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Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242 Nut/Bolt Locker?
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Thanks, useful to know specifically where the failure happened.
Anyone using gear like this: Use LockTite Threadlocker or something similar on all threaded parts meant to stay put!
Small dab of blue loctite on the threads of each axle bolt. Apply, install, tighten, and let the loctite dry overnight to form the bond.
Threadlocker blue is terrific stuff. It's not meant to be permanent, but makes it so you really need to put some elbow grease on it to unlock it. Never had something come undone with TL Blue. I had to reverse a small bolt (less than 1/4") the other day that I had just put TL on a few weeks back, and it was tough. On a big half inch bolt that has sat for a few months I'd imagine it'll lock it down real tight, after years the combination of oxidation and threadlock and bending - it's not coming off without a hacksaw.
There is a Threadlocker red, which is intended to be permanent, but I think that's overkill. It can be reversed, but you have to heat up the bolt then break it. It's just a porch swing, a quality through-bolt, tightened down properly, with TL blue on the threads - it's not going anywhere.
I mean they probably put thread locker on screws. if they put alot with screws, you can soft it with heat, then screws should come loose easily when you try to remove them.
I don't know how much your shipping costs are, but wouldn't it just be cheaper to buy loctite on Amazon?
Ok that's incredibly weird. I'd love to see pics of the inside, or even just the "ink". Could be like Eva said and it's this stuff, which would make the most sense but that stuff is supposed to cure in 24hrs and you've owned it for 10 months. And it definitely shouldn't be coming out of the sticks unless there was like a puddle if it sitting in your controller that long.
Please follow up I'm super curious wtf that is.
He is not wrong about these headphones and this sub hates hearing it. Seriously google the issue you are having and you will see this and cracked plastic is a super common issue with steelseries headphones even the top tier ones. If you want to keep your headphones once you find where the screws are that the other person said they have to keep tightening them you should use this it will keep the screws in place. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qtfOFbWV35JDN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I use Loctite blue threadlocker. It will hold it in place, but will still allow you to remove the bat when you actually want to remove it.
Any auto parts store has it or here is the amazon link.
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Heavy-Duty-Threadlocker-Single/dp/B000I1RSNS
its this stuff that you can find at walmart and hardware stores, it keeps the screws from falling out. link
This stuff will work and is removable (with a little effort) if you need to remove the joystick in the future. I use it to secure the nuts to the bolts on my car's brakes.
Loctite Heavy Duty Threadlocker, 0.2 oz, Blue 242, Single https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_i6T0Bb9RE5YJ3
You could grab some light-weight loctite like loctite blue: https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Heavy-Duty-Threadlocker-Single/dp/B000I1RSNS/
Then put a very very small amount on the threads, screw them as tight as you can, and let them sit. They'll be secure. And since you're using something like loctite instead of super glue, you can still unscrew them (though it'll take a lot more effort)
If the buzzing is your only problem get some loctite and apply a little bit to all the screws after setting it up. Fixed the buzzing on my Jazzmaster in 10 seconds. Just make sure you get the non permanent type so you can readjust it if needed. I almost guarantee the problem is just the screws not the whole bridge.
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Blue-Threadlocker-6-Milliliter-209728/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462848673&sr=8-1&keywords=loctite+blue Try to apply this product on the screw which tight the motor mount to the truck. based on what the boosted customer service said, those screws were designed to hold motor mount to the truck, temporarily while the epoxy completely dry. But, thread locker and screw hold motor mount really well. It has been almost 4months after I apply thread locker. and it still holds with any problem. but send them back to boosted before ur warranty ends just for check up, which i ll do pretty soon:)
Make sure to leave ur board for 24hours after u apply thread locker. make sure do not touch or ride for 24hours!!
Cool!
Thanks for the update!
Did you use threadlock to secure the bolts? Bolts wiggle free under normal use, but they don't with threadlock! :D
Also, carry a few spare bolts with you, because even the very best will wait till the worst possible moment before breaking! :(
Locktite blue 242. This is removable (which is what OP wants in this case obviously). If you want a permanent bond the red 271 is what you want.
I will add that for some reason the slipper on my Slash kept loosening every time I'd run it, so ended up needing to put some (removable) threadlocker on it, equivalent to this: https://smile.amazon.com/Loctite-Heavy-Duty-Threadlocker-Single/dp/B000I1RSNS/
Just make sure you don't get the permanent stuff.
