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KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit?
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They are pretty much identical with the P having slightly more power (which will be inaudible). The I is more compact so if room is not an issue then the P would be fine. I would also invest in a better amp kit. Knukonceptz makes a solid kit.
Also I would not buy the amp from Amazon unless you know the seller is an authorized retailer. Otherwise no warranty.
The kit I linked is about the cheapest you're going to find a full-spec pure copper wiring kit. The kit you linked says it's not true AMERICAN wire gauge (AWG) and at that price, I HIGHLY doubt it's pure copper. Likely copper-clad aluminum, which cannot carry the current that pure copper can. I know you're on a budget, but go for the better wire. You'll be happy you did.
That Knu kit is sold on Amazon too. If the shipping works out to be cheaper or whatever.
Don't cheap out. All "4 gauge" kits are not equal, in actual size or metal composition.
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Second of all, you're trying to push subwoofers with an amplifier designed to push door speakers. You can bridge the rear channels to the sub box and then use the front channels to your front speakers if you like.
That amp wiring kit isn't bad. At least it's OFC. When I first saw it I was worried it was CCA too. You could have saved a bit of money by going with KnuConceptz Kolossus from Amazon. It would be at least as good as the one you bought, plus it includes the RCA wires and speaker wire, all for $50. Really can't beat KnuConceptz.
The brand and model number should be printed on the amplifier somewhere. Again, rampant lies in advertising specs. So simply saying it outputs 1125W RMS could be real or a marketing lie. Brand and model number along with some experience is the answer.
If it's a true 1100W RMS, you'll need this amp kit.
Hmmm. I honestly think that's a typo. Those terminals look 8 gauge to me. And 500W is perfectly fine on 8 gauge, so long as it's true 8 gauge and not "Boss 8 gauge". But you did say you want new door speakers and an amp on them too. So if you're planning on getting a 2nd amplifier, or a larger multichannel amplifier for the subs and door speakers, yes, I recommend running true 4 gauge now. No reason to waste money and do the same job twice. This is the best 4 gauge kit for the money, without question. Any cheaper than this, you're getting short-changed on something.
Then this kit is perfect. Real 4 gauge. Real copper.
Undersized wire causes voltage drop. Amplifiers can handle that in a couple different ways depending on their power supply design. Unregulated amplifiers will just output less power. Regulated amplifiers will attempt to pull additional current to give you the same power output. However, since you're wire is already undersized, this just compounds the problem and the amp generally starts shutting down when you push it hard.
The most important thing to remember is to never use a fuse amperage rating higher than the wire itself can handle, REGARDLESS of what amplifiers you have. For the above linked kit, 100A is fine.
The factory wiring is rated for very low current draw, unless you're running an absolutely tiny amp your going to have issues. That's why amp kits are a thing. If you're running a smaller gauge wire than your amps manual calls for you are going to have issues.
It's OFC you're good to go. Still expensive as hell. Not sure if you can get This or how much it would be.
i agree with /u/effin_dead_again about the don't use boss anything. However I would wait it out and order knuconceptz personally. ~~Given your requirements I don't think you'll really need the OFC (oxygen free copper) kit, this KCA (copper clad aluminum) should be fine.~~Edit: after being reminded by /u/effin_dead_again as to why i shouldn't recommend CCA, I have changed my kit recommendation to the 4G OFC knuconceptz kit.
That is a pretty crappy kit. this is about as good as it gets fro the price:
super-noobish question.
If I'm running both a 4-channel amp and a mono amp for a subwoofer, do I need to purchase 2 separate amp wiring kits or will one be enough?
I just did some more reading about CCA vs OFC and I think going with OFC would be the better choice. Does this OFC version of the same kit seem to check out OK to you?
