What is Reddit's opinion of Lost ocean 25 pcs Alligator Clip Stick for Airbrush Hobby Model Parts?

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Thank you for the quick reply. I'll just go ahead and get a mix of that, do you think something like Bluecell Alligator clips would be more than enough? Or would those bite too hard on the plastic?

I use these for topcoating,

https://www.amazon.com/Bluecell-Alligator-Stick-Airbrush-Hobby/dp/B007ZYX1GO/ref=pd_sim_21_29?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TYRGEP0MWPTD0JZGKCKR

just clip one end to the part(arm, head, leg) and stick the other end in styrofoam or cardboard.

Keep the spray about a foot or so away and just wave it back and forth

These can be bought on amazon us I tried amazon.de but I know only a few words in german and alligator clips were not there.

They're just shishkabob skewers with alligator clips on them, would cost about 5$ to make 30.

This is by no means what you have to buy to get started, but these are the things that make it much easier to build, and give you the confidence to take your skills to the next level.

Tools:

• X-Acto knife with extra blades
• Really good pair of tweezers. Seriously, a $20 pair of fine-point titanium tweezers makes a world of difference when handling parts. I got mine from a jewelry supply store.
• Helping hands type vise
• Small bamboo skewers, popsicle sticks, various grocery store items make it easier to hold parts when painting. Alligator clips on sticks can be bought or made.
• The Tamiya Spray-Work Painting Stand Set is awesome.
• Rubber bands, small spring clamps
• Sandpaper or sanding sticks in varying grits, starting at 600.
  
• Assortment of glues - Testor's "model master" with the needle tip works much better than the squeeze tubes. White glue for clear parts, superglue for photo-etch and other non-plastic.
• Brushes - a variety pack is fine for getting started, you'll basically want extra fine, fine, and regular. As you get better, brushes will become a personal choice. Also, get some disposable mixing cups or use a plastic watercolor palette to thin your bottle paints.
• Paints - the Testor's model car starter sets will give you basic colors in enamel; these are great for everything small; not the body or chassis. For those, you'll want to spray, either with cans or an airbrush. There are also specialty paints like Alclad II for simulating metal finishes. Testor's Model Master has a factory color matching series, so you can get Hemi Orange, Plum Crazy, etc. As you gain experience, you might want to consider using acrylics; they're extremely popular with the pro modelmakers who do tanks, planes, etc. Oh, and don't forget thinner. You'll need it for not only thinning paints, but cleaning brushes and mistakes as well.

Pitfalls:

• WAIT FOR THE GLUE TO DRY! Nothing ruins an assembly like handling it before the glue is fully dry. If you're the impatient type like me, then plan three or four subassemblies in advance, so you have something to do while stuff dries.
• The less you mess with something, the better it comes out. Seriously, avoid the temptation to nudge that piece a hair before the glue dries. It'll just go too far and smear glue everywhere. The "zen" goal of modeling is to futz with it as little as possible.
• When you paint with brushes, thin your bottle paints. It takes practice to determine how much based on the surface, desired effect, etc. If you have a junk model or bargain bin kit you don't care about, use that for testing.
• When you paint with spray cans, start 8-10 inches away, start and finish your passes off the model, and apply thin coats until it just starts to shine, then stop. The paint will flatten and look better as it cures, but if you spray more coats after the surface is covered, you'll get runs and bumps.
• Paint does best in a cool, dry, dust-free environment. Get an $89 paint booth if you can afford it, or make one out of tupperware containers and a fan. Just be sure to use brushless fans only; paint fumes are highly flammable.

A few more thoughts:

The level of satisfaction you receive from this hobby is proportional to what you put into it. From, "Hey, look what I did over the weekend" to First Place at the Nationals, there's a wide variety of talents and skills, and all of them can make you sit back and smile (or throw it against the wall!) Be happy with your creations, and don't let anyone tell you they suck, unless you're at a master's/competitive level.

As you learn, decide what you want to improve on. Paint? Removing seams and manufacturing marks? Ultra-realistic details? It's all up to you. Hell, I could go on for another 3 paragraphs just on surface prep and sanding.

Don't mean to overwhelm, just had the time to type out a bunch to help a new guy.

Oh, the best advice I ever heard: When you finish your model, set aside time and reflect. Put on some music, grab a coke or a beer, put the finished model in front of you and give it a good gawking while thinking about the build. Admire your successes, admit your failures, and plan for the next one.

These are the two websites where I spend most of my modeling money:

Jack's Model Roundup - Great guy, excellent service, deep inventory.

Scale Model Hobbyist - Great selection, seem to always have stuff in stock that's sold out elsewhere.

There are many more out there, and as you learn more, you'll find Amazon a decent source as well.