Not sure why this started being an issue for me; last track day had been a few months before in snow. Got it out and it ran for about 15 seconds before getting too loose to move, and did the same the next two times I tightened it, until I added the threadlocker.
Use this. Apply, find the perfect tolerance and let sit over night.
This is what you need. Works like a charm.
That's the same slate we used on our film. It's a fine piece of kit that Does The Job. The 'color bars' are just ink printed and wear off over a month's use (see pic). It's the same kit you get on Amazon, they're just shipping directly from China.
Pro Tip: Put Loctite on the screws at the hinge of the sticks. They don't have washers and they fall off during production.
What most 'Watch Aficionado' people do not know is that watch guys spend a few hours a month grinding their screwdriver tips. Unless you specifically buy 'hollow ground' tipped drivers (with a good-sized price premium), if you work on watches, you must have a jeweler's screwdriver holder and 'sharpening stones' to remove the slope to the driver's tip. This is why many good drivers will ship with- or separately sell- additional tips so one can grind away until they are satisfied with the fit.
https://www.esslinger.com/watchmakers-screwdriver-holder-for-sharpener/
If you're doing screw/threaded link bracelets, you must also have some Blue Loctite #242 and degrease the screw threads with some solvent like alcohol. for around $7.00 one small tube will last a loooong time.
It is very common for the hex nut on the output jack to become loose. The jack has a lot of activity going on, between plugging and unplugging the cable, and the stress put on the jack while the cable is plugged into it.
Damaged wires at the output jack it probably the number one reason that we see post that say "My guitar doesn't produce signal from the strings any more--it just makes a buzzing noise?!?"
So keeping the nut secure on the output jack is important. What I use is kind of difficult to find--it's called a "wave washer":
https://www.ebay.com/itm/154599500505?
I've never seen them sold by guitar parts sellers, and it's difficult to find just the correct size in a bricks and motor hardware store. I've never ordered them online, as I did buy a lifetime supply at an old hardware store that is now closed.
I don't know what the magic is with these wave washers, but I've never had a jack nut come loose with them. Another option is the Lock Tite (blue), threadlocker product:
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Heavy-Duty-Threadlocker-Single/dp/B000I1RSNS
Some may ask, "why not just use a star-type lock washer?", but I've never had one preform anywhere near as well as a wave washer.
Loctite Blue 242: Loctite Heavy Duty Threadlocker, 0.2 oz, Blue 242, Single https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_AT5F5Q06P8X34R0AQRW6
That's pretty funny. If you haven't already solved this, a drop of loctite will do you.
This stuff. You can also use plumber's tape if the screws are too loose.
Next time use this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qtfOFbWV35JDN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 it will keep your screws in place and you won't have to keep fiddling with them.
Most hardware stores will have it on the shelf, just be careful not to buy the permanent red variety.
Otherwise, Amazon to the rescue.
​
is this what you're referring to? I saw a couple different strengths of blue
I feel like extruder wheel getting loose is a more common occurance in this sub in the last few months.
Yeah, it's just a thread sealant; keeps the threads from banging loose over time (which they do). UK might have a different version, but loctite is pretty prolific, I'd be surprised if you don't have it. Link below off the US market for reference; this is the blue stuff, which will keep the threads from coming loose, but will still let you remove it if you actively try. Another nut could work, but thread sealer is better for the purpose; it's also cheap, and the tiniest bottle will last a very long time. It only takes a drop or two on the threads.
Ah, now that I'm looking I even see .2oz: https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Heavy-Duty-Threadlocker-Single/dp/B000I1RSNS
Thanks!
This: Loctite Heavy Duty Threadlocker, 0.2 oz, Blue 242, Single https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KNelzbNETSX7V
Versus this: Permatex 24200 Medium Strength Threadlocker Blue, 6 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEMZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YMelzb052MTNF
Which do you recommend?
Tips for if it happens again..
You could use some screw glue to keep the screw from unloosing due to vibration and movement. https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Blue-Threadlocker-6-Milliliter-209728/dp/B000I1RSNS
Also, those red U shaped things on the end of the wires can be replaced with round ones. They wouldn't come off so easily. It's expensive to buy for one little project, but if you know an electrician or auto mechanic they might own the tools.
