What is Reddit's opinion of Iot Relay - Enclosed High-power Power Relay for Arduino, Raspberry Pi, PIC or Wifi, Relay Shield?

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1. air assist - even better install a relay to only activate the air-assist compressor when the laser is active (IoT relay--https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WV7GMA2 )
2. make sure it has a Lightburn-compatible main board-if not swap the board out with a Cohesion3D board.

Yep you want a relay. Here's something that probably does exactly what you want: https://smile.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2

Disregard the fact that it has IoT and Raspberry pi in the name, that's just to get in more search results. This is just what you describe and little more: put 5v on the little green terminals and the "normally open" outlets will get power.

If using a RaspberryPi for Octoprint you can use this power strip to keep continuous power your Pi and toggle the power to one of the "Normally Off" outlet that the printer is plugged into by running two wires from GPIO pins to the strip.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WV7GMA2

I found this on Amazon a while back. You can use the 12v trigger as an input to turn devices on/off.

Do you have an amazon echo? You could get a smart outlet and then just say "Alexa turn on/off my Sub” or whatever and you’d not have to use your phone at least.

Otherwise I know this is quite popular for what you are looking for. It has a little input there on the side the looks for power, if it sees it it will turn on one set of outlets, if no power detected then the other set of plugs are active. Can be used for many things, but many use them for AV related things as the reviews show. I have used them before for totally unrelated uses but I have used them and they worked great.

https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1531659112&sr=8-14&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=digital+logger

Edit - And downvoted. I provided one smart alternative solution and another one that is exactly what the posted asked for. Still downvoted, sigh.

I’m using one of these and two wires hooked to GPIO pins.

Iot Relay - Enclosed High-Power Power Relay for Arduino, Raspberry Pi, PIC or WiFi, Relay Shield https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WV7GMA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7Y8M276J3YT01XF7PGHR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Take a look at this product here:

https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2

So what this does, it has an outlet that is only turned on when it senses any voltage from 3-48v on the little green input you see there. USB supplies 5v. so what you can do is take an old usb cable of any kind and strip the ends and only connect the ground and 5v connectors into that. When your PC turns on, the power strip will sense 5V on the input and turn on the outlet.

Something to keep in mind is that this is simply like pulling the plug and plugging it back in, it will not turn on the unit if the unit does not remember its last powered on state.

If you can't spend any money, sure it'll work...with the main downside being that you will have to manually turn it off and on.

this little guy would fix that issue for you but it's been out of stock for awhile: https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2

Ohh ok both are just relays, got it.

Yes the ones I linked could probably only handle 10 and 40 amps would definitely melt them or at least probably.

But then again everything you have is plugged into a power strip that could also only handle 15 amps or it would melt / trip too.

Then of course there is the wire you are using, I assume it's 14 Gauge running 40 amps on that would not be advisable.

And of course your wall breaker is most likely 15 or maybe 20 amps.

In fact unless you want to run that system through your drier plug you are kinda capped at 12-15 amps.

This is is pretty cool if you are interested. It would also be a lot safer I think.

You could just opt for a 2 channel amp and let your 3700h still handle the center. no way you're going to remotely stress the 3700 just running surrounds. That's what most people do. You'll get a lot more value for your money on the used market so you could easily go that route too

The biggest issue I had was finding a good three channel amp with a 12v trigger. Lots of them don't have it.

So I snagged one of these which lets you essentially add a 12v trigger to any amp: https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2

> The most important thing to look for - the amp should have a remote in which will allow you to turn that amp on when you turn on your Denon.

Lol you don't need a remote...that just makes the whole process a hassle.

He should get an amp with a 12v trigger and it will automatically turn on/off with the receiver. Or just one of these if the amp doesn't have a trigger: https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2/

Using the RPI and the GPIO pins to cycle the IOT relay linked below is what I am planning. The RPI and Modem will be on their own UPS that will let it monitor the situation for hours. Will have a second Nic on the Pi one for VPN or SSH from modem and one to the Dream machine I will not be able to start setting it up until April so I have all the parts but now it's all just writing scripts and software and setting it up. Also gonna put a normally closed solid state relay to power cycle the RPI using the POE switch in between the UPS and the RPI put power to the POE port the relay opens killing power the RPI

https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2

Thisis the only thing I could find that would work without additional effort. You could get the same thing done at a lower cost with a simple relay module, but you would need to make your own enclosure and wire your own plug.

