What is Reddit's opinion of Loctite Super Glue Ultra Gel Control, 0.14 fl oz, 1, Bottle?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

Remove all of the glass still in the tire, if any, and put a drop of super glue (I always used something similar to this ). Best to do this while the tire is off the rim as well. Any extra glue you get on the tire will wear away after you ride it. Used this trick a lot to get the most out of my tires lol

>but it was in a sitting position for a while

This is probably the culprit. Leaving a TPE figure in a dynamic pose for long periods of time puts stress on the skin that accumulates over time. Which is why I tend to put mine away when I'm done photographing them. I haven't tried it with too deep a gash, but cyanoacrylate glue worked for some tears that developed on my 1/6 figure. Might be worth a shot, though do a spot test to be sure there aren't any problematic interactions. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y49R7G

Oh no sorry to hear that! I would use this https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Ultra-Control-4-Gram-1363589/dp/B003Y49R7G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519869341&sr=8-1&keywords=loctite+ultra+gel&dpID=51RApY2mL2L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I have never had any problems in the past with this glue. place VERY fine amounts on her finger tips. This is what I would do, and I firmly believe it will work out fine.

So sorry :(

Edit: I purchase this from home depot all the time, but amazon would work fine. Keep me posted!

looks at all the comments saying “use x glue for this material but y glue for this material ...or just use locktite ultra control gel for literally everything.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Ultra-Control-4-Gram-1363589/dp/B003Y49R7G/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=loctite+ultra+control+gel&qid=1608852733&sprefix=locktite+ultra+contr&sr=8-4

I personally like to use homemade thermal paste, just because I feel better knowing how it’s made. It’s a recipe from my great great grandfather, which I have always used with great success. It goes like this:

​

Mix two servings of cement with one of mayo. Then boil it, so that the mayo really dissolves. After letting it sit for about one gaming session (5-8 hours), gently dip the underside of the CPU into the now finished paste.

I find that dipping it is better than applying it with a tube, because you have more control of the spreading.

The dipping process is then repeated about 2-3 times, with about 2 hours resting time in between. Once you’re finished, the underside should be completely covered in the now solid paste. You should not be able to see the gold contacts/pins.

If you can see them repeat the dipping process.

​

Now you may be wondering how to put in the CPU. For that you can just use a super glue of your choice (I personally like to use loctide) and apply it on the CPU slot of your motherboard (the plate somewhere in your PC case, that you glued everything else on). I always use the whole tube, because I paid for the whole tube.

My testing has also shown, that this thermal paste applying method, in combination with my homemade thermal paste works really well. So well in fact, that I have never even seen my CPU temperature rise above room temperature (even when the PC is plugged in)!

I tend to buy superglue from my local grocery store. Any kind of “Gel” superglue is what I prefer to use. Loctite has always worked really well for me!

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Ultra-Control-4-Gram-1363589/dp/B003Y49R7G

Here’s an amazon link as well

I would do a test with superglue. loctite has a superglue which is designed for glass, which might adhere a bit better to the crystal than normal superglue... though im sure normal superglue would be fine as well.

if you want the crystals to still be shiny, then not getting glue on the front is gonna be the biggest thing to watch out for. i would get some gloves from your local pharmacy and use tweezers to handle the crystals. if you get glue on the tweezers, wipe the tips down with a coffee filter soaked in acetone. (coffee filters don't have lint like paper towels do)

if you get some on your gloves, swap them out.

as for the super glue, any will do, but im fond of the loctite gel that has the squeeze things on the side. its a lot more precise, and you can get the last drops out while still being accurate on where it goes: https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Ultra-Control-4-Gram-1363589/dp/B003Y49R7G

Nicely done, looks like good overhead for OC. What kind of cooler are you using?

