Reddit's favorite alternatives to Leviton DH15S-1BZ 15A Decora Smart Switch for iOS and Leviton DD0SR-DLZ Dual Voltage 120/277VAC Decora Digital/Decora Smart Matching Switch Remote

I was going to make one so I could remotely reboot my router if my network went down.

Then I realized that I am not a clever man.

EDIT: While I appreciate your suggestions, I already solved my problem.

If it’s anything like the whole house fan my parents had, you’d just need to replace that controller with a smart switch. You’d lose the ability to adjust the speed though.

Can't speak to best. But as a broke home automation enthusiast, I can attest that getting SWITCHES instead of lights is way cheaper, especially in the long run.

Bulb burned out? No problem. Stick dollar store bulbs in em. I got 6 lights on my main floor which work on 2 switches.

Currently using WeMo switches. Sometimes they go on sale for under $30.

https://www.amazon.ca/Light-Switch-Enabled-Compatible-Amazon/dp/B00DGEGJ02/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1543337807&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=wemo+switches&psc=1

The GE Z-Wave Plus switches, dimmers and fan switches are fantastic. I have over 40 of them in my house and they are the most reliable smart devices that I own.

Here they are on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R

Also, you'll need a SmartThings hub to control it all: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL

$14.99 on amazon You can look at youtube tutorials for installing smart switches. It's not hard. Same for smart outlets or outlets with extra USB ports.

I set up my under cabinet lighting this way with:

• GE Z-wave wall switch
• Xiaomi motion sensor

The wall switch controls all of the under cabinet lighting, and the motion sensor is wired up in a lighting automation routine. You can use pretty much any z-wave or zigbee wall switch (or dimmer if your lighting load supports it) in this scenario. Any ST-compatible motion sensor will work as well.

Withe the walls open, why not just hardwire the lighting now, and leave all the outlets unswitched? If you're using LED strip lighting, you can install a proper IC rated driver and install behind the drywall to keep it out of sight.

As u/coogie mentioned you're hitting the lower limit.

But also a couple other things that can make a difference and help.

1. Actually determine the 'hot' wire when connecting w/a voltage detector. This can make a difference. Nothing fancy. This would do the trick just fine. Having wires switched w/Caseta can cause issues.
2. If using LED lights, using the Lutron capacitorwill also help. If in doubt, just give their support a call (they're AMAZING!!--seriously) and they'll help you get the one you need--you will need to pay for it, however. Usually less than $10 all in.
3. If it's a fixture that has, say, 5 or 6 bulbs and you're using LED bulbs and visually won't make much different between LED and incandescent, replace one LED with an incandescent and you can cheat your load on the system.

Good luck!

+1 for smart switch. I have a Kasa smart switch for the outdoor security lights on my garage and have them set on a schedule to turn on at sunset and turn off at sunrise, it works flawlessly. I installed it, set the schedule and haven't touched it since.

The Wemo Switch can be wired to directly control the relay/contactor which should be more than enough.

You would just need to grab an enclosure and whatever plugs/outlets and a few bits of spare wire.

There are cheaper WiFi switches but I personally like the Wemo switches, you can set rules (like Auto-Off) or schedules and it works with IFTT for more advance stuff.

WeMo Light Switch, Wi-Fi enabled, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DGEGJ02/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8JkBybZJS8X0H

Packard C230B 2 Pole 30 Amp Contactor, 120 Voltage Coil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KGSJ74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1IkBybGQNQV6G

Not op but maybe something like this?

TP-Link Smart Wi-Fi Light Switch, No Hub Required, Single Pole, Control Your Fixtures From Anywhere, Works with Amazon Alexa (HS200) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WWSHyb1RHJ7SE

I bought these from amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Comes with remote, and I have the "boxes" attached to them, and the headset too. Just hit the buttons, and on, or off, they go. Have been using them since April with absolutely no problems whatsoever.

Searched for "zwave led dimmer" and this was the first one on the list, recommended by Amazon and works with Alexa.

