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Kicker 46KISLOC Car Audio Amp 2 Channel RCA Line Output Converter KISLOC New?
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You can use a High to Low level converter to make the subwoofer work with the Pioneer.
idk about running a sub off the stock amp, little under powered to drive it IMO. I bought one of these, tapped into speakers behind the rear seat (vert) and ran to a 400watt amp https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-KISLOC-2-Channel-Speaker-Converter/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=sr\_1\_15?crid=2VG0H5U6GM2G2&keywords=kicker%2Bsub%2Bsplice%2Bkit&qid=1641356214&sprefix=kicker%2Bsub%2Bsplice%2Bki%2Caps%2C133&sr=8-15&th=1
I assume the gen 1’s do not have a “plug” for the speaker cable? I am not sure how those are set up.
I have also set up the same thing on AtGames ALU and pinball as well as the iircade and mvsx cabinets. Those do not have the 3.5mm speaker plug, so to get around that, I integrated this line out converter straight into the speaker wires. From there there is just a RCA cable connecting the subwoofer to the converter. Works loke a charm.
Kicker KISLOC 2-Channel K-Series Speaker Cable to RCA Adapter with Line Out Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_E6YM6KNJMV5SWDEXS2RK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I've used 4 wire high level to low level converter that is made for automotive HiFi and can be found on Amazon or any car audio shop
its brand new but it still shows both input and output connectors. Now I'm wondering if I need this adapter that someone suggested
If you're desperate for dome punchier bass, there are always options. I doubt you want an aftermarket stereo so that limits your options. But you also have the option of getting something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kzj.zbD5498FQ
With this you can splice from your speaker wire (or daisy chain from your rear speakers or subs) and turn them into rca ports for your amp. So you can add a subwoofer no problem. It might be a little more limited but it totally works. Unfortunately it doesn't take any stress from the other speakers but the '17 si speakers aren't too terrible anyway. They'd just sound better with a dedicated amp and some bigger subs. I hope this helps.
If the Audiocontrol is too much money, this should be the one you buy. One of the very few passive LOCs that's flat 20-20kHz.
Secondly, if you're just trying to add a subwoofer, you can find the speaker wires elsewhere in the vehicle pretty easy. No need to pull the head unit. Kick panel or running board.
Thank you. That's basically what I needed to know - that such a thing existed. I've purchased a couple of these on Amazon for $8.33 each:
Kicker KISLOC 2-Channel K-Series Speaker Cable to RCA Adapter with Line Out Converter
Hi Guys, I am new to this Vinyl world. I recently just bought a Pro Ject Debut Carbon with Pro Ject Phono MM...
I also just recently got my ELAC B5 Bookshelf speakers. The problem is that my speakers only take Speaker Wires and does not take RCA. Whilst my Phono Box MM only takes RCA and not Speaker Wires. I am new to this thing. Any help? Should I buy a Speaker Wire to RCA adapter?
Something like this?
Any help would be appreciated
its the kicker line out convert off of amazon
So basically the line out converter comes with 5 wires, 2 right wires, 2 left wires and 1 ground wire.
so essentially, if youre connecting to your rear speakers then you connect to the 2 right wires to the right rear speaker and 2 left wires to the rear left speaker. this requires you to cut the rear speaker wire though.
if your car comes with a stock sub, then you can simply connect the lineout to the stock sub and then to your amp. that way u can control the sub level from your headunit.
You need one of these.
Basically just have this little device in the back that converts the stereo speaker out to auxiliary. The auxiliary goes to the port.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Yes with the right adapter. They are usually meant for car audio but there is no reason they won't work for home audio.
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https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-KISLOC-2-Channel-Speaker-Converter/dp/B00I4EF1BC
Could I use something like this instead of stripping RCA cables?
I put a sub-in-box in the cargo part of the hatch. 500w RMS JBL subwoofer. I used a line in converter on the four wires to the subwoofer and sent that input to the amplifier, this let me control the bass without running a knob to the front. I found a wiring diagram for the subwoofer that someone had posted in a forum post. It made a WORLD of difference without being overpowering. The stock subwoofer sucks ass if I'm being honest
Line in converter: https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-KISLOC-2-Channel-Speaker-Converter/dp/B00I4EF1BC
No, but you will need this.
Gotcha. And then I'm assuming they are going into a high input on the amp for the sub? There's a couple of things you can do here. I'd suggest ferrite chokes - less than $10- and verifying polarity first. If that doesn't clean it up, I'd use something like this speaker cable to RCA so you can adjust the gain of the input signal before it hits the amp.
Kicker KISLOC 2-Channel K-Series... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Next, and this is probably going to solve it, between the converter and the amp install ground loop isolators on the RCA inputs
InstallGear Ground Loop Isolator... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Y5DLBB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Your amp is, well, amplifying. Your picking up noise somewhere. Hope this helps!
Bringing this 6 month old thread back, you could find a line to RCA adapter, splicing into the existing L/R positive/negative speaker terminals and then run that to the sub
https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-KISLOC-2-Channel-Speaker-Converter/dp/B00I4EF1BC/
something like that. I haven't done it but I've done similar work on my car stereo using a similar part and configuration.
Question would be: does it introduce any attenuation to the actual regular speaker outs and therefore does it cause any degradation in sound quality (or max volume)?
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I myself am just looking to upgrade the stock speakers with better 4x6's. Something with an actual tweeter integrated to brighten up the highs. The stock speakers are great, don't get me wrong but they have a blandness / grey sound in the upper spectrum my ear just can't unhear. I just need more crisp trebles than what these provide. The job looks super easy, just cut out the current speakers, and solder or crimp the replacement speaker cables to the stock proprietary wires (due to how they connect to the amp) and it should be good. Looks like the cut out for the speakers also will be "drop in" ready.
