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Shoot. YouTube is your friend. Learning how to check voltages and current consumption will help with battery related projects. Also look up videos about measuring resistance (ohms) Walmart or a harbor freight should have cheap multimeters you can snag up. Amazon has a decent one $20 link I used that one along side my fluke for projects.
I feel the same way about the weight of the matias qc (I’m assuming that’s what you used since Phil likes them a lot). I haven’t switched to a different type though, just been working on other things I suppose.
Good idea about bridging. If you have a breadboard and/or some alligator clips you might be able to see an led pulse while you hold the switch down, but it might be too fast, not really sure. Seems like a good time to get an inexpensive multi meter though!
Fwiw, this is the one I got and it’s been acceptable. I don’t know what I’m missing from getting a better one, but maybe this saves you some research time: INNOVA 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter [link]
I’ve had this one for 5 years (according to amazon’s purchase history) and its always been great. I even just used it last weekend to test some stuff on my car. I’ve never changed the battery. I mainly bought it because it was cheap and well-reviewed on amazon. Never regretted not buying a more-expensive Fluke. This has been great.
Thanks, this was really helpful! Since with this blog I finally better understood the process of building pedals, I’ve made up my mind about getting into this and learning as much as possible. It’s a great blog.
I do have a follow up question thou. I’m now making a list of tools I’ll need to get for the job, I already have a few but I’m missing a multimeter. Would this one be good enough?
Yes - major. A digital meter provides three digit numbers. An example:
These are available in Sears. In stores that also sell hammers and auto repair tools. In Walmart for maybe $18. In Harbor Freight sometimes for only $6.
No results can exist if you do not obtain (request) the second item. Second item (instructions) says what to do.
You can use nay 12v battery you'd like to that can supply the cca (cold cranking amps) to the motor to get it started, I have a designated large car battery to do this.
I wouls strongly suggest that you invest in a multimeter of some sort. I do not own the one linked but based on the reviews it can't be that bad for the price. and see what the voltage of the battery is, if it is above 11v I would consider the battery to be salvageable and try to recharge it. if not, yes I would get a new battery. Just know that while you are troubleshooting the bike that you should have a way to charge the battery. I used to just hook up leads from my car battery to my bike to do the testing; relying on the alternator of the ca to get the battery charged as I drove it.
Yes, a good place to start would be the battery, next I would test for spark: take the spark plug cap off, unbolt the plug, put the cap backon and ground the plug to the engine by holding threads up to the engine case (bare metal). and then try turning on the bike looking for small spark jumping at the tip. That should be good if he said it was running sporadically. then, again I would assume the carb is the main problem.
Thanks for the kind words. And doesn't hurt giving important advice like shut the circuit and test it. I do know to do that but given the dangers involved... I don't mind hearing it!
Would this multimeter tool work as a voltage tester? I used it to test the current on parts of my dryer to see what needed to be replaced.
If not, any specific recommended voltage tester?
an Amp clamp? do you mean an Amps setting on my multi meter?
I picked up a multi meter to help diagnose this problem (and other problems down the line) and have mostly been following instructions on use....
I got this one [link]
I am guessing It's the yellow setting on the bottom left DC10A
OR is this something on the water heter?
Corrected location of setting I described.
Do you have a multimeter?
Set it AC and check the R wire w/ the hot (red) lead and the C should be your negative/common (black) and the multimeter should show about 24V.
this is like an outlet where you have a positive and a neutral wire, these 2 wire are what the ecobee needs at minimum to turn on.
I'd highly recommend getting a halfway decent multimeter if you don't have one. Given that you'll have more electrical work to do (and test) after initial diagnosis, you'll get a LOT of value out of a decent multimeter.
Something like this won't break the bank, and all the major functionality you will need to troubleshoot:
Ok, so I just discovered my multimeter (which I haven't used in years) has a broken screen, so I'm waiting for a new one from amazon. I'm guessing what you're going to say is to test the TRS on the broken phone against the solder point. I'll contact you again when I have it on Sunday. In the meantime, I'm learning all I can about wire replacement and that awesome-looking Kramer method.
I just finished building a very similar setup this weekend.
Although it sounds like you have everything wired correctly, a picture of how the wires running on board would be helpful to make sure nothing is wired incorrectly.
Also, if you do not have one, you really should consider getting a digital multi meter. They don't have to be expensive and in this case it would have likely saved you money if you had checked the voltages before connecting. Here is the one I use and it works perfectly well for anything you would need to test on a quad.
No. It will not hurt to put a charged battery on a charger. The charger should automatically turn off when the pack is full. If it's already full it may run for like....a couple of seconds and then turn off.
