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Add a dimmer switch, and she can control how powerul the vibrations are.
Get a dimmer plug and you can get it exactly how you want.
LED doesn't produce heat, so that's part of the problem. When people say "halogen floods" they're talking about tungsten-filament bulbs.
Try reducing the wattage of the incandescent. Get a dimmer switch or dimming thermostat like Herpstat, that way you can dial in the output of the bulb to reach a certain temperature. (making sure that both the lamp and bulb are dimmable, it will say so on the box).
Make sure the basking zone is large enough to fully bathe the beardie in evenly distributed heat. This is why floodlights are recommended over spotlights, floods produce a wider beam while spots produce a narrower one. You may also consider using two smaller wattage floods side by side, to produce a larger more even basking zone if you need it.
I've been using Phillips EcoVantage PAR38 dimmable floods for awhile now and they create a good basking zone and have been lasting me at least 4 months, even when dimmed.
Yeah gotta say the Hitachi Magic Wand will make any woman orgasm. Also buy a lamp dimmer off of Amazon. I bought an official Hitachi for my wife and a dimmer for when the Wand gets too potent(after her first orgasm her clit becomes too sensitive). This is the one I ordered for her.
Lutron TT-300H-WH Electronics Plug-In Lamp Dimmer, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_9v66wbWBNFGV0
The Wand has become her quickie solo tool, she uses it through her clothes when the kids are home and she needs a quick orgasm.
I bought a rheostat off of amazon. Allows me to turn the heat down right to where it needs to be to run consistently. Not this one but similar. switch
You need a dimming thermostat with overhead heating. The one you're using is an on/off thermostat (that could potentially blow the bulb). How high up is the distance from the lamp to the basking area?
If you can't get a hold of a dimming thermostat, you can also use a manual dimmer switch. You'd just have to keep an eye on the temps and adjust it accordingly. Raising the lamp with a lamp stand might also help cool things down.
That's an issue. And to answer the question, yes, that's too hot. Ideally, you want the basking area under the lamp to be in the 90-100 range. If you can't afford a dimming thermostat at the moment, you can get a dimmer switch like this one to adjust the heat lamp. What kind of bulb are you using? What are the temperatures throughout the rest of the enclosure?
A dimmer is usually used in conjunction with a thermostat to help keep the bulb with in the proper range, as halogens do tend to get hotter then a normal bulb, mine at ~75% intensity keeps the basking spot for my lizards roughly 35-37c temps. I use a halogen but my thermostat didn’t allow for a hook up. I ended up getting something similar to this dimmer switch to manually adjust the intensity of it myself. Works great!
Hopefully this helps a bit :)
It's the same way for me, honestly. My doctor thinks it's a combination of the ssri and dysphoria. I have been on various SSRIs for years without issue though, so I don't know, I think a lot of it is mental for me. In my case the dimmer helps a lot. I found one pretty cheap on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_JhDDub1BHQ664
For a beardie, you don't need anything heavy duty since you're looking to go for ~100-105 for the hotspot. I buy the 39watt floods from home depot (lowes sells them too), about 4-6$ a pop. Always keep a spare on hand. Then just grab a dimmer because they are dimmable and you should be able to get the perfect temperature for your beardie 👍
The same product listing on Amazon (including the exact same number of reviews) can not be sold by Amazon directly, or have multiple sellers and when you add it to your cart it automatically picks the seller with the lowest price, even if it's not Amazon and the alternate seller has relatively poor seller reviews. When buying from Amazon either make sure it says "Ships and sold by Amazon.com" just under where it says "In Stock" in green text, or if it's a 3rd party seller that you read that seller's reviews. Most relatively expensive products should have a serial number which you can try to verify with the manufacturer.
The dial you saw on the other model allows you to decrease the power to the device, which in turn decreases how often it sends a vibration. Basically the magic wand fills a capacitor, and when it's full it releases that energy into a motor which causes the vibration. If you feed it less power, it vibrates less often, but the power switch on the device only has two settings, both of which are fairly intense.
If you want to try this, the good news is you don't need the other model which has the dimmer/dial built in. You can buy this and plug it in between the wand and the wall socket; you'll then be able to have continuously variable frequency of vibration, but it doesn't affect the intensity of each vibration.