I'd probably get 4 gauge OFC wire. Something like this Knukonceptz kit: https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=4+gauge+ofc&qid=1552304789&s=gateway&sr=8-3
The kit you picked is fine it's just cheap because it's CCA wire. Ideally you want OFC wire which is more expensive but generally lasts longer and there isn't as much voltage drop. Here's a video on the difference between them: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ms-wqCFaghs
http://www.parts-express.com/t3-audio-t57c-5-x-7-coaxial-speaker-pair--269-095
Pair of 5x7, components are better for the front but if you dont have the mach system then some customization is required for that.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_96295_West-Coast-Customs-WCC2200.5-by-MB-Quart.html
5 channel amp
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_90855_American-Bass-VFL8D4.html
Subwoofer
Box
Wire kit
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EEO4WD4/ref=dp_ob_neva_mobile
Head unit
KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BNX18HXPR422REY2PPNX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1.
KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_RW340WK6SRMEHN7Z1869 Or Recoil PCK44 True 4 Gauge 99.99% Oxygen Free Copper Complete 4-Channel Amplifier Wiring Kits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09C1SL2FM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_AX2GN66Y0V4QTFVW7A6E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'd do like perseus053 mentioned and use the 4 channel amp for the front speakers, then come up with something better for the subs. Also, verify the cable lengths needed before buying.
Amp install kit (comes with RCA's for sub) - https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/
RCA cables (get two of these) - https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Klarity-Cable-Channel-Interconnect/dp/B0092YV15S/
Wiring harness for base Avalon is probably this one, but may depend on your car's trim level - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120701761/Metra-70-1761-Receiver-Wiring-Harness.html
Get block to split the power wire to the amps too, something like this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D1JLN8N/
That kit will not work. It says 5 guage wire, and doesn't specify the type, that means it is CCA.
Use the chart on this Crutchfield guide. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-XZfpwgPxWiC/learn/learningcenter/car/cable_gauge_chart.html
You said your amps will have 1200 watts RMS. For a run any longer than 8 feet from your battery. The minimum you will need is a 4 guage OFC.
Use something like this KnuKonceptz 4 Gauge OFC Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_fabc_RP7XD7119BG9YTRPD0PV
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CIJBKK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Will this work with this 2 of these
With this amp
1) if the amp can take a high level input then you would not need the LC7i.
2) you can reuse the factory speaker wires but it would still require to run wires from the amp to a location where the factory wires are located.
3) definitely a better route to take to save some money, but stock on stuff could be an issue.
If you are after simple then I would probably do something like:
Subwoofer- $370.00 you will lose a slight bit of output but it will sound much better. it has built in amp and accepts high level inputs.
Front speakers- $150.00. I would spend money on the front speakers and keep OEM rear speakers or delete them all together. You get much more bang for you dollar this way.
2 channel amp- $100.00 would match well with the Maximos
Amp kit- $60 not sure if Amazon will ship over there or if there is an Amazon for that side of the world.
this comes to $680.00
Yeah, its out of stock on site, but the general kit is what you want. Amazon link. So that amp does 60 watts at 4 ohms per channel. That is underpowering your speakers, which is fine, but it won't be as loud. Your sub would be 2 ohms, so 450 watts, which is overpowering, still fine. It just leaves you no room to upgrade. If you decided you want more power for your speakers, you need a new amp. Where with the other one, its $70 less, and has 150 watts at 4 ohms. Which not only gives you headroom for your speakers, but gives you room to upgrade in the future if you wanted to without getting a new amp. If you put a channel per VC on the sub to the amp, it will give you up to 300 watts, which is more than your sub needs still. The only downside to this is that it more or less deletes your rear speakers, which doesn't really matter unless you frequently have people back there. The good thing about this amp is that it leaves room to upgrade. Want to get a bigger sub? Great, get a sub amp, and you can use the rear channels on the amp to add rear speakers. Also, I do not have experience with the hifonics amps, but I have heard that they do not perform to spec generally. Generally, I like to stay away from 5 channel amps. If you want to upgrade something, you need to get rid of it entirely, and most of the time its cheaper to get a 4 or 2 ch amp and a separate mono amp for the sub. If you do want a 5 ch amp, there's a nice pioneer below that's nice (Spec sheet since amazon sucks), or here's another NVX that's nice. None of the 5 ch will be giving your door speakers the 100 watts they are rated for though
The dash kit for the head unit in your car comes in several different colors. So make sure you're buying the correct color to match your dash. And just a heads up, they're painted to match the dash when brand new. So it's not uncommon for a 9 year old dash to have faded a touch and the kit to be a shade off.
