Friendly plastic melts in somewhat hot water. Ball up your weed inside three baggies, and coat it with the melty plastic. When it cools to 120F, it will reharden into solid, army man type plastic. Then you have a plastic ball with weed inside, that no one would suspect.
Here's another brand with diagrams and shit.
https://www.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-12oz-White/dp/B003QKLJKQ
It's an amazing product and kids fucking love the shit out of it.
You can also completely ruin any keyhole with it, forever.
That's just InstaMorph! It's simply polyester thermoplastic that is moldable at low temperature (150 degrees Fahrenheit) and solidifies at room temperature. There are other brands with other names, and cheaper than at the amazon link.
That's a fantastic idea, and I actually have some of that stuff. I bought it years ago just to play with it and see what it can do (never needed it though). I'll have to come up with some sort of handle to 'mount' the plastic and stones to though. I'll think of something. Thanks!!!!
But do you have an accessory navicular bone? Most people don't. And since the Intuition liner is one of the thinnest liners on the market, I'm not sure it would give the right amount of cushion/clearance that you'd get from a thicker liner. Which is not to say that an Intuition couldn't work, but it would almost certainly still require heat-molding of the boot.
OP, how long have you been skating in the Twisters? If not long, then I have a sneaking suspicion they'll break in better than you might think.
One thing you might want to try — and this is a total shot in the dark, so feel free to ignore if it's too much — is to get some moldable plastic and fashion a little protector that you can stick to your foot, under your sock, before you put the skate on. Might take a little trial and error, and a bit of finesse to get it just right, but it'll distribute the pressure to the surrounding area, and will help to clearance the foam in the liner while you skate, so within a few sessions (or so, depending how hard you skate) you'll have created all the space that bone needs to feel comfortable.
Does the magnet ring on the included spacers detach easily? I'm a tinkerer, so I'd probably just buy a set of 6mm spacers and modify them to hold the magnet ring. Would likely take a Dremel and some of that moldable plastic stuff.
might be more trouble then its worth but there is a product called instamorph. you can search it on amazon - wait - i did it for you.
https://www.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-12-oz/dp/B003QKLJKQ
easy to use. works great when gorilla glue etc just does not cut it.
better solution is get a metal cage - cheap ones on DHgate. long ship times but low cost until you want to invest in a good one.
you can buy it already , its been around for a long time. this "manufacturer" is just selling it in a ribbon form. its the same material however....
i think he needs to get sued by using someone elses invention and rebranding it.
https://www.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-12-oz/dp/B003QKLJKQ
You can already buy this stuff right now. Its called instamorph plastic.
https://www.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-12-oz/dp/B003QKLJKQ
Looks like the guys who made Braen just put it into ribbons for ease of use. Its the exact same stuff tho. I am very familiar with it, because we use it in the crafting community a lot and it is strong as steel when it cools.
It is very weak to heat tho, hence why the video only shows it in cold climate LOL. I found that really funny.
If you are going to do some ant-weight stuff I highly recommend using Insta-morph plastic to make armor and parts. You heat the plastic to >150 F in hot water and then it molds like silly putty. Once it cools it is really resilient. I made a tube shaped piece to show my parents and my dad asked if it shatters. I told him I didn't think so because the plastic feels flexible. We ended up hitting it with a hammer a bunch of times and it maintained its tubular shape. I'm planning on making next year's Halloween costume out of it.
Maybe a piece of stiff wire / coat hanger with a small hook bent in the tip? Canned air, sprayed upside-down, to freeze the metal lid and shrink it slightly? Tie a strong piece of string around the bottom of the plunger (pro-tip, remove the rubber piece first) and twirl the shit out of the whole thing to try and remove via centripetal force? If you do this last one, be sure to get it on video.
edit: Hot glue gun and a piece of string? You could re-melt the glue to remove it from the lid. The Aeropress plunger might not like getting hot glue on it, but who knows? Edited edit: better yet, this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-12-oz/dp/B003QKLJKQ
I'll try to post how it works out but I had an idea the other day to use mouldable plastic pellets to create an adapter to fit a gopro mount to my Shoei. It shouldn't stick out as far when finished as this setup. Plus I wont need to buy a dremel tool and would have a larger surface area for mounting. I hate every other mount I've tried for this helmet except chin mount.
