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Okay so main thing you want is get an impact/ drill with an Dewalt XR battery. More than likely a company will provide power tools to you though. The smaller batteries will wear out fast and you’ll constantly be charging them.
Buy all Klein hand tools. Malco is king for sheet metal other than snips, get Midwest snips if possible. After a while upgrade to a fluke multimeter and use that Uei as a backup, if you get rid of it you’ll lose the fluke the first day.
Klein makes a 18 in 1 HVAC screwdriver which is handy. Get a gerber or leather man aswell.
Lastly I’ll advise you get one of the Klein electrical detection pen things. It’s saved me from getting zapped when switches have crumbled and no longer work.
Klein Tools NCVT-2 Voltage Tester, Non-Contact Dual Range Voltage Tester Pen for Standard and Low Voltage, with 3 m Drop Protection [link]
Any time I'm working on electric with just the switch killing the power, I always do two things:
I've seen some weird wiring in houses, and just because the switch is off it doesn't neccessarily mean the hot is off. It might just be a neutral switch - which is dumb but happens. And well, happened to me which is why I check constantly now.
Get a voltage pen instead of a multimeter.
I bought one for $4 from harbor freight and it works great.
Put the tester next to the outlet and see it light up and beep because there's voltage in the line.
Turn off the breaker for it and test again, it should not beep.
Replace it using the same wiring it had, so if it had both top nuts wired in, do the same for the new outlet. Put everything back in the way you took it off and you're done.
Using the voltage pen, there's virtually no risk in hurting yourself, but there's always a level of comfort for each person.
I have a Klein Tools dual range voltage tester. [link]
Looks like a pen. I hold it up to the switch and any of the wires and nothing happens. I hold it to the multi-switch and it goes red.
You can also voltage tester (stick type) , electrical tape, and Teflon tape.
The Teflon tape can help with plumbing, the voltage tester will tell you if there is juice to an outlet if you need to do electrical and know if it’s on.
Yes it looks like an old electrical box with old cotton coated wire. You can buy a non contact electrical tester and touch it to them to see if they’re still hot or abandoned.
A 15A outlet has 2 vertical bar (standard) a 20A outlet typical has a side "T" and a vertical bar. The breaker should also tell you if it's 15A or 20A. A 20A breaker would mean that you have slightly better wires to the outlet. You can still have a 15A outlet on a 20A circuit. Of the circuit is 20Amp then the freezer and the car at the same time should be fine.
Changing an outlet is trivial though so don worry about it. Watch a few video on YT and make sure the pawer is off. Get a pen voltage tester on Amazon for less than $20 to make sure the hot wire (red or black has no voltage after tripping the breaker. When putting the new outlet in use the screen not the "push in" holes. The screws give you a better contact and will keep the outlet from over heating. Male sure that the hot wire is connected to the golden screw and the the neutral (white) to the gray screw. Pop that back in and you should be good to go ��
First and foremost... Get a tester pen immediately! It could save you a lot of pain, time and even your life! You can find them just about anywhere but I throw a link at the bottom of this message for reference.
Test all the wires as you could have more than one circuit in box and not know it. Previous electricians are to never be trusted even if it is yourself. The pen will also help you to test which side of the switch is the line and which is the load once you turn the power on again.
It does make it hard with the paint over the wires at time but pull all the wires out of the box and you should be able to see the layout of things including the neutral that should be there.
Dual Voltage Tester, Non Contact Tester for High and Low Voltage with 3-m Drop Protection Klein Tools NCVT-2 [link]
You're still going to want to make sure nothing is live even after shutting breakers off. Definitely get one of these, lol. I've learned not to trust any of the electrical work in my house.
A properly installed switch never switches neutral. I've run into several fixtures with constant hot at the box. Get a non-contact voltage tester if you aren't comfortable with a multi-meter (or even if you are)
You're being incredible vague in a way that makes it difficult for us to help you. You're going to want a voltage testing pen, probably : one of these [link]
The basic procedure for any problem like this is to narrow it down. First, are the breakers all on? If they are, go to the electrical box that has the switch. Turn off all breakers, or turn off the main breaker.
Take the cover off and turn the power back on. Use the no contact voltage tester on it the wires in the box, keeping your fingers away from the terminals. Is there voltage there?
If there isn't, where does that wire go? Worst case scenario, you may have to enter the attic or basement to trace it.
