IS Icstation Digital Low Voltage Protector Disconnect Switch Over Discharge Protection Module for 12-36V Lead Acid Lithium Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07929Y5SZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G-LCFb36VDD0G, depending on the battery, look at specs to see what is considered the minimum.
All of the 18V/20V tool lines have the low voltage cutoff in the tool, except Ryobi and Ridgid. Those are the only two brands whose batteries have the low voltage cutoff in the pack, and can be used safely with simple setups like this.
For all the other brands, you want one of these
>use a Raspberry Pi Reply Hat to automatically switch between power sources encase of a critically low battery %.
In that case: have the Pi switch a DPDT relay. On one relay side, switch the solar panel input. On the other relay side, switch the DC charger. Use the opposite poles on rack side, so when one side is on, the other is off.
You don't need a pi to do this. Low voltage cutoff boards are simple and readily available. Use one of these to drive the DPDT relay.
I would use a module like this https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07929Y5SZ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_TG4QSDJZJEZ8YFWWGPJM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You can set the voltage you want it to cut off at and almost all of them come with a delay mechanism that prevents rapid cycling around the set point.
> I can turn on the switch to start the charging and turn it off to stop it. The problem with that is my brain can sometimes fall out and I may forget to turn it on or off
You could automate it with a low voltage disconnect. Mine looks like this^1 and was ~$8 a couple years ago.
^1 quick example, not necessarily a recommendation
^2 or model whatever VSR behavior you want to mimic
Yes, but are you sure you can run parallel when using a low voltage cutoff? The common low voltage cutoff module on Amazon specifically says not to use it for batteries in parallel….
https://www.amazon.ca/Digital-Low-Voltage-Protection-Battery/dp/B07929Y5SZ
Looks good except for one issue: I assume the LVC you're using is this one : https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Battery-Low-Voltage-Protection/dp/B07929Y5SZ/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=low+voltage+cut+off+12v+30a&qid=1630413548&sr=8-3 LVC is only rated to handle 20a. These have a tendency to go bad as a PW can pull 30a form a stand still. My suggestion is to have the LVC be a trigger for a relay that can handle 30-40a.
Gotcha, 12v motors at 18v will be great. I've seen a few people use this LVC. about 11$ on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Battery-Low-Voltage-Protection/dp/B07929Y5SZ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3BQ6C7PELTEQI&dchild=1&keywords=low+voltage+cutoff+board&qid=1630085598&sprefix=low+voltage+cutoff%2Caps%2C236&sr=8-3
I see these used alot. Digital Low Voltage Protector Disconnect Switch Cut Off 12V Over-Discharge Protection Module for 12-36V Lead Acid Lithium Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07929Y5SZ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_BBTHBV9HYARA247WC59R?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Best practice is to use it with a relay. The lvc + out is connected to the relays signal wire.
The relay handles the main load and the lvc monitors the battery, when it falls too low it no longer send voltage on the signal wire and the relay opens the circuit shutting down the vehicle
Higher RPM gearboxes do lose low end torque. 15k rpm is a good middle ground and what most use to achieve 5mph.
It'll be obvious the remote functionality will be unnecessary after a few solid months of riding. My 3 year old required all of a week worth.
if you're using SLA in series make sure to have matching AH ratings so you aren't discharging one battery more than the other. I recommend spade connectors for attachment to the battery.
Also consider you will need to be able to charge these batteries. I use a 4 flat trailer connector that's tapped into the battery terminal connections. I then use 2 charges 1 that is set for 12v and one set to 6v. When I plug in the 4 flat each charger is connected to the individual battery.
Fuse - Just spice it in with spade connectors.
Most wiring i recommend 12gauge size
LVC's are available on amazon use them as a trigger and not a load handler. Example - https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Battery-Low-Voltage-Protection/dp/B07929Y5SZ/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=low+voltage+cutoff&qid=1628005038&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExSTgwMEtMTVpQUUlSJmVuY3J5cHRlZEl...
Best practice is to use an LVC that signals a Relay (Relays handles the load).
