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Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel, Standard Adapters?
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Then I will keep an eye out on the radiator to see if I need to top out any coolant
--That step is crucial and many forget to keep an eye on the coolant level after driving it around.
I'd definitely get a good radiator funnel for burping like the one linked below. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A6AS6LY/
Hmm interesting I just received the lisle one from amazon and was about to return it since the caps don’t fit. Which adapter and cap did you use to get a tight seal?
Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6AS6LY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This is the one I got, I’m not sure if it’s the same one you have. I would love to use that one you linked but i don’t have compressed air which is a bummer.
bleed it like normal but have the a/c on full heat when you do it. this circulates the coolant in your heater core as well to rid of air pockets. sounds like there’s still air in the system. also if you could get a coolant funnel that would be ideal.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
Not sure what vehicle you have, but most 1MZFE engines have a radiator cap on the radiator or thermostat housing.
Personally I use the Lisle 'no spill funnel kit' and the Toyota adapter that comes with it:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
Btw, this is the funnel I used to help get all the air out of the system. It's not something that will get used often, but it sure made that job easier.
Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel, Standard Adapters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_AYH7KBNND12XTPM10TMT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel, Standard Adapters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Z9KK4NTRG92DDMREW3NN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I purchased this when I swapped out my stuck t-stat. Worked beautifully. Not very cheap but made flushing the coolant soooo much easier.
I assume you changed the thermostat when you changed the water pump?
Air pockets would make it over heat to some degree, yes. If you filled the expansion tank with a special coolant funnel, you’d almost eliminate any air pockets.
Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel, Standard Adapters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_F2E90WYX7WP2SA4XW6HW
My radiator lasted 170,000 miles and the only reason why I changed it was that it sprung a leak in the upper corner where the plastic meets the aluminum.
You could have a bad radiator, but it’s doubtful…
I’d try and get all the air pockets out with the special funnel & doing the bleed procedure 2-3x before o dropped $200.00 on an OEM radiator.
Honestly with the way the G’s cooling system is set up air in the system is going to happen a lot so my tried and true method of filling coolant straight into the bleeding port slowly with a long thin funnel usually made the whole process a whole lot quicker. You still have to burp the system the normal way with the heat on full blast and the lisle funnel Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel, Standard Adapters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_A0NB1DNX05DYWXJY9BR0 but that did the trick for me every time.
I got mine from moparfactoryparts.com. If I were you I would change the thermostat and sensor at the same time so you only need to burp the system once. If you can swing it get a burping funnel. Dang thing makes the process easy as heck. Here is a link to the funnel. Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel, Standard Adapters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_2NMGY9DC3AM223K2RXP3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If this is you burping the coolant, you're doing it wrong.
Get this: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
Jam it in the opening for the filler cap and pour coolant into it until it's around 2" deep. Run the car and top off as the level gets low and/or there are no more bubbles.
Burping the car is easy is you have the right funnel.
Fill up your coolant as you woul normally on the radiator, expansion tank and reservoir. Then place your cover on the radiator and reservoir.
I personally put the funnel on top of the expansion tank since it’s the highest place, then I’ll place coolant in the funnel.
Next start your car and the the heater to full heat. Let your car run and you should start to see your funnel bubble. I then will start to help by squeezing the top radiator hose. Do this until the bubbling stops. Watch your temp gauge though so it doesn’t go into the red.
Here is the link for the funnel I used Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DSANFbZZ4H1J9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
An easy way to check is your thermostat is opening is once you hear your fans kick in check your bottom radiator hose. It should get hot once the thermostat opens at operating temp. If it stays cold that’s an easy way to know it’s not working right.
HOPE THIS HELPS!
Mishimoto has always been a trusted brand with me. I've owned two decently modified WRXs in the past and both relied on Mishimoto rads to keep everything cool on the track. I'm kinda just sitting around waiting for this Orielly one to bite the dust so i have an excuse to upgrade it. The only reason I have the cheapy one at the moment is because I was in a pinch, the PO had installed an ebay special aluminum 3 row and it developed a nasty leak right around the area one of the efans was rubbing up against it. I needed the jeep to get to work the next day, Oreillys was the only thing around me that was open at the time so here we are lol.