Here's the steps you need to accomplish what you want:
1) Get a BT receiver or a wifi streamer as your input.
2) Get a line level converter (like this).
3) Split your Arcam amplifier outputs between your speakers and the converter.
4) Use RCA outputs from converter to feed your subwoofer's input.
This will allow you to control volume of whole system via the Arcam volume control knob, since you're bypassing the internal electronics that perform the typical subwoofer output conversion. Both speakers and subwoofer will be getting full range signal.
Your source will be the Bluetooth module/receiver. Something like this.
It's sort of been answered, but I'm not sure if anyone linked a product. Speaker-level to line-level 'impedance converters' are used in car audio all the time, for exactly your use case: getting a line level audio signal (to send to an amplifier) when you only have speaker outs.
Here is a nice one from kicker for $20: https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-KISLOC-2-Channel-Speaker-Converter/dp/B00I4EF1BC/
Here is a generic one for under ten: https://www.amazon.com/Amplifier-Impedance-Converter-Adapter-Systems/dp/B08DD683FC/
Again this isn't strictly speaking the 'best' way to get a clean audio signal, but people do it all the time and are happy with the results. You don't even have to worry about 'alternator whine' creeping in, haha!
| Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
|---|---|---|---|
| Kicker KISLOC 2-Channel K-Series Speaker Cable to… | $21.95 | $21.95 | 4.5/5.0 |
^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger
If your sub doesn’t have speaker level inputs, you can buy a converter like this and you’re golden. You can just wire up one side into your sub, no need to do both channels. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC/
When i installed a system on my 17 Hyundai tucson, i didnt really want to mess with the dash stereo, i don't think any factory stereo has rca outputs, so you need a something like a line out converter , i used this one and connected to a door speaker and a tap in add a fuse to the fuse box inside the car, i hope the newer cars are still set up like that and you need to look at what yype of fuse your car has.. it was very simple. Install everything into the car first , just dont connect the power wire and fuse to the battery until your all done, i cant speak about a car getting damaged for having a disconnected battery, but if you just leave the dash alone and use a door speaker, then you dont have to disconnect the battery since what your installing is not going to be powered until its all set up.. now if you have a system already installed and everything ran, then u can still just remove the fuse so the amp doesnt get power.i hope this helps
Absolutely no problem. Although that sub needs a line level (low level) signal, it's not an issue.
Get one of these, wire the speakers to it, and plug in your rca cables to the sub. Done.
If you are spending $500 on a subwoofer, it is time for a new receiver with an RCA sub out connection.
Best value, DENON AVR-X1500H 7.2-Ch ~~$599~~ $299. 4K HDR HDMI, Audyssey MultEQ XT room correction EQ speaker setup, HEOs WiFi networking and streaming, smartphone app remote and Amazon Alexa voice control.
If you really have to continue using an outdated home theater in a box receiver, Kicker KISLOC Speaker Cable to RCA Adapter with Line Out Converter $20.
In order to use the GF603 with the FW15 receiver you would need a Speaker Cable to RCA Adapter with Line Out Converter to connect the GF603 speaker outputs to the RCA AUX input on the FW15.
If you already had the FW15 with an RCA AUX input than the GF603 all in one system is not the correct type of turntable to use with the FW15. The correct type of turntable to use with the FW15 is a component turntable with RCA output either with a built in phono stage preamp or an external one. See Receivers, Speakers, Phono Preamp.
In the audio world, we use a device called a DI box to do very similar things to what you're talking about .
some have a "line/speaker" switch on them to switch between line level audio and speaker level audio. This switch adds a resistor based voltage divider to the circuit which attenuates the output signal.
Car stereo based "line output conveters" are effectively the same thing without the isolation/balancing transformers that DIs tyipcally have.
if you're based in the us, this kicker line out converter would do the job for you
But it really is just a fancy voltage divider - if you have high watt resistors you can make the same thing yourself.
Edit: Be prepared for fun noises from fun sources with grounds and the like.
As u/enp2s0 said, the digital out will give you solid results. sometimes the digital output from the tv is fixed volume, so you wouldn't be able to change it with the tv remote, but that is model dependent.
Again, if you're us based, toslink digital to analog converters are widely available as well
That would allow you to connect via the toslink output.
A word of caution with these converters - sometimes they emit a "pop" when changing between sources and channels on the tv, that is dependent on the model of the converter and the tv alike.
The stock radio doesn't have a sub out so you'll need to buy a converter and splice it into the wires to the two front woofers. Here's one I would recommend: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_50mvDb2307B0E
Your stock radio likely doesn't have a line out, so you can use a line-out converter such as this or this. You can wire the inputs to your rear/trunk speakers and the RCA output goes to your amp. For your amplifier's remote turn-on input, you can find the fuse for the radio in your fuse box and use this with a second (much smaller) fuse. You do not need to remove your stock radio to install any of this. Crutchfield has nice instructions for installation in most scenarios. Happy wiring!
Being that you paid a decent chunk of change to have a professional do the install, you need to either stick with them or demand your money back and go to a more reputable shop. Just sayin... I'd be fuckin pissed.
That said, the load you should be looking for is 52-56 ohm on each channel. Actually, I think the Kicker KISLOC's dummy load value is right in that butter zone. But what you should really be using is the PAC AP4-CH41.
Or do I need the version with pre-out? https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-KISLOC-2-Channel-Speaker-Converter/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=pd_sim_107_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HEGESS0GF1Z6Z3B9PS40
You can do something cheap:
or expensive with adjustment:
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