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Dimmer Switch, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RDh2ybABD1MGM

The Devices that can be discovered by Alexa and controlled directly with Alexa are ones that usually connect to your wireless network so they can communicate with the Echo Dot directly over the network. (Such as the Wemo products). Others require a "Hub" in the sense that they don't communicate via wireless ethernet and communicate via other means such as ZigBee (in the case of Phillips Hue). So, the hue bulbs communicate with the Phillips Hue Hub which is connected to your home network. The Echo Dot communicates with the Hue Hub when you tell Alexa to turn the lights on or off.

It is super misleading how Amazon does this. For example they put "Works with Amazon Alexa" in the title for the popular GE Z-Wave switch (Maybe GE puts this in the product title, I'm not sure). https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R

Well this is very misleading because this is a Z-Wave product. The Echo Dot does not have a Z-Wave radio built into it. If you look at the Alexa graphic on the page where it says "Amazon Certified": " Control this product with your voice through select Alexa devices."

More misleading information, because I wouldn't consider a wink hub or smartthings hub (both Z-Wave compatible devices) to be "Alexa Devices" however, these do support control via Alexa using their smart home skills. So there you go, that's how you would control the GE Switch using Alexa.

https://www.amazon.com/Clapper-Activated-Detection-Appliances-Technology/dp/B0000CGKLR

Yes it is. Get it on Amazon or Walmart or other places and you'll see recent reviews of it. People still use it.

Ah, gotcha. Yeah, I missed that bit, sorry. Yes, Bond provides a WiFi bridge to the RF.

I've replaced some wall switches with Kasa switches, which can also be hooked into Google and Homebridge/HomeKit:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/

I went on Amazon and bought a very cheap “smart outlet” that I can turn on and off with a button. I plugged the power chord for my reverb G2 into that and I just click it off until I’m ready to use it and click it on when I’m ready for VR. It keeps me from having to unplug/replug anything and has been an easy workaround for that annoying issue.

These are what I use

Limited-time deal: Kasa Smart HS200 Light Switch by TP-Link, Single Pole, Needs Neutral Wire, 2.4Ghz Wi-Fi Light Switch Works with Alexa and Google Assistant, UL Certified, 1-Pack, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_09CHTV6RBT8EK0N983F1

Does it have to be a dimmer? Because that is why you are limited to only 150W with the one you've linked, because it is a dimmer.

There are plenty of options, like Lutron Caseta, for just a smart switch, no dimming, where you aren't so limited on wattage. That one I linked is good for 6A, which is 720W at 120W. It just can't dim.

If you HAVE to have the dimmer, and HAVE to have those 41W lights, just Google "250w smart led dimmer" and you'll get plenty of results. But honestly, running 246W on a dimmer good for 250W is not a good idea in my opinion. The dimmer is going to be hot to the touch every time the lights are on because you're maxing it out, and I can almost assure you that it will eventually die on you from overheating.

I've had this for a few years: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AP92N2/

You program the date, time and latitude and longitude and it does everything. You can have it turn on before sundown and off at a certain time (for instance, midnight). It's also smart enough to keep track of daylight savings time. You can even have different schedules for different days of the week.

It has a built in supercapacitor that will only keep the current time for a few hours in the event of an outage, so you don't want to use it somewhere where it will lose power for long periods of time. It's only the clock though, it saves the rest of the programming.

I too am looking to do this (happy I found this).

I was having my gas fireplace serviced this morning and asked about it.

My wall switch for my fireplace has 2 switches. 1 switch is a low power switch to turn on the fireplace, while the 2nd is if I wanted to install a blower.

The guy said since it's a low power switch that want to control I would need to tap into the extra outlet (where there is already a constant flow of 110 amps) and use a Rib Enclosed Power Relay (about $20) to bring the constant power over to the outlet that i would like to control to light my fireplace.

This is the the RIB Enclosed Power Supply he recomended > https://www.johnstonesupply.com/storefront/product-view.ep?pID=L39-100

and I was looking at this outlet on Amazon (as I don't already have a Home Automation Hub in my Home and can't think of a reason to install one just for this).

TP-Link Smart Wi-Fi Light Switch, No Hub Required, Single Pole, Control Your Fixtures From Anywhere, Works with Amazon Alexa (HS200) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3K3N85T4MQW0J&coliid=IR8FUGM8EHTY&psc=1

Let us know how it works out.