I don't think the item you're referencing is a bad idea. In fact, if I did it again, I'd do something like that because I eventually settled on using a power relay so the Pi could turn everything on and off using the stock power switch.

If you have the tools (wire stripper/crimper, mostly), it's really not hard at all. The idea that it might be a "fire hazard" is mostly bunk. The wires are well-insulated inside the crimping and the basic method I used is exactly the same as the item you linked.

assuming you cant do it all via software a

fallback solution would be to power cycle the router.

you could use a smart plug, the pi might be able to control some makes of those plugs.. but if wifi goes down.. how will it power it back up.

or.... find one of those old fashioned timers you use to turn on/off lights on a schedule.

another solution is a pi controllable relay. there are examples of those online, but the easy solution for this is....

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00WV7GMA2

with one of those - you wire the connectors to some gpio pins on the pi, and you can turn the whole relay on/off the same as you would light up a led via the gpio pins on the pi.

I actually tool a led+resistor pi example to wire up mine. or you trigger the relay via a hacked usb cable.. when the pi reboots so would the relay, so would the router..

3 channel amps are usually expensive and much harder to come by (e.g. that xpa-3). many also dont have 12v triggers (plug this into your denon and the amp will turn on/off with the receiver). i just kept looking on craigslist until i found something quality. you could also just start with a 2 channel and upgrade later...you might not even need it.

i installed this last week though: https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2/

lets you make any device w/o a 12v trigger function like it has one.

Inexpensive amps with triggers are hard to find but here is a triggered outlet that could work:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WV7GMA2/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A3D4241373L385&psc=1

Cheapest amp you can get is an old receiver. I am seeing them for $25-$50 on craigslist for an old 5.1 or 7.1ch hdmi-less amp. Don't worry about power, even a 30W/ch amp would be enough for some height speakers.

Back instock @ Amazon. Images are showing correctly as well. I have this in two cabs, relay is triggered by the usb port on the lcd controller. So when I turn on screen pi is powered on.

Can't say I blame you for your concern. Brainstorming some options off the top of my head:

1) Thanks to IOT getting more popular, there are relay modules that trigger off of ESP32 level currents. An example is https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00WV7GMA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KxnlFbTGVCQPG Not cheap, but looks sturdy and has good ratings. 2) Stick a Sonoff TH16 up there (after flashing Tasmota on it). No separate wall wart needed (it runs on the 110v that gets fed out to the relay). It sends sensor readings to a server somewhere (comfortable) in your house via MQTT; you control the relay the same way. The smarts (and an ability to monitor and log things) stay on the server. 3) Use the ESP to drive one of those toy relays, but feed your 5v source directly through the relay switch, and use that to drive a proper power relay. Kinda Rube Goldberg, but should be reliable enough. 4) Design (or copy) a simple transistor circuit on the ESP output pin to get enough current to drive a proper power relay. Same concept as #3, but prettier.

If you've already got some kind of home automation server that speaks (or can speak) MQTT (e.g. Openhab, Home Assistant, etc), then #2 is the best solution by far. I have one of the Sonoffs that I just use for the sensor capability (it's cheaper than WiFi or ZWave temp sensors), and it's dead nuts reliable. All you need to do is clip the power line going to your fan, connect the Sonoff on-line, then tack up the sensor where you want it. Hopefully, you'll never have to go in the attic again after that.

I have about a dozen ESP32-based controllers scattered around the house, and I end up having to reboot them every month or two when they "get lost" (I can reboot them remotely; I need to rig up something to proactively do that every few weeks). And you can tweak your control algorithm without having to upload code to your ESP.

Amazon just sent me an email that its available to order though its showing Aug 30th. Funny thing is the images are completely jacked. Shows airpod case,

I just did this, but didn't feel like futzing with cutting powersupply wires.. I used this:

Iot Relay - Enclosed High-Power... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WV7GMA2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I soldered pins to the 5v output pins of the powerblock and attached them to the relay, using the same wires suggested above. Make sure you wire positive and negative right.

It has an always on(powerblock), two typically off (amp and screen) and one typically on, not used by me.

The power cord is super short, so extend or replace, it uses a standard cord like computers use...

