You can use a plug like this that reports the kWh used (not recommending this one in particular, just something like this): https://www.amazon.com/Electricity-Monitor-Voltage-Overload-Protection/dp/B07DPJ3RGB/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=power+meter&qid=1627764334&sr=8-3
Just be careful that whatever one you choose can handle the current required
When was your mother’s house built, is it appreciably older?
It may be worth it to buy some sort of power monitor like this:
> Kuman KW47-US Electricity Usage Monitor Plug Power Watt Voltage Amps Meter with Digital LCD, Overload Protection and 7 Display Modes for Energy Saving (NO-Backlight), white
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPJ3RGB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YTKYF7NZ070W30XDY5AQ
And see if you have dirty power or not. This may be venturing into “hire an electrician” territory.
ryzen 3 3100, 1660 super, 450W PSU here.
idling on desktop: 60-70W
watching youtube, microsoft office, light gaming: 70-110W
cyberpunk 2077 1080p low-mid settings: 220-230W
22" 1080p 60hz monitor 15-20W
i'm just using wattage meter / watt meter / electricity monitor
What country is this? If this is the US, then as long as the place is less than 60 years old or so you'll have breakers that will trip when there is too much current draw. If you don't feel safe, then I'd buy one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Electricity-Monitor-Voltage-Overload-Protection/dp/B07DPJ3RGB
It monitors your power usage in real-time so you can see the amperage drawn through the outlet. You can experiment and see for yourself what various loads draw.
As a CG artist who works from home, I do indeed factor in electrical costs with my contracts, andthese little badboys work wonders for keeping track of your electrical usage.
I bought a shitty one for under $20 you'll obviously have to find the euro plug equivalent but just buy the cheapest one for a full day and show the result
Buy yourself a power meter and see how much power you are actually drawing.
How many streams are you running, do you allow remote access, are you transcoding?
If you are just running locally and direct playing you really don't need anything to powerful. I ran a old HP enterprise grade PC with an i5-3470 and it ran no issued and only ran at 20 Watts.
Do some calculations on whether a 5 Watt or so savings is worth the extra coin.
You sure of the running watts for the fridge? That seems like way too much. I measured (buy a KillAWatt knockoff) 150 watts running with compressor on and a maximum of 850 watts for a minute when the defrost elements came on. Its a pretty typical USA 2016 vintage 27 ft3 fridge.
Suggest buying a Watt meter and checking your actual applicances. Starting watts can be higher and harder to measure. This meter is pretty decent for $13 I have several and use it to monitor loads when using my generator. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPJ3RGB.
Just a data point, our smaller 1600 running / 2000 watts inverter type generator ran two standard fridges with no trouble.
Added - if you start to find a whole house size generator is out of your budget, the 2000 watt inverters (Wen 56225i 2250 watts for $385) along with a bunch of proper extension cords paired with a watt meter make a really usefull power outage kit for less than $500. You can run a fridge, couple of fans, Led lights all day long. Runs a small 6000 BTU window AC unit by itself no problem too. A whole lot of power outage preparedness for $500. Very happy I did it a few years ago.
You sure of the running watts for the fridge? That seems like way too much. I measured (buy a KillAWatt knockoff) 150 watts running with compressor on and a maximum of 850 watts for a minute when the defrost elements came on. Its a pretty typical USA 2016 vintage 27 ft3 fridge.
Suggest buying a Watt meter and checking your actual applicances. Starting watts can be higher and harder to measure. This meter is pretty decent for $13 I have several and use it to monitor loads when using my generator. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPJ3RGB.
Just a data point, our smaller 1600 running / 2000 watts inverter type generator ran two standard fridges with no trouble.
You can buy WiFi power meters that keep track of whatever appliance is plugged into them --- maybe try plugging your AC into one and track how much energy it's using in a week and then see if that jives with your power bill? It won't tell you where every penny is going, but it would be a good start.