What you want to accomplish is certainly possible, however, you have a 3-way switch, so you will have to replace both switches. GE makes a 3-way compatible z-wave dimmer switch that I've used in my house that I've been pretty happy with. You will need to install the z-wave dimmer on your load switch (where the hot line comes in) and an "add-on" switch on the other 3-way switch. The photo you posted appears to be of your non-load switch since there isn't a black line connected to the switch, but to be sure you should test the load portion of the switch with a multimeter.

Here's links to the GE switches I use: GE Z-Wave Dimmer Add-On Switch

Edit: Upon looking at the photo you posted again, I do see a black line, but I can't see how it's connected to the switch. It's possible this is your primary load switch, but again I'm would test with a multimeter to be sure.

Thanks for your feedback, it was incredibly helpful. So These are the switches I will get since the lights I got for my rooms are LED Dimmable. I'll get the smart things hub as well to interact between the switch and my echo, but what do I use to program all the details. For example how do I get alexa to recognize "bedroom 1" name when I talk to her and have her interact with it. Is there a software program I use to manage all these devices and name them, etc?

Also, my light switches do not have a ground since the house is older, so I'll have to have an electrician come out and figure out a way to install these switches

If the Edison type bulb wont dim, it's probably not dimmable.

Or else the load is too low, there is a minimum load for the Caseta, I believe its 25 watts.

You could also try installing a LUT-MLC load adapter... EDIT Sorry, just re-read you have no neutral in the box.

Amazon link to LUT-MLC

After doing some quick googling, I think you either need MORE load.. can you switch one (or some) of the LED out to halogen? or you need a neutral wire in your switch box... then you could you use a Caseta PRO or any Caseta with the LUT-MLC load adapter to make it work.

I've never used the light switches you mention, but if they are these ones, then they seem like they will work as you think. The second photo will provide some insight into how each switch goes into the electrical box behind the faceplate. The page says

> Wemo Light Switch seamlessly replaces your old wall light switch and works with any one-way connection light.

It sounds like you haven't changed a light switch before. As such I'll just remind you to please open the circuit breaker the switch is running through before disconnecting the switch from the circuit. No offense intended here, just trying to help you not electrocute yourself.

You could accomplish this with home automation. Replace the fan switch with this zwave switch and then add a Wink or Smartthings hub. Your phone would be the remote. You can also get an Amazon Echo for cheap and then control the fan with your voice.

Hue ecosystem uses the Zigbee protocol. The Hue app can only control lights out of the box. There is only 1 fan controller for HA that I'm aware of and that's the GE zwave fan controller which requires a z-wave hub similar to SmartThings which also integrates with Hue and it works pretty well.

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12730 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ

Hooray!

So, with a 3 gang box, you can put in anything. Wemo make a light switch and also a dimmer switch. Leviton has a few switches as well.

Keep in mind that you'll need a neutral line available for all of these switches. If you have the kind of switch where there's only a single wire and the switch sits in the middle to cut off power flow, you'll have a problem swapping in a smart switch.

What was I thinking. Sorry, I was hypoglycemic when I replied.

Here is a Z wave switch that should work well and connect directly with Abode:

GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 14291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_A.91zbQY1X4RQ

I dont know how expensive they are in india. But looks like $30-$50 price range in amazon us. https://www.amazon.com/Light-Switch-Wi-Fi-enabled-Amazon/dp/B00DGEGJ02/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1509089899&sr=8-5&keywords=wifi+switch

I'm still a noob in the research phase of setting up my system and haven't bought any of these or installed anything so I'm just going off of what I have read thus far. This is the switch though.

GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 14291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_juIwAbZ7GCV0T

If you want a wifi switch that works with both Alexa and smartthings, I'd recommend this: https://www.amazon.com/Light-Switch-Wi-Fi-enabled-Amazon/dp/B00DGEGJ02. Alexa can access it without a hub, and it works well with my smartthings system. All of the Wemo wi-fi devices work well with or without a hub.

Also I've installed a lot of these around my house: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035YRCR2

They work great with Smartthings (not sure about Wink). With Alexa tied into my smart home system, she is also able to control the lights when I give the proper voice commands.

So they will work great once you have a hub. Without a hub they will work as well as a dumb switch, with the added bonus of allowing your neighbors to add your lights to their smart home systems.

