I see plenty of fridges sold as "garage ready" which I thought meant that they worked in temps from 0 to 100 or something. If you already have a fridge, I would recommend a programmable temperature controller like this: https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=programmable+temperature+controller&qid=1607138038&sprefix=programmable+temperature&sr=8-3 Hook it up to a incandescent lightbulb in the fridge with the temperature probe in there too. Set the fridge temp for 36 and the temp controller for 34, or something like that. On cold days the controller will cycle the light on to keep the fridge above freezing, on warm days the fridge will keep itself cool.
Pick up a temp controller, like the popular Inkbirk ITX-308. Inexpensive and works great for both heating and cooling. I tape the probe to the side of my fermenter for more accurate temps.
Plug your mat into an Inkbird and you can control the temperature. I like to wrap my mat around the fermenter for even better control.
Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_258VY924AZ07TH68W990?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If you’re truly setting up your kitchen for prep, eliminate the standup refrigerator, convert another chest freezer into a chest fridge with a $35 part off amazon
This should be a significant power savings.
Honestly you're better off just getting an Inkbird temp controller they are so cheap at this point, and if you've got no experience it's kind of a no-brainer. Not sure where you are but you can check out this Amazon link. I think I picked mine up on sale for 25? I'd give you tips on the DIY part, but obviously I just bought this guy. I would probably just help you start a fire.
They make temperature controllers for this kind of thing. You’ll put a probe in the fridge (ideally inside something like a small glass of water to prevent drastic temp swings when you open the door), and plug the fridge into it and it will literally just unplug the fridge when it reaches whatever temp you set.
Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_4XAQ3V8MQ1B2FTVVF46P
I keg in a chest freezer- both beer and booch. I use the Inkbird ITC-308 and it’s great. It has an app so you can monitor and control temp from your smartphone. And it’s pretty cheap.
Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_Y3ncGbCQM4JMP
As long as you stay above 60 F you shouldn't have to worry about diacetyl as long as you keep it on the yeast long enough for fermentation to reach completion and all the byproducts have a chance to get cleaned up.
Yes, you can use a thermostat on a fridge. Check out the inkbird temperature controller here
You should ferment at around 10c. If you're making a 5 gallon batch, make sure to pitch at least 2 packs of yeast.
I get the feeling you're just using your fridge's internal controls to measure the temperature. Instead, I would recommend picking up a temperature controller and tape the probe to the outside of your fermentation vessel. It will cycle your fridge on/off to hold your beer at your precise fermentation temperature.
If just kept at ambient temps, your beer will actually ferment warmer than ambient (probably 4-10 degrees F warmer). Temp swings up and down as fermentation ramps up and tapers off can be detrimental to your yeast performance.
It should work. Finding something cheaper than $20 probably won't happen
For my beer fermenter. It is more customizable, but costs double the one you linked.
Inkbird makes really reliable temperature controllers like such https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/
Any seedling mat/reptile enclosure heater/carboy heater should work fine.
I got far too tired of failed bread, so trying this and a new recipe.
I should mention the heater I have is a 40W heater. I don't think a smaller one would have any issues just probably be on more often.
Do you have room to get an old fridge in your garage?
Get something cheap and then put a temperature regulator on it. Like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC
It should keep your mead at the correct temperature?
Amazon has this really cool one! It’s been working really great for me, it just plug in between your power source and your lamp. Hopefully that link works, but that’s the one I have an have no complaints about so far and we’ve had a pretty chilly winter with plenty of snow here in northern Pennsylvania
Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_EXAB499NE0TGD53QSQCA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
There will be a socket for a cooling device, anything you plan to use: it could be small desktop fan or a large floor based model for a greenhouse.
Temp control is one of the biggest factors in consistent flavors when brewing the same beer. I do 5 gallon brews, and I have a Craigslist chest freezer and an inkbird temp controller aka thermostat, to turn the freezer on and off. Also has a plug for a heater. Keeps it at 72 or whatever I set it at. Something to consider if you move up to bigger batches.
These things are great my brother uses a similar model
Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_908yFbHWW3A8X
A really cheap way to try it (see if you like it) is to get a temperature controller and an old crockpot (the kind you can stick on HIGH). Garage sale or thrift store.
I've been using heater controllers with my heaters for years. Example. It adds $30 and pretty much guarantees you won't lose fish to a "heater stuck on" failure. For that to happen both the heater and the controller would have to be stuck on.
Buy a quality heater (I use Fluval or Eheim) and a controller and you can't go wrong.
> Please tell me there are cookers with settings that are actually low heat....
If you prefer older slow cookers there are many awaiting you at the thrift store.
If you need precise/custom temp control I'd recommend an analog crock and adding on an external temperature control. <-- first example that loaded, not necessarily a recomendation
Any heater no matter how good the brand can go crazy. You can add a secondary temperature controller as a backup. The controller may also fail as well but at least you have 2 lines of defense.
That sounds good, just in case there are many consecutive rainy days. I'd rather not have the computer flicker on the day after while there is enough light to charge but not at high enough rate to keep the computer on.
Sorry if this idea sounds silly, it's a new domain for me. I'm looking for the battery charge equivalent of this. Does that make sense? I could over engineer one by having a camera read it and do OCR to get the battery level off the charge controller, but since I can imagine that, I must assume something exists already lol
Been keeping Fish and Reptiles for around 20 years. A redundant thermostat would have circumvented this.
Have your heater set to your desired temp (lets say 78 for sake of the example), then plug your heater into the thermostat. The thermostat probe goes into the tank. Set the thermostat to the top end of what your fish would tolerate, say 84 degrees. If you heater's internal thermostat fails/gets stuck in the on position, the thermostat it is plugged into will shut off electricity to it once the water gets to 84.