The way I did the power switch was to use a relay:

Iot Relay - Enclosed High-Power Power Relay for Arduino, Raspberry Pi, PIC or WiFi, Relay Shield https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WV7GMA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qtPqCb3W4BPSH

Then I took the original power plug and used it to run the 12v output to the original switch and back down to the ready to turn it on when flipped.

A 'dirty way' would be to power cycle the router.

I was going to suggest one of those wifi power switches.. but then realized that would not work if it was connected to the router.

I have one of these relays - that is VERY handy. If you can make a led light up, you can toggle the power.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WV7GMA2/ You could even make it where if the pi reboots, the router power goes off until the pi comes back on. You can take a USB cable and go from the pi to the relay, so no pi power -> no usb power -> relay is off.

This is a bit over kill for your needs however. A simple Timer Switch for xmas lights may do what you need.

This IOT relay is pretty simple hookup to an OctoPi and the power control plugin. I've been using it about six months. The plugin turns off the relay after a period on inactivity when the print finishes

https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2

If you want to control them from an Arduino, buy a set of remote-controlled switchable outlets and either hack the remote or use a 433/315 MHz transmitter to send the remote code.

Or you can buy something like this and connect a USB cable to the DC input.

Any updates from inventables on the app? You can have the router turn on and off thru easel just need a relay

Iot Relay - Enclosed High-power Power Relay for Arduino, Raspberry Pi, PIC or Wifi, Relay Shield https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WV7GMA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FUY-zbBTQD5GY

I agree, if you knew what you were doing its actually a pretty simple system. I could handle the entire control surface pretty well through a Pi running node-red and GPIO 3.3v control of some 15A relays...

On the other hand, I'm NOT an EE, and dealing with real 120v through circuits I would design would make me afraid I was going to burn my house down. There are pre-rolled addressable power strips that I could do this with, but price-wise I think it'd hit a LOT closer to an Apex price at that point. There's stuff like this out there too that might be closer to price though.

I considered this as it's basically how my home-automation system and custom alarm system function, but I'm punting to ZWave for actual switch control. It makes me wish I felt more comfortable around 120v circuit design like this, because I'm pretty sure I'd like the control afforded by this approach.

I had to make some modifications to where the extruders sat to make it functional but this is my enclosure. I use OctoPrint and this Power Strip to remote control powering on and off the printer and lights. It's got a couple fans and some activated charcoal batting to help with any smell.

Me too, I have one of these relay power strips controlled by the XController. Both the spindle and vacuum are digitally controlled so they shut off when the cut is done.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WV7GMA2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a webcam pointed on the XCarve. The XController itself is plugged in through a WeMo switch. I occasionally start a long cut and can't sit there and babysit it. I broke a bit and ruined a piece of work once, which sucked. Now I can remotely monitor the workpiece and if something goes wrong I can remotely shut off the power to the XController, which both stops the movement of the stepper motors but also via that relay shuts off both the spindle and the vacuum.

Being in the room is safer, and you should never ever leave a machine running... but I have kids and a day job and finite time, so I figured out this adequate workaround.

Also agree, and exactly what I did:

1. Relay controlled power strip: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WV7GMA2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2. Literally any wired smoke detector with interconnect capability / module.

Use an enclosed AC relay unit like this.

You are looking for a relay with a 5.0 Volt DC coil and double-pole single-throw contacts. The coil draws more current than any typical 5-volt logic IC output. The contacts would need to be rated for at least 120 VAC and maybe 20% over what you know the maximum AC current draw will be.

If you need 5 volt logic level control and/or don't want to be concerned with coming up with an enclosure for a relay, you could get something like this:

https://smile.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2

The issues isnt the cost for the extra hardware but the development of hardware/software that would be expected to make it work.

A raspberry pi is like 35 bucks, needs a usb power adapter for a few more bucks, some wire that can be scrounged from anywhere and something like a relay controlled power strip for 40 bucks.

If you go the DIY route that i suggested with just some gcode moving the axis to a specific position where it clicks a switch you can do it with this 2 buck relay, some wire, a 5v power adapter and a switch.

That looks easy. I have a couple of these set aside from an automated test fixture I put together. If the pinout is the same on the newer version of the board on the Shapeoko4 then this should be easy to have both the spindle and shopvac connected for just $30.

I just need to finish my rolling cabinet first.

https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=IOT+power+relay&qid=1627141722&sr=8-2

I did this same mod with the MvC cab (basically identical).