If there is, is there voltage on the wires when the switch is on the on position?
If there isn't, take photos on the switch wiring and post them. If there is, the problem is at the ceiling fan box. Same exercise.
You're certain the fan is on same breaker? In my place, most of the breakers were labeled correctly, but i had a couple of outlets and switches that were tied to other breakers. Also, mine has switches and outlets separate. I believe I have upstairs outlets, upstairs lights, downstairs outlets, downstairs lights. I'm not sure what the norm is for this, but getting a little klein pen tester and tying your rooms/fixtures to their actual breakers in a google doc will be really helpful now and in the future.
If you're just trying to see if they're live or not, get just a hot stick. Unless you're going to use a multimeter for something else, this will save you a lot of money, and they're easier to use.
Also, just for something new to learn, it looks like the wires you're considering neutral are grounds. Assuming that because there is one in each bundle, and because you labeled them green. Ground and neutral are not the same. However, because of that, it makes this a little more difficult to read.
You should get a multimeter, but you should also be carrying a widowmaker. Just make sure to do alive-dead-alive testing.
By the way, i have used the fluke and the klein and I like the klein better for 3 reasons. First, you can put it into lower voltage mode where it will be much more sensitive than the fluke (if you didn't need to know which wire was hot, just that something was hot). Second, the tip on these is the weak point and the klein one is more robust. Third, the housing for the LEDs is not opaque and so you can see the lights in a sun lit area better.
Photographers have a saying: "the shitty camera you have with you is infinitely better than a great camera that you left at home". The widowmaker you could carry all the time, and it could be the difference between testing and not.
Ok, get one of these gizmos non-contact volt tester. It's a live line/power checker that makes an audible noise (or lights up or both) when it detects power or load. I know you say weather is an issue but this may save you time and money (expense from an electrician who will most likely do the same).
Go to every receptacle with the gizmo or your new found friend (breaker must be on). Point it at every recep, if it makes noise, it's live. When it doesn't, no power/juice. This is where it gets tedious. You will have to 1st) turn off breaker 2) open up said recep 3) check wires/screws for tightness (tighten if needed) 4) re-assemble recep 5) turn on breaker, grab gizmo and check for live load. At this point you will have to check said outlet but every outlet on the line. Repeat process if there are still "dead" outlets. Eventually you will get to the problem outlet (hopefully).
Electricity is more a process of elimination. What you may also have to get at the hardware store are a few extra outlets. Whatever electrician you hire will most likely with very high probability, do the same that I have described w/probably a little more tools. If you find that it is not a recep outlet that's gone bonkers but a line problem (chewed up line, pinched line, wire nut lose, etc), you will have to hire an electrician at this point. Good luck! PSO: electricty should be handled with great care and respect. If you are handy and feel confident with your handy skills, go for it. If not, don't attempt, wait the 2 days,and let a professional handle.
TL;DR: grab gizmo at hardware store, check for beep/light on recep, turn off breaker , open recep and perform diagnostic, reassemble recep, turn on breaker, check for beep. If no, repeat on all receps. If no on all, you got some expensive repairs on your hand.
I think one simple and pretty cheap tool that everyone should have that owns a home is a live circuit finder/tester. You can get this model from Home Depot also. [link]
If you're doing anything with the homes electrical system like installing a new light or ceiling fan or light switch or electrical socket, this is a must IMO.
Essentially you put it next to a suspected AC voltage and if it's present it lights up.
It kinda sounds like you're bad at your job... $20 to save your life
Do you have a non contact voltage tester? You’ll need to find the actual hot wires with the breaker on.
You have a recent build. On your electric panel is the breaker that serves the bathroom outlets clearly marked? Hopefully it's going to give a clue into a possible location where the real culprit is located. I'm positively convinced that somewhere on that circuit you have another gfci outlet.
Because you guys are comfortable replacing an outlet as unlikely as it is, it's also possible that event caused one of the cfgi's to go bad on that circuit. Turn off breaker, take off plates the outlets and use something like this to see if current is present in the wiring (black) after you turn the breaker back on: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FXJOQO/
If the current is there but outlet is not resetting - there's your culprit.
p.s. Your outside outlets are probably not gfci because somewhere up the leg inside the house there is one that serves them. This is a good opportunity to learn electric layout of your place.
Definitely get one of these to test for any currents
I replaced all the switches in my apartment and wouldn’t touch a single terminal without confirming it was inactive.