I’ve had success in the 73-79 Fahrenheit range for inoculating bags. Sounds like a shed would be hard to regulate temperatures in. An indoor closet at room temp should do nicely. I picked up one of these to better monitor temps
Plug a mini fridge into one of these. People use that setup for fermenting beer and all sorts of things reliably.
If you're willing to invest $35 and you have a crock pot with a dial, you could get an inkbird to regulate the temperature for you.
Buy a cheap used fridge with a bottle thermometer with a power supply switch like this https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC
Essential it unplugs the fridge whenever the temp in the bottle drops below 55 or whatever temp you choose and then back on when it climbs. It's not a eurocave but it'll do the job for a couple of years.
Hey, this is my area of engineering expertise. If you are only running one fan, and it's operating at line voltage, you need a simple "temperature controller with relay". These are a commodity item, easily purchased on amazon or similar.
my go-to cheap one with plug ends
If you're running a few more fans, I'd suggest buying a stand alone temp controller, and plugging it into an external relay box that has a higher current capacity. This also works if your fans are running at a voltage which is not line voltage, but that is quite rare in this industry.
Chest freezer and temperature control (like this). Run the probe into the freezer (may need to punch a hole), set your desired temp / differential, plug the chest freezer into the controller instead of the wall. You can also use this for maintaining fermentation temp if you're brewing beer yourself, or for a kegerator if you want to put a tap on top.
Also you can get a heater controller that basically acts as a safety. My heater routinely goes over setpoint (like, the tank is 85 instead of 79), so I use the controller to keep his tank within a degree of 80F.
The temp probe i have looks a little different but it's basically the same otherwise.
Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_1N0WJ9962N91TB9MD4MW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D44504M7JH791G6A2PFD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Consider getting a temperature control device and a heating belt. We bought our scoby off Etsy and assembled our brew station from Amazon. Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0GMYH5FAAS4C7FFGDCX3
Looks like a nice setup. Two additions I'd suggest is a temperature controller for the heat pad and a timer plug for the lights. I'd personally prioritise these over the tent. I set the timer for 12 hours of light and the temp controller to low to mid 20s. This way everything stays consistent which the plants like and it makes it easier to predict the plant's water needs.
This is the temperature controller I have and I use a Nedis wifi plug for my light:
Very easy to add on a pid..
Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_TCZDARTNFG3QQQ7ZW280
Just use something similar.
Heating pad and insulation works great, especially when combined with a temp controller like an inkbird.
At the same time, it doesn't need to be 70-80 unless the yeast strain specifically calls for high temperatures (Belgian, Saison and Kveik yeasts for example). I usually aim for mid-60s since fermentation will raise the temp 5-10 degrees.
Honestly they’re both leftover from my old beer brewing days and there are much better options now. This controller is much cheaper than what I have. Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_E2DRYTGBX7RSADGH9H8K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is the temperature control we have and we've been very happy with it. Our brooder is out in a metal uninsulated building so the temp swing from night to mid day is huge. Once it's above a certain temp the heat lamp just cuts off and if it's too hot I have an oscillating fan that'll kick on to blow some of that hot air out.
Are your plates the real low ones that the chicks can get under?
Use an InkBird controller which you can get on Amazon with a lightbulb and a small fan.
Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_SVYABC02Z2MB5DPCBCZ2
Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_VQRAY47PK6XZP68G11T1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Let's see if I can link it
Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_0JNRT38E5W2G5DKW2B4Q
I have a controller that does the opposite with a mini heater and has a plug in spot for an ac as well. Here it is Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_QR0PFPCVHV5CVEFNG0SW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'm using one of these digital temp controllers. Does the job for me. Has some great safety features too. Alarms when temps get too high or too low. Fire safety etc...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_TVGVYRD4D9HNPY19F4AM
Under the tank heaters are not going to get you the temperature gradient you need. 70 degrees is too low, even for the cooler side. It needs to be AT LEAST 75 degrees on the cool side, and around 90 degrees in the warm side. And with any heat source, you need to have it plugged into a thermostat. this is the one that I have. And as for humidity, 55% is too low. 60% is considered the bare minimum. There’s a lot of outdated information saying that 50-60 is where it needs to be, but it really needs to be between 70-85%. A good way to achieve that is to block off some of the screen top with hvac tape. It’s like aluminum foil kind of. It helps hold humidity in. you’ll also want a few inches of substrate. Pour water into a corner so there’s water at the bottom but the top layer stays dry. That is good for humidity. But if you’re going to do that, you absolutely need proper heating.
I too had to add a heater outside of my tent. I hooked it up to a temp sensor and put the probe inside the tent though so now the heater only kicks on when it gets to be 70 and shuts off at 73 regardless of what the temp is outside of the tent.
This is the temp sensor I use: https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=2788N7K2DR8KU&keywords=temp+sensor+inkbird&qid=1639356303&sprefix=temp+sensor+inkbird%2Caps%2C169&sr=8-3
I'm sorry for your loss.. If you're still wanting to stay in the hobby, I strongly recommend utilizing the Inkbird temp controllers. I have had one too many Hydor heaters fail on me so this is my safety net. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_TAKG2F26H5ZE3D9SVFRR
I had the same concern and had two 50w for a 10g tank. I got a temperature controller and it made a big difference. I set the heaters dials to like 90 degrees and programmed the controller to the actual temperature I want so they both are sure to run.