Home-Made Sugru is iffy. It works, conforms, dries, etc. but I wasn't 100% satisfied with it. I don't know if actual Sugru is better. Remember that Sugru has an insanely short shelf-life and is basically a perishable product. Amazon prime for it. Similar but different is instamorph (heat moldable plastic) that has a long shelf life (plastic beads + hair dryer) but might not be durable for long-term heat-related applications (ie: Texas garage's would probably not be kind to that material).
http://www.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-12-oz/dp/B003QKLJKQ
--Robert
How complicated is it? Can you not fashion something similar somehow?
I've used Instamorph or similar stuff in the past for things. Pretty handy, but not as cool as 3D printing
They sound like they'll do well!
I know what ya mean about drastic measures - I had to make myself a plastic codpiece to stop edging!
Egad, that air-wire work. :-/
Not that I can talk, all my stuff ends up looking similar after the first version goes through the inevitable fixes. Usually try to keep some extra length and colored insulation to such wires, and give them little loops and pseudo-artfull bends up above the board to mitigate the visual impact. Ah.. but I see that was all on the bottom of your board when in-box, so you needed flat.
Still, the traces look nice. I'll look forward to your how-to about the current system you use, as someday I'll have to choose and get some practice with some such system for personal boards.
Also, to address your project box, if you need some gap-filling plastic, I've been playing around with some stuff I got on Amazon called Instamorph. It is pretty rad, and although I haven't had occasion to do project box related stuff with it yet, that is one of the things I think it might be useful for. In this case, it looks like you needed some extra room for the transformer, and for that, making a little spacer ring out of Instamorph (and then just using longer screws) might have been an option.
Thanks for the input guys. I ordered InstaMorph as a trial. I will certainly post pics. http://www.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-12-oz/dp/B003QKLJKQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1350273652&sr=8-3&keywords=sugru
I considered carbon fiber as I have worked with it in the past, but the fumes are what I am trying to steer clear of.
I'll follow up soon.
https://smile.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-12oz-White/dp/B003QKLJKQ
https://smile.amazon.com/Polly-Plastics-Moldable-Plastic-Sheets/dp/B01MQMNV3P
Polystyrene is "food safe", so I assume that means it's okay for fish.
edit: These were just quick random Amazon hits. This stuff is called "thermoplastic". And searching for thermoplastic + aquarium shows people do use it in aquariums (tho people do a lot of stupid things).
https://www.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-12oz-White/dp/B003QKLJKQ You can make a flange at the bottom from this stuff that will reduce the pressure on your groin. Make it as smoothed out as possible, no sharp edges.
I used a plastic molding putty for a "custom" fit:
InstaMorph - Moldable Plastic - 12oz (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003QKLJKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_BS3KJBC86YHYDCB6REGJ
Instamorph might work for you
https://www.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-12-oz/dp/B003QKLJKQ
this stuff cures rock hard, but not brittle.
https://www.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-12-oz/dp/B003QKLJKQ
If you want it even more resilient, strenghten it withi a piece of coathanger wire as a core
Just looking at this one on Amazon InstaMorph - Moldable Plastic - 12 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003QKLJKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_puQdybSW1WC1T It looks like you can heat it in boiling water and pick up the mold when it's malleable.
I followed this guide and made a chin mount for my Shoei GT-Air. You can substitute out the epoxy putty for something similiar like Instamorph or Sugru if you want. You can use 3M VHB 4991 Tape to stick it on. It's the same stuff Go Pro uses.
I would reach out to the folks at e-nable they should have lots of info on how to best accomplish the scanning/modelling process.
For the ergonomic handles and such, I would try a low temp thermoplastic like InstaMorph / ShapeLock
Here's a link to it on the US Amazon, but it might get you started. http://www.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-12-oz/dp/B003QKLJKQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1441897867&sr=8-2&keywords=Instamorph
Theres a product that might work for you. Its called instamorph http://www.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-12-oz/dp/B003QKLJKQ
You might want to watch some youtube vids about it to see it it would work for your project.
If you are able to make it by hand, then InstaMorph (or a similar product) might be an option. http://www.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-12-oz/dp/B003QKLJKQ
I can't help you find the mask, but you can use some oil based clay to make the form (not hard to do) then some moldable plastic. If the moldable plastic causes the clay to misshape you can use plaster of paris to make a mold from the clay form and then use this to make the mask out of the plastic.
I was planning on using InstaMorph but sugru seems like it would be better, now that I've heard of it.