Blitz818 has the right idea with getting a multimeter. I bought this one and it doubles for solving all my short circuits and load calculations
the cap didn't swell, and it looks clean.
and I am using the cheap one Harbor Freight and another one from Amazon (apparently a best seller), they both don't have Capacitance measurement; but I will probably pick up a 'real' MM.
I have this one, but you don't need to spend more than $20 on one. Make sure you take the inherant resistence in your leads into account when you test your RDA.
Your post needs a little clarification. When you say voltmeter people are thinking about a digital multimeter. Since you mentioned it has a switched connection I'm assuming you're talking about a permanent fixture in your car that displays your battery's voltage?
26 gauge wire is very small - you would solder it to another wire generally. Strip back about 1/4" of insulation on the wire your connecting to and strip back about 1" of insulation on the 26 gauge wire. Then wrap the exposed part of the 26 gauge wire around the 1/4" exposure a few times and solder it then either shrink wrap or electrical tape the connection up. No need to use butt connectors.
This is concerning, the nominal voltage range for an 18650 is 3.6-3.7 and the maximum voltage on a full charge might hit closer to 4.3v. What charger are you using, and what volt meter.
I would still recommend picking up a true multi meter, it dosen't have to be a fluke or a klein, just something that gives an accurate reading.
That's a great one too, cheap, reliable, moderately fast auto ranging. I wouldn't use it for measuring high current/voltage but for hobbyist purposes it's great.
I got this one from Amazon based on another Redditor's suggestion. Was working great until the battery died. Good thing Amazon is good w/ returns and replacements.
That is overkill for what you need. You can normally find them for under $10 bucks at harbor freight. Parts places would have some, but might bend you over for one. If you want a nice one for the money this is the one I have:
Also, you do not need a test light if you have a multimeter, you can set it to audible continuity test and it will beep if you have power.
There is a crapton of good multimeters out there at various prices. In the $30 price class, I have several of this model and they work well:
If you don't have one, they're pretty cheap on Amazon: link
I use one of these on every electrical project on my jeep for sure
Just be sure the multimeter has a DC amp and a milliamp mode - most do. 10a should be fine. There are tons of cheap no-name varieties on Amazon. I have had good luck with Innova products, and would probably encourage spending the extra... this one is is $30 and does everything you need it to:
Thanks for taking the time. I must be old school because I just pull out my multimeter which has a built in load-test.
But I'm more of a 'is it dead or not' type of person.
Perfect! This is the meter I have and saw I should use the Ohm setting? [link]
8Baker's suggestions are how I would do it.
Before you buy anything, you can check to see if it's working with a DMM (digital multi meter). If you don't have one, they're one of the first tools you should buy when working with electronics. A $20 one from Amazon or Walmart is fine.
In this case, what you'll use the DMM for is to check that there's voltage in that red wire when the van is on. So put it on some voltage setting that's above 14V (if it's not an automatically detecting one, usually there's a 20V setting). On your DMM you want the two prongs to be plugged into the proper DC ports. Then, touch the red prong to the the red wire and the black prong to some exposed metal anywhere on your van frame. It should read at 0 volts. DMM
Then turn the van on and do the same. It should read somewere between 13.2V-14.2V. If this is the case, then your system is working properly to charge the secondary battery. Do this first before buying a battery, etc.
After that, follow 8Baker's suggestions. The red wire will attach to the (+) terminal of your battery. It is highly suggested that you get an in-line fuse or battery terminal fuse for this as the wire will be hot and can send a lot of current in the wrong direction if it rubs against the metal frame. Battery terminal fuse here
I don't see a ground wire. This will be a big black wire that attaches to your frame somewhere and the (-) terminal of your battery. If it's missing, you might need to buy another one. It completes the loop of current from your alternator. The current travels to the (+) post of your battery but must be able to return back through the (-) post to the alternator to charge.
Here is what the whole system looks like visually:
(item #6 is the ground wire which you might need to buy if this one is missing)
After that, follow 8Baker's recommendations for a fuse box. AC Inverters are less efficient than staying at 12V so if you don't need one then avoid it. If you do want an inverter, the instructions to hook one up are on that Parked In Paradise website as well.
This might sound complicated, but as far as DIY it's fairly simple once you have the parts in your hands.
This is the one I used, had it turned to the ohm symbol: [link]
Really most any cheap brand is good for a home owner who only does this occasionally. With a occasional use you definitely want to remove the battery between uses.
Here's one that has all the functions you'll need.
INNOVA 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter [link]
I professionally use this one (Fluke is very popular brand among professionals):
Fluke T5600 Electrical Voltage, Continuity and Current Tester [link]
This kit comes with an outlet tester and a non contact tester. Klein is another professional brand. I use this kit at home. I actually got it as a Christmas gift from work a couple of years ago. It works quite well.