Check out lamp dimmer switches:
Atable light slide dimmer will allow for best control over the heat source so you can best set seasonal temps for basking and digestion self regulation. :)
Two suggestions: 1. Try reducing the vibration level with a lamp dimmer. The dimmer basically slows down (or speeds up) the magic wand motor. 2. If it still doesn't work for her, you can sell or give away for the price of shipping on /r/usedsextoys .
I have a simple light dimmer like this. You daisy-chain the magic wand onto it, and the dimmer dial lets you scale how much power is available to the magic wand. It works quite well for finding that "just right" setting.
Not sure how it compares to the plus model since I've never used one.
If you can't afford a thermostat (they can be expensive) a dimming switch like this can help you turn down the output of your bulb and lower the temp.
You can try a lower watt bulb, but you could also buy a plug-in dimmer like this to control the output. And yep! No heat overnight is fine as long as your room doesn't get below like 65 degrees. I've never had heat on at night (usually drops to around 70) and mine has had no issues with digestion.
I use 2 bricks from Home Depot and a cheese slate from Amazon for a basking spot for my dragons. You could lay a large slate or a layer of bricks underneath to stack that on and potentially get it higher. Mounting the lamp inside is not hard though. I used metal wire to do it with mine and it holds really well and is thin enough to string through the lamp and mesh.
I’ve used Zoomed Repti basking bulbs and halogen flood lights Par38 90w. Halogen flood lights are cheaper and last a year vs needing to be changed every 3-4M. Here’s a link to a dimmer. You can also find them at Home Depot or Lowes or stores like that.
Lutron Credenza Plug-In Dimmer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYEF6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Your dragon needs a linear UVB light, not a coil UVB. They need a spread of UVB, not it concentrated in one area. Reptisun T5 HO 10.0 or Arcadia T5 HO 12% are best and trusted brands. It needs to span 1/2-3/4 the enclosure and be placed behind or in front of the basking lamp so they get both while basking. Might have to switch to a single dome so they fit next to each other.
Here’s a link for a dimmer! Lutron Credenza Plug-In Dimmer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYEF6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Lutron Credenza Plug-In Dimmer for Halogen and Incandescent Bulbs, TT-300H-WH, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PFJQE8WCKAGE0Y9KA2QQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is very similar to mine, I can’t recall the exact brand, but it’s one like this. It has a chord and slider on it. If you have a Menards near you that’s where I got mine. A air temperature of 100 isn’t exactly ideal, but as long as your cool side is cool they know when they’re hot so they’ll retreat to the cool side!
I have this one and it works great. I have a whole powerstrip for 4 17" lamps on the dimmer, so it dims all 4
It’s to hot. Get a dimmer plug for it and you can dial in the temp to get your flow on!
Here is the one that worked great for me
Lutron Credenza Plug-In Dimmer for Halogen and Incandescent Bulbs, TT-300H-WH, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2D8F6V2KRJNWMYZP618C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
my fellow witch, allow me to blow your mind: i have a (corded dimmer switch)[https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_THBMQTW7NKA3XWMSQSZX] which allows my partner to control the intensity like a little remote. it is THE best hahahaha.
Get one of these remote dimmer switches to plug it in to. Gives you complete control. I recommend the wand on low, dimmer at about 75%.
Lutron Credenza Plug-In Dimmer for Halogen and Incandescent Bulbs, TT-300H-WH, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_F13N315JJMQFMPABXVED?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Manual dimmers you can get on Amazon, at hardware stores, etc. Here's an example: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Credenza-Halogen-Incandescent-TT-300H-WH/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=25BX6U862EKO8&keywords=dimmer+plug&qid=1637707536&sprefix=dimmer+plug%2Caps%2C233&sr=8-3
Dimming thermostats are pricier. I have a Herpstat and they're fantastic! I ordered it online.
If you can't get an automatic dimmer, then a manual dimmer will work in a pinch as a temporary solution. You need to be able to adjust the temperature as needed, unless your household temps remain a constant. There are also dome fixtures that have a dimmer switch built in.
plug in dimmer switch
Basically you plug your basking light plug into it and it allows you to increase or decrease the wattage going to the bulb to increase or decease the intensity of the light being emitted. Hope that made sense
This is the type of dimmer I use if you are curious. They can be found at pretty much any hardware store. Just be sure to monitor with a temp gun as well
I do like the Thrive brand lamps, but they don't have dimmers built in. If you have a Lowes, home depot or even Walmart nearby they might have manual dimmers that you could use. As an example.