I'm not sure why mityman50 was recommending 5.25" speakers when you have 6.5" installed all the way around. You also have an area at the top of the front dash, correct? I believe the baseline audio system just doesn't have anything installed there. But it would be a solid idea to buy a component set and mount the tweeters in there and the woofers in the door. Morel is a decent choice. The Morel Maximo 6 component set is $127 through tomorrow on Crutchfield . Add the matching coaxial in the rear and you're at $200 for some decent speakers.
The Pioneer 210EX is a solid buy for the price. And buying from Crutchfield will get you the dash kit and wiring harness for free. Keep in mind you'll need another adapter to keep your steering wheel controls working. They'll give you a discount on it when you buy from them. Call em up and they usually work as good/better deals than online.
Crutchfield's 4 gauge wiring kits are too pricey. This is one of the best 4 gauge kits made and it's cheaper. If you've got the money to swing it, you might think about adding a small amp on those door speakers too.
You won’t be able to see voltage drops normally, the amp may be getting voltage but not enough amps. Check continuity on the amp wire and make sure there’s not added resistance in the wire. Should be damn near nothing.
And I’ve always had good luck with the kicker kits and I’ve hear good things about the knukonceptz kits.
Normally when a client comes in to us and says that they have a amp cutting out and going into protect mode, we swap it with our shop test amp and sub, which is a kicker cxa 600.1 and kicker comp r 12” and we crank the shit out of it and see, if it cuts out with that system then we swap the wires and all is good, if it doesn’t we sell them an amp and sub.
KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Gg.7Cb5PNTECF
Kicker PK4 4 Gauge OFC Power Amplifier Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IFA6C1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fh.7Cb7E4TQZN
$700 is a little tight for subs, box, wiring, amp, all new door speakers, possible amp for them.
A Dayton HO is a great bang for the buck. Here's about the cheapest amp to push it, that's not a piece of shit. Here's the cheapest 4 gauge wiring kit that's not shit. Here's the cheapest LOC that's not shit. Then you still need a box for the sub. Either building it yourself or buying a prefab is going to run you ~$50. So we're at ~$460 already. I'd throw a Key amp on those factory door speakers and let its DSP do work. So that's $660 total, plus some possible tax or shipping.
Related but separate note, I'd like to see what connector your factory head unit has. There were two possibilities for that vehicle. But I'd think about buying the male and female Metra harnesses for the head unit. It'll make splicing in the Key amp and LOC easier and cleaner. No cutting factory wires. Should be like $30 total. Search 70-1722 and 71-1722 on Amazon for example. If that harness looks like yours, buy em. But it might be the 70-1729 harness?
I’ll be the guy to give you some advise seeing there has been no post in 13 hours, I’m no professional.
$35 copper 6ga amp wire kit Walmart - Locally
$50 KnuKoncepts 4ga OFC amp kit Amazon
Only use OFC (Oxygen Free Copper) Wire
$127 Audio Controls LC6i LineOut Converter Amazon
This let’s you keep your stock radio and add the two amps
$140 Alpine MRV-F300 SonicElectronix
Power your new door speakers for increase loudness and clarity
$80/pair NVX 6.5” Component Kit SonicElectronix
Two sets would cover your doors, they are a high enough rms where the amp will not blow them as long as you have it tuned properly and it’s not turned all the way up! Distortion kills speakers! I would disconnect your rear deck center speaker.
$101 2X Alpine W12S4 12” Single 4ohm Subs SonicElectronix
$90 Ported Subwoofer Box- almost optimal size. SonicElectronix
check your trunk measurements you might have to go with a smaller sealed box*
$150 Alpine MRV-M500 Subwoofer amp SonicElectronix
You will be slightly over budget. Self install or nothing. Many areas to improve in the future. Goodluck
Umm no where in that car has 6x9s. Even under the hatch. Ditch those speaker altogether.