A couple notes if you tear things down: 1. There’s no need to spread the paste, a sufficiently sized blob in the middle of that die will spread out from the mounting pressure of the cooler. 2. You can use Loctite Gel Control Super Glue to mount the ihs back to the PCB without introducing a gap. You just need something to hold the IHS back in place in the delid tool (Rockitt and deliddiemate come with this, not sure about the one you linked) and apply a dab to each corner. Let dry and then place in socket. This is removable using the delid tool if you need to reapply LM for some reason.

Link to glue: Loctite Ultra Gel Control Super Glue 4-Gram (1363589) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y49R7G

Just put a super super small dot of it. I use gel glue. Like a really small dot of it. A little goes a long way. If you fuck it up you can still just return it.

The only glue I use on vinyl and plastic: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y49R7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_sKRTUtrN84TtD

I used this glue - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Y49R7G/

I really tried to use as tiny amount as possible and kept it closed while it dried. It was a little stuck when I opened it, carefully scraped the parts that needed it. Definitly still waterproof per light testing.

Ah ok, I ordered the stuff that Rockit cool recommended. I'll write up a similar post when all the stuff arrives.

This would be great to fill small dents in the floor. Just drip it in. Dries clear. If you use a wood putty of any kind, from 10 feet away, it will look like you dropped something on the floor https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Ultra-Control-4-Gram-1363589/dp/B003Y49R7G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474861033&sr=8-2&keywords=loctite+glue

Standard razor blade, sharpest available if I can find it. Range is over 300ft if I tune the hop up accordingly + use heavy BBs @ 1.49J (400FPS) w/ 410mm 6.05ish standard bore stock APS barrel with a custom R-hop. At that range it's a foot or two wider than a man sized target, but inside 200ft I can hit a tree almost every time. I used some gel based super glue to affix the nub to the arm because gel holds in place while drying better.

This is just my AK hop up, I did a quick and dirty job to it. The R-hop patch is a bit small for my liking but it works. That nub could be way flatter and I didn't get a perfect cut on it so I had to sand it down with some 400 grit sand paper instead.

I'd say once assembled main figures are on par with amiibo in quality. However, they have a couple problems which can be fixed.

First, the figures connect to their bases through little pegs that stick out of their feet. The pegs on some of them are really flimsy and can easily break off during assembly or if the figures are dropped. I used this super glue to bond the soles of their feet directly to the bases. Other spots on some figures could also benefit from super glue, such as connecting Sigurd's upper body to his legs (he's the only one that comes in two pieces like that), attaching Sylvia's pony tails, and attaching Eldigan's scarf.

Second, it's a bit difficult to assemble some of the figures. For example, you have to bend Lewyn's cape a lot to get it to fit. I was nervous the cape would break in the process, but there were no visible stretch marks on it. You also have to bend out Sigurd's legs a bit to get them to fit in the peg holes on the base and Eldigan's scarf requires a bit of bending.

If you can get through assembly and properly apply super glue where needed, they look great on display.

I've had really good luck with this stuff.

You get lots of control over what comes out where, and the design of the bottle + cap means you can use it lots more than once. I've used my bottle on several different occasions over several months without issues.

To elaborate, you pinch the little blue side handles to control the flow of glue. The top screw down in a way that seals nicely.

I feel like most of the super glue gels are coming in these ridiculously oversized plastic cases these days. I originally thought that gel manufacturers did some bad market research and assumed that we were all Parkinson’s sufferers, trying to shakily reassemble our broken, hand-glazed tea cups and needed something substantial to hold onto. But after seeing this, I now understand that the gel industry is a scam.

Check out these other ridiculously-large cases containing very little product:

• https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Ultra-Control-4-Gram-1363589/dp/B003Y49R7G/
• https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Precision-Applicator-Ounces-AD125/dp/B007XAAE1A/
• https://www.amazon.com/Krazy-Glue-KG49048MR-Maximum-Clear/dp/B0765D7BR4/

(Loctite and Scotch actually seems to be the worst offenders with the largest variety of oversized bottles or smallest quantities. Unfortunate, because they used to be trustworthy brands)

I honestly have no clue about the price difference locally because the small tube is not even sold here in the United States. The "fancy" container is $5.99 USD on Amazon. I found a company in the UK that sells the small tube for £2.53 GBP ($3.58 USD). The small tube is labelled in English on the front, but the warning and contact info on back are only in Italian and Greek.