A dual fixture or a dimmer? I don't use dual bulbs so I don't know about those. If you want a dimming thermostat, Herpstats are great. If you want a manual dimming switch, something like this would work.
I love my Herpstat and have two different models. Both work great.
If money is an issue and you have nothing else, you can also use a dimmer switch. This isn't the best option, but can work in a pinch. You will need to be able to monitor the surface temperature and adjust as needed.
You don't want a thermostat on a basking bulb- the constant on and off would disrupt the animal. Use a dimmer to fine tune the temperature of the basking spot and leave it. They are quite cheap- here's one I use for $13.. On and off is done via a timer.
The only thing I have on a thermostat is my ceramic heat emitter because my home is very cold in the winter. I have it come on only if my indoor temperatures get below 60ºF.
Sorry I know it was outside of the question. I was recommending adding a dimmer in-line to the wand you have (I tried posting a link but it doesn’t show, maybe check the “view source” on my previous post), to see where you’d like to go and give you the option of lower speeds as well. The switch I bought (Lutron Credenza Plug-In Dimmer for Halogen and Incandescent Bulbs, TT-300H-WH, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_FWKJKN809B1GGAV285V5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) was like $12 and ads significant value to any plug-in device in my opinion.
Sounds like you should look into the doxy though...
I’ve had the wand for years and it’s become absolutely my #1 go-to device. The lower setting is close to perfect, it never needs batteries or to charge and since I don’t use it directly on skin I don’t need to clean it much, and like the texture of the head. Also recently discovered it also makes an excellent actual massager so bonus points for that! All of that is to say that other wands seem like a lot more money for questionable returns (I don’t think I’d like battery powered or metal handle or silicone head more and probably would like them less).
I have however thoroughly enjoyed having a dimmer to plug it into, and this may help you make a decision on where to go from here? Extra bonus the dimmer makes Christmas style or outdoor lights look really good, and you can set the exact mood you may want anytime.
Lutron Credenza Plug-In Dimmer for Halogen and Incandescent Bulbs, TT-300H-WH, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_LKZ8FbJKB1935?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Use this fora lamp with an incandescent bulb.
I’m sure you could find one for LED bulbs as well
If ALL you are looking for is to be able to add dimmer ability to a lamp and don’t need any true smart features, you could use a product like this on Amazon. I have one of these hooked up for my son’s desk light.
Get yourselfone of these
I also second the silicone heads. I've got one with a sharkfin type fan coming off of it that is really nice.
Truthfully I'm over my Hitachi. Womanizer makes a much better version.
Lava Lamps are still new to me, so I could be wrong, but I think it may be just a little bit too hot. As the temporary solution you could try running it without the metal cap on top. You make want to buy a dimmer cord so you can turn the bulb down a little bit.
Let's get crazy, then. Get a dimmer like this one, an extension chord, and a small lamp. Put the lamp in the room and the dimmer outside the room. When you want to enter, use the dimmer to slowly turn the lamp on, so that he notices the light very gently rather than in a big burst.
I’m starting to see that 99% of the information I find just comes from experienced owners lol. I have one more question if that’s ok. Would a couple of these work for the ceramic heat bulb, and heat lamp? I still don’t understand all the lighting terminology so I have no idea what I’m doing lol.
This is the Lutron table top dimmer I thought you meant. I didn’t know they had one in the Caseta product line. (My wife’s store was a Lutron dealer for 35 years, but it was before Caseta was invented.).
It’s technically against code to Dim an outlet, but many people do. The problem comes when someone (say a contractor or guest) decides to use it for something over the rating of the dimmer. On the other hand I’ve mounted high single outlets (high like above normal reach) and clearly labeled them “300 watt lighting only” (Or whatever the Max wattage is), technically that not code (at least in the USA) but it’s not a perfect world, and it doesn’t create a dangerous situation— worst case someone burns out the dimmer.
This is very well lit and a beautiful pic but FYI if you want an easy/cheap thing that will help adjust lighting I might suggest getting a plug in dimmer. It'll make any incandescent (old school) lightbulb dimmable so you can get the lighting just right. It might work with some of the dimmable LEDs but I don't know. They're also just nice around the house if there's a light you want to be able to dim, great in TV/dining/bed rooms
Lutron Credenza Plug-In Dimmer for Halogen and Incandescent Bulbs, TT-300H-WH, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_gE0gFbA04D66D
I use this, plus I use non led flood lights. My recommendation for a 1 to 2 year old is anywhere from 90 to 105. You'll know when it gets too hot for them if they stay away from the basking area.
