Though the picture looks like 1"x12" interior pine boards, I'd stick to making this with 3/4" interior sanded ply.
Probably would take two sheets by looks.
Buy a Kreg Jig Jr for like $40 (The one I got from Lowes came with 150 1.5" pocket screws free.... buy some more, you'll need em.)
Then sand and paint it. I'd also stiffen/shore up the legs with some 45" triangle pieces "glue & screwed" (as shown in the picture).
If you want "natural" then get hardwood ply and some matching 1" iron on edge veneer. (I'd also recommend a router with a flush trim bit.)
If you have access to a friend or community center wood shop, a table saw will make this much more precise. It's all a bunch of pieces the same width and a bunch of same length for the vertical pieces.
Tools needed at a minimum: Circular Saw (Or hand saw if using pine boards) Jig Saw or Coping Saw Wood Glue (I'd use Tightbond 3 or Gorilla Glue) 90" Angle ruler (or t-square)
Optional: (But you won't e disappointed) Pocket Screw Jig Drill Table Saw Clothes Iron (if using edge veneer) Razor knife or Router (If using veneer)
Kreg jig for pocket hole screw joinery. Remember to buy Kreg screws, regular wood screws with the tapered heads will split the pocket hole.
>TBH I acutally don't use any of the other stuff that came with the master system other than the face clamp, and even that is not terribly useful.
I could see not using the other stuff other than the faceclamp, but the face clamp would seemingly be almost indispensible if I were to go with the R3 kit. Isn't the circle on the back for clamping to the wood with a face clamp?
As far as the Kreg jig is concerned, don't get the basic version. It works fine (I got that one first), but in order to drill the holes in the right place you need to set the jig far enough back for the thickness of the material you're working with, and that's difficult for the basic version. I upgraded to the Junior and just use a regular clamp (although the clamp they use would probably work better). You'd be happy with any of the systems, it's just a matter of your preference and how much money you're willing to spend.
I will give this bit of advice when using the Kreg jig, and that is when you get to screwing your pieces of wood together, clamp them together tightly and make sure you clamp them down together tightly right at the joint, or else when you drive in the screw one of the pieces will lift up, ruining the joint.
Kreg Pocket Jig is a little guide that lets you drill and secure a board to another board using pocket screws. This means that if you have two sides of an arcade cabinet, in your awesome arcade shape, you'll be able to affix boards to the inside face of the sides easily. So basically you'll be able to easily and sturdily connect your two sides together, making your frame.
Text will not do the job here, you should look up Kreg Jig on youtube and watch it in action, it will be worth a thousand words.
My assumption is you're going to make shaped sides from plywood (with a jigsaw or similar), then connect them with trusses, using pocket screws, then cover the trusses with plywood. That will give you your cabinet, though the screen and electronics mounting won't be trivial, and I (unfortunately!) can't help you with the electronics.
Yeah I got mine from Amazon, NZ$60 including shipping
https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W
Yeah, they really come in handy much more often than you would think. I just have the low end kreg and it works great: http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W
Yeah we used this jig, along with the clamp that's in the frequently bought together section.
I would just build it like your kitchen table. Basically a frame between the 4 legs. Then screw it togeher with pocket screws up into the slab all the way around. You can get a basic Kregg pocket screw set for $50 or less. Lots of the home stores will have these on sale now that the holiday is coming up.
This will be the strong method. You could also build another shelf half way up the legs which will provide more support from the bench racking back and form. You can also screw the bench into the wall from underneath to keep it from moving.
Check out these
Basic construction
https://images.app.goo.gl/9PZUSDUwHamRKC2L
Kreg R3 Jr. Pocket Hole Jig System (Jig System) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J43A7W/
Mounting
https://www.rockler.com/surface-mount-corner-brackets-for-table-aprons
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this would go perfectly with a pocket hole jig if you’re making things like cabinetry or bed frames
i have this Kreg pocket hole jig that is ideal for shelves
https://smile.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W
it is a great investment!