This is what I use to control a small heater inside my dogs' house. If you have a dumb heater that can be controlled by simply plugging it in or unplugging it, then this will do exactly what you want. Note that many heaters might not come back on if the power is interrupted by something like this, so be sure to check (I have a digitally-controlled space heater that won't return to its running state if it loses power-- I have to physically go turn it back on).
I set up my dog house a few years ago, but these days I'd use a smart outlet and temperature sensor. Aqara makes some inexpensive yet reliable gear (and is on special on Amazon right now). Would be overkill for just your garage, but could serve as your entry point into smart home and automation (Warning: it's addictive). For this project you'd need the hub, a temperature sensor, an a smart outlet. Then program it in the app to do whatever you want it to do.
Dude just get an inkbird. Plug and go.
Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_4KDJWRP94GNMA9H5SG12
Now get yourself one of these so you can dial in your temp.
Absolutely you can. The simplest way is to use a ITC-308, which you would plug the fridge into just like an extension cord.
You can also get something like thisthat will control the temperature by shutting down the power when it's at the right temp and kicking it back on when it starts to rise. Great for cheese fridges, which is why I have one.
You can buy an inkbird temp controller for 35 bucks on amazon, this device is often on sale on homebrew sites for around 20. Plug it in and set temp range then stick the probe in a cup of water inside the freezer, forget about it for the rest of your life at this point. A collar takes about 20 minutes to make, then another 20 to seal if that is your thing, then wait to dry and anouther 20minutes to assemble. I count all of that as the super easy part, as you do it once and it is done. You have to continually brew and clean though, that is by far the hard part (if you are alcoholic).
Hmmm... It's a possibility that it has gone bad. If you can I would remove anything you don't want to freeze and set it for freezing temps for a few days. See if it maintains a consistent temperature.
If it holds steady at freezing temps, and you are willing to spend a little money, I like the inkbird thermostat.
"Homebrew" flavor is a combination of different things usually. Largers are particularly susceptible to off flavors because they're so lightly flavored, so a good lager is all about not cutting corners or screwing up.
Usually it's some combination of:
Cleaning and Sanitation (Solution: Clean everything thoroughly with PBW and sanitize using Star San)
Temperature Control
Yeast pitching rates (Solution: Just pitch 2 or 3 packets instead of 1)
Water Chemistry
Chlorine in the water
The two biggest challenges are water and temperature, so I'll run you through simple solutions to those:
Temp Control
Get a minifridge or freezer. I like a little chest freezer for this. Put a temp controller onto it and use that for your fermentation chamber. Lagers should ferment around 55-60 degrees. Any warmer and they turn out too fruity/estery. You can also use your fermentation fridge for cold crashing, and as a keggerator if you're keg carbonating.
Water
Your local water likely sucks for making lagers. Most does. If you want to do a classic czech pilsner, the water needs to basically be distilled to taste right. So just buy RO or distilled water. Usually the places that fill up water coolers sell RO in 5 gallon jugs, or grocery stores often sell it in large jugs as well. You can build distilled/RO water up to any salt profile you want, and it will be 100% free of chlorine right from the get-go, solving two major homebrew problems in one swoop.
I do the exact same thing for my tomato's, instead of rewiring T-stats I use one of these. Just plug it in and run the new temp control wire through the door hinge.
Glass lid will look slim, helps with evaporation and jumpers.
Inkbird 308 external temperature controller allows connect heater and a fan for a cooling. It sits between power outlet and heater, with own temperature probe in the tank, stopping supplying electricity when preset by you temperature was reached. Larger than expected device with thick cables. There is smaller version, only for heating too.
250W seems to be overkill, when on, it will heat water around it with all 250W power, unlike weaker 100W heater.
For a pump, specifications on manufacturer's website are not enough, showing only the pump name, not the flow rate as usual. See its manual, flow should be around 10-20x tank volume per hour for low flow corals and 30-50x for high flow corals.
I went for a long time without temp control. When we moved into a place with a garage, I picked up a free refrigerator (Craigslist) and an Inkbird (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_1J0MJAG3AB09XB9BN2G7). I wrap my fermenter with a heat pad and put it in the fridge. Both the fridge and heat pad plug into the Inkbird. Cheap, precise, and consistent. Whish I had made the move years ago.
We actually use TrolMaster for our hvac and dehums - I’m looking for something standalone.
I’ve seen really simple thermostat outlets (like this : https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=temperature+controlled+outlet&qid=1617662786&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&smid=A1RUFFFCQ74BCW&spLa=ZW5jcnl...
But need something that I can plug both an intake AND outtake into - these inkbirds overload if you have more than one fan plugged into them
This is a temperature controller, so you probably wouldn’t need the plugs, but it has a probe and emits an obnoxious sound with out of the set temperature band.
Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_XG8570GNP4RKZFW4MJRJ
I use it to control my beer fermentation fridge.
If you’re concerned about the heater sticking on check out the inkbird heat controllers on Amazon. They can be another level of security. Set it a few degrees higher than you have your heater set and if it sticks on this will turn it off. They’re also not 100% 5 star ratings but the 2 things combined is a lot better than the heater on its own.
As a home brewer, these are extremely popular for controlling fermentation temps: Inkbird ITC-308. They're usually around $35 but sometimes you can find them for cheaper.
They have an outlet for heating and an outlet for cooling. You can set the temperature to whatever you want as well as an acceptable +/- range.
It sounds like you're just concerned with heating, so you'd just use the heating outlet and plug in your space heater or whatever. I've done this before by putting my little heater in a 10 gallon kettle and a 1 gallon glass jug of what I wanted to keep warm.