Use this one: kuman KW47-US Electricity Usage Monitor Plug Power Watt Voltage Amps Meter with Digital LCD, Overload Protection and 7 Display Modes for Energy Saving (NO-Backlight), white https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPJ3RGB/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_D131HK7243QW3PPSHVH1
Unlike a kill a watt it has a battery (recharges when plugged in) so it keeps an always increasing count of kWh used.
you can get a watt-meter to check, for example: kuman KW47-US Electricity Usage Monitor Plug Power Watt Voltage Amps Meter with Digital LCD, Overload Protection and 7 Display Modes for Energy Saving (NO-Backlight), white https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPJ3RGB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6Y038E78EZDH19PDMEC1
This will also track the usage of your air conditioner overtime, so you can see exactly what portion of your electric usage it is
Something like this good for measuring? And can I measure everything on a power strip at once, or do I have to do it item by item? kuman KW47-US Electricity Usage Monitor Plug Power Watt Voltage Amps Meter with Digital LCD, Overload Protection and 7 Display Modes for Energy Saving (NO-Backlight), white https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07DPJ3RGB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_06EBBQPD8JYDWEZTHSMJ
You could get something like this just check the amp rating
If you are using a heat pump with aux heat you will have an unusually high electric bill in extremely cold months. For example for me Nov. 1565 KW, Dec. 2636, Jan. 4499KW (when it got really cold). So if you used 5167 it sounds like you do have some other issues going on. To at least narrow out a few things you could purchase something like this. Easy to use, accurate, but does take a little time to collect accurate data. https://www.amazon.com/Electricity-Monitor-Voltage-Overload-Protection/dp/B07DPJ3RGB
Something that plugs into the wall-outlet is your best option here.
I purchased this. It accurately measures how much power the car charger is using over the month, instead of just the raw KW the car has put into it's battery, since there are some efficiency losses. I found myself that I average about 400KW a month. (I fully empty the battery at least 5 if not 6 days a week!)
I've had my meter running every day for over a half year with no issues at all. no heat issues, no concerning discoloration of the watt-meter from the steady 12a lvl1 charging rate.. it's been reliable in both hot and cold. I reset it once a month when I pay my fair share of the extra utility bill (it's typically around $50 a month @ $0.12 per Kw.)
There really isn't anything for the Volt to check via the vehicle itself how much power is used. and because of some of the power losses in the power brick and inverter in the car it will use a few more KW every month than the raw number the car itself will have put into the battery pack.
The only alternative to this is whenever you go to charge the car, check the dash economy app for the amount of KW used since last charge, and keep a running tally of that number... a Kill-a-watt is just Much easier!
Your basic electric usage monitor will do that, and there are ones with batteries that record history. I got a basic level "Kill A Watt P3" for under $20 and it doesn't need a device plugged into it to show the line's voltage. Mine tracks voltage history, it just won't remember it if the power goes out or it gets unplugged.
There isn't a difference between the device's voltage and the wall's voltage. Plugging in a device connects it to the power grid and it's voltage will be whatever the wall's voltage is. Think of voltage as sort of "electrical pressure". Like water pressure in a pipe system. It will only change if you run it through a device that changes it, like transformers.
Amperage is how much power the device is drawing. There will be 0 amps going through an outlet that has nothing plugged into it. Again, to use the water analogy, it's like the flow rate of the water. The amps won't mean much to the power company anyway. Voltage is what you will want to track, if it goes high or low it causes the devices to draw the wrong amount of amps.
I wouldnt mine on it, its wear and tear for no profit.
You should buy a wattage meter and get some true power consumption readings, you can determine for yourself if its worth running a rig or not.
There is software (HW monitor, MSI afterburner's overlay, hardware info 64) that tells you your CPU and GPU power consumption. That's 90% of your power consumption right there. That does not include the power used by your motherboard, SSD, etc.