Almost forgot scoop one of these, totally worth it for burping the cooling system and saving a mess
Based on your previous owner, I'd say ignore the test kit & flush your coolant. Using pure coolant is counterintuitive; your car will actually cool worse because it has worse heat transfer properties than water. It's also thicker, meaning you're causing extra wear on your water pump. Glycol based coolants need to be mixed with water to be effective.
1) Drain coolant from engine & radiator. 2) Remove thermostat. 3) Fill with distilled water. 4) Run the engine for a couple minutes until temp gauge starts to rise. Doesn't need to get too hot. 5) Drain the water from engine & radiator. 6) Repeat 3-5 at least twice more. You want the water to be mostly clear after the last freshwater rinse. 7) Replace your thermostat. I always suggest using a new one. They are very cheap, and it's the best time to replace it. 8) Add roughly half of your coolant capacity in concentrated coolant. If you have a v6 or 5.0, that's 5.9 quarts (11.8q total cap) and 4.6L takes 6.35 quarts (12.7q total cap) 9) Top off the system with fresh distilled water. 10) Run the engine to op temp to burp the system. I highly recommend the use of a burping funnel.
They make a funnel just for bleeding the coolant systems on vehicles. Ive always just filled it up, and turned it on till coolant starts flowing and cap the rad. Though it takes a warm up or two to get it back to normal. When i did it this last time with the funnel. It was burped in minutes, and working great. It also makes filling the coolant so much faster o.0
Link to funnel.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
That funnel that he's talking about is a game changer. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1510067876&sr=8-4&keywords=coolant+funnel
When I burped the coolant in my XJ after replacing my radiator and t-stat all I did was fill it up til the radiator was full + some in the funnel itself (it won't spill if you have the correct adapter and cap on the neck), then I started it and watched it semi close for a couple minutes to make sure it didn't suck all the coolant out of the funnel, then I just let it run for like 30 minutes while I cleaned up all the tools and mess from changing the radiator. I would just glance at the funnel once every few minutes or so to make sure it hadn't sucked the funnel dry.
I've bled cooling systems with varying degrees of success without the spill proof funnel, but there almost always ends up being a huge puddle of coolant below the car and/or I never quite get all the air out of the system. That funnel makes it pretty much foolproof.
There's not one right on the thermostat housing? Like I said the ones on the T/B are higher anyways so you'll get more of a complete bleed. But just slowly pull the one line off. It'll spray all over! It'll take like 3 seconds once the air is all at the top. Also a spill free funnel on the radiator will help tremendously. Lisle sells them pretty cheap. Lisle spill free funnel
My 2004 WJ I6 4.0L doesn't have a bleeder screw so I couldn't use one to bleed the system. I changed the water pump and I used one of those no-spill funnels to fill with coolant:
Made it a snap. I squeezed the upper coolant hose to burp out any air as I was running the car and didn't have any issues.
The 3400 should have brass air bleed screws at the waterpump and where the upper rad hose meets the engine. Be gentile as the heads will easily snap off. Also run the heat full blast the whole time and make sure the temp stay around half the gauge as these normally run a hair under half. Also they sell what is called a spill free funnel that replaces the rad cap. They are handy and worth the $30 or so they cost. Edit: this... http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
I know its a little late but when I replaced my radiator everything I read recommending purchasing a Lisle funnel for burping the system. It worked like a charm - especially nice since it was the last step in a long afternoon. Also for the radiator: buy a pack of the black plastic clips for the plastic guards under the car (also on Amazon), no doubt you'll break a few and the Honda dealerships charge like $2 a piece.
