And this is the hard part. Be very careful trimming the plastic off the wires. Very easy to cut the wires and end up with not enough to twist into a connection. You can get a tool that will be easier to use-https://smile.amazon.com/VISE-GRIP-Stripping-Cutter-8-Inch-2078309/dp/B000JNNWQ2/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2V5Y7I3SA1JND&dchild=1&keywords=wire+strippers+electrical&qid=1615228771&sprefix=Wire+stripper%2Caps%2C211&sr=8-3
Looking for some recommendations on how to install power to my spare tire sub. Does that all look right?
I plan to crimp the connectors using my Irwin mulitool: https://www.amazon.com/VISE-GRIP-Stripping-Cutter-8-Inch-2078309/dp/B000JNNWQ2/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1V1C5UGCNJ9YG&keywords=irwin+multitool+crimp&qid=1644638666&sprefix=irwin+multitool+crimp%2Caps%2C126&sr=8-4
You can use scissors and a knife carefully or spend $9.59 USD and have a great tool for life.
take a look at this for an idea of what you need. Substitute the sanwa buttons for similar buttons of the same size.
The Brook Zero Pi is cheap, supports the switch, and doesn't need soldering (make sure you get the version with the screw terminals).
you will need a crimping/stripper tool and quick disconnects .187 or 4.8mm and wire (if you have old ethernet cables you could use the 8 wires from that)
Good luck with your build and post it when you are done.
You want a locking 3.5mm connector. The closest ones to what Sennheiser offers (it is probably these) are from Pearstone.
These are great. Sannken has some great and obvious hook up diagrams on their website for wiring instructions.
Soldering is not easy. I don't know why people say shit like that, except to say that they've forgotten what is like to do something for the first time. Over half of the cable building tutorials I see on line are complete crap, and people who say its easy usually suck at it, and don't ever realize they are soldering the same cable once a month. It is difficult to learn, and it requires good tools. A good soldering job is not one that works when it is plugged in, a good job is one that you don't have to fix or think about for a decade of service. It is also a good skill to learn as a sound mixer, so I absolutely think you should try your hand at it. But keep in mind that each time you fuck up, you will be making that mic shorter and shorter, so I would decide before you start how much your willing to tolerate while learning before you send it in. And I would get some cheap wire to practice with.
Don't get a shit iron. Don't get a radio shack iron that only goes to 300 degrees after 30 minutes of being plugged in like a desk lamp. Do spend a bit of money to get one that goes to 700. It is way easier to burn connectors by using not enough heat and trying to make up for it with contact time than it is to have a nice hot iron on and off some solder in a few seconds.
For Lavs, I always use a bit of heat shrink tube around the solder lugs individually, and around the strain relief, coming out of the boot of the connector. It helps hold things in place, reduces the angle of bend at the boot, and keeps that strain relief gripped tight. Also helps if the lug rotates against the ground pan, which is a problem with every 3.5 mm connector since China and the folks there started manufacturing them as cheap as is possible in this universe.
Also, for COS-11 conductor wire, I recommend some tweezers to hold them to the lugs while heating up the tinned conductor and lug. The wires are tiny.
Panavice JR is the tool to hold the connector while you do this work. wrap it in aluminum foil or a sheet of tin to avoid burning the clamp when the contact end heats up. On a budget, a pair of channel locks can serve propped up with a screwdriver. Get good enough at soldering and you can do it all while standing and only with your hands, a good skill for HOW installs. Burn the carpet at the pulpit and get fired.
Last Pro tip: Sanken COS-11d Wire is difficult to strip, especially on the conductors themselves. I advise you start with some very sharp strippers, I prefer this style:
Hold the conductor in the proper gauge hole, and quickly pull the wire at a 90 degree angle in respect to the blade.
If and when you have any problems on the day, hit me up with some pics and I'll try and help you out. But the above is a enough to get you started or scare you away.
This is a moment where you get to decide how much profit you'd like. Before Covid-19, I was a tech at a shop and would charge $50 plus parts to do this job while you wait. And making cables drops cost from hundreds to tens. Good luck!
Irwin also makes a bunch of stamped electrical pliers like these. If you row through Amazon you'll find dozens of this type from companies I don't recognize.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JNNWQ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought this Irwin from Amazon (I was not in a hurry) and it was priced right ($13). It is the 8" one (more info: http://www.irwin.com/tools/pliers-adjustable-wrenches/multi-tool-stripper-crimper-cutter)
Here are the other Irwin wire strippers that they have:
http://www.irwin.com/tools/browse/pliers-adjustable-wrenches/wire-strippers
Get wire strippers like this
wire stiripper/crimper and some quick disconnects.
you could probably use some pliers instead of a crimper.
Yep. Get some coax from your house, unused cable TV or satellite or something (it's not the same as what we use for ham radio for the most part, but it's smaller so probably will tax his dexterity more). Get some wire cutters / strippers like these ones on amazon. That could work as your pliers too. If you can find something to plug the coax into, like a splitter.
Then he can practice screwing in the coax to the splitter, use the stripper to cut the coax into pieces and strip the plastic off, use the pliers to squish the cable itself (that wouldn't really do anything, but good practice). He'll probably have some ideas too.
Oh, and you don't NEED the harbor freight wire connector kit. You can strip a wire with a sharp knife taking care not to cut into the copper wire. Or use your teeth (please don't). The harbor freight heat gun though, that's worth buying.
That harbor freight tool is extremely common and is okay for crimping, and while the stripper portion works, it is complete trash, always. It's a good deal for the tool and the connectors, but it is not a good wire stripper.