I use an old dorm fridge for my fermentation chamber. The fridge itself gets plugged into the cold outlet. I then use a small $10 heater from Amazon plugged into the heat outlet. Right now I have a saison fermenting at 90'F. Previously I had a kolsch lagering at 45'F.
It's a very versatile device.
Not OP, but I'm pretty sure those Inkbird controllers are the ITC-308. They have two outlets so you can plug in both a heat and a cool source. They go for $34 on Amazon - I've got them on my keezer and my fermentation chamber. They haven't let me down yet, and a pretty good price.
id toss both, the blue light isnt any better, order a 100W ceramic heat emitter bulb and a thermostat off amazon.
Thats a good idea. I already have one for a keezer that I have at my house. To convert it are you just buying a temperature controller like this or going more heavy duty and official?
You're welcome! If a heater fails in the "on" position it could wipe out your tank. That's why I don't recommend using them unless you are sure you need it. And then you might even want to consider a controller like this one. https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=asc_df_B01HXM5UAC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198101685250&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12360615163319983582&hvpone=&hvptwo=&...
We use a controller with a temperature sensor attached like this. The freezer, instead of being directly plugged into an electrical outlet, is instead plugged into the controller which is then plugged into the wall. The sensor goes inside the freezer. When the sensor senses it's above the temperature we choose it turns on the freezer to get cold. When it's at or below the temperature we choose it cuts off the freezer from getting any electricity thus shutting it off.
It's not the healthiest thing for the freezer as that's not really what they were built to do, but as long as you're not running the compressor in quick succession you're usually ok for a while. Most controllers have a timer where you can choose not to have the power reinstated until a time limit has been reached, like 8-10 minutes.
I have a basic window unit with mechanical controls in my office. Just plugged it into one of these and called it a day.
Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/
The thermostat on most refrigerators can swing +/- 5 F or more, so it'll keep your food cold but it's not super accurate. Most people use something like an Inkbird ITC-308. To use it: you plug the inkbird into the wall, set your allowable temperatures on the inkbird, set the fridge to be as cold as possible, put the thermocouple in the fridge, and plug the fridge into the "cooling" outlet on the inkbird.
The quick lager method from brulosophy works extremely well. They've also shown that WLP830, Wyeast 2124, Saglager 34/70, Imperial L13, as well as Imperial L17 have produced an extremely good lager beer fermented at 66F.
Even at typical lager fermentation temperature, it does not take 8 weeks to ferment. It would be more like 2 weeks to ferment and then some choose to lager for additional time. Historically, the additional time was to allow the beer to naturally clarify. We can do the same thing in a few days with gelatin. I'll admit a lager changes after a couple weeks in the keg, but after that it is pretty set in it's flavor profile.
To answer the OP, yes any kegerator/fridge/keezer is perfect for fermentation temperature control, just add a temperature controller.
It’s a good point with GFCI but it is protecting you against quite a few hazards. If you’re worried over that then I would look into a GFCI breaker on wherever that outlet runs. They’re a little safer I think but most people are probably hesitant to toy with their breaker box. I think it’s an easy install, but don’t quote me on that!
So you can do that with loc line or have it set up so your nozzle breaks the surface quickly enough that little water is drained. I mentioned the Random Flow Generator or Inductor nozzles as they have open slits to force water in and add current, and these slits break the siphon quickly without forcing your nozzle to face directly upwards.
What do you mean by glue both sides of the bulkhead? I normally stick to threaded fittings in case it ever needs changed. Don’t use Teflon tape though as it’s not recommended for the tapered threading. Use Teflon/PTFE paste or whatever it is called.
With four heaters you should run them on a strip to a controller just in case. It’s a cheap addition and can handle a chiller too.
These are all small nitpicks though, overall you’re definitely going to be set for a pretty nice setup.
The fridge is hooked up to a temperature sensor, so it only runs when the internal temp is above 75 degrees F. The temp controller turns off the fridge when the temp gets to 75 degrees F.
I'm going to add a heating mat to the inside back wall of the fridge so the temp controller can warm up the fridge when it gets below 75 degrees F
here's the temperature controller I use.
Or...if you want to go all in....go get you a chest freezer and one of these. Careful though, its a slippery slope into a endless hunt for the next upgrade.
With those fluctuations in temperature and the humidity issues, it sounds like you’d be better off spending your money on buying a temperature control unit online (~$35 for an Inkbird) and trying to find an inexpensive chest freezer on Craigslist. I know that isn’t a utilization of the crawl space, but it would yield way better cellaring conditions. Which, in theory, should yield better cellared beers. Or maybe just less spoiled by temperature fluctuations, etc.
VPD is important. But you don't have to hit numbers exactly.
Best way to maintain moisture in a dry climate is with your ventilation. A programmable thermostat will let you keep your exhaust off until it's needed. Which allows humidity to build.
I'm in a cold, dry winter climate, too. I tell the fans to kick on at 77 degrees, and off at 74. Even in a 60 degree, 30% RH ambient room, my tent RH stays in a happy range 90% of the time.
Hi are you by any chance referring to this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=asc_df_B01HXM5UAC5114756/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B01HXM5UAC&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198101685250&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2806952839949716824&hvpone=&hvp...
It seems like they're used for terrariums and plants? I do have a crockpot and im actually pretty intrigued.
We're the same way, but I'm thinking about buying myself one this fall with the knowledge that it will only be used occasionally. We're not getting a vacuum sealer because they're incredibly wasteful and we don't freeze all that much food. I'm also not spending the money on a true immersion unit so I'll likely just go with a controller like this plugged into our crock pot.