But for fully accurate readings on how much your PC is willing from the wall, you need to get some sort of power usage meter:
Nice thx for the reply hopefully all the debby downers who replied to me saying its not worth it see this. I purchased my laptop from cyberpower ive been wanted to repaste it to see if i get better temps while gaming but im scared tbh. Also idk where i would get fan replacements i would have to call them. But i bought this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPJ3RGB/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_Z8NNDWKETYEJCE4SZGBK to make sure exactly how much electricity im using.
Get one of these. Well worth the ~$20 to find out exactly how much power any given appliance actually uses.
I only ask as the stress seems to be coming from his absent mindedness.. A few cold facts of life may be more impactful than busting his computer. Also you'd be better off pawning it than breaking it.. then he has to pay to get it back! Or he keeps it and pays for the power used https://www.amazon.com/Electricity-Monitor-Voltage-Overload-Protection/dp/B07DPJ3RGB/
kuman KW47-US Electricity Usage Monitor Plug Power Watt Voltage Amps Meter with Digital LCD, Overload Protection and 7 Display Modes for Energy Saving (NO-Backlight), white https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPJ3RGB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_79YAHZ28V1X8E66A6JVR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You can if you export all your deposits and get the date you og started but its is way easier to just buy a meter because either way you have to fine out the exact wattage or amps it's using (wattage is easier) to get an accurate answer(NH only tracks your gpu power draw not the rest of the system) wich you need a multi meter or if you just get a outlet meter it does it for you some even couclate cost for you. This is the one use vhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPJ3RGB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_FC8SHFWZAY5RFQG93AA3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 but it's for 110v it not that hard to do the math if you need. Google is a helper lol
If your fiance needs visual proof of how much your rig is costing you per month just get one of these:
You can program your electricity rate and it will show the wattage your drawing and how much it's costing you in realtime. Then reset the next month. This is what I use to track how much electricity my rigs are costing me.
Ah yes, I was going to say to remember to account for all the other hardware. But absentmindedly I forgot.
I would recommend getting a energy usage meter, that you plug in between the wall socket and the rig/computer.
Something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Electricity-Monitor-Voltage-Overload-Protection/dp/B07DPJ3RGB/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=power+meter&qid=1617123436&sr=8-5
Hi sorry here is the link for the watt meter
kuman KW47-US Electricity Usage Monitor Plug Power Watt Voltage Amps Meter with Digital LCD, Overload Protection and 7 Display Modes for Energy Saving (NO-Backlight), white https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPJ3RGB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DM6GVM53VY3V0127WNTV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The ThinkPad would work great as home server.
I'm running my instance of nextcloud on a VPS on the cloud, but I'm running my home NAS (I'm using open media vault) on a ThinkPad x230 and it's great. I also run some virtual machines on it sometimes and jellyfin for media server. No issues.
I considered getting a Pi or equivalent, but I already had this at home, so I decided to go with it.
The main reason why I considered the Pi was for its low power consumption, but the x230 doesn't do bad either.
It no longer has a screen, it's just the bottom so I added a kernel option to completely disable LVDS and save a bit more on the power consumption. When idle (which is most of the time) it consumes less than 10W, which isn't bad at all.
Pi doesn't have a SATA port, you'd need a SATA hat to connect some disks to it (USB isn't reliable enough for a server).
If I'm not mistaken the T420 has two internal SATA ports right? So you could even add two 2.5 disks to it and set up a RAID for example. I think it also has an mSATA port (or is that only for the X230 and T430?).
With external power and some special cables you could even attach some big 3.5" HDDs to it (that's what I'm doing on mine).
If the your battery is still good it will work as its own internal UPS in case of power failure (you can use tlp on Linux to limit its charging to 50-80% maximum charge to extend the battery life.
Pi wins on the lower power and smaller form factor, but since you already have a spare T420 I'd at least give it a try.
You can use a power meter on the wall socket to measure how much power it's consuming. If you don't have one, you can easily buy one online or at an electronics store for about 15-20 bucks. Here's an example of one so you know what I'm talking about.