It's extremely simple. I cut the sides to be 3/4" longer than the 12u rails I picked up from Amazon. This allowed space to attach the top. The three pieces of wood are held together only by pocket hole screws. The pocket holes were made with a Kreg pocket hole jig (the specific one I used doesn't seem to be available anymore, as I purchased it ~5 years ago). For the cost of what the 'alternative sellers' are asking for the kit I purchased, you can get this one, which is basically the same kit. There are other brands that make pocket hole jigs, but Kreg is the one with which I have any experience. Beyond the pocket holes that were created, and the miter saw I used to cut the wood, a standard cordless or corded drill can be used to drive the fasteners (both for the rails, which I juse used 1/2" wood screws for, and the pocket hole screws) into the wood itself. ;)
Unfortunately no blueprints for this one, I more or less made up the design myself. I made a few mistakes along the way, but overall wasn't too difficult. Hardest part is just thinking of the design and dimensions you want, then going on Amazon (or any hardware supply place) and ordering the pipe and fittings in correct lengths to match your wants. The tabletop is just 4 8x2's cut to 75", pocket holes every 6" on the bottom using [Kregg R3 Jig(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J43A7W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1)and then glued and clamped overnight. Sanded a lot and then lightly stained with Varathane 304559 Carbon Gray stain.
Hey man, looks way better than anything I could build at 15. But since you're asking for some constructive criticism, I'll give a few suggestions.
The one thing I really don't like is the screws on the bottom legs. There are lots of different ways to do this, with varying levels of difficulty.
First would be just counter sinking the screw then filling the hole with wooden buttons. You can pick up a usable set of counter sink bits at harbor freight for $7
Second might be pocket holes. You can get a jig for ~40 bucks. Honestly, this might not be the best option for you. For the price, you could get a lot of other more useful tools.
Third might be a mortise and tenon joint. You can make these by hand with a decent hand saw and some chisels, and square. But it its very hard to do without a vise, which is pricey. Also takes a bit more effort and skill. You can also make them with power tools.
You could have made the cutouts for the seat slats a little cleaner. If you get a combo square and chisels. You don't need fancy chisels. These are decent starter chisels if you learn how to sharpen.
Wow! Thanks for an awesome reply. Unfortunately I'm not in a position where I can spend much money so I'll have to see if I can find some flea markets near me to buy some stuff at. All this stuff is great info that I need to look at better when I have time where I don't need to be asleep. But while I'm here I want to ask you one thing: What do you think of the Kreg jig? I'm using it to hold on the back of some floating nightstands and also used it heavily on my desk, although on my desk they aren't really load bearing whereas on the nightstands all the weight is going through that backplate first.
Thanks again for the awesome reply :)
I strongly suggest looking into the Pocket Screw jig systems. There are many jigs available from makers like Kraig (expensive) to Harbor Freight. (cheap but functional if you are careful) Amazing for both carcass and face frames. Lost of videos on the Tube about this. Built custom oak cabinets in a professional shop for several years and we used a Kraig Jig. The sweet thing is that once you glue up and screw down the joint, you can take the clamps off and use them on the next setup. (Links for example only - NOT affiliate) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jvzaGtMsQyY https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482774269&sr=8-3&keywords=pocket+hole+jig+kreg
For about the same you can get the Kreg R3 Jr. It's pretty versatile. I was going to get a K4 but went with this one and love it. It's easier to attach to larger pieces of wood too.
I used this system - http://smile.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W/ref=lp_552488_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1422105125&sr=1-2. I really liked it as it also allows you to set your depth and distance and just go - all of my pocket holes were made in one sitting. I used it with an Irwin 6" Clamp (http://smile.amazon.com/IRWIN-Tools-QUICK-GRIP-6-inch-546ZR/dp/B00002244S/ref=pd_sim_hi_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0BGS8N79X833JZTM4W81)
Take your pick: Home Depot Lowes Amazon
Another pocket hole jig, I've prob done 100's of holes with it: Kreg R3 Jr. Pocket Hole Jig System
Not sure if using only plywood will make it sturdy enough, but the best way to join plywood would be using a Kreg Jig.
That little thing used with a Kreg Clamp is awesome for joining wood from 3/8 up to 2in.
Kreg Jig if you're building furniture.
I strongly recommend picking up a kreg jig, it has paid for itself many times over in less than a year that I've had it.
Looks great! Another good idea for the corners is a Kreg jig.