Subthump was founded on the F-Body sub boxes. Awesome enclosures. That little passenger side stealth box would be great. Or if you want more than that, there's options for that too.
Power the whole car with this amp and this wiring kit. Your stock speakers are actually 6 3/4", but 6 1/2" will fit. Just noting, if the brand you choose has a 6 3/4" option, buy em (many do). The speakers are up to you man. Whatever you think sounds the best. Infinity is a fine choice, though I'm not sure why you choice the shallow mount version? JBL and Infinity are both owned by Harmon and are really turning into the same dang speaker. How about the 6.5" component set up front? They'll sound damn nice off that amp. Then I'd run no tweeters behind the listener. Use a pair of these. take note that's the PER SPEAKER price. Those will give you tons of punchy midbass while not ruining your front stage.
The subwoofer is up to you. Here's some options for you. Option 1. option 2. option 3.option 4.
That should bring you in around ~$800 said and done. Enough left to run two subwoofers instead. mwahaha
If you want loud, then I'd do this in two steps. Step one gets you pretty dang loud, but be smart about your gear selection. So next year you can spend another 200 bucks on step two and be super friggin loud! :-D
So go with this amplifier and this subwoofer. That one 15" will hang with those two entry level Pioneer 12"s. Build a vented box for it and it'll bang for sure. Then in a year or whatever, buy another Sundown E-15D4. You'll wire them both together which will show that Pioneer amp a 1 ohm load, which means more power out. So you'll double your cone area by moving to two 15"s and increase power out of the amp for an added 165 bucks.
As for wiring, all wire IS NOT created equal. You'll want full-spec full-OFC 4 gauge. This kit is far and away your best bang for the buck. Very high quality and will outlast your car. It takes power to make power and this wire can carry it.
Also, if you don't want to build and carpet your own box, this one actually seems pretty decent. The port is nice and large and looks larger than most (which means a lower tune for everyday bumpin). 3/4" Grade A MDF. When it comes to pre-built boxes, seems like a winner. I know I couldn't build my own for less than that. Wood, carpet, terminal cup, all adds up. (No clue why it calls out the MTX sub. Ignore it.)
Use this LOC instead. One of the VERY few passive LOCs that has flat frequency response at rated power in. That shitty Scosche rolls bass off as the inductors inside become over saturated. The Pioneer amp comes with a knob, use that.
Also, use decent wire.
Everything else looks fine overall. The box is only 5/8" wood, which is below standard. But at least the port in the center should help with bracing a bit. You could always buy the subwoofers separately (they sell them for $97 each) and then a better box which uses 3/4" for like 85 bucks.
Sweet thanks for the recommendation. Is this the same thing but with blue wire instead of red? Would be nice to get it off Amazon so I can use Prime.
I've heard good things about these. I just became a dealer for them but haven't placed an order yet. They seem to be pretty high quality. And comes with everything you need. Not sure if it's extra in Canada or not though.
https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK
Also t spec makes good stuff. I've used these before. 8 gauge may be enough for you depending on how long you're running your wire.
Both these are also oxygen free copper like the crutchfield kit
For $1200 you can get a decent set of component speakers, 5 channel amp, and a pair of custom made enclosures for subs.
Pioneer 5 channel - 279 shipped
Wire kit - $60 shipped+ $20 extra for a 4-channel set of rca's
Pioneer TS components - $90 shipped
LCI7 line out converter - $114 shipped
We're at roughly $570 shipped without the sub+box+install. Do you want overwhelming bass for the low end, or something subtle to blend in with the mids and highs? A mix of both perhaps? Also, did you REALLY want that vehicle specific box for the extra trunk space? A shop could fabricate a fiberglass form fitting enclosure for typically $350.
To answer your initial question: No, an 8" sub and form fitting box is NOT worth $800 extra. In fact, the $1200 package is a rip off equipment wise since you only get tweeters + dsp/amp + 8" sub/box. What you're paying for is ease of use and pre-processed sound. You may want to go to the dealership and try to listen to a car with this set up anyways.