This is what was recommended: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y49R7G

I've only had to use it a couple of times, but seems to have held up after a few months of posing. If you have to use it, wear gloves.

What problems have you had with it? I’ve used these two: https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Ultra-Control-4-Gram-1363589/dp/B003Y49R7G and https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Super-Glue-Gram-Clear/dp/B00OAAUAX8 . Your hardscape needs to be dry (and your plants, if possible). Dab a tiny bit of glue on the rock/wood. I wear a glove on my other hand and hold the plant roots or moss onto the hardscape (wait 10-15 seconds while pressing) and give the glue about 10 minutes to dry. You can mist with water after the glue dries to help your plants out. Should be safe for submerging in water soon after. I usually wait about an hour while misting my plant before filling the whole tank to give the glue more time to dry. Moss is a bit trickier to glue because it’s so moist, so I typically use a little glue and then wrap with cotton thread to keep it really secure and more flush with the wood. Glue can be useful in attaching the thread to the hardscape. It can be annoying and time consuming, but worth it! I have some pictures on my page of plants I’ve glued and tied to hardscape :)

I have had spotty luck with superglue for plastic to other surfaces.

But for plastic to plastic I love using this. https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Ultra-Control-4-Gram-1363589/dp/B003Y49R7G

https://www.amazon.ca/Loctite-Ultra-Control-4-Gram-1363589/dp/B003Y49R7G - Is this the one?

Loctite Ultra Gel Control Super Glue 4-Gram (1363589) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y49R7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MFifDb0HQWKN7

I use this stuff -- its perfect. Has a really narrow tip so you can get glue in the sockets, and it doesn't drip/run.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Ultra-Control-4-Gram-1363589/dp/B003Y49R7G/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?hvadid=176369327477&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9019699&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=2263978452012469257&hvtargid=aud-646675773986%3Akwd-3949895385&keywords=loctite+control+gel&qid=1556204318&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

I'm using resin and the glue I'm using is (was) Loctite Ultra Gel Control
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Ultra-Control-4-Gram-1363589/dp/B003Y49R7G/ref=sr_1_6?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1532530544&sr=1-6&keywords=super+glue

But I'll take a look at Testors and see if that works. Thanks for pointing me in a good direction. Is this the stuff? https://store.flitetest.com/testors-liquid-plastic-cement-1oz-tes3502xt/p524859?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7pPDv8G63AIVRV9-Ch2rVgafEAQYBCABEgLjrfD_BwE

Try getting Gel Superglue (like this). Apply a decent dob in the joints, then plop the arms in there and hold for 15 seconds. You can still move them a tad after, but they won't fall out. Let them set for a few minutes before putting any large amount of tension on them and you should be golden.

Second option is to use an accelerator, like this. Apply glue to the joint, then spray/dip the arm ball in kicker, and put it into the joint. This will set very quickly. It's also exothermic, so if you get glue on your hands and don't notice, then get kicker on there, it can be fairly painful.

Last, a helping-hands can be quite useful if you have it laying around. I use this one for electronics, and it works pretty well holding awkward model parts for letting glue set.

I get pops with broken legs , arms etc every once in a while. I just glue it.

Loctite Ultra Gel Control Super Glue 4-Gram

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y49R7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_sKRTUtrN84TtD

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Y49R7G?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages02

What I use, the glue doesn't run at all and stays in place very well.

Use some anti blur gel on your lenses and rub some in your eyes. My friend recommended some and it didn't work for me , I fact it blinded me, Buuuut it might just work for you. Link to product: https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Ultra-Control-4-Gram-1363589/dp/B003Y49R7G

*typed using microsoft talk to text

/s