I have never heard of LC before this thread so I trotted over to Amazon to see what I could see. The 2nd non-sponsored result was Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Switch for All Bulb Types and <strong><em>Fans</em></strong>, PD-6ANS-WH, White, Works with Amazon Alexa. Is there really no fan control or am I misunderstanding?

This one (Belkin WEMO) is WiFi and works with Alexa.

This one (GE Z-Wave) is Z-Wave and works with Alexa.

> tplink wifi switched

I like this, so far this seems great, and it does state "single pole" for switch type in the Amazon descriptions so should work I think since I only have two wires

For some holidays, eBay runs 15-20%. This one was for fathers day. Even without the coupons, you can usually find deals on switches. For example,

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Switch-PD-6ANS-WH-R-control-lights-or-fans/123009856808 for 40.55 no tax https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-PD-6ANS-BL-Assistant/dp/B017LRCG38 for 54.95 + tax

Looking back at my history:

PD-6WCL-WH for 40-43, no tax vs 54.95 + tax at Amazon P-BDG-PKG2W-A that includes the hub plus two dimmers and pico remotes for 112, vs 159 + tax at Amazon

I’ve had good luck with just daylight led bulbs. Just amazon the daylight led t8 bulbs. You can also hook up a timer switch to mock daylight hours. Honeywell Home RPLS740B1008 Econoswitch 7-Day Programmable Light Switch Timer White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004AP92N2

I keep them 6-24 inches from the plants with a small fan to help them dry out between watering

The decora style is pretty common for smart switches actually if that's what you are thinking about. Have these and they work great but there are other options: https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/

Yes, sorry, I meant a wireless remote switch. Not nearly as elegant of a solution, but the pros and cons must be weighed. For example, I have BX wiring with fabric-jacketed copper wires, and the stuff is old and anytime you even look at the jacketing wrong, it falls off the wire (leaving exposed wires). I'm not sure I would attempt it on my own house, and I'm a pretty avid DIYer (I added a master bathroom to my house, including running all new electrical and plumbing). So in our living room there's a light on a ceiling fan we have to activate by pull switch, and another lamp in the corner that we either manually turn on and off, or use a wireless switch like this (we usually use this during Christmas time when we control other indoor Christmas lights with it).

Here’s a switch I like: Kasa Smart Light Switch HS200, Single Pole, Needs Neutral Wire, 2.4GHz Wi-Fi Light Switch Works with Alexa and Google Home, UL Certified, No Hub Required , White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_19QT0Z7T6YW6BJ6CDVNX

I don’t see the relevance of the switch though unless you just think I’m wrong about the amp rating (description for this switch says 15a).

When I search for 20a smart switches on Amazon I don’t get real results. Which makes me think 20a smart switches are not commonly used.

$30 on Amazon and it's called The Clapper so it knows its use case vs thousands for NODs which just evokes Ned Flanders.

Try putting one of these between the LED driver and lights.

I had some random strobing when I first installed my smart switches and it fixed the issue. For 3-way, you might need 2 of these to absorb the odd residual charge on both ends.

This was strobing after attempting to turn my lights off but I could see how this could work the other way around when turning the lights on.

Lutron LUT-MLC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9F084E/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_8E49G4W8KK5M97K2MB82?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Certainly looks like a kasa smart switch on first glance.

https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Required-Requires-Assistant-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?adgrpid=62658078953&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjwpImTBhCmARIsAKr58cxH-HxeLcnqsol6vqUJrKxafLdOyYLaj-ujwyWN800dOGd5c8GUJ6EaAigeEALw_wcB&amp;hvadid=310038679652&amp;hvd...

This is the one that I have.

I use it for my front door light so it turns on at night and turns off in the morning.

Kasa Smart Light Switch

You do have to download and create an account in the Kasa Home app to set it up but then it will integrate in to a google home. The rest of the people in my home did not need to sign in to Kasa to be able to control it from the Google Home app.

There are two things he could mean:

&#x200B;

1) If it is a switch with no neutral there is actually a "minimum" pull that the light needs to pull otherwise the light blinks and the switches constantly reboot and disconnect. If you buy the switch with a neutral (assuming you have a neutral in the box) this issue goes away. They also sell these: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LUT-MLC/dp/B01E9F084E.