Like someone else said below, buy a 1/2" breaker bar. You can ruin your ratchets putting too much torque on them. A 3/8" breaker is often really useful, too. I buy craftsman for a lot of this stuff - its pretty cheap but they will literally just hand you a new tool off the shelf if you come in with a broken one. Also, 4" and 6" extensions are really convenient.
Its not what you were asking but: find a Harbor Freight in your area. They are definitely cheap tools but you're not a pro - sometimes you just need to get the job done. I have an electric impact drill that has saved my ass a few times. I think I bought it for like $20. Plus a set of universal joints for 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" inch. Super cheap and very useful. Don't buy anything from there without a 20% off coupon (you can bring them up on your phone).
1) Does the heat work? Does the heater blow hot air? If not, thermostat is more than likely stuck closed. Would cause overheating. Replace thermostat if no heat at heater.
2) Some cars are really, really hard to "burp". You need this to do it properly. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447432225&sr=8-1&keywords=Coolant+bleeder
You basically attach it, fill it up, run the car, put your heater settings to HOT but leave the fan off and run the car until the radiator fan comes on. You'll need to rev the motor a bunch of times and watch for air popping back up. Also doesn't hurt to jack up the front end a little. Tires still on the ground. Make sure there is coolant in the reservoir. Or you let it cool down with the bleeder still attached. But no necessary.
3) Look for oily residue in the neck of the radiator or on the inside of the radiator cap. If there is oily residue see #4 below.
4) Worst case if this doesn't work is there is a head gasket leak or intake manifold leak. A head gasket leak will cause super heated gases to hit the coolant passages and cause overheating. My Suburban had this happen with the intake manifold gaskets failing causing overheating.
If you can afford it, take it to a dealer. It's usually only $150 or so to diagnose the problem. Then if you want to fix it yourself, that's an option.
Good luck!
bleed the system properly.
I can almost guarantee you have air in the system. if you're not noticing the level dropping.
to bleed the car properly watch this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUpXgAJ1gjU
you can get that funnel off amazon Lisle spill free funnel
you can certainly do it without that funnel but you'll be in for a messy/sticky job and you'll let fluid spill all over the damn place.
Grab yourself one of these for your garage. Not expensive but a lifesaver with the KA engine. Lots of people seem to have a hard time getting all of the air out of the coolant on our cars. This is a universal tool and one of my favorite 'gimmicky' tools in my garage.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
Second, go here and download a factory service manual for your car. You can look through all of the pictures/etc. it has torque specs, exploded views of how everything goes together, wiring diagrams. Everything the Nissan technicians needed to repair these cars at the dealership. You can become intimately familiar with how everything works on/in your car just by looking through this thing.
Lots of people seem to really struggle getting all of the air bled from the coolant on the KA for some reason. Jack up the front and use one of these funnels. let the car come up to temp with the heater on defrost, full heat, full blast. might need to rev it a few times. You may still have air trapped in there. if so, with that thing about a third or half full, it'll be the high point on the system and the air will escape there. Don't fill it more than half of the funnel, the coolant will expand as it heats.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
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especially from your statement that there is no hot air coming out in defrost.
100% you've still got air trapped in there.
Ingenuity, I like it. I eventually bought a spill free funnel. Comes in pretty handy. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_glt_i_39CV1JQBWBYW2WFBV2VH
So what happens is that the thermostat has a small bypass hole in it. It's tiny, maybe 1/8", but it's enough to allow some coolant to flow between the 2 sides. The google term is: "Jiggle Valve"
When you fill the rad, first the lower hose fills up, which goes to the thermostat. While you're filling the rest of the radiator, some coolant is bubbling it's way through that hole and filling up the block.
Once you get closer to the top of the radiator, you'll keep pouring but the level won't get much higher. You're filling up the block at that point.
When you do eventually start the motor, the water pump starts rotating, and moves even more coolant through that little hole. It's got enough in the block to circulate stuff, but there are still air pockets here and there.
Which is why we burp it! It lets all those little nooks and crannies get their air out. However, the block is still 90% of the way full already.