If you want to fill in the lows for a balanced sound that should fit the bill. If you want to get loud.... you'll need to up your budget a bit and look elsewhere.
Also, that best buy deal doesn't include a box or install kit... Installing a sub and amp is pretty easy if you've got time and very basic diy skills.
For a super simple, nice sounding system that will melt your face when you crank it up, consider the following.
You will need 160 amp alternator or more and a big 3 upgrade to get the most out of it, and building your own ported box instead of sealed would add even more output.
> I am planning on replacing all 4 door speakers, which I believe are 5" with 6x8 kicker cs series. Total cost for the speakers being $100.
You'd be far better off with 5.25" components, and spending your money on the fronts only to get better speakers. The Kicker CS are frankly pretty damn bad. Try these. You can run them off HU power for now and amp them later to improve the sound.
> I still have the stock stereo, and I'm debating on even replacing it, because if I do, I will lose my fuel economy button/readings. If I replaced it, I planned on replacing it with a Kenwood DPX502BT. It is amplified and I was told with the Kenwood amplifying to the stock amplifier then to the speakers that would increase total wattage to the speakers. I'm not sure if I actually need that, since right now with the stock blown speakers I can definitely turn them up past where I would ever listen to them already. So aside from having bluetooth, I don't see much of a benefit.
You can keep the stock HU and run a LOC to an aftermarket amp, or you can use an aftermarket HU and run straight to an aftermarket amp. Putting aftermarket speakers on the factory amp is a bad idea. There's too much built-in, un-defeatable processing on that signal that doesn't work right for anything other than the speakers it's meant for.
> Next I was going to put a cheap sub in there. There is a 8" bandpass sound ordinance sub on crutchfield for $100. Very good reviews on it considering the price point.
Please don't do that. This sub (dual 2 ohm) in a simple sealed box, or a custom ported box if you want to do a bit more work, would serve you much better. You also need a sub amp, which it looks like you haven't considered. This is a great budget amp. You also need a wiring kit, like this one.
I pulled the trigger and ordered the following:
Ordered * $59.99 x1, cabling kit: https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1485144399&sr=1-1&keywords=knukonceptz+ofc
Ordered * $105.99 x2, subwoofers http://www.woofersetc.com/e-8-v-5-d4-sundown-audio-8-300w-rms-dual-4-ohm-ev-5-series-subwoofer.html
Ordered * $229.99 x1, amplifier http://www.woofersetc.com/p-12418-sae-600d-sundown-audio-monoblock-600w-rms-digital-class-d-amplifier.html
Ordered * $61.95 x1, line out converter https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-LC2i-Line-Output-Converter-AccuBASS/dp/B01EE3Y7GG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485198377&sr=8-1&keywords=lc2ib#HLCXComparisonWidget_feature_div
Ordered * $69.92, x1 enclosure. 39Hz, 0.9cu ft ea. HxWxD 12x29x15 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AOKRFA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The cabling kit comes with the fuse, speaker wire and RCA cables (with built in remote wire).
Is there anything I'm missing for the install?
Edit: Updated with LOC, OFC cabling and enclosure
- $59.99 x1, cabling kit: https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1485144399&sr=1-1&keywords=knukonceptz+ofc
- $105.99 x2, subwoofers http://www.woofersetc.com/e-8-v-5-d4-sundown-audio-8-300w-rms-dual-4-ohm-ev-5-series-subwoofer.html
- $229.99 x1, amplifier http://www.woofersetc.com/p-12418-sae-600d-sundown-audio-monoblock-600w-rms-digital-class-d-amplifier.html
- $61.95 x1, line out converter https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-LC2i-Line-Output-Converter-AccuBASS/dp/B01EE3Y7GG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485198377&sr=8-1&keywords=lc2ib#HLCXComparisonWidget_feature_div
- $64.99 x1, enclosure https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_81275_Atrend-8DQV.html
Total ~$628.9
That's what I came up with. However, you're making a really good point about the factory HU potentially cutting off low frequencies. I understand that I'd have to get into the DSP area if that is the case ($150+ additions), then it gets serious!
edit: And yeah, I know that it's quite a setup for an "initial upgrade", but on the plus side it's mostly plug and play.
edit2: There might be better / cheaper amps that will work but I'm not too familiar with other brands.