There are a number of different ways you can go about it depending on how fancy you want to get. what I did is this:

1. Wired the stock on/off switch to the GPIO pins on my Pi 4.

2. Wired the Pi 4 into an IoT relay.

(sorry for lack of detailed explanations on the wiring of the pins; I figured it out via many Reddit posts and helpful users and can't easily find the comments with the information again...but if you want I can dig back through on the weekend when I'm drunk and bored, just let me know)

1. Plugged the stock power supply into the relay in the "usually on" plug.

2. Bought a splitter to power both the monitor and marquee from the same power supply (mimicking the function performed by the stock board).

3. The marquee uses a different size plug so I also bought a set of these to get bare ends out of one of the splitter outputs, then stripped the "in" side of the stock adapter for the marquee's power and spliced it onto the bare ends of the adapter. You could seal it up with electrical tape but some heat shrink tubing will give a more elegant and possibly more durable solution.Just make sure to slide the piece onto the wire before you join the ends.

I will say that the one weakness to the above is that minor power fluctuations will wake the Pi, and thus turn on everything, without me flipping the switch. Therefore I have it plugged into a power strip that I simply turn off after I switch the Pi off. This can apparently be overcome by adding one additional layer of complexity and plugging the Pi into a PowerBlock which then will tell the Pi to wake up and also turn on the other stuff. I haven't bothered to go down that rabbit hole yet; I'll probably try it when I mod my vertical screen cab and if I'm happy with the result buy another to go back in and do my MvC.

edit: I realized I assumed the cab came with the light up marquee stock. If that's not the case all the above still applies if you want to tie the power state of an aftermarket marquee (or any other lights or powered doodads for that matter) to the Pi, it just doesn't cover how to install those things.

https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2/

$27 and now he can have auto on/off and still use the avr.

> do this without messing with the AC power

This product is made for exactly that application and it'll probably also save you a bunch of time wiring up stuff.

if I hadn't already invested in an amp and built the sub enclosure, I'd prob go that way. Since I only expect to be using the stock setup for a few more weeks, i'll just put everything on a power strip and turn it off that way. easy.

​

For the retropie install, i have this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WV7GMA2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That will work with the computer to auto turn on/off things in the cabinet. pretty simple relay controlled outlet, really.

Here is one for $30 that I mentioned in my Guide to automatically controlling power to amplifiers, powered monitors, and subwoofers

I have used this for four years with no issues. Wires directly to a couple GPIO pins on the Pi and is run by a plugin.

That would work but much safer if you get a prebuilt relay strip similar to this one.

Get an IOT relay Iot Relay like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WV7GMA2/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_C1E738ERT8P5MAVX0RRD

If you need a relay, it would be something like this.

If you still want to use the smart plug and aren't comfortable cracking it open and adding a higher current 120v relay then this solution might be more your speed.

Buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2/ref=sr_1_15?dchild=1&keywords=relay+module+120v&qid=1632432422&sr=8-15

And something like this: https://www.amazon.com/JOVNO-100-240V-Converter-Transformer-5-5x2-5mm/dp/B08Q38QMFD/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=110+to+5v+dc+wallwart&qid=1632432640&sr=8-9

You plug the 5v adapter into the smart plug and either strip the end or use an adapter to get to just the wires and wire it into the control line of the enclosed relay. Then anytime the smart outlet comes on so does the other module and thus your AC. Sounds like the relay box has one outlet that's hot all the time so you could even plug the smart plug into that so you only need one outlet for power.

I'm just spitballing here but:

• A pressure sensor
• A controllable power outlet
• Some glue code

would probably do what you need. I should point out, I have no idea how good those components are - I haven't tested them together and they might be complete garbage, but I'd expect something along those lines should get you most of the way there.

Stick a pressure sensor in the duct, if it senses <some amount of pressure> switch the outlet on. When the pressure drops below <some other amount> switch it off.

Disclaimer: I am not an HVAC tech. There's probably a "correct" way to solve this problem in the HVAC world and this likely isn't it.

OctoPrint, with a PSU control plug in and this power strip

&#x200B;

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WV7GMA2/

I use this, wired to the Pi with the PSU plugin https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WV7GMA2/

I use TP-Link HS100 smart plugs, separate from the printer. With the older plug firmware at least, you can isolate them after setup and control them direct locally via IP. And there is an OctoPrint plugin that supports them. (Not sure if what is shipping still works, and you can’t let them update.)