Klein Tools 69149 Electrical Test Kit [link]
The non contact tester is very handy for identifying the hot wire. It's commonly referred to as a "widow maker" because a neutral wire carries current when it's in use. Don't assume the neutral is dead when using a non contact tester. I use one every day, but before I touch a wire with my hands I use a contact tester.
Go pick up an arduino kit, a few boards, an iron and solder.
The arduino kit will help with the physical electrical aspect, resistors, leds, servos, positive and negative, and it help with the theory/text book stuff such as amps, ohms, voltages etc.
Pick up a multimeter and look up how to test resistance , voltages, conductivity.
You can practice the soldering by putting led and resistors on a board. The arduino has tons of material for simple projects that include the code. So if the coding part doesn’t interest you, just copy the example
Code and build the circuit on the included breadboard. Then move the circuit into a blank soldering board
And make sure to research any questions instead of just asking someone who knows the answer. The reason I suggest research on your own first is there’s a lot to learn in the tech industry. The more you read the more you’ll familiarize yourself with key words, go to forums, and terminology.
I’ve been using the Innova 3320 for a few years. I don’t use it all that often but it has worked great for my needs.
It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!
Here is link number 1 - Previous text "DMM"
^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete
It does not look like the switches are the problem... I have not done a minidox, but from this build guide it looks like you might have soldered the jumpers for the left and right side, SJ1 and SJ2 wrong. Your photo is too blurry to tell for sure but it looks like all three pads are soldered together? This is how it should look. Also, do you have a multimeter to test your reset switch and the diode orientation? Did you take any shots of your diode side before you soldered the switches and switch plate on?
Take a look at SJ1 & SJ2 and see if you can clean that up and test that they are jumpered correctly and lets go from there.
I am far from perfect, but here is how I solder my switches and components... Contra, and close up... Clean and Smooth :) This is a good shot of the PM, switches and diodes from my Gherkin See how the solder curves up the sides of the switch? Like cones and not globs or balls.
It is a dance... apply iron to hole and component, add the solder, remove solder then remove the iron in just the right time to not get a cold solder and not too long to warp the switch so it either doesn't work on give double presses and then it has to be removed and replaced.
The solder will flow to the heat... it like heat... I try to keep most of the contact with the pcb and less to the switch cause then the solder flows it will add heat to the switch... hope that makes sense. Once you get the groove, it feels so good.
Hope you can get your minidox working. looks like a cool board!
So i think my multimeter doesnt have enough ranges to test the variety of different settings on.
i ended up giving up. I dont think my multimeter does is able to read the different sizes or idk but I am getting a lot of misleading things and my head hurts from organizing by color. Can anyone recommend if one of these will be good?
1) INNOVA 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter
2) AstroAI Digital Multimeter with Ohm Volt Amp and Diode Test
3) Crenova MS8233D Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter
For the multimeter, I have this one and it works perfectly fine. That module you linked won't work, though. That ~~mudole's~~ module's minimum input is 4V, and the Pocket runs on 3V with fresh batteries. Something more like this module would work. I could be wrong though, as I've never done this mod; I just shoved a lithium-ion battery into my Pocket and it works great.
Also, going down the rabbit hole is really fun! I started with the ~~backoight~~ backlight mod, then I did a prosound, then a USB rechargeable battery, then a bass boost, then an amplifier, and I'm debating doing a bivert, though with how little space is left after the preceding mess, I probably can't. :P
EDIT: Wow I butchered the spelling of "module"
EDIT2: And the spelling of "backlight"
Something like this:
How would i check the alternator with this?
So basically digital only?
So will this be a good choice? INNOVA 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter [link]
If you can afford a $300 3D printer, you can afford a $20 multimeter.
You're on the right track and dancing around the crux of the issue.
I believe that the indicator is for "low voltage", and this happens because of voltage drop across a circuit if there isn't enough current.
A definitive way to measure if you've got enough current to your RPi is take a DMM and measure the voltage coming out of pins 2 (+5vDC) and 6 (GND). If it's anything under like 4.5vDC then you'll probably get the low voltage indicator.
You could do what /u/ShawninOP said, and use a DMM in DC Current mode and measure the current going into the RPI supply. This is only going to tell you what the RPi is using, not the total amount of amps available from the power supply.
In short, get a decent Digital Multi-Meter and some small chip leads to clip onto your RPI. These attachments might work well, but I built my own.
Not really worth it with prices for real multimeters starting from from literally $0 and decent ones under $20 (when on sale).
Is this a decent multimeter? [link]
Or: [link] ?
I've also noticed that there hasn't been an update in 16 days, but you did respond to my comment pretty quickly last night.
I know you specified earlier that these lessons will be posted when you get time, but do you have a time frame of when this course will be finished (and possibly how in-depth you'll go into it)? I'm really looking forward to get down and dirty with my new materials.