items used will follow 1.01
My spelling sucks so please dont be the grammar police.
This controller with this heater?
Deal link: Amazon
Coupon code: ZDXE5445
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If you can aford it, i advice you to buy a temperature switch such as this one :
With this you can have maximum fog time, wich i think would be beneficial but that's supposition.
I have old school tech, I have an old STC-1000 (TheBlackBox) with a FermWrap. Nowadays the fridge/bulb or wrap is the way to go with one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=psdc_306533011_t3_B00Y8T9YZG
I have a winefridge I pull the racks out of and use when I need chilling. Typically my basement is <67'F year-round so I'm almost always just heating unless it's a lager.
Yes, you can buy separate temperature regulators. Check out:
I personally own #2 and would recommend - been using it for almost 2 years now.
The term you are looking for is "temperature controller". There are lots for many different applications. Example: [link]
> If so, would I be able to use some sort of temperature regulation device that can override the kegerator and it still function?
Yes. The inkbird is a common one.
Price of a Pawn, value of a Queen.
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Are you looking for something like this?
An inkbird is prolly what you're looking for. Not crazy expensive.
Heating easy, and not that expensive (cooling is where it gets pricey)
Plug one of these:
Focus on Saison or Kveik yeast, both ferment hotter than your ambient temp so it’s easy to raise the temp to what they want. Some English and Belgian yeasts like to ferment warm too, just do some research into yeasts and you’ll find some that are happy at pretty much any temp.
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I'm not sure what a raspberry pi pid is. I found this on Amazon, it says it goes to ~248*, think this would work?
Interested in an inkbird 308. Right now Amazon has two of them. One has a 15% discount, but I can't figure out how the two are different. Can anyone spot the difference between this and this
How much are you making? In the early days of home sous vide, when the only options were expensive devices made for commercial or lab applications, people used a PID Controller with an analog rice cooker. The rice cooker plugs into the PID controller. The PID controller has a thermocouple probe which relays the temperature in the rice cooker, so it can use the heating element to maintain a constant temperature.
Commercial PID controllers are resonably priced, and there are plans available to build your own.
Here is a PID Controller on Amazon for under $40.
Here is info on a Do-it-yourself set up: Cheap and Effective Sous Vide Cooker--Arduino Powered.
Cheaper setup alternative is to buy these things from amazon...
If you go this route and something goes wrong you can replace the heating element for like 10-12usd... (protip keep it immersed)
Also you can add a fish tank water pump to circulate water to keep things super nice and even water temp wise in the bath.
Total cost for both is like 46usd? vs ~100usd for food cooking heater that's only like 750watt heater
>ITC-308 and WiFi ITC-308 are loved by our a lot of home brewing customers.
ITC-308 and WiFi ITC-308 are loved by our a lot of home brewing customers.
Put those prices in Checkmate.
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Yeah, no problem! I bought this thermometer
and this fan. My aquarium is 29 gallons, so you may need to get a different fan if yours is larger.
get a thermostat, like this one https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC, it will turn off the light if it overheats.
Is this temp controller good?
Inkbird ITC-308 Max.1200W Heater, Cool Device Temperature Controller, Carboy, Fermenter, Greenhouse Terrarium Temp. Control [link]
Of course. You need it. In order to keep the temperature balance. I advise you connect the light and fan to one heat and cool temperature controller.
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC or a product like it.