For a more direct approach, you could get something like an iotRelay for each printer and have the Pi control it directly via data pins: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WV7GMA2/ (and there are some models like it with Ethernet/API control of multiple outlets, just gets more spendy)

Working on a version of the iotRelay design that also would be cutoff by a separate smoke detector trigger circuit. The TP-Link stuff seems kind of fragile to rely on long term, although it works great now and it’s easy and cheap.

EDIT: this plugin https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/tplinksmartplug/ based on the more generic power control plugin https://github.com/kantlivelong/OctoPrint-PSUControl

Allow me to introduce you to this:

https://www.amazon.ca/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2

This gets you spindle control via M3, and is a must-have for these types of machines.

the relay i have - can handle Higher loads than a typical smart plug, So there is a good reason. Just not a 'common home use' reason..

https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2

Low-voltage controlled outlet. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WV7GMA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NECEZ2AQRTC8SV3207V3

For those unable to get the bitrunner, you can just get one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2

leave it on all the time.

make sure everything is plugged into the same wall outlet (same breaker).

or buy and try one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2/

Yea the point of the relay is to trigger a higher voltage circuit with a low voltage circuit. But I wasn't conformable with messing with 120AC for a rely so I got this and it works fine. https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2/

im also a big fan of this: https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2

basically lets you add a 12v trigger to any amp which gives you a lot more options.

BTW I also use this https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2/ for power to the printer. Its easier to set up but still need to use PI GPIO for triggering it.

https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2/

This will fix that

if you get a receiver with a 12v trigger, you can use this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WV7GMA2/

I'm in the process of using this relay connected to the 3.3V/Ground GPIO pins of the Pi. I haven't set up the next part but I can confirm that the relay will turn everything on an off with just powering on the Pi.

You can then rewire the built-in switch to the GPIO pins of the Pi and use these scripts to use the built-in switch for on/off.

I didn't actually wind up with anything yet. My 13 year old living room TV died, and a replacement for it was more urgent than getting my bedroom stereo right.

I was considering using another RPi as a streamer, and somehow adding in control with a power strip like this: https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2/

Supposedly Alexa is getting the ability to flip a toggle in X minutes, which I could imagine using really nicely for this ("turn off stereo in 30 minutes")

You could also add this thing to the mix: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WV7GMA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_SriSFb5PD336D?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Check out the first review which describes how to use the USB port on your TV as the trigger.

I'd consider something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&amp;keywords=switching+electrical+outlet+arduino&amp;qid=1603850080&amp;sr=8-2

&#x200B;

You can find similar devices for other electrical systems around the world.

It has a place to connect a 5v input... so you can switch on and off the outlet as easily a switching on and off an LED.

It’s not a problem. I suppose I will go ahead answer a question or two before I pass out on the bed. Were you interested in getting the stock switches working with it? I know most builds, everyone has been ignoring the power switch and have been leaving their single board computer somewhat accessible(just to turn on). If you are planning on using the stock switch to power on the Odroid, I’d recommend getting the standard XU4 with a Fan instead of the passively cooled one. The reason being is that the shifter plate covers the entire unit and you can’t use a case. Honestly, the case is not really needed since the fan will suffice(plus you won’t see it being inside the cabinet).

The shifter shield makes it so you can easily plug the jumper wires to the odroid. The IoT Relay connects via 5V and Ground. The Power Switch gets wired via 5V and pin 12 on the shifter shield(PWRON).

For the Odroid Specific stuff, I recommend purchasing through AmeriDroid. Amazon resellers have a high markup on the items. Here are a few parts I used:

Iot Relay - Enclosed High-Power Power Relay for Arduino, Raspberry Pi, PIC or WiFi, Relay Shield https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WV7GMA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GPemCbW62R8QS

XU4 Shifter Shield https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LTG6FJ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DQemCbK5X4RYG

HiLetgo 120pcs/3x40pcs Breadboard Jumper Wires Prototype Board Dupont Wire Male to Male, Male to Female, Female to Female, 2.54mm to 2.54mm 20CM Wires Assortment Kit for Arduino Raspberry PI DIY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077X7MKHN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XRemCbPRM6NBE

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I know its a simple project but if you wanted something a bit more finished and for a lot less time they do make things for this, e.g.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00WV7GMA2/

A couple options I have used for rebooting a modem; both require a Raspberry Pi or similar:

Iot Relay - Enclosed High-power Power Relay for Arduino, Raspberry Pi, PIC or Wifi, Relay Shield https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WV7GMA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ViRuFbGJCZ7GF

Reboot-o-matic https://www.tindie.com/products/nsayer/reboot-o-matic/

If you are switching the AC mains power to the speakers and are in North America, this may be close to a ready-made solution for you.

https://smile.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2

With a bit of modding to a short USB extension cable, you could tap the 5-volt lines to operate this device and still use the TV's USB port for its intended purpose.

