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Install Bay CCL1614 Crimp Cap Nylon Connector 16/14 Gauge Long Neck -100-Pack?
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You don't need to buy new wires. Just buy these. Twist the wires together like you have them, slide a cap over, crimp. Throw a cap on any unused wires too. Once you've got them all capped, throw a zip tie around the base of the caps. Tie them altogether like a bouquet of flowers. Keeps them together and help reduce stress/tugging on the crimps.
What year, make, and model vehicle? Some Nissans don't have a factory ground wire. So you'll just run the black from your new head unit directly to some metal in the dash. Crimp on a small ring terminal and then find a factory bolt/screw or use a self tapping screw to ground your head unit.
Highly recommend crimp caps over butt connectors. Wire-to-wire connection with one easy crimp. Wrap a 4" zip tie around the base of the whole bundle. Dummy proof and will last forever. https://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-CCL1614-Connector-100-Pack/dp/B000SBLM1C/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?crid=ZJV9UBBKS7KV&keywords=crimp+caps&qid=1655250099&sprefix=crimp+caps%2Caps%2C202&sr=8-17
If you mean cutting back the cord and splicing it near the brush holder, that will be fine, in fact the Porter Cable 690 uses these from the factory. Is this an old Black and Decker? The strain relief might be molded to the cord, in which case you can't cut it back and should buy a new cordset. Make sure you pull the brushes out before you put the armature back in.
You actually found what they are "Closed-End Connectors" But those are too big.
Go to your nearest Autozone, O'Reillys, NAPA, Advanced, Etc..
They will have the the size crimp caps, more expensive though.
Best connection would be soldering, but I know people aren't comfortable with the technique. Next best thing would be Crimp Cap Connectors. They're similar to wire nuts, but are much more secure. I do not suggest using butt connectors, they are easy to pull apart, unlike the cap style where you can twist the wires together before installing the cap.
I also recommend not cutting the original wire harness. Metra sells an adapter (Metra 70-1721) that fits into the old plug which makes installation much easier as you can do all the electrical outside of the vehicle. You can also reuse the adapter if you choose to install a new radio without damaging any of the original wiring.
If you have already cut old connector off, Metra also sells that. Metra 71-1721 Reverse Wiring Harness
I recently did the upgrade myself on with 2014 Sonata GLS without nav. parts used:
- Kenwood DMX905S
- Scosche HY1625b dash kit
- iDatalink Maestro RR
- Factory replacement harness for Maestro RR
- Crimp cap Nylon connector
the install was sort of straight forward. connecting the wires from replacement T harness to the Kenwood main cable may seem intimidating, but if you follow the diagram supplied by iDatalink, it will not be difficult. Maestro RR unit is very convenient and it lets me assign a single tap and hold (two functions) for each of the steering wheel buttons. one my biggest worry about losing the factory backup camera and its dynamic parking guideline when the car is in reverse. I am happy to report, the factory backup camera works, and the dynamic parking guide line shows up just fine when I am reversing the car with the Kenwood. removing the factory dash panel was not hard if you use the panel tools. the Scosche is of high quality and matches the factory dash overall, but some of the fitment was not correct. when swapping out the parts from the factory panel to Scosche panel, don't put on those green clips just yet. because for me it took a while to find a good fitment between the head unit and the panel, so I had to take off the panel, change the depth or angle of the head unit, and put the panel back on to see if the fit is good. once you are happy with the fitment, put on those green clips on the panel, and set the panel into the dash for good. I set up the microphone at the base of the steering wheel and the GPS antenna on the right side at the edge of the windshield. I channeled the dual USB cable between the two panels near the factory power, USB and audio inputs.
I'm very impressed with the Kenwood unit. I have upgraded it to the latest firmware. then connected my phone (Galaxy S8) with the USB cable and started android auto. next time, I started my car, android auto started right away wirelessly. the screen is low res, but it is not noticeable for me. the sound quality is the biggest strength. the sound is very rich and clear. I have already swapped all four door speakers with Rockford speakers , and the two dash speaker with these. they are not a good fit at the factory slot, I have used bass blocker with the dash speaker. I have also added a Pioneer powered subwoofer in the trunk. using this wire kit.
> 1998 Chevrolet S10 Blazer Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram
> Car Radio Constant 12v+ Wire: Orange > > Car Radio Switched 12v+ Wire: Dark Green > > Car Radio Ground Wire: Black > > Car Radio Illumination Wire: Gray > > Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Violet/White > > Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan > > Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray > > Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green > > Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green > > Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown > > Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow > > Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue > > Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue > > From blazer forum [[Formatted for easier viewing]]
So, I believe the 12 volt switched power is usually a Brown Wire for GM. I would ignore the illumination wire.
You can easily tell which wires are the speaker wires, because if you trim your wire bundle cover down a bit further, they usually twist together the speaker wire pairs.
Be careful, because you can short out a wire and pop a fuse pretty easy in this situation.
To test to see if you have a correct pair, grab a GOOD WORKING battery (like a 9 volt or an AA battery) and connect the (+) to one side and the (-) to the other side. If you hear a speaker go "pop" then those wires work for that speaker.
Once you find which wires go to your speakers, then you should have wires left over. You can assume that they are going to be your power/ground/switched/illumination wires. To test the constant power grab a test light, and check to see if it lights up a test light. It should have power even if the vehicle is off.
To test the switched power, check to see if the test light turns on, only when your key is turned forward. Make sure to not mix this up with the illumination wire by see if the wire comes on with your parking lights.
Great tool for the job, usually $20 at most hardware stores: https://www.channellock.com/909-the-crimper-crimping-tool.aspx?
They work great with these guys: https://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-CCL1614-Connector-100-Pack/dp/B000SBLM1C
Good Luck
Yes that's the one. Just match the colors with the harness that comes with the deck that you buy. Join the wires with crimp caps or butt connectors, or solder and heat shrink if you feel comfortable.
http://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-CCL1614-Connector--100-Pack/dp/B000SBLM1C/
You need a special crimping tool. You could possibly get away with something you already have.
http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Insulated-Non-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B0006M6Y5M/
Or, I guess, some screw on wire nuts and then zip tie or tape it together.
Remove the screws from the factory deck and put your new deck into the bracket with the pocket, the new deck should have the holes there.
you would need to remake the connection with something like a crimp cap or a but connector they require the use of a crimper, but just about every wire stripper has one built in.
If you tug on it more than three times... Oh, forget it.
I like to use crimp connectors. Twist the wires together, fold over itself, put this on and squeeze. No problem and seems more solid than a butt connector.
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