You put one of these in parallel with the load and it will pull enough power to make the non-nuetral work.

&#x200B;

2) He could mean that the load is too much for the light switch. The switches are support 3 amps I believe off the top of my head (Check the manual to verify!! It also might be different for each switch). Generally that is more than enough for a light and normal fan.

https://imgur.com/a/wUPJBUf

Honeywell Home RPLS740B ECONOswitch 7-Day Solar Programmable Switch, Lights and Motors, Indoor and Outdoor, Energy Saving https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004AP92N2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_SKB6KG32F0Z8ZT01XB10?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

I was really surprised to see that there was no grounding method as well. The switch can still be screwed in if I wrap the bare ground around the screw behind the metal plate. It ll be sandwiched behind the metal that is part of the switch and box.... I figured this was the next best option.

Not sure if that link need to be made public to view so let me know if you can't see it.

Simple. replace the wall switch with one of these. It will power it on and off. It might be possible to control the speed with a dimmer switch, but I just keep the fan speed at Low.

Switch on Amazon

I find one of these remote switches very useful for fans: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Control-Wireless-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK

There are many variations on this on Amazon.

I have some Kasa light switches that allow me to turn lights on/off with alexa and also act like a standard switch.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EZV35QU/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Be aware that you'll likely want one like this that only has the one position. Meaning that like normal switches they show either up or down position to note on / off. The Kasa switch always looks like it's on the Up/On position. You tape the bottom of the switch and it acts like a push-button. Having a smart switch that moves in the up/down like normal switches can be confusing to know if you should press it down to turn off, when it's already off.

So at my church, I use one of these to turn on a device that is difficult to reach. I have several other ones at home. You can actually get multiple plugs and have them all connected to the same button. They're cheap and easy to set up. And these have a button on the side of them that can be used in lieu of using the remote.

There's also some other types of remotes where each item can be controlled by a separate button, but there's also an "all on" and "all off" button. But even if you're pressing multiple buttons, having them all on a single remote would still make it easier to do.

Found a link for the load capacitor! https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LUT-MLC/dp/B01E9F084E like I said if you call there support they will send one to you but if you hate talking to Humans you can buy one on Amazon.

There are normal switches in Caseta.

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-PD-6ANS-WH-Assistant/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=sr\_1\_1\_sspa?crid=235OPC3NWHYLM&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=caseta+switch&amp;qid=1635879578&amp;sprefix=caseta+switch%2Caps%2C215&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1&am...

I have looked for a solution to this exact problem and it came down to just installing a Honeywell timer switch. It’s a simpler solution for an outside garage, front door, or accent lighting. I looked at Lutron’s Caseta switches with a hub. But I already have a Phillips Hue setup with a hub and didn’t want to complicate things more. If I could find a reputable brand that offered a thread connected switch with HomeKit, I would have pulled the trigger on that. Eve offers this, but so far only sells the European version of a thread connected light switch. Thread is so fast! I have been testing a few thread enabled Nanoleaf bulbs and they are many times more responsive than the Phillips Hue with hub.

Honeywell Home RPLS740B1008 Econoswitch 7-Day Programmable Light Switch Timer, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004AP92N2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Y32HD4ZZPR0FEPMYCXFB?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

I used a non-smart switch with a built-in info based on the latitude.

Honeywell Home RPLS740B1008 Econoswitch 7-Day Programmable Light Switch Timer, White https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004AP92N2

This had been just working without much issue for 7 years now. Set and forget. There must be some power backup (capacitor) inside since I haven't mess with the clock for short power outages.

Here's a Lutron Caseta dual-switch that fits a single outlet box.

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-PD-6ANS-WH-Assistant/dp/B017LRCG38

I recently added a motion sensor to my front porch and setup an automation that turns the porch lights on (controlled by a TP Link HS200) if there is motion between the hours of 9:30 and 6 AM.

No, it’s a ceiling fan using a Wemo wall switch.