So, especially in an older house, you should never trust the wire color. White is usually neutral and black or red is usually line, but people often do weird things. Given the photos you supplied it looks like white is neutral and the other wire is the load so most likely you can wire it up as you suggested, but it would be best to confirm before you wire it up.
Separate the 2 wires and put a wire nut on. Then turn on the breaker and test using a no-contact tester like this: https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-NCVT-2-Standard-Protection/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2QCFOL0W716A1&dchild=1&keywords=no+contact+electrical+tester&qid=1599601115&sprefix=no+contact+electr%2Caps%2C218&sr=8-2
This allows you to touch the pen anywhere on the insulation and test for current. Then you'll know which wire is neutral and which is hot for sure.
And always keep the breaker off except for when you are doing the test and be very careful not to touch the wires for the short time you have the breaker on.
Woa. Yeah, I'm in the US and we're a bit different. I can offer some suggestions though.
I did a couple of searches and I think I found the homepage:
I'd try to contact them and inquire about replacement keys perhaps or ask how difficult they are to pick. As in can you stick a bent paperclip or screwdriver inside and rotate whatever is locking it on.
I wouldn't be worried about getting shocked by sticking stuff inside. You have one of two setups from my searching. Either a C outlet or an L. In a C there's only two holes for hot and neutral, neither of which you can reach as the plastic prongs of the plug are stuck in the holes. If it's an L then the middle hole is ground, which doesn't have power on it and is there for safety. In the event of a short in the wiring the ground plug takes the voltage away from the house and into the ground while tripping the main breaker and cutting power to the house. Also if you could stick something metal inside the keyhole and get shocked it would kind of defeat the purpose of the child safety plug :)
If you do want to take it apart from the wall I'd recommend popping your breaker manually and killing power to the room (if you can. Not sure how homes are setup in Italy).
You can also get a tool to help you double check the power on the socket to make sure it's safe. Something like this:
You'll probably have better luck contacting the manufacturer though. Good luck!
One of these will help a lot.
Or a standard multimeter.
Sorry, you're are all being incredibly helpful but I have a few questions.
I don't really understand what a proxy (pen) tester or multimeter is. Also what is proxy and EMF?
Do you mean to get something like this:
Sorry for all the questions
I don't own one.
Would something like this work - [link]
I would buy a voltage tester. They’re really handy to have around the house.
Tap them on your wires, switches or outlets to see if you’re getting power.
>an electrical safety tester
Is that like a Klein Non-Contact Voltage Tester to see if the circuit is still hot/energized?
They save lifes
doorbells are easy enough to handle, as long as the transformer is still good. the transformer converts your home's 120volt electricity to 12 volts (usually) via this large, fist sized looking block, usually located nearish to the breaker box.
doorbells are run in a low voltage loop. the power is supplied from the breaker box or a nearby junction box to the transformer. then it runs from the transformer in a big circle to the chime and the buzzer. when you press the doorbell buzzer, you're completing the circuit and it causes the chime to sound.
turn off the power to the transformer, check with a voltage tester.
unscrew buzzer or chime. you can do either one first. it doesn't really matter. just make sure you have a clamp or something like that hand. sometimes those little wires like to fall back into the wall. clamp the wires so that they don't.
once either part is unscrewed from the wall, you'll see two contacts. usually it doesn't matter which wire connects to which contact, provided you get a standard two wire doorbell system. disconnect the two wires from the existing contacts.
clean off the wires a little bit. they're probably dirty and oxidized. if they're really nasty looking, you can cut them back a little and strip the coating off the wire for some fresh copper.
reattach the wires. you'll probably need a little screwdriver for this.
i like to seal around the doorbell buzzer with some caulk. helps protect it from the elements a bit.
attach the chime/buzzer back to the wall. some just fasten with screws. others have mounting brackets that fastened to the wall with anchors or something. then the actual faceplate of the chime/buzzer snaps on to that.
turn your power back on at the breaker.
test it out.
act smug and cocky with your SO about how easily you completed this and never let him/her forget it by always saying "remember that time..."
If you would rather go the Amazon route here is on.
Grab a voltage detector and see if it's even hot.
[link] i highly recommend a wigger. It's cheap, and for most repairs is all you need.
Get yourself a voltage tester and you can trace the outage back to the source. Start with the fixture, then work your way back.