I am looking to install this to interrupt the fuel pump 12 power. The remote relay has 12v in and 12v out. There is no ground running to the fuel pump cutoff switch, it only interrupts the 12v incase of an impact.
Do I need to wire both grounds to the fuse box ground? My goal is t remotely latch the fuel pump once the ignition is on. How should the above picture be wired?
Looks really nice. I've been debating on where to place a switch that's out of the way but easy to reach, and this seems like it would work well.
Is there a reason you tapped the heated seat fuse rather than just connecting the switch and an in-line fuse on the normal NPP circuit? I thought tapping the seat fuse was to prevent the wireless receiver on the M2W kit from draining battery?
Also, if anyone reading this has plans to get a M2W kit, save yourself some cash and buy this instead. The "official" kits just add a bit of wire, a spade connector, and a fuse tap.
Item | Current | Lowest | Reviews |
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Logisys RM02 12V 15AMP Relay Kit with Two Remote… | $19.98 | $19.98 | 4.5/5.0 |
^Item Info | Bot Info | Trigger
Logisys RM02 12V 15AMP Relay Kit with Two Remote Controls https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EQB8O7K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2826P0FWR27BW35EG524?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
1) My first estimate actually was 6 + 6 + half of 6, but that seemed too easy. If 6 is drastic, what would you estimate the actual amps would be? I don't really have any frame of reference, so is 14A quite a lot? I wouldn't have expected LED's to take a ton of energy. Is amperage the sole measurement that affects wire gauge? 22ga says it's rated to 300 volts.
2) Assuming I don't intend to ever take this down/apart (and I'm totally fine cutting the wires and desoldering if I do) what are the benefits of crimping that apply to me? It looks like I'll need to buy these crimps and a crimping tool as well to go that route?
3) I may not be using entirely the right words to search for an alternative remote, as it seems a bit tougher to find something similar in 15 amps. -This- appears to use RF instead, and be intended for boats and cars, so I'm not sure if it's relevant. If I got something like that would I simply wired the two neutrals and the two hots together to a connector and use a 12v/15A DC power supply/adapter? I'm not absolutely dead set on the remote control either, so failing all that, would something like -this- just sneak in along the hot or neutral wires?