> 40 gal screen top tank
> No thermostat as there is a thick layer of substrate in the tank
/r/ballpython 's worse nightmare. Haha
I see you live in Southern (?) Florida, that's a huge reason why you haven't had an issue keeping the way you have. Decent on/off thermostats like this Inkbird are so cheap there's pretty much no reason not to have one. Check out /r/ballpythons sticky thread. I'm sure you can agree that even if you haven't had an issue in all this time that there's always room for improvement. Here's to 20 more!
I had this problem and solved it by putting a duct fan at the furthest vent hooked up to a temperature controlled outlet inside the duct.
Inkbird ITC-308 Digital... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You're going to want to pick up something like this. You set a temperature and an acceptable threshold (i have mine varying by only one degree), and it will automatically turn the heat lamp off and on to keep it at a consistant temperature.
I also have a under-tank heat mat for my hot side, which is the main thing used to warm my snake. I absolutely recommend getting one to put under your tank. Corns like to burrow and will get more benefit to having one on the hot side. I just use the heat lamp to keep the ambient air in the tank at an acceptable level. You will want to get a separate controller for the heat mat.
Edit: I also have an Indoor/Outdoor Thermometer just chilling in the tank to get a more accurate reading inside. Your tank atmosphere is going to usually be a bit different than the atmosphere in your room. I have the "inside" number reading the ambient temp of the tank, the "outside" number reading the inside of the under-tank mat (controller probe goes between mat and glass on the outside, and this prob sticks to the glass on the inside under the substrate), and it also tells me the humidity in the tank.
You want to keep your numbers as consistant as possible. I like to shoot for 85 degrees on the hot side, 75 degrees on the cool side, and between 40%-60% humidty. I hope this information helps. Let me know if you have any questions.
Edit 2: GoHerping does a great care guide video on YouTube, which is where I got most of my setup and care info from. There is also a link to their discord on the YouTube page that is full of friendly people that can answer a lot of your questions.
Edit 3: You're going to be better off using a Ceramic Heat Emitter instead of a bulb. It just produces heat and no light, which will be better with the controller ( you don't want the light isn't constantly turning off and on). Corns don't need UVB either, and do fine with just natural lighting (assuming the light in the room still follows the normal day/night cycle).
This controller is made just for that. If you plug the chest freezer into it, it will keep the temp at whatever you set it. Only $15
Id keep her at 75 risky going higher
It actually does the cooling, you get an inkbird thermostat and plug the freezer in to it. Set the temp where you want it and it turns the power on and off to keep it at temp. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_gYjIFbBEDSEKF
No worries, and cheers. I used a chest freezer and one of those Inkbird temperature controllers. I also bought this stainless thermowell that I attached to my fermentor. Put the probe from the Inkbird inside the well. Gave me complete control during the process.
Inkbird makes inexpensive controllers that are simple to set up and use with a freezer. Commonly used in home brewing and kegerator setups.
My suggestion would be a kegging setup, so:
With a system like that you could carb up meads/wines after they've been stabilized and back sweetened. You could also dip you toe into beer brewing, if that was something that interested you. I've also used my kegs to carbonate water for making pop and cocktails.
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I got my start with this kit form Adventures in Homebrewing: https://www.homebrewing.org/Homebrew-Kegging-Kit-BALL-LOCK-no-keg_p_1673.html
It includes the regulator, hoses, connectors, and a tap, with the option to adda CO2 tank. I choose to add the CO2 tank but you might not need to buy a tank if there is a good homebrew shop near you they sometimes "rent" CO2 tanks. AIH also sells new and used corny kegs, but you might find better deals on places like FB Marketplace.
For a temp controller I went with this on off amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HXM5UAC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Depending on what you get for a fridge/freezer and the price and how many kegs you get that should be within your budget.
You could throw one of these on whatever size fridge/freezer you want. I've thought about doing the same with a mini-fridge: https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=asc_df_B01HXM5UAC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198101685250&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10641550540721981334&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027404&hvtargid=pla-318107594620&psc=1
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When I used to brew beer I made a fermentation chamber out of one of these and an old reach in freezer. Worked great at keeping the temp at whatever range you set. All you have to do is drill a hole in the side/back to insert the probe. Then the temp controller hangs on out outside, turning the fridge off/on to keep it in the desired range.
These are great for temperature control: https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC
I have one for controlling beer fermentation temperature and it works very well and is easy to use. Pug your fan into the cooling socket and a small heater of sorts to the heating socket. Depending on the temperatures OP is dealing with I would recommend a seed warming mat (used to keep seeds warm for germination) in the cage but not with the batteries directly resting on them. They provide a gentle 20w of heat spread out well but they will get hot if you put something directly on them and the heat can't escape.
What you can do is use a thermostat socket such as this one from inkbird (Amazon.com) (amazon.co.uk). It will turn on the fermentation belt when it drops below a certain temperature.
yes, it will get too cold once winter hits, you will need to add a heating mechanism of some sort. A common approach is to use a ceramic heating lamp connected to a temperature controller like the inkbird ITC-308. The nice thing about this controller is that it can also be used in the summer to control the refrigerator to a higher than normal temp, like 55ºf for curing, whereas the standard temperature for fridges is about 37ºf.
All joking aside, Inkbird makes a decent thermostatic controller. I have one set up to run a refrigerator for curing meat, but it also has a heater output that could be used to run like a heat lamp for this type of application, it takes 120v in and puts out 120v to whatever device you want.
Its 26 dollars, but you could even get the Wifi one for $10 moreif you want to remotely track the temps.