One of these:

Wemo F7C030fc Light Switch, WiFi enabled, Works with Alexa and the Google Assistant https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00DGEGJ02/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_6T8ANEFQ8RYZY9P7QZD0

I bought it a long time ago, I don’t think I spent that much on it? :)

You bet. https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Required-Requires-Assistant-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?adgrpid=59868230143&amp;dchild=1&amp;gclid=CjwKCAjw2bmLBhBREiwAZ6ugo0Q5TD4RpV88-21VMDg-W5aL7PU9KkKFF_uzSThYT_OMb-P2vmvOjhoCkJkQAvD_BwE&amp;hvadid=31003467... I use all tp-Link switches and plugs just because they seem to work easily. I have a Google ecosystem so you may want to include a nest hub https://store.google.com/ca/product/google_nest_hub_max?hl=en-GB If you are an Amazon ecosystem then they probably have their own devices.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-ypp-rep_ypp_rep_k0_1_7&amp;amp=undefined&amp;crid=GO820O78HEVF&amp;sprefix=caseta%2B&amp;th=1

60 bucks...

Love my Kasa switches at the same price point. They would need to be much cheaper to compete with such a stable product. I have most of my house on a mix of these switches and the smart dimmers and love how they have performed for the price. Kasa Smart Light Switch HS200,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Those fans are pretty great. There are other fans that will boast bigger CFM numbers but these are great at blowing all of the air right on your body and not just making your workout room 'breezy'.

I bought some remote control outlets off amazon so I don't adjust the fan's setting but I can turn one or both of my fans on and off from the remote.

These are the ones that I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Well i guess I should know that since that version is the very 1st Caseta switch I ever installed, but that was years ago. All the Caseta switches I installed after that are just on/off, not dimmers, and they do require a neutral wire:

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-PD-6ANS-WH-Assistant/dp/B017LRCG38

Single Pole, Needs Neutral Wire, 2.4GHz Wi-Fi Light Switch Works with Alexa and Google Home, UL Certified, No Hub Required,White of ONE Pack. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BF11PV1EB6SZQDB60FZV?psc=1

I'd agree, this is going to be your easiest route, by far. Electrically, there's plenty of other solutions but they're going to be much more complex to implement than just changing out the switch. The TP Link Kasa switches can be bought for ~$10-15: https://www.amazon.com/Kasa-Smart-Light-Switch-TP-Link/dp/B01EZV35QU

Clap on! Clap off! The Clapper! https://www.amazon.com/Clapper-Activated-Detection-Appliances-Technology/dp/B0000CGKLR

Hey u/hops_on_hops, thanks for posting this and apologies for the extra steps needed in your case.

Let me try to clarify as it sounds like we need to make the page a little more clear.

The switch is designed to work with no-neutral wire present. The only reason you will need a bypass is if the wattage of the load you have your switch wired to is under 25W. This is because the Z-Wave module on the switch requires some wattage to work. If your load is over 25W, you do not need the bypass.

Lutron sells a non-neutral switch as well, but as you can see, they also sell a bypass: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LUT-MLC/dp/B01E9F084E

Unfortunately, there's really no way around it unless you up the load wattage to above 25W by either swapping out your LED bulb with an Incandescent or having a higher wattage LED bulb (very difficult though, to get a 25W LED bulb).

Sorry for the confusion and I'll get with our team to make sure the page is clearer about why you need a bypass in a non-neutral setting.

Eric

Founder | Inovelli

Thanks for the help… both the lights and are controlled by switch they’re all one unit.. Would this suffice for the upgrade? Lutron Caseta Smart Home Switch, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, Google Assistant | 6-Amp, for Ceiling Fans, Exhaust Fans, LED Light Bulbs, Incandescent Bulbs and Halogen Bulbs | PD-6ANS-WH | White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_EFHGGZ8CQNTXA170P7R6

Yeah no problem. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_Z2F3YGN0T15J3VYPK4K0

Just for clarity I am considering it a midrange switch, not the best option, not the worst. Also non sale price is what I am referring to.

Thanks for the link. That seems like something I'd have to install in the wall above my switch?

I was thinking something like this could work to replace my switch: https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Required-Requires-Assistant-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU/

But I'm not sure if you're suggesting it wouldn't be up to the code and also I don't know if I can make it work locally.

Lutron makes onethat’s included with some of their smart switches. They are pricey to buy at the piece price, but one of the only listed ways to do it under NEC in the US.

