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binbok Joy Pad Controller for Switch/Switch OLED, Wireless Joy Con Replacement Switch Controller 8 Colors Adjustable LED Joypad Controller with Back Map Button/Turbo/Motion Control (Black)?
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I recommend these, I enjoyed MH rise on the switch a lot more with them. They also made bayonetta, zelda botw, and Mario odyssey more fun in hand held mode.
Binbok is even better. It has everything the hori lacks; wireless, gyro, vibration.
I have the hori, as well as both versions of the binbok (slim and fat) controllers and never use the hori anymore.
This is the version I prefer, it's closer in size and orientation to the hori. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZH4XXNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_M23HE76M3FMWPANDDYAD
These are the new ones. I got mine a couple of days ago and I love them so far. No issues at all.
Joy Pad Controller for Switch, Wireless Joy Con Replacement Switch Controller 8 Colors Adjustable LED Joypad Controller with Back Map Button/Turbo/Dual Shock/Motion Control (Update Version) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZH4XXNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_A8GENFQYYPH5BWQJY7S4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
binbok Joy Pad Controller for Switch/Switch OLED, Wireless Joy Con Replacement Switch Controller 8 Colors Adjustable LED Joypad Controller with Back Map Button/Turbo/Motion Control (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZH4XXNY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_6K68HGB8KK35M2S8R49N
BOOM!
Also look at these if you want to be able to use them detached. The hori ones will only work while connected to the switch
I found them just a second ago. Here ya go dude
binbok Joy Pad Controller for Switch/Switch OLED, Wireless Joy Con Replacement Switch Controller 8 Colors Adjustable LED Joypad Controller with Back Map Button/Turbo/Motion Control (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZH4XXNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TWMR60YZA7MPCF82JK0F
As someone who pretty much only plays in handheld mode (the rare docked mode usage gets an 8BitDo controller), I can't recommend the Split Pad Pro enough.
Original joycons, I wouldn't be able to play for more than maybe an hour—a concern since I've been needing to take care of my hand/wrist region more than usual lately. With the Split Pad, I often end up forgetting how long I've been playing until I get a low battery notification.
The Split Pad is honestly a little big in my grip (~3" palm width), but that turned out to be a complete non-issue for me, so I have high hopes for the ergonomics of the Deck.
The lack of vibration and gyro aiming is supposed to be a downside, but neither of those mean much of anything to the games I play, so the Split Pad is perfect for me.
I was considering getting the Binbok Wireless as well, but the spotty quality control (also mentioned in another comment) put me off.
Just a heads up, there's also another version that has back buttons and a bigger battery that's a few bucks cheaper. Neither have NFC, though.
Own this 6.7 months no very long . I am carefully medium user. It has no toggle problem now.
Usually used toggle. some time use left thumb push toggle and Left index finger use d-pad together.(in rise)
It has same design as ps4 controller. I have ps2~ps4 so I don't have much problem with this. I also own xbox one controller and binbok Joy Pad Controlle. This change has no adaptation period for me.
binbok Joy Pad Controlle have 1 back map button but not practical. I use it to replace joycons in hold play. my joycons easy to leave switch : ( .It 168g all. not very durable in review.
Not tried any such controller since I play docked 99% of the time, but I want to add that another user last week recommended a different set over the Hori ones.
I believe it was this one, not certainly though.
From a headwear perspective the steam deck just looks solid. Honestly it picked a good time to come out. Everyone is trying all these high new techs shits that lead to headwear failure after a piss all amount of cycles. Steam going, hey look a working thingy, is the best marking move I've seen in ages. If people can do what they want with the hardware then it seems we got a real winner.
Also joycondrift sucks just buy a joycon that dosen't have that.
https://www.amazon.com/binbok-Controller-Wireless-Replacement-Adjustable/dp/B08ZH4XXNY
That’s not accurate. The new ones are available on Amazon and have been for about a week.
Joy Pad Controller for Switch, Wireless Joy Con Replacement Switch Controller 8 Colors Adjustable LED Joypad Controller with Back Map Button/Turbo/Dual Shock/Motion Control (Update Version) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZH4XXNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_799VMP243WGF9FQWN1FY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It’s the controller by Binbok, seems they have a separate page for a new model: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZH4XXNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S4N2SADFWGAV1D0T3W5F
I've been down this path before for myself, for each switch of every member of my family, and for friends... Here's what I think is the definitive answer.
For joy-cons, get the binbok ones. A grip can help with the ergonomics of a Switch, and I think it is worth getting, but the big difference here is the usability of the analog sticks. The official joy-cons are nice, but you will feel burdened by the short sticks on official joy-cons if you play any game with 3D movement that requires precision, like shooters or action combat in third person. There is the possibility of quality control issues, but it is easy enough to get your unit replaced. I don't think any other joy-cons comes as close to feeling like you're using a Pro controller while in handheld mode.
Check out this video by Wulff Den where he does a great review on this controller. Honestly, I strongly recommend him for coverage on Switch accessories. Great channel.