I used a govee one off amazon -- you can pull info on your phone with an app to see historical data. Something like this would be slick, so it's automated. https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=sxin_14_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.38deba80-70f1-44b5-9ee5-a7944caadcc1%3Aamzn1.sym.38deba80-70f1-44b5-9ee5-a7944caadcc1&crid=QT9ZHFE8WPB8&cv_ct_cx=temperature+sensitive+electrical&keywords=temperature+sensitive+electrical&pd_rd_i=B01HXM5UAC&pd_rd_r=889b8947-cb2a-44f3-9d57-f3a6c4f55906&pd_rd_w=SEAkU&pd_rd_wg=L4bsp&pf_rd_p=38deba80-70f1-44b5-9ee5-a7944caadcc1&pf_rd_r=PRX2M57559TVM4YGA0DB&qid=1663358519&smid=A1RUFFFCQ74BCW&sprefix=temperature+sensitive+electr%2Caps%2C214&sr=1-1-a73d1c8c-2fd2-4f19-aa41-2df022bcb241-spons&psc=1
A temperature controller such as an inkbird can be set at a specific temperature you want the beer to ferment at.
For example you set it up like this:
You can get the inkbird controller for $35 on Amazon.
The controller with the screen will stay out of thqr fridge, and the temperature probe can be placed in the fridge (attached to the side of a fermentor).
For a heating element you have some options. You could get a heating mat, wire or a belt for around the fermentor. As you have a full size fridge, I suggest the heating wire. You can assemblee the wire across the sides of the fridge.
On the inkbird there are two outlets, 1 for cooling (here you insert the plug from the fridge, and 1 for heating (here you insert the plug from the heating element).
If you are still unsure on how to do it, go to youtube and watch tutorials.
Sidenote: the wood you placed in the fridge will get soggy over time as there will be moisture in the fridge. So you want to weather/water proof the wooden frame.
Most beerstyles don't need to be aged that long (from fall to summer). But if you want to brew a beer you can age, you want to brew a dark strong beer such as a barleywine, or a stout of about 9% ABV or higher.
For a detailed recipe I would look on brewersfriend where you can browse people's recipes and see how many people have brewed them and reported the results. (Make sure that the yeast you use is within range of the ambient temperature at which you will let it ferment).
https://www.brewersfriend.com/search/
As you describe you want to brew beer in the periods where the ambient temperature is too high for your wine/mead yeast, you might want to look into getting temperature control so you can brew whatever you want, whenever you want.
I bought a used fridge for 10 bucks and an inkbird temperature controller, which you can buy on Amazon for 35 bucks. https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=1YAKQD828A9WA&keywords=inkbird+controller&qid=1658815993&sprefix=inkbird+controer%2Caps%2C189&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&...
Depending of how cheap you can get a fridge/freezer you have good temperature control for a low budget.
There really isn't much to this setup,
Here is a shot of the Inkbird Thermostat mounted on the side of the freezer with 3M tape, you plug the freezer into this device. There is a temp probe on a wire (that I ran inside the freezer) and after setting it to 60 degrees with a 1 degree differential, it will cycle the freezer power as follows:
- off when 60 degrees is reached
- back on when 61 degrees is reached
- rinse and repeat
I then placed this humidifier inside and setup the app to 40% on automatic (after some trial and error I found this actually achieves 60%)
I then placed a few of these on the bottom as you can see blowing the air upward, just to keep it moving around.
The freezer will dry the air inside out by design but this humidifier seems to last the whole drying process without needing refilled, I also bought a small dehumidifier but have not needed it.
I just taped all the wires down tight into the door jam.
I think you might be confusing thermostat with a thermometer, thermometers measure the temperature while thermostats are used to regulate the heat source.
If you put a thermostat on the ceramic heat emitter to be able to decide what temperature it should be, it might get hotter(depending on the wattage). Lamps that aren’t on thermostats typically have either too low or too high temperatures since it’s not regulated
Here are a couple thermostats on Amazon
Most of the cost is going to be in caging and in a good thermostat. Animal Plastics makes some really nice, high-quality enclosures, and you can poke around that site for an idea of what they'll cost. I use the T25s for mine, but if you can afford it, bigger is always better (at least for adults). You can always use cheap grow-out Sterilite tubs until the boa hits 3-4 ft or so, and then upgrade to the adult-sized habitat.
A thermostat will run about $35-$150, and is an extremely important piece of equipment because it's what will control the temperature of your heating element. I recommend the Herpstat, which is expensive, but honestly worth every penny. A more economical thermostat would be Inkbird.
For heating options, there are lots of choices. I like radiant heat panels. [Hide boxes])https://www.reptilebasics.com/hide-boxes) can be plain, but inexpensive. Climbing branches and other such cage decor can be as simple or elaborate as you want -- I like to get stuff like that from craft stores like Michael's, or from garden centers.
One of these guys would handle a window AC just fine
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC/
If the danby doesn't have a fan on the evaporator, you can control the temperature with something like an Inkbird. Set the dial to all the way cold, and plug the kegerator in to the "cooling" outlet on the Inkbird:
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC
If the T-stat is defective, you may have to bypass the T-stat.
However, there are other things than cause the foaming...
You can buy a custom size “reptile heat mat” here:
https://incubatorwarehouse.com/repti-warm-heat-mat.html
Wrap it around your fermenter and use some Velcro fabric to secure it:
Hook it up to an Inkbird:
Here's the controller and heater I have.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_NNKXVAE1V4Q5M883P750
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC?ref\_=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_ud\_dp\_NNKXVAE1V4Q5M883P750
This is a problem present in home brewing as you often need to maintain tight tolerances on temperature ranges for optimal fermentation.