You could install a dummy load in the outlet box if there's room for it. Lutron makes one for their caseta line of switches: LUC-MLC. One wire on the hot, one on the neutral. Takes care of this type of issue most of the time.

I may not be discussing this correctly. So please correct if not right. This device

https://smile.amazon.com/Lutron-LUT-MLC/dp/B01E9F084E/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&amp;keywords=LUTRON-LUT-MLC&amp;qid=1620174311&amp;sr=8-1

appears to allow for the dimmer switch to send the needed electricity to function even in very low voltage settings. I did not know this existed until last week. Research and this may help you out.

Replace the switch with a smart switch. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Kasa-Smart-Light-Switch-TP-Link/dp/B01EZV35QU/ (not an endorsement, this was just the first one I found).

And... DONE. You can now control it with alexa, google home, ect. Create a routine/skill that turns it on for 30 minutes and call that with your smart home app of choice, rather than calling the switch directly. Or you can physically manipulate the switch from the kitchen.

Sorry didn't take your description as meaning you didn't have neutrals.
So yes your best bet is probably the cap. Or you can add more lights to the circuit of you'd like.

Believe neutral required for this Lutron Caseta Smart Home Switch, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, Google Assistant | 6-Amp, for Ceiling Fans, Exhaust Fans, LED Light Bulbs, Incandescent Bulbs and Halogen Bulbs | PD-6ANS-WH | White https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_KN8BVPRBBW027P536Z6D

It's likely that the dimmer and lighting aren't 100% happy together. I have bought so many bulbs and dimmers over the last couple years to find happy combinations. And even some combinations I'd call "happy" aren't completely happy especially at the low end. Yeah, a cap supposedly can help. I just bought a couple of the Lutron version but haven't installed yet. https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LUT-MLC/dp/B01E9F084E

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Here.

> I will say I am rethinking sticking with toggles. I have had many visitors flip a switch with a whole arm swipe, which seems bad for longevity.

That's the kind of thing I'm interested in hearing. Thanks for sharing.

That said, I'm not sure that's any different for any smart devices when it comes to visitors. I had this GE/Jasco dimmer in my previous house and guests constantly misused it by holding down to turn it off (instead of tapping) which would just dim to the lowest brightness. And then they would also turn it on and and just accepting that the lights were supposed to be at their lowest brightness. I suppose that type of user error is less concerning than improper use that could damage, though!

This was a zwave+ model.

I think this is the 2nd gen. I see there's another gen beyond this, and honestly I think I saw Jasco is just switching away from licensing the GE Logo.

Related, I did notice Lowes dropped their partnership with GE.

I think you need a resistor that lutron makes

Lutron LUT-MLC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9F084E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_WBH7Fb3QJS4DX

We had the same issue with led overhead fixtures staying dim when off. This fixed it.

Caseta still has a regular on-off that isn’t for dimming lights. I have one in my laundry room. Lutron Caseta Smart Home Switch, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, Google Assistant | 6-Amp, for Ceiling Fans, Exhaust Fans, LED Light Bulbs, Incandescent Bulbs and Halogen Bulbs | PD-6ANS-WH | White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_sLZ6FbKWJYJ6B?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Definitely a noobie DIYer here, hence why I'm here to ask questions and learn (:

Okay, so sounds like I don't have a neutral and will need either a Caseta or some other solution (like smart bulb) then. I was hoping to get the TP-Link Kasa Smart Switches since they're a fair bit cheaper ($17) than Caseta ($70) in Canada. Open to suggestions though!

I was looking to buy a couple of the TP-Link Kasa Smart Switches since they're the most affordable here in Canada ($17 compared to the Caseta for $70).

Open to suggestions though, but like /u/dcduelist said, I'd like to be able to turn on/off with phone or switch!

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Disclaimer: The deal links are affiliated. We may earn a small share on qualifying purchases. It does not affect the deal price in any way.

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Instead of fixing the switched outlets, you may just want to purchase a set of these. For only $20, you can postpone the major detective work for another time.

It sounds like you need a "smart switch". You can set them up to automatically turn on/off on a schedule, but still control it manually.