If you decide to go for it, here's the proper link to the Binbok listing on Amazon, assuming you're in the US.
As for grips, settle for nothing less than Skull & Co. They're a fantastic company that does high quality accessories for the Switch. I've tried out a lot of different brands over the years, but Skull & Co has always stood out for their well-made products. The competitors are cheaper, but you get what you pay for here. I'd strongly recommend the grip and case bundle for the OLED. I've owned mine for years and never felt disappointed, and I just ordered new ones for my kids. They look and feel great, and the cases are well designed to effectively hold everything you need on the go.
An alternative would be Binboks: https://www.amazon.com/binbok-Controller-Wireless-Replacement-Adjustable/dp/B08ZH4XXNY
I tried both these and the Hori, and actually prefer how they feel — They also include vibration and motion controls. That said, the vibration is definitely not "HD" haptic feedback. I turn the vibration to the lowest setting and it still rumbles like crazy.
Also, Binboks have a moderate QA problem. I ordered one and it started drifting right away. I returned it on Amazon and the second pair I've gotten has been flawless.
They also have a slightly smaller version that I've come to prefer: https://www.amazon.com/Controller-binbok-Adjustable-LED%EF%BC%8CWake-up-Vibration/dp/B08YR5NQYF/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B08YR5NQYF&psc=1
I tried several grips and settled on these Binbok ones. I really like them.
I'm sure it would if I used the joycons. I tried several grips and settled on these Binbok ones.
A fun alternative to the horis. Quality control is hit or miss though but if you can get a good one it's great.
Here, i was on a phone earlier and couldn't look it up. https://www.amazon.com/binbok-Controller-Wireless-Replacement-Adjustable/dp/B08ZH4XXNY I think they made some minor chagnes since I bought the first version.
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The build quality isn't the best, and the d-pad is mediocre but alright, but I'll take the added features it has over the hori pad (which I haven't tried to be fair).
This is going to be a long post, and it seems way more complicated than it actually is regarding my setup.
I have this Switch pad and only use the left half...
I generally put WASD on the stick, Ctrl on stick click, used the D-pad for Q, I, Tab, and M.
I also have an alternate binding where the stick is analog input for a gamepad for games that support simultaneous input from a gamepad and KB+M.
On top of that I have another alternate WASD binding where shift is on an outer ring binding and the underside button is bound to G.
I also put double tap inputs for Y, N, and Enter on the D-pad.
I leave Q on Up as an individual input as a lot of games use it as a hold, but put gyro reset on a hold for Down, which is also where I put enter.
I often use Q as a dedicated "heal" button and will put a med kit or health potion hotkey there if it isn't needed for something else.
Tab is on Left with N being a double tap, and I is on Right with Y being a double tap. A lot of games use "Y" and "N" to confirm or cancel on prompts for saving or exiting.
Generally speaking, this will give you access to menus, and most of the time any journals or character pages can be accessed this way without needing their own individual hotkeys.
Down is M and usually map access, and I also put gyro reset on a double tap, which is a very important key to have if you're using any sort of gyro bindings.
I tend to avoid "hold" bindings when I can as occasionally games will want you to hold down keys to do things and a hold binding will get in the way. It isn't always hold E and I've seen Q, F, M, Y, N, and Ctrl on occasion. Though E is the most common.
Regarding using the gyro, I've found that regardless of whether you're using Steam or ReWASD for bindings, it's best to only put one key binding on the gyro, which direction is a matter of preference. I prefer a downward binding, but left, right, or up would work just as well.
It's best to bind it to something that won't blow up in your face, waste resources if it misfires, or trigger a cooldown timer. So reload works really well there. A quick melee attack binding isn't a bad option either.
Screenshot button [the lowest right hand button on the gamepad's face] is Esc.
F9/F3 and F6/F5 are on the two shoulder inputs on the side if you were holding the gamepad sideways. This is quicksave and quickload. I put them there as they are out of the way and I never accidentally press either. The lower one is easier to reach, so that's quicksave.
I put shift on the minus key [top right most button] and bind it to the underside button.
LT is space.
I bind V to the LB.
I use the gyro to bind R to a downward flick. This covers reload and is a good use of motion controls that won't get in the way.
I also have an alternate binding where shift is on outer ring and the minus/underside button is G.
This covers the standard controls and plenty of hotkeys for 99% of PC games.
I usually use in game configuration to set up bindings rather than make a bunch of different profiles for the mouse and controller.
This is the software I use to bind the Switch controller.
I use the paid version because I like having the extra modifiers available, even though I rarely use them, but the free version will work fine for most.
I use ReWASD instead of Steam as it plays better with games and launchers that don't like the Steam overlay. Stuff like games on Origin or Uplay.
I also like how it handles the gyro better, I find it easier to reset and calibrate it on the fly with ReWASD.
I also like it because I can use it to bind gamepad inputs to my mouse, which I have a profile set up for.
I don't use it that way all that much, but it's nice to have if I ever come across a game where analog input is a clear advantage that doesn't support simultaneous input.