Yeah it can be pretty brutal if you're not prepared. Something like this is what you want but I'd do some research personally to find one that works well with the Hitachi. The one I have for example doesn't work perfectly (the dimming does weird things which I think has to do with the vibration/current frequency but I digress) but does the job well enough so it's not the end of the world.
You can also buy the kind of cord you use for dimming lamps, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Credenza-Halogen-Incandescent-TT-300H-WH/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521051566&sr=8-3&keywords=dimmer+cord.
I use one with mine and it was a cheap fix for the wand.
Tissue paper? Works really good!
You can also get light dimmer switches to adjust the light better and get some awesome results.
Get this for the CHE and place it more in the middle above the tank to better control ambient than just spot heating. Let the UTH control hot side belly heat
This is lamp dimmer that can limit the electricity to the CHE. You can also find them at home depot or Lowes.
I use the word Edison for incandescent lights too! Anyway, simple dimmers work great on those. Would this do? https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-TT-300H-WH-Electronics-Plug-Dimmer/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=sr_1_3?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1497088085&sr=1-3&keywords=dimmer+switch
You can tape it down, but be sure you use a tape that isn't too sticky. If the tape comes up for any reason, you don't want it to create a hazardous sticky trap for your gecko. I've never done it, but another user mentioned hot glue--that sounds like a pretty good idea!
If the temperature in your room is constant to within a few degrees, you could use a lamp dimmer instead of a thermostat. Set the dimmer fairly low, and use a temp gun to measure the floor temp as you increase the dimmer setting. You'll want to verify the temps regularly for the first few days, and periodically thereafter.
Both methods have pros and cons. The dimmer requires you to periodically check the temperature as your room temps change, or as your heat mat ages. The thermostat doesn't require much maintenence, but a dislodged probe can create unsafe temperatures for your animal.
I have some geckos on dimmers, and some on thermostats. It's great that you're aware of the potential problems.
I just got one in the mail this weekend to build a second stir plate.
Try using the dimmer switch. I have a lamp dimmer and it works great for controlling fan speed. This is the one I use.
I don't know about them breaking - I've never had any problems with that - but regarding the pads being too hot, I always have to use a rheostat. A rheostat limits the electricity to the pad and thus, the heat output. You plug the heat pad into the rheostat, then adjust the slider, check the temps after an hour, adjust, repeat until you have the desired temp. I use this one - I buy it for a comparable price at Home Depot.
Put a double safety on that thermostat if you go with the budget one, buy a dimmer switch (something like this https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-TT-300H-WH-Electronics-Plug-Dimmer/dp/B0000BYEF6) the Hydrofarm thermostat is an on/off. Meaning it turns on when it his the lower temp limit and off when it hits the top, the lack of safety features means it can get stuck on (rarely heard of happening but it can) the dimmer limits how hot your pad can get.
What about one of these? No wiring necessary and gives you dimmable control.
I completely disagree. As a matter of fact it has been recommended by many others before me all the time due to the high speeds of the 2 speed Hitachi.
This is very similar to what I have seen recommended over and over.
I am sure its not GREAT on the unit, but it beats the HELL out of paying 60 bux for it and leaving it to sit in a nightstand unused.
Thank you for your expertise! I'm somewhat familiar with splicing wires so I'm going to give that a shot. I have a feeling this might be a dimmable lamp so would I need something like this to control the light?
I'm not sure how it would work with the remote, but I used to have my xmas lights hooked up to a dimmer switch (like this) which allowed you to create some different light intensities.
I'll let you know tomorrow...giving one to the wife for an early Christmas present. I also got her this, which will make the intensity much more variable than just high and really freaking high.
Ideally, overhead heat should be regulated with a dimming thermostat. If you can't afford or find one, a manual dimmer can work, but you'd need to monitor the surface temperature of their basking area and the air temp across the enclosure a little more diligently.
Leos need overhead heat, but they do need to be regulated. If you can't afford a dimming thermostat, a dimmer switch can work as a temporary solution. You'll need to use a heat reader to make sure the temperatