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Lisle 63600 Oil Filter Tool,U.S.,2-1/2 - 3-1/8?
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The Lisle filter Tool--Amazon makes changing Subaru filters a piece of cake.
Worked in automotive for 6 years. Now i work on bikes/boats. Its a godsend for screw on filters. they make a bigger one for diesels too.
get the cup. you can use other tools such as a spring loaded one of these, but you will eventually waller out the plastic that the cup( read: proper tool) needs to get a firm grip
Lisle 63600 has never failed me and works in tight spots
Those can be handy, but I vastly prefer this style. Less likely to puncture the filter and you don't need to figure out which way the claws need to be oriented.
If you like the k&n oil filters they have the hex nut to make removal of breeze. I usually get whatever is on sale between wix, kn, and Bosch premium (filtech made same as the best OEM Honda filters).
I look forward to arguing about oil and filters with you guys. Pennzoil platinum ultra here but I've heard really good things about their Pennzoil Platinum high mileage formula. Going to try that next weekend since I'm due for an oil change and I've heard it's really good about minimizing oil consumption. I usually use up a quart topping off my oil as it gets low between oil changes.
Just throwing my 2 cents in on this topic: Filter removal is super easy with one of these:
This $10 claw tool is the cheat code we used at my old quick lube shop for stubborn filters. Put it on a 3/8 ratchet, turn it counter clockwise to set it on the filter, and turn clockwise to remove it. If it doesn't move, get a longer ratchet or a cheater bar. Something will come off. $10 well spent, imho.
Also, if you haven't already, warm up the car before trying to remove the filter, and spray some penetrating oil around the base of the filter.
Best of luck!
Not sure if anyone mentioned this but these Lisle filter tools can literally get anything off… even in tight spaces. Just throw on an extension and go off: Lisle 63600 Oil Filter Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR4Q8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_D5R158MWC5QY2HW230QC
Honestly, give a local shop a call and see if they'll come out to help you if you can't chisel it off with a screwdriver. With all due respect to Talon, that tool looks like a less useful of a spring cup.
You're right on hand tight only! Don't forget to lube up the filter gasket with some fresh oil as well.
Lisle 63600 oil filter tool should fit the diameter of the oil filter. Slim profile gets into tight spaces and gets a good grip on the filter. If the filter is on tight, it basically crushes the filter to get an even better grip.
Better/longer strap wrenches or something like this lisle filter tool.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8
Downvote me if you like, but you'll never see a professional mechanic stabbing stuck filters because it usually ends like OP's filter.
i'm a subaru dealer tech so my experience is slightly limited, but the 2-jaw Lisle 63600 is my favorite by far for anything small enough to fit in the jaws, which is basically everything I've come across.
You will likely want a set of decent plier-style filter removers, as well as at least a toyota 4- and 6-cylinder cup for what you do.
I've had a couple of sizes of this tool for well over a decade, and have never ever had a problem, nor had a filter I couldn't remove. This is basically the same design as the one above, except it doesn't tighten. There's no need to tighten with a tool anyway, so that's a pointless feature.
You guys need the right tool. A good oil filter wrench makes a world of difference on an aluminum block. I do these filters every day, they tighten gradually with every heat cycle so it's normal for them to be insanely tight 6k miles later. In all my career at Subaru I've never seen anyone use a tool to tighten these filters, they are always done by hand.
If you get the right size, something like this never fails.
Firstly, I agree with ramps over jacks for anything not requiring wheel removal. Second, one of these adjustable oil filter tools have been my best friend. 1 tool any filter. They make a 2 finger and a 3 finger model. I have a 2 finger one as shown in the link, reviews show it has more "bite" than the 3 finger one
As I am a subaru tech, these don't scare me anymore. But i'll let you in on the tricks that work for me.
- Use an oil filter claw. I'm partial to the 2-jaw, like the Lisle 63600. Put that on a 6" extension and then a cheapie 3/8" ratchet. We're only going to use this to crack the filter loose, maybe 1/4 turn.
- Let the filter drain! The oil that's in the filter will stay there obviously, but the oil in the pipework to and from the filter will want to drain back. Let it flow down the filter and into your catch. When it stops dribbling, proceed to 3.
- If it's not so hot, simply place a shop rag over your hand, reach up there, and spin it off. Be careful not to tip the filter over and dump its oil on the exhaust.
- If it really is a scorcher, grab one of those ubiquitous foam coffee cups from the break room or wherever, and shove it onto the bottom of the filter. The bottom of the cup will hang down low enough for you to spin it free without touching the exhaust.
- Verify the oil filter seal didn't stick to the engine before installing new filter, via step 3 method if necessary.