There's no way without using a power meter like a Kill-A-Watt or a cheap knock-off. Computers are already very good at using less power when it's not needed so you probably wouldn't see much difference.
I assume the amp specs are at max power. At less than max it should use less power because the lower volume is doing less work (moving the speaker cone less) but I can't speculate how much less. You could get an inline wattmeter and determine that yourself.
I don't think it went up that much. Get you a watt monitor and plug your Bobcat in and see.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPJ3RGB/ref=cm_sw_r_sm_apa_glt_fabc_R9H6PSQ3EB9T6BSE70HB
you need to measure it at the wall with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Electricity-Monitor-Voltage-Overload-Protection/dp/B07DPJ3RGB/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=watt+meter&qid=1625163271&sr=8-5
This support guy is misinformed. He's confusing the by-design feature with the bug. The first is where the laptop can go over 130 watts in certain cases (and maybe for a limited time). The second is where the laptop is unable to receive more than about 105 watts of power from the A/C adapter.
The first step for you is to get detailed measurements: when running your game, what is the rate of charge? Worst case scenario for me was about 1% of drain every 1:40. If you're seeing a drain from 100% to 20% in 5 hours, that's about 1% of drain every 3:45. We don't know yet what the expected drain is from a system that's fully powered.
The next step is to ask to escalate the issue to this guy's manager, or try again with a different support agent.
The final step, if none of this works, is to buy something like this on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DPJ3RGB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Measure the power draw while gaming. If your device can't pull over about 105 watts, you can use that data to prove to support that your machine has a problem.
Buy one of these and you'll for sure.
You can get a knockoff kill-a-watt pretty cheap. I think this is the one I have. It has worked well for me for DIY LED light testing.
I get it. If it gets the job done then, sure it's fine.
Yeah the TS1000 (and higher), while not anything extraordinary, are definitely a big jump up in output per watt because they have a driver and go from 60-70% power efficiency up to 90+.
The TS600 other similar varieties of low efficiency driverless lights like
this "D" version of spider farmer lights usually have that same extra circuitry on the face of the board in constrast with the ones with drivers that have only LED diodes on it.
I have two SP series lights that I am a fan of.
With this.
Using a watt meter will help with precise measurements of energy use.
If you're actually curious about the full power draw over time, the tool is cheaper than you'd think.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DPJ3RGB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
But I do use my UPS for "live" power draw.
So your 845cca battery specification shows that it is 122 amp-hours of capacity. This is about 1500 watt-hours at 12 volts - https://learnmetrics.com/amp-hours-to-watt-hours/
So 1500 watt-hours divided by 300 watts is 5 hours. It can supply 300 watts for 5 hours ideally.
Use this $13 watt meter to measure your actual watt load and you can size everything very accurately.
kuman KW47-US Electricity Usage... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPJ3RGB
I see in the description that the M2 hub requires a 5VDC 1amp micro-USB power supply, which would provide a maximum of 5 watts, but I seriously doubt that it uses that much.
The only way to know for sure it to plug the power supply into a power monitor (like below), or a power-monitoring smart plug.
https://www.amazon.com/Electricity-Monitor-Voltage-Overload-Protection/dp/B07DPJ3RGB
Just buy something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Electricity-Monitor-Voltage-Overload-Protection/dp/B07DPJ3RGB/
Or some smart plug with energy monitoring if you don't want to constantly crawl under your desk.
Power meter to get power consumption and cost information.
Download Open Hardware Monitor. Alternatively, purchase a power meter. Run your mining program and determine how many watts of power your computer draws. Then, determine how many watts your computer draws when idling (which presumably is what you have it doing when you're not using it). Measure the difference. This is the watts that your program is drawing.
Multiply this number by 730 (the number of hours in a month). That will give you watt-hours of power per month. Convert this to kilowatt-hours by dividing the entire thing by 1,000.