Wire crimpers: https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-11477-Ratcheting-Terminal/dp/B0069TRKJ0
Ends: https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Electrical-Insulated-Automotive-Terminals/dp/B01GXQMP66
this and get some
and watch thsi video to loctite it //////
There is potential for the screws to release.
Go ahead and get some, it's cheap and will keep your quad from coming apart mid-flight.
wierd....
here it is:
I had posted previously with a build, and you all gave me tons of things to think about. I've decided to order parts from more places so i can get them at a cheaper price. I'll be using banggood, getfpv, and hobbyking for my parts (and amazon prime for loctite!). This is my second time typing this out because my cat closed the tab... fml
Frame: Shendrone Kriger 225X GetFpv $89.99
Motors: Emax RS2205-2300 Banggood $74.89
ESC: FVT LittleBee 30A Banggood $58.49
FCB: CK REV6 NAZE32 Banggood $16.49
PDB/BEC Matek Mini PDB W/ BEC 5V & 12V Banggood $5.99 (Can someone confirm that i can use both the 5v and 12v regulators at the same time, couldnt find exact info on this)
Radio:Turnigy 9XR PRO HobbyKing US East $69.95
Transmitter: OrangeRX DSMX 2.4GHz GetFpv $32.99
Receiver: OrangeRx R615X DSMX 6Ch 2.4GHz w/CPPM GetFpv $11.44
Radio Battery: Turnigy 9XR 11.1v 3s 2200mAh 1.5C HobbyKing US East $14.61
FPV: Quanum Complete FPV Bundle Set w/ Goggles, 5.8GHz 32ch Video TX & RX, CP Antennas, Camera HobbyKing International $68.95 (I decided I'd cheap out on FPV and upgrade to a fatshark setup later)
Batteries: Lumenier 1300mAh 3s 35c GetFpv $67.96 (3 for drone 1 for goggles)
Charger: iMAX B6-AC Clone Banggood $32.99
Props: Gemfan 5030 black and white Hobbyking International $16.64
Random accessories/little things
XT60 Connector Banggood $2.99
red LED Banggood $2.59
Black Standoff Banggood $5.99
Black Heatshrink Banggood $5.20
Battery Strap GetFpv $6.99 (anyone know of any cooler looking battery straps that i wouldn't have to pay extra shipping on?)
Loctite blue AmazonPrime $5.49
Totals:
Banggood: $205.85
GetFpv: $224.03
HobbyKing US East: $84.52 + Shipping
HobbyKing International: $85.59 + Shipping
AmazonPrime: $5.49
Total: $605.48
I need some recommendations on cheapo solder, as the one they have a hobbyking just went on backorder. AmazonPrime perhaps? Also should i get a flux pen to flux my solder points even with rosin core solder?
How'd you manage to do that? Anyway, fill out KAI's customer service form http://kershaw.kaiusaltd.com/contact and they'll send you one (more like five) for free. If you notice any of them coming loose get some Blue Loctite http://www.amazon.com/Henkel-01-24200-Loctite-6-ml-Threadlocker/dp/B000I1RSNS and put it on the threads before you re-tighten them. it works like a charm.
Right, this is exactly the issue that's happening.
There are three solutions:
Use Loctite - This will prevent them from coming undone. But you can't let any touch the prop or it'll corrode the integrity.
Purchase reverse-threaded motor mounts to counteract the spin.
Use M5 Nylocks - This is what I use. I also purchased a simple ratchet wrench. They are cheap, plentiful, and allow you to do field repairs in just a matter of seconds.
This is what mine looks like. You can buy them from pretty much any hardware store. Just ask for M5 nylocks. They have a plastic bit inside (color doesn't matter). You can bring in one of your prop nuts just to double-check and confirm they're M5.
I use an 8mm ratchet wrench, the ratcheting capability is VERY important, it'll cut down your swap time by 90%.
So the screws you use to mount the bindings to the board loosen up? Maybe you should use something like loctite. My screws for my bindings came with some blue stuff on them which was probably something like that. http://www.amazon.com/Henkel-01-24200-Loctite-6-ml-Threadlocker/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1437819680&sr=8-1&keywords=loctite
FWIW, Loctite Blue on Amazon for $5 shipped w/Prime.
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