You could add an Inkbird temperature controller to any fridge or freezer to keep it at your desired temp.
If you can submerge a stainless steel coil into your liquid, you can attach it to a glycol chiller and just insulate your vessel.
So I ended up buying a grow tent/3d Printer enclosure, a temperature regulator, and a mini heater. I originally started with a box from my computer tower, but it was a little tight for my liking and my anxiety made me worry about the box catching on fire. I have to turn everything on for a solid hour or so before printing to heat the enclosure as well as the resin in the vat.
Links to the things I bought:
Enclosure Tent : Now i'm not to crazy about the big window in the front, but I still run the machine with the cover on and the tent isn't in direct sunlight.
This controller will work great but costs as much as a new crockpot.
Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_X295NZ6BNKHPMKT7NBE9
You can put whatever smaller heater you want but needs to be self-regulating with a thermostat. Ideally a controlling unit with a temperature probe inside. Just search "heaters for grow tents" on Google. Also look at:
I agree, it does sound like a thermostat problem. I'd use one of these temp controllers:
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=sr_1_3
Homebrewers use these all the time on fridges and chest freezers to control temperature. Turn your thermostat all the way down to the coldest setting, and plug the kegerator into the cooling outlet on the inkbird, and run the inkbird probe past the door seal into the kegerator.
This should work temporarily until you can get the thing fixed.
Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
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Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-… | $35.00 | $35.00 | 4.6/5.0 |
^Item&nbsp;Info | Bot&nbsp;Info | Trigger
Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
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Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-… | $35.00 | $35.00 | 4.6/5.0 |
^Item&nbsp;Info | Bot&nbsp;Info | Trigger
I use a chest freezer (I have this one, but I wanted it to take up less space, this one only fits one carboy). I have the chest freezer plugged into the "cool" side of an Inkbird controller. I use a seedling heating mat plugged into the "heat" side of the Inkbird controller, although really any kind of heater or heating pad will work here.
Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
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Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-… | $35.00 | - | 4.6/5.0 |
^Item&nbsp;Info | Bot&nbsp;Info | Trigger
Oh damn – that's even simpler than the one I ended up finding: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HXM5UAC/ (although I like that this one can maybe turn on a fan if it starts getting hot?)
I got a chest freezer for free and I bought a separate temperature control module to use it as a fridge
This is what I bought: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_PX6BJKRHA0XXM3CC5PGB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
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Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-… | $35.00 | $35.00 | 4.6/5.0 |
^Item&nbsp;Info | Bot&nbsp;Info | Trigger
Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
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Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-… | $35.00 | $35.00 | 4.6/5.0 |
^Item&nbsp;Info | Bot&nbsp;Info | Trigger
Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
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Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-… | $35.00 | $35.00 | 4.6/5.0 |
^Item&nbsp;Info | Bot&nbsp;Info | Trigger
Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
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Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-… | $35.00 | $35.00 | 4.6/5.0 |
^Item&nbsp;Info | Bot&nbsp;Info | Trigger
Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
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Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-… | $35.00 | $35.00 | 4.6/5.0 |
^Item&nbsp;Info | Bot&nbsp;Info | Trigger
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Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-… | $35.00 | $35.00 | 4.6/5.0 |
^Item&nbsp;Info | Bot&nbsp;Info | Trigger
Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_oaLoJrcxBn9T3
You can buy things like this and plug your heater in behind the controller. That way if your heater ever fails and attempts to over heat, the controller will cut the power.
I assume you're a homebrewer. Why can't you lager?
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC
https://www.amazon.com/Brewing-Fermentation-Homebrew-Fermenting-Heating/dp/B072V15ZK2
https://vermont.craigslist.org/app/d/salisbury-haier-cu-ft-chest-freezer/7386115342.html
Basically my old setup (my heater was way more dangerous and my temp controller was a DIY monster). Temperature controlled ferm chamber, $150. Plug the heat pad into the heat part, the freezer in the cold one. Place fermenter and heating mat in the chamber with the dehumidifier and set the temp you want.
I have of these hooked up inline with the heaters on all my tanks over 10 gallons: https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC
Costs more than the heater but less than restocking (especially when you're keeping cichlids that can run you $10-20+ eaches).
Hack yourself some active temperature control with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_dl_9MNWKP0W08CBGW32A6TV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Use one of these along with a slowcooker that has an analog (low / med / hot) dial. It won't work with one with electronics.
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https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC
​
That will let you set whatever temp you want, and the temp probe makes it turn on and off electric to the slow cooker. I used to use one for doing sous vide until I bought an Anova.
They make small temperature controlers like this that would do the trick: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_dl_1ZVT33W2T53W3A6WK36G?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
In a fridge a pretty small heater should do the trick
Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8P7PMQ1850XF9NHHZZ8G
1) It’s kind of large and unattractive so you’d have to hide it.
2) I’m not sure if you’re in the usa or if they make a non usa version.
3) it’s not “smart”, no wifi, nothing but a plug and a set point.
But if those 3 points don’t deter you….
Inkbird ITC-308 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/
Edit : i see now it looks like you’re in NL, so maybe this.
https://www.amazon.nl/dp/B072BXC76Z/
Edit 2 : It goes without saying that if your blower fan is hardwired you’d need to add a plug and a receptacle in order for this to work. Depending on your skills, you might need to contact a qualified electrician.
Tent (I am currently using my sideways)
You'd likely be able to find cheaper on the Heater & Fan if you shopped @ a local hardware shop. I will be going to one to get dryer venting for the exhaust. Depending on where you are in the world, tents are a bit more expensive on the east coast US right now.