At this point i've just calloused my wrists and the back of my hands though so usually I just barehand it.
Been using the Lisle version for years. Two sizes fit most filters.
NEVER use any tool to tighten the filter.
If you're referring to this style, don't use it on a plastic cansiter filter housing. They make specific sockets for those.
Heck of a lot easier to get one of these.
That engineer's name is Lisle and he invented a dope oil filter wrench for that. Now his toast is buttered on both sides.
look up the make model and year on youtube/google. I used to work at a quick lube and can tell you, some are a complete bitch, and some are a dream. My Subaru is amazing for example, it looks like this. that's the filter on the left (says FRAM) and the drain plug on the pan to the right of it. takes me 3 min to change it, the only PITA is it uses a one time use copper crush washer. but then on some models you get fun things like the "ring of fire" on some Subaru; or the always fun skid plates. Some cars even have the filer in crazy places like in the wheel well. but you also get ones that are super convenient like the ones on top of the motor. there is also a completely different kind of filter that has no can! Those can be really easy or a bitch.
for tools, all you need is a good filter wrench, a proper size wrench for the plug, a new gasket for the plug (EVERYONE forgets this and re-uses them causing leaks).
proper steps to do it at home is to either use ramps or a jack and jackstands. a creeper is also nice to have, but not needed. Then you slide a drain pan (get one that seals like that, makes like easier) under the car. remove your oil fill cap on top of the engine (where the oil goes in) and slide underneath the car. line the catch pan up under the drain plug (the oil will arc about 3"-6" away from the plug at first! be warned! keep some absorbant onhand for spills, or put cardboard down. Oil will stain and weaken asphault). Once the oil is draining, remove your oil filter, there will be oil above it that will drip too, so watch out! use the wrench if nessasary. then, make sure that the old gasket came off with the filter, and feel the base of where it screwed on to make sure there wasn't one trapped (rare, but happens!). now take a dab of oil, run it on the seal of the new filter, and spin it on. proper torque is "turn it until it touches the base, then add 1/4-1/2 turn". then remove the old drain plug gasket, replace it, thread it back in and tighten (not too tight! especially in aluminum! you can damage the pan!) then add the correct amount of new oil (look it up in your manual or online). then start the car and wait for the oil pressure light to turn off on the dashboard, and either back down the ramps, or turn it off and let it down from the jack stands. check your oil level.
I think it's a good idea for everyone to change their oil once, just to learn how (unless it needs special tools or something)
If you have access from the bottom, I really like the kind that clamp around the filter and dig in. They will have a 3/8 socket attachment.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SR4Q8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You're welcome.
I use a Lisle oil filter tool paired with a ratchet wrench. Grab onto the filter and easy to twist off.
I use the second one and they work great most of the time. If those don’t work Lisle makes a really nice tool.
I like the two jaw ones better, they seem to slip less. My go to is similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8
Of course, I only change my own and so they are never over tightened.
I like the kind that fit over the bottom and grab into the filter.
Get yourself one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8
personally I prefer the Lisle 63600 but any of these claw-style tools will work great.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8
This is my favorite oil filter wrench. Works great for the 4Runner also
This saved me from shame of not being able to perform a full oil change: Lisle 63600 Oil Filter Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR4Q8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_GB9Q10BMYAAAFJF62KQX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Buy one of these for next time. the springs are finicky, but mine has not failed me yet getting a tight filter off. Then again, I usually change my own so there is never a dry seal or on overly tight. The filter wrenches that go over the end will pop off. The pliers type crush the filter.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8/
I finally broke down and got the toyota-specific tool a few years ago, but before that I to used my generic filter tool on them and it worked fine:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8
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I've had good success hitting these tabs on the end with a hammer and punch. Just good solid whacks to get it to spin counterclock-wise.
Eventually if that doesn't work, the nuclear option is one of these guys with a 1/2" adapter and long ratchet. They may even crush the whole canister, which is why I call it the nuclear option
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8
You need the right tools for the job, this one works for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SR4Q8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here you go. Best filter tool I ever used
Lisle 63600 Oil Filter Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR4Q8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_srcBFbJ86RZ9P
There is this tool, which has all of the removing ability of the tool in question, but it is much simpler because it doesn't have the pointless tightening feature.
The filter may be too destroyed to work but I been able to get any filter off with these:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8
Just answered a similar post. I've had great luck with these:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8
This is the one I use, with whatever socket extension you need to reach up to where the filter is:
Lisle 63600 Oil Filter Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR4Q8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Po8jCb423416Z
This Lisle Oil Filter Tool works well too. They also have a larger size for bigger filters.
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