Just about any other style of wire stripper is better. Here's a few examples that I would use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JNNWQ2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D25N45F/ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086V5M1B4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BX22P1K
Then, there's this style that I have used, but I'm not a huge fan of: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081821YSV
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I think this is a great little project for someone just getting started. For most of my connections, I soldered the wires together. If you have never soldered before, it's not that hard to learn. Checkout a few youtube videos on how to get started. If you are not into soldering though, there are many other ways to connect wires. Wire nuts are very easy to work with, just twist the wires together and twist the nut onto the wires. There are also crimp connectors that allow you to push the wires into a plastic sleeve with a metal interior, and then using some pliers or a crimping tool, just squeeze the connector until it crushes down a bit holding both wires in place.
Also I should mention, to connect the wires you will need to expose some of the metal on the end of each wire. This is known as stripping the wire. A simple wire stripper like this makes the job easy. Or for a few bucks more, a self adjusting wire stripper like this makes it even easier.
For the parts that I linked, it should be very staightforward. The 12v socket comes with wires with spade connectors on the end. You can just push those right onto the posts of the socket. The batter holder I sent uses the same style clip as a 9 volt battery. You can just buy this harness to plug into the holder. Then all you need to do is connect the red wire from the pack to the red wire on the socket, and the same for the two black wires. Let me know if you need any more help at all. I am always glad to help someone learn a new skill, and so grateful to the many people that helped me learn along the way.
One final thought. Any electrical system you build needs to have a fuse. If things go wrong, and too much power is being used, the fuse will overheat, and shut down before a fire can start. For this project you would just need to add the fuse inline on the red wire. A 10 amp fuse with a holder like this should be fine.
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If you cut screws and want something decent and cheap: IRWIN VISE-GRIP Wire Stripping Tool / Wire Cutter, 8-Inch (2078309) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JNNWQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GQiJFbMBZ1SQ6
If you want something heavy duty that you can beat on: Milwaukee 48-22-3079 6-In-One Combination Wire Stripping and Reaming Pliers for Electricians, 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083F74SLF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aRiJFbR1N8HWM (I don’t know why it’s a two pack they sell them individually elsewhere)
They also make these Milwaukee ones with Romex strippers for 12/2 and 14/2, although I started stripping romex by rocking the razor knife on the jacket and pulling it off so I eventually got the other ones as well to have more wire sizes.
You need a set of wire strippers https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000JNNWQ2 they're made to strip away the sheathing and not cut any of the copper wire.
Yup, you need a receiver.
Oddly enough, those are the plates for a 7.1 system... so "four" connectors probably aren't connected to anything.
If you look, each Red/Black pair should go to a speaker. Figuring out which speaker is which will be fun!
So, a shopping list just to get you started.
All in, you're looking about $200, but keep in mind this is working on the assumption that the house has a subwoofer built-in somewhere... if it doesn't you'll be sorely lacking in bass, and that'll add another $100 or so.
What you would do is take the speaker wire, cut it into 10 roughly equal lengths (two wires per speaker, five speakers), put the banana plugs on (not "required", but they do make life simpler), and use the receiver to identify which plug goes to which speaker. The faceplate you (presumably) took off SHOULD have them labeled.
Once you have them identified, plug the wires into the back of the receiver, matching up the spots. Plug your PS4 into the Receiver, the Receiver into the Television, and go to town.
Slightly more involved, but that should at least get you making noise. ;)
If you don't have the the proper tools, installing this can be a pain, you need screwdrivers, a metric socket set if you have a modern vehicle, wire stripper and crimper something like this:
https://smile.amazon.com/VISE-GRIP-Multi-Tool-Stripper-Crimper-2078309/dp/B000JNNWQ2
you should have a multimeter but a simple circuit tester would also work for this, BTW I was sent a free circuit tester with my Android mirror that looks something like this:
https://smile.amazon.com/ATD-5513-Heavy-Duty-Circuit-Tester/dp/B000M5ZWBA
if you don't know how to use the multimeter or circuit tester have a look on Youtube for instructional videos, you also need some sort of automotive trim clip removal kit, like this:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009QLBDSW
I was using my hands to remove most of the plastic trim but I kept breaking the plastic clips, what I do now is firmly but gently pry the plastic trim away with my hands and when I feel more or stronger resistance I stop, then use the clip removal kit to pry that tough clip lose, the clip removal kit also helps when running wires under the plastic trim without removing the plastic trim, and when working around the edge of the headliner, BTW if you break some trim clips most of them can be found on Amazon or eBay.
Some vehicles also need a Torx screwdriver/bit/socket set, mine did, I needed a Torx screwdriver set and a Torx socket set, you may not need them for other vehicles but GM/Chevy seems to use them a lot.
When I installed the wires for the Android mirror, I started at the fuse box thats in the dash, and worked up to the Android mirror, on my Chevy I ran the GPS,main wire, backup camera wire, up the passenger side door frame trim, and ran the backup camera wire along the headliner trim to the back, but I think on most cars the backup camera wire should go along the floor under the carpet trim.
You need to have to two power wires connected, (Battery +) that always has power, and (Ignition) that only has power when your key is in ACC or when the motor is running, thats were the multimeter and circuit tester come in handy, the multimeter is also helpful in finding a good ground for the ground wire that needs to be connected.
I had to be careful working around the door trim area because of the Airbags, you might want to disconnect your battery and let it set for few minutes before working around any Airbag stuff, the service manual for my Chevy says with the ignition off, disconnect the negative battery cable and wait 1 minute.
The Chinese voice can be disabled or changed when you have root, but sadly even when you change the voice it still talks in a broken English.
Don't know about satiated, but you could sure buy one of these http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JNNWQ2/ with your $2s.