On this site you can order different sizes of this heat tape for super cheap:
https://www.reptilebasics.com/heat-tape/12-heat-tape-connected/
Plug it into an Inkbird:
And away you go. I ferment in my basement which stays in the low 50s and just heat from there.
That looks like a rebranded Inkbird ITC-308 which can be had for a little cheaper on Amazon (and is a prime item). It's $35 and has a 15% off coupon for it, making it $30 atm.
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https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC/
Something like this but mine is 30a capable. Got a few a couple years ago.
I did my first ribeye without humidity and found the meat lost too much moisture to where the meat wasn’t very juicy even though well marbled. Introducing the humidifier and and raising to 75-90% RH made all the difference. Can’t speak for the bags but I would assume they would also benefit from humidity.
I use this humidifier which you can set humidity on. It’s inaccurate but you can put a hygrometer in there to manually calibrate or get a humidity controller. I found setting it to 50% RH on low setting actually results in 75-90% RH. humidifier
I use the ink bird temp controller as I’m sure many do on here for it’s simplicity — it’s plug and play. I know people who use it for beer brewing and mushroom growing as well, it works well. temp controller
Inkbird also makes humidity controller which I’m sure works well if you bought a humidifier where you can’t set the target RH.
Martha Build 1.0
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This is a simple list of Items Used and the location I purchased from with prices @ time of build.
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=pe_825000_114665720_TE_item
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https://www.amazon.com/HOME_CHOICE-Personal-Electric-Adjustable-Thermostat/dp/B07W7HZ9QT
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https://thehouseofhydro.com/collections/all-products/products/humidistat-humidity-controller
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https://thehouseofhydro.com/collections/all-products/products/waterproof-fans?variant=32065413185673
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Menards,Lowes, Walmart
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Menards,Lowes
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Total Price $231.98
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As this set up is subject to change. Example My fan quit working correctly after 3 days now looking at forced air like air pump from large fish tank. Also thinking of changing the hose out to 1/2"ID pvc with 4 top outlet spots.
Building this is very simple!
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Tent setup
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Bucket setup
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All updates to items used will follow 1.01
My spelling sucks so please dont be the grammar police.
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If you can aford it, i advice you to buy a temperature switch such as this one :
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With this you can have maximum fog time, wich i think would be beneficial but that's supposition.
I have old school tech, I have an old STC-1000 (TheBlackBox) with a FermWrap. Nowadays the fridge/bulb or wrap is the way to go with one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=psdc_306533011_t3_B00Y8T9YZG
I have a winefridge I pull the racks out of and use when I need chilling. Typically my basement is <67'F year-round so I'm almost always just heating unless it's a lager.
Yes, you can buy separate temperature regulators. Check out:
I personally own #2 and would recommend - been using it for almost 2 years now.
The term you are looking for is "temperature controller". There are lots for many different applications. Example: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/
> If so, would I be able to use some sort of temperature regulation device that can override the kegerator and it still function?
Yes. The inkbird is a common one.
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Are you looking for something like this?
An inkbird is prolly what you're looking for. Not crazy expensive.
Heating easy, and not that expensive (cooling is where it gets pricey)
Plug one of these: https://www.reptilebasics.com/heat-tape
Into this: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tLQnFbWNV6TVM
Focus on Saison or Kveik yeast, both ferment hotter than your ambient temp so it’s easy to raise the temp to what they want. Some English and Belgian yeasts like to ferment warm too, just do some research into yeasts and you’ll find some that are happy at pretty much any temp.
Deal link: Amazon
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I'm not sure what a raspberry pi pid is. I found this on Amazon, it says it goes to ~248*, think this would work? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_85hMEbF1AAN7K
How much are you making? In the early days of home sous vide, when the only options were expensive devices made for commercial or lab applications, people used a PID Controller with an analog rice cooker. The rice cooker plugs into the PID controller. The PID controller has a thermocouple probe which relays the temperature in the rice cooker, so it can use the heating element to maintain a constant temperature.
Commercial PID controllers are resonably priced, and there are plans available to build your own.
Here is a PID Controller on Amazon for under $40.
Here is info on a Do-it-yourself set up: Cheap and Effective Sous Vide Cooker--Arduino Powered.
Cheaper setup alternative is to buy these things from amazon...
If you go this route and something goes wrong you can replace the heating element for like 10-12usd... (protip keep it immersed)
Also you can add a fish tank water pump to circulate water to keep things super nice and even water temp wise in the bath.
Total cost for both is like 46usd? vs ~100usd for food cooking heater that's only like 750watt heater
Temp controller:
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC/
Immersion heater:
https://www.amazon.com/Diximus-1000W-110V-Portable-Electric-Immersion/dp/B07WC953L4/
>ITC-308 and WiFi ITC-308 are loved by our a lot of home brewing customers.
>
>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC
ITC-308 and WiFi ITC-308 are loved by our a lot of home brewing customers.
Put those prices in Checkmate.
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Yeah, no problem! I bought this thermometer and this fan. My aquarium is 29 gallons, so you may need to get a different fan if yours is larger.
get a thermostat, like this one https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC, it will turn off the light if it overheats.
Is this temp controller good?
Inkbird ITC-308 Max.1200W Heater, Cool Device Temperature Controller, Carboy, Fermenter, Greenhouse Terrarium Temp. Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MZGABb46B6674
Of course. You need it. In order to keep the temperature balance. I advise you connect the light and fan to one heat and cool temperature controller.
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC or a product like it.