Ryobi 18v batteries are a good option as they have an LVC built into them so that eliminates the requirement. I don't use drill batteries in my PW's so I can't comment on them too much.
Going 24v board isn't a bad idea to retain the functionality and i believe some operate in the 18-20v range. Only issue is the remote steering motor is also receiving the increased voltage (Causing it to turn super fast) I'd recommend a buck converter to step the voltage down.
When buying batteries measure the dimensions so you can make sure they fit.
This is what i used. Assuming the relay in the board is toast. Going to have to bring them to work to put them on a bench top power supply to further investigate what is going on. So far 2 of these I have went through. First one lasted a few weeks, second lasted 5 mins
There are a whole bunch of voltage programmable relays, what is available where you live might be different. You want to switch the inverter on and off though not power to the inverter as hard shut down all the time will not do it any favours. Also if its under load that will be very hard on your solenoid.
If you have controllers for your turbines they quite often have this facility built in. What are you using?
Link to the board: Digital Low Voltage Protector Disconnect Switch Cut Off 12V Over-Discharge Protection Module for 12-36V Lead Acid Lithium Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07929Y5SZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Y2PF4P09PXCWJEZ680KF
I went makita lithium because I already had 2 20v batteries and chargers.
I started with adapter plates from eBay like these. https://www.ebay.com/itm/224085582669 Make sure to find ones that fit something you already have.
Then those go into this little board that you set up to keep your expensive batteries happy and not run them down to much.
IS Icstation Digital Low Voltage... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07929Y5SZ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Now I’ve got 16-20v going to the little motor so it goes into this box that allows you to turn the juice up and down.
RioRand 7-70V PWM DC Motor Speed... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NQ5G71?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And that goes to the stock motor wiring. Add in a fuse and that’s about all you need. I copied someone I found on YouTube who used similar parts and it was up and running in under an hour.
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CCbSvwLAwwt/?igshid=9pbxc1bnc26h
If you have wiring and batteries should be up and running for about 50 bucks!
PS this this is awesome and I want to see it crush something.
These work great
I hooked up one of these to a battery attachment: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07929Y5SZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07929Y5SZ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
That, an 18V tool battery adapter of your choice, inline fuse (30A), and a brake reduction module from ML toys (https://www.mltoys.com/product-p/brake-reduction.htm)…and all the neighbors kids will be jealous
You want one of these
One of these will do exactly that for you:
That is correct. For any other li-ion brands besides Ryobi and Ridgid 18v, use one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Battery-Low-Voltage-Protection/dp/B07929Y5SZ
I see. The common lvc module (linked below) specifically says not to use batteries in parallel.
https://www.amazon.ca/Digital-Low-Voltage-Protection-Battery/dp/B07929Y5SZ
It fits in the adapter from surebonder.
You can use a prebuilt module that has a relay that turns of when the voltage drops below a preset value like this: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Battery-Low-Voltage-Protection/dp/B07929Y5SZ/ref=sr_1_4?crid=W6E2JTDFED22&dchild=1&keywords=battery+low+voltage+cutoff&qid=1628824253&sprefix=battery+low+voltage+%2Caps%2C539&sr=8-4
Or make a similar solution yourself, it takes a few components and a relay.
Or you can use a Li-ion/Lipo voltage tester that has a buzzer for low voltage warning: https://www.amazon.com/CAMWAY-Battery-Voltage-Monitor-Checker/dp/B07DC3LH9C/ref=pd_sbs_2/136-3103732-4210830?pd_rd_w=Ce10C&pf_rd_p=0f56f70f-21e6-4d11-bb4a-bcdb928a3c5a&pf_rd_r=XV7AJXFTK81ZHE9FE54F&pd_rd_r=04741633-dab9-4b42-8d39-0d0b6bcc19fb&pd_rd_wg=gFFhX&pd_rd_i=B07DC3LH9C&psc=1
You can connect one of these low voltage protector modules inline between the car battery and the charger.
You can set it to >13V to enable charging only when the engine is running.
I’m using this for a cut off. https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Battery-Low-Voltage-Protection/dp/B07929Y5SZ
I’ll try that. Got this one off Amazon.