Find your power bill and see what you pay per kilowatt-hour for electricity. Multiply this by the kilowatt-hours that you calculated in the last step.
I can't answer with a number but should be fairly low. It's not like a treadmill using a powerful motor to drive a belt carrying your weight. Resistance is magnetic and console should be very low power. Is this something you need to know before purchasing? If so there are devices you can plug between the bike and the outlet which will tell you everything you need about the power draw. Perhaps getting one of those would get you a precise answer. link to amazon
Easiest is to use a power meter at your outlet. https://www.amazon.com/Electricity-Monitor-Voltage-Overload-Protection/dp/B07DPJ3RGB/
Simply plug your PC cord in that and see how many watts it pulls from the wall :)
Second, as was already pointed out, the HD7660D is integrated in your CPU, so it has no separate power rating. https://www.notebookcheck.net/AMD-Radeon-HD-7660D.90028.0.html
you can also get one of these and test out which appliance is using up more electricity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPJ3RGB/
Hmmmm... If the bill isn't an error, maybe something wrong with one of the ballasts?
Check them:
These are great an easy to use.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPJ3RGB?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2\_dt\_b\_product\_details
>wattage reader
This one works very good. https://www.amazon.com/Electricity-Monitor-Voltage-Overload-Protection/dp/B07DPJ3RGB
Kuman KW47 - $19 USD.
I love it. I am at currently 61 days and 1203 kwH. So I used in 2 months $96.24 USD in power.
You can get a kill-a-watt, something like this https://www.amazon.com/Electricity-Monitor-Voltage-Overload-Protection/dp/B07DPJ3RGB/
These are cheap and we use them to take cost of electricity into account and subtract from earnings. kuman KW47-US Electricity Usage... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPJ3RGB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
you might have to just get a meter to see
https://www.amazon.com/Electricity-Monitor-Voltage-Overload-Protection/dp/B07DPJ3RGB
You can get plug in meters that will tell you exactly how much a device is using and how much it has used over a day or month. https://www.amazon.com/Electricity-Monitor-Voltage-Overload-Protection/dp/B07DPJ3RGB
this is the one I got. Has no issues with 12v all month long.
Nah, they mean something like this.
I didn't fully trust how much power NiceHash said I was using for GPU mining. And afaik NiceHash doesn't give you ANY power usage for CPU mining. On top of that, just today I found out that Octopus has a 2% dev fee. So I wanted to set up a spreadsheet to see what my actual profits are (and also to see if CPU mining is *actually* profitable).
Happy to see that CPU mining is indeed profitable after electricity (see the bottom entry). Also, at least right now Octopus seems to be my best algorithm to use even with the 2% fee(top entry).
And yes, I know all Miners/Algorithms don't have the exact same power needs... I was just feeling lazy and didn't want to check the power for each one.
FYI, I used this electricity usage monitor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DPJ3RGB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is a case where one of the cheap power use meters would give you the information you need.
https://www.amazon.com/Electricity-Monitor-Voltage-Overload-Protection/dp/B07DPJ3RGB
You could try something like this to measure power consumption:
not sure what you mean by "this" CP Plus NVR, and i don't have familiarity with their products, but you can get a 8 channel NVR from amcrest for under $100, without the hard drive. to give you a reference for whether their price is good or not.
can't speak about the NVR you're asking, since you haven't provided a model number to look anything up about it :)
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>My PC is an i5 intel with 8GB RAM and 500GB hard disk. It's an old PC, but hardly used. Can anyone comment on it's stability if it's going to run 24x7
as long as the fans aren't caked in dust, i wouldn't expect any issues with stability.
if you're concerned about power use, it might be worth it to buy a watt meter, it will count how many watts your thing is using, so you can know. most computers barely use power when they're not being actively used.
for example, https://www.amazon.com/Electricity-Monitor-Voltage-Overload-Protection/dp/B07DPJ3RGB/
Measured at the wall with one like these
You can buy watt meters to get an idea of how much power you are drawing.