For example: https://smile.amazon.com/Kasa-Smart-Light-Switch-TP-Link/dp/B01EZV35QU

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Do you need to switch the power at the light head or can you do that from the house?

https://www.amazon.com/Kasa-Smart-Light-Switch-TP-Link/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&amp;keywords=Smart+Home+Switch&amp;qid=1603536006&amp;sr=8-6

The problem with the consumer level products (most) is that you're required to use a specific brands app for those devices and in most cases other integrations (Hue / Alexa / Google and whatnot) all require an active Internet connection so they can contact the mothership of the equipment you're using to switch it on and off.

You have a few options, you can use traditional z-wave devices and then pair them to a remote like the Aeon Labs minimote and operate them that way (no hub required). I also discovered that GE has a bluetooth switch that you can program and operate remotely with your phone but looks like you don't want to use a phone.

Edit: as /u/gurase mentioned Lutron has a system that will work too.

I'd suggest: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2/

https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSA03202-v1-Minimote/dp/B00KU7ERAW/

and if you get a hub later, you can still use these devices so that is a plus.

The WiFi switches also act as normal switches. You can turn them manually on and off but still retain the Alexa ability to use voice. BUT these will not work with WiFi bulbs, when the switch is off it does remove power to the bulbs. You need to use dumb light bulbs with the WiFi switches. I have most of my switches converted to these...

Kasa Smart Light Switch by TP-Link, Single Pole, Needs Neutral Wire, 2.4Ghz WiFi Light Switch Works with Alexa and Google Assistant, UL Certified, 1-Pack (HS200), White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_zueHFbQ5311K4

This is designed for what she wants to do

You can enter in the latitude and longitude of her house, the switch calculates the sunrise and sunset times for each day of the year. Or it can just come on and go of at pre designated times.

I wouldn't use the fan speed control switch. Dimmable lights and adjustable speed fan motors require power to be provided in different ways that are incompatible, and if you try to hook them to the same adjustable switch, one won't work properly and may get damaged. The only Caseta switch that will work to control both a fan and a light on the same circuit is this on / off switch: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-PD-6ANS-WH-Assistant/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&amp;keywords=lutron+caseta&amp;qid=1601411520&amp;sr=8-7 You would still be able to adjust the fan speed from the fan itself, but the light would either be on or off, not dimmable.

Are you sure you don't have two separate circuits connected to a single switch? If so, then you could convert the box to dual gang and use one light dimmer switch and one fan control switch just like you do everywhere else.

Lutron makes a shunt capacitor that should solve your ghosting problem. See LUT-MLC which is actually made for use with Caseta 2-wire smart dimmers, that naturally create LED ghosting. The advantage of using Lutron’s product is that your using a code compliant UL listed device rather than haphazardly wiring up some random electronic components that might someday cause a fire because they failed or the wiring method failed.

You won't find much if anything that doesn't use wifi or a hub. If you can tolerate a remote, then get https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=emc_b_5_i

It may be the dimmer causing the problem even if everything is compatible.

This is a common problem with led lights on a smart dimmer that doesn’t use a neutral wire. If a smart dimmer doesn’t have it’s own neutral connection to power its controls it instead connects to the neutral through the light bulb and this produces a faint glow.

You can eliminate this problem by switching to a dimmer with a neutral connection or if none is available at the switch location you can install a dummy load on the circuit.

Lutron LUT-MLC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9F084E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EMmfFbYQM9GDV

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I have about 2/3 of my house set up now via Alexa and smart switches. I happened to get a deal (at the time) through Amazon on Kasa (TPLink) switches. Regular "on/off" switches, 3 way switches and dimmer switches. Good name, seems to be a quality product (going on 8 months with this setup).

https://www.amazon.com/Kasa-Smart-Light-Switch-TP-Link/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&amp;keywords=kasa+switch&amp;qid=1599949595&amp;sr=8-4

For example ...

Yeah that's what I am getting at, however with this with 3 side by side, wouldn't it look really silly and bulky since each switch has it's own frame around it?

Thanks.

Sure. Just plug some floor lamps into remote control outlets. You can sticky the remotes by the door. Not the most elegant solution in the world but they work fine. Pretty cheap on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_.Lj3DbR46CBYM