Though, there is a cheaper wired version. There are also other options for gaming mice with a button pad on the side, but I highly recommend finding one with a wave patter on the side, as it makes identifying where your thumb is much easier.
I put 1 on the button beside the LMB. I bind this to melee in general. If there's a kick or quick melee attack it goes here.
Some games don't have a feature like that, in which case if there's a melee weapon slot I'll put it there.
Sometimes it's a power or alternate attack. For example, in Fenyx Rising I put heavy attack here, and parry on MMB.
The bottom row of keys on the mouse number pad are E, F, X, and Z.
2-9 go on the number keys. I usually put two 2 on the eight key and have 3 and 4 in front of it on the middle row. This is because 2 is usually "pistol" or starter gun in most shooters, and it won't see as much use.
I tend to set up bindings so specific types of weapons are on specific numbers. 5 and 6 are usually explosives, 7 is sniper, 3 is usually shotgun, 4 will be an automatic rifle, 9 will be some sort of BFG or specialized weapon, 8 will be something like a plasma gun, etc...
It varies from game to game, but I try to set things up so that I have quickest access to the stuff I'll use the most, and my "panic button" BFG weapon is always in the same spot.
The trick to getting used to this sort of setup is to be as consistent with it as possible when you set up bindings in game.
I'll also often bind the MMB to grenade toss if available, or some sort of power, usually of a defensive sort like parry. I'll put a dodge on V if it's separate from sprint [shift] input.
If a game doesn't support binding MMB, which does occasionally happen, I'll use a profile where I've rebound MMB to 0.
I use the software for the mouse to bind it, unless I'm using it as a gamepad, in which case I use ReWASD to set that up.
My keyboard is still available if I need other keys for stuff like chat or push to talk, but I don't play MP much so it's mostly a non-issue. I could easily set up a binding for that if I needed it though.
I've yet to encounter any PC game this setup doesn't work for.
I still use a full gamepad for some stuff [I also have a DS5], like driving sims or side scrollers where mouse aiming isn't a thing like Dead Cells or something, but for pretty much any game where aiming or mouse navigation is a mechanic, this is what I use to play.
My biggest gripe about this is that I wish I could bind the lower button to something on the right half of the Switch controller, but it only supports bindings that are on the face of the same half of the controller.
This also means I can't bind the side buttons to it, or I'd have done that instead of putting quickload on the top side button.
Honestly though, even if the minus button was free, I'd just put Enter there most likely, or make it a talk/chat button.
That's basically how my setup works, and as I said, it seems more complicated than it is, and outside of the initial setup, I rarely have to change anything. Only a few profiles are need to play 99% of PC games this way.
Since everyone else seems to be skipping your question, the Hori Split Pad Pro is a fantastic Joycon replacement if you either only play in handheld, or have a Pro Controller to supplement with. It's got great build quality, and has worked great for me for years. Only flaws are No Gyro, No Rumble, and No Wireless functions, so it has to be connected to rhe Switch to work. You can find these at Walmart now.
Another option is the Binbok controller, which is functionally a Joycon Pro. Keeps all functions, and adds new ones. Effectively a better replacement for less money. I don't have a pair of these myself yet, but I have heard enough good things to be willing to recommend them.
If you're looking for a Pro Controller alternative, I cannot recommend the 8Bitdo SN30 Pro Plus and Pro 2 enough. Best controller I've ever bought, works on damn near everything (No PS/Xbox without an adapter, but connects to Switch, PC and phones/tablets perfectly), has all the major functions (though it cannot wake the system from sleep, but you do adapt, I promise), and has taken a few beatings without losing functionality at all. I'll be using this thing forever if I can get away with it.
Good luck, and Happy Gaming!
They look so cool.
I got this one. It has gyro and rumble (non HD) as well as battery so you can use it like a pro controller.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08ZH4XXNY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Nintendo should make an official one.
Could you give me a link? I've gone through four of these models and each one has had extreme drift develop on the left stick within a week. All logic and reason is telling me to give up on Binbok but they seem to be the only third-party controller with motion controls.
I don't have an answer but more questions!! By updated you mean these?
There are also these but I guess they're the old version?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08YR5NQYF/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A1MQP63Q54O1M&psc=1
I've gone through a couple pair of joycons and was looking to either get the binboks (the first one, curvy). The only other option that seems to have decent quality is the echtpower ones, have you tried those?
If you haven't already, you should go to the camera settings and max out the camera distance. Then in game settings, any type of player silhouette and hit effects to less for multiplayer.
If it's a control issue because you're using joycons, I'd highly recommend investing in third party "procons." I personally use the Binboks. There are several versions of this one, but this might be the only one with programmable back buttons. They're also really good for TV mode as well.
The Kydlans are also really solid. Clicker buttons, better dpad, and a second pair of back buttons (overkill, but they're there); but unlike the Binboks they can't be used separately from the Switch because they don't have batteries. They also don't have rumble motors; but honestly it's for the better in a lot of games imo.
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