If there is clearance on the bottom for the plates this is a good option. Otherwise, if you have a drill you could get a small Kreg jig for doing pocket holes and use that for the but joints.

amazon link

I am in USA, so different stuff, but very expensive.

I built frame work using what we call 1x3 (1= about 20mm) clear pine lumber. The connecting points were done with pocket screws and glue. Then there are a variety of thin stuff to fill the sides, such as 1/8 ply, perforated aluminum where ventilation is needed, and some solid aluminum where strength is needed. To mount my electrical stuff, I found some old street signs.

These don't seem to be in your area of the world.

https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-MKJKIT-Mini-Jig-Kit/dp/B00065WPP2

The absolute easiest way to recreate to pocket holes the (4holes with screws at an angles) is with pocket hole jig you can get a cheap one HERE

The rest is just cutting a matching piece and drill straight holes for those bolts

Jesus, that was a chore to read.

Pocket holes don't replace traditional joints in most cases, but they come in handy in certain situations. If you're looking for a budget pocket hole jig, you might want to try this one.

Yes! A few options...

1) Grab the mini kreg jig: here

2) Countersink and drive screws into the rungs from the outside of the main boards. Be sure to use wood glue before screwing. It will also be hard to keep the rungs in place doing it this way, so just take your time.

3) The last option would be to only use wood glue and clamps (or heavy items such as paint buckets). Glue the first board to the rungs, let it dry completely, then flip it over and glue/clamp the second board to the rungs. Just make sure you don't overload the thing because it won't have any hardware or advanced joinery holding it together!

Hope that helps!

I don't think you need much more out of a pocket hole jig than that. Unless you're a production shop that is making a ton of cabinet face frames, I think a pocket hole jig should be unintrusive, flexible, and convenient.

Actually, I think this one is better because you get much more flexibility in how you can use it. It's easier to make holes at weird angles to the edge, and to fit into tight spaces.

I would highly recommend a Kreg Jig. This little thing is super useful for making quality furniture. If you dont want to get that I would recommend clamps. You always need clamps.

You could always buy a Jig. Something like this

Edit: To be clear, I'm not recommending this specific Jig, just pointing out that such a tool exists

Kreg makes both "mini" and "junior" jigs that are inexpensive and absolutely fantastic.

Also you can get square hole rails to make it more like a "proper" server rack.

I’m sorry your MS has been flaring up:( what are you crocheting right now?

My wife wants a planter box to plant some herbs and vegetables this year. I don’t want to pay for a planter box as they are all pretty pricey, so I decided to make my own! However, I need to get a pocket-hole jig to help me screw everything together! I’ve needed one for a while but I’ve always been able to get away without needing it....I’m afraid those times are over!

Wishlist

Deal link: Amazon (additional 15% off coupon on app)

Want additional discounts and coupon codes?

Download newly launched Android App - ShoppingSaga

Category-wise subreddits for Amazon Deals:

Discord Server: Instant deal notifications on our Discord Server!

Amazon Canada Deals: /r/OnlineDealsCanada

Disclaimer: The deal links are affiliated. We may earn a small share on qualifying purchases. It does not affect the deal price in any way.

Deal link: Amazon

^^Note: ^^Get ^^instantly ^^notified ^^on ^^Telegram ^^when ^^there ^^is ^^a ^^new ^^deal ^^in ^^"Home ^^Improvement ^^and ^^Decor" ^^category. ^^Join ^^our ^(Telegram channel)

“Dammit Bobby! You can't just screw em in like some fly-by-night carpenter.“

I haven't used either of the larger systems- but, the simple mini system is the greatest small tool I have ever bought!
Kreg Mini

I used just it and a quick clamp to build a fairly large cabinet and had no problems at all.
My guess would be that the more expensive units will probably save you a little time when it comes to joining different thicknesses of wood. The small jig is basically made for joining 3/4" thick wood but with a little extra measuring can join 1/2" and 1" (check the directions). If you are just buying this for a specific project I would recommend saving yourself 80+ dollars and just get the cheapest set and then buy yourself a quick clamp like these Quick Clamp.
Cheers, hope this is helpful

This will work as well if you have your own clamps. Only 20 bucks and they'll have it at any decent hardware store.

The walls are 3/4" thick and I used a mini kreg jig kit, which came with instructions on how to set the drill bit depending on the width of the wood.

Pocket hole with glue & screw. Use a ratcheting strap to clamp the pieces together.

Here's my two cents:

Base Design That design of table leaf is fairly ambitious for someone without a fair amount of experience and a decent shop (joiner, thickness planer, table saw at least), especially if you want to try a solid wood top (more on that in a sec). This style might be a bit easier to accomplish. I built one when I was learning, and it was manageable. You can probably find plans on line. If you still want to stick with the original, there are less expensive extension slides (Here are some).

The Apron

You're design is fine, but I wouldn't rely on a bracket alone to attach them. Mortise and tenon would be the classic way, but can be harder to do. Pocket holes would be an easy way to do it and would work fine. Jigs aren't too expensive. 2" thick stock is definitely overkill. 3/4" would do fine.

The Legs

2x2 legs would carry the weight fine and would be stable enough. If you want 4x4 for the looks, it might be easier to glue 4 3/4" boards together to form a hollow column.

Top Material

Solid stock for the table top is ambitious. Plywood would be a much more manageable solution. You'll want to find a supplier that has "plain cut veneer" ply (This is a good resource, you probably can get your ply and your stock at the same place). The veneer is cut in the same way as a board is normally cut from the log and glued onto the ply to look like boards joined together, so no cutting and reglueing needed. Don't go to Home Depot. You would apply an edge banding to cover up the plywood edges. You can cut that out of stock and glue it on, or you can get banding with heat activated glue on it and basically iron it on. 2" thick for the top is overkill here too. It's expensive, heavy, and a bit of a waste. If you want it for the looks, you can glue a 2" lip around the edge of the table (use this as your edge banding). As far as what kind of wood, oak or ash would be fine. There are many other out there, and it really is about the looks and cost. The vast majority of them will perform fine in this application.

Just a note: You're dad was talking about 'nominal thickness', and he's right. In the world of wood a 2x4 isn't really 2"x 4". The basic thickness would be 3/4" finished thickness for a board. This is called 4/4 (four quarter) at a hardwood lumber yard. What you're calling 2" stock would be 8/4 (eight quarter), and end up with a finished thickness of 1 3/4". It can all be a bit confusing at first, but you'll get it.

Few things to consider....

• Your choice of top may not be best. For that length it will start to sag. I would suggest going for a good quality G1S 3/4" plywood. For desks I've built in the past I actually bought a full sheet, ripped it lengthwise and then laminated the two pieces together with screws and glue. This results in a really freakin solid 1.5" thick top.

• As mentioned below, some skirting attached to the bottom will also prevent the desk from sagging and make it more rigid. If you go a full sheet a plywood you can cut 2x 24x96" strips for the top then cut a few 3" strips for your skirting. All cuts can be done for you at the home centre. Find yourself a kreg jig and some pocket hole screws. You then use the jig to cut holes in your skirting pieces and will fasten them to the underside on at least 3 sides of the desk. Use some glue too and this will be crazy rigid.

• What are you using for legs? Depending on the look you're going for you might want to consider using black metal pipe for legs. You can buy flanges like this and buy the lengths of pipe all pre-threaded and cut.

• As mentioned, whatever you're using for legs, the point at which they attach to the desk is critical and it will be the weak point in the structure. You're going to want to screw whatever brackets/flanges you use in from the bottom. The problem is that 3/4" is not very much wood to be screwing in to. Beefing up the corners is definitely a good idea.