I basically need a smaller version of this for only 1 connection.

https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2

I basically need a smaller version of this product.

https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2

I bought this (https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Iot+Relay&amp;qid=1571166495&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-1) to plug my AV rack fans into. Uses the 12V trigger from the receiver to energize the appropriate outlets on the brick. I also got this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GIGTQ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) to simply wire the trigger to the brick.

Like this?

https://smile.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2

BTW, the trigger on the Port is meant for just amps in general, not the AMP, which is the Sonos amp.

Cheers.

I use one of these that is controlled by an Arduino to turn on equipment. It's worked well for multiple years. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WV7GMA2/

Iot Relay - Enclosed High-Power Power Relay for Arduino, Raspberry Pi, PIC or WiFi, Relay Shield https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WV7GMA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rFMTCbZKWEWY0

Thanks so much. I did some research and found that the Pi doesn't draw enough power to trip some of these strips (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=150529.0) but I then found a IoT Relay (https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2/) which can start up and shut down by using the gpio positive and ground headers. I would never have found this if you wouldn't have pushed me in that direction, so thanks again!

with this - you can switch on/off power to things as easy as you can blink an led on the pi. But it might be overkill, but is sure is a neat and handy device.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WV7GMA2

I listened to these Quad ESL-55 electrostatics at a friend's place - image. I love the sound of of Quad ESLs!

I don't use an AVR in my home theater so I ordered the parts to make an IR controlled 12v trigger. The 12v trigger will (a) open a relay wakes up a subwoofer amplifier and (b) turn on this power strip that powers the main speaker amps.

look at the Volts and watts and amps. needed.. The pi gpio pins can only supply a little bit of power.

9V .48W, the fan specs say.

https://www.element14.com/community/thread/20982/l/raspberry-pi-gpio-pin-max-current?displayFullThread=true

gives the max Amps from a gpio in milliamps. at 3.3V or 5V.

short answer: you are not going to be running those fans from a gpio pin directly.

https://howchoo.com/g/m2qwmte5nzk/how-to-use-a-relay-with-a-raspberry-pi

so it is going to be a matter of how fancy you want to get.

Look around for other relay solutions also.

personally I use this to turn on big things...

Iot Relay - Enclosed High-power Power Relay for Arduino, Raspberry Pi https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WV7GMA2/

with something like this, you could turn on most anything. as easy as telling the pi to light up a led.

Iot Relay - Enclosed High-power Power Relay for Arduino, Raspberry Pi, PIC or Wifi, Relay Shield https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WV7GMA2

Here's another option: https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2

Additionally I had an IoT power relay connected to the GPIO pin 14 in order to switch the humidifier on when the humidity drops below 80%. Upon disconnecting the relay, the BME280 sensor ran stable all day long (previously the I2C bus crashed after a couple hours). The IoT power relay only draws 2-3 mA at 3v3, and I am now successfully running the BME280 sensor off of a GPIO pin 17, so the total mA between the relay and sensor should be way less than 50 mA. I'm not sure why the relay causes the I2C bus to crash.

The BME280 sensor seems to run fine off of GPIO pin 17, being switched on for 2 seconds before taking a reading and switched back off. I think this setup may be advantageous, because it should prevent the sensor from heating up and giving inaccurate temperature readings.

Maybe toss an inexpensive relay module into the mix. Code the relay to close at a temperature around 90F so when you surround it with your hands the relay clicks. You can explain the relay can be connected to a fan or HVAC control to start cooling.

Edit: Or, if you have ~20 USD to spend pick up one of these guys and actually have a fan turn on! Note: This is certainly not the cheapest way to accomplish this!

brief overview

The pump design is based on https://blog.monotonous.org/2016/05/25/autonomous-plant-watering/

And then the actual switching on/off is with this relay switch https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2

Could have used one of these and saved some time: http://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

Oh, it's "sump pump".