How much room do you have and how much power can you handle? those are the questions you need to answer first. If you are going to run off of stock electrical i believe you probably have a 95 amp alternator which will allow for a modest system probably around 500-700 watts. I would probably opt for 2x10's or a single 12 depending on the room.
Does the 500 include box and wiring or just sub and amp? Wiring is going be about $75 for a quality amp kit. Box depends on which route you go. I would avoid most prefabs as they are cheaply built and do not match specs of the subs for the most part. You can find a few decent sealed prefabs but you need to be careful. Make sure the volume they list actually matches the dimensions; Make sure they used 3/4" wood, bracing, and double or 1" baffle.
Sub:
http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/sundown-audio-sa-12-750w-sa-series.html
Amp:
http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/twisted-sounds-ts600.html
Wiring kit:
https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK
Leaves $100 for a box. I would go with a ported enclosure for most output and build it myself. Not very difficult with a little research and simple hand tools. sheet of 3/4" MDF is $30-$40 depending on where you live.
the hu you have has an rca preout so all you need is an amp, amp kit, subwoofer and box. this can tun you as little as $300-$400 or as much as a couple of thousand depending on your goals and budget.
For subwoofer i would think a single 10" in a sealed box. if sound quality is what you are after I would look at Fi Q, SSA Gcon (unavailable atm), CSS SDX, and even the Sundown SA. If ou want to go ported the above will work for SQ subs but can also look at Soundqubed HDC, DC Level 3, American Bass TnT, and Incriminator. i would stick to around 500-750 watts ( i know the Fi is higher than that but it is a Badass sub).
for amps i would look at Twisted Sounds, Us Acoustics, NVX, Sundown (bit pricey unless you find them refurb from DB-r or Amplab), Zapco, etc.. there are a million ways to go with amps.
Next is the box. If you have any skills at all and some basic tools you can build your own and save a lot of money. if you go the prefab route i would not recommend buying a ported box as i have not any that are worth damn. you can get away with a sealed prefab as long as it is the correct size and built solid.
Next is the amp kit. i would buy an OFC kit properly fitted to the size of amp you get probably somewhere around 4 awg. something like this will come with what you need:
https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK
last i would recommend you do the big 3:
http://knowledge.sonicelectronix.com/car-audio-and-video/how-to-big-3-upgrade/
haha oops i read that too fast. Its OFC https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CIJBKK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Okay so for this kit -- Does this look good?
Thanks so much for all your help by the way, I really appreciate it.
First and foremost, find the amperage output of your alternator since that will be a limiting factor on what you can run power wise. So you've got a great head unit, so now you'll need:
Power wire, ground wire, RCA's, Speaker wire - Knukonceptz kolossus for $60 shipped is solid, and remember you'll have to get 4-channel RCA's in addition
Hertz ESK 3 way component set - $285 shipped. Love hertz products. Remember, midbass is all about the install.
4 channel amp (to run midrange and midbass, then you can run tweets off HU power) - Banda amp. It does 200x4 at 4 ohms, plenty of power to drive the mids and midbass.
Subwoofer amp - Rockford 1200.1d, efficient and bulletproof. More than enough for the suggested sub.
12" Subwoofer - Fi alpha 12 is an awesome budget sub, hand made in USA. Make sure to get the Dual 2 ohm High xmax voice coil. Only get the extra spider and compression plug if you plan on running more than rated power (more than 600 watts).
Enclosure - Dont need a link for this since you can build your own. If you buy from Fi they can suggest the best specs for your application. If you want a relatively flat response with plenty of output, build on the larger side of recommended air space and tune the port fairly low (28-33hz). Make sure to have plenty of port area.
Maybe you can do what I did and use the stock location for tweeters to mount the midranges, and then get custom tweeter pods built and mount them to the A-pillars. There is a guy on ebay from Germany who can build custom anodized aluminum pods for $80-120.
Total shipped to your door: $1260
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