Another thing to note: Subarus can have issues with aftermarket thermostats. I've seen it time and time again, and always recommend just shelling out the $30 for the OEM ones.
Lastly: That hole should be on the TOP. It's not a huge deal if it's top or bottom, but that's what the engineers recommend.
If you intend to be doing coolant more than once or twice, I'd also HIGHLY recoomend a Lisle funnel. They just save SO MUCH time and hassle, since you just keep the funnel a little bit full, and you can watch the bubbles come out, then use the stopper to return any un-used coolant into the bottle when you're done. Works a treat, and I've seen them in every shop I've worked in!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xXzfFbR77A063
Here's the kit. Makes dealing with coolant issues on these cars a lot easier, especially when you need to run with the radiator cap off.
I followed this recently: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xERW_2D3_O8
Worked well, you'll need one of these to do it his way: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY/
Also procedure - open drain plug at bottom of radiator, use pan to catch coolant, drain, close drain plug. The hoses are held on by little clamps that you usually squeeze with pliers then slide up the hose. Pull them off. Transfer hose clamps to new hoses, install, squeeze hose clamps and slide them to the ends.
Open radiator cap and poor coolant in until it's full. Use this procedure to bleed the system. A "burp kit" like this is what you'd want to be able to get all of the air out of the cooling system, otherwise your car WILL overheat and it can cause all sorts of terrible problems.
Post if you run into any problems.
this spill free funnel makes coolant bleeding a lot easier in most cars.
Here is a video on how to do it. Buy the bucket here: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1448917230&sr=8-1&keywords=coolant+bucket No mess, you can burp the car yourself.
this $25 funnel makes it a much easier job as well
the overflow is just a place for the coolant to go when it's hot and expands. adding to there don't really add to your radiator.
your best bet is to check for air in the system and bleed the system. I have the same car as a daily driver and it's really easy to bleed the coolant.
park it in a situation where the front end is on a incline slightly or flat but not on decline. Make sure the car hasn't been running for a while and the coolant temps are down. Open the radiator cap (not the overflow cap) fill the radiator to full you'll have it spill everywhere once it's warm so I suggest this product http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1436459632&sr=8-1&keywords=lisle+coolant+funnel it's worth the cost if you ever do fluid changes/radiator bleeds.
you'll have to keep the car at ~3000rpm until the radiator fan kicks on. this signifies that your car is fully warmed up and the thermostat is open. you want to turn your heater to HOT, fan actuation doesn't matter. this allows coolant to flow into your heater core.
what you're going to be doing is now monitoring the fluid level with the cap off and adding as needed, in a system with air in it you'll see bubbles come out of the radiator. This is good. when you no longer see bubbles shut the car down and replace the radiator cap.
this job gets a little hot and the coolant will be hot so use caution. Never open a radiator cap with the temps being hot.
Here's a Video from Eric the Car Guy showing you exactly what i'm talking about. 50/50 antifreeze isn't cheap the $25 funnel will pay for itself. Also a improperly bled coolant system on your car can cause idle issues.
also a bad radiator cap can allow for small leaks that burn off and reduce the coolant levels in your car, it's not a bad idea to replace the cap.
replace the radiator cap.
use one of these to bleed your coolant next time.
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
To bleed the system just leave the cap off of the radiator and let the bubbles burp out at the engine is running. Make sure the heat is on and the blower motor is on high. They make a special funnel that you can use (Spill Free Funnel). It may be worth it to buy it or it may not. If you don't use it then put a big catch pan underneath the radiator opening.
Once you start to get good heat then you know most of the air is out of the system. Take it for a drive as long as all the gauges look good then let it sit and cool off. Check the coolant afterwards and away you go!
Its possible you may need to rev the engine up to get the bubbles out (like 2k or just quickly put it to wide open throttle and let it come back down).
If you don't see any bubbles coming out and you don't see any leaks on the ground, but you don't have heat you could try just driving it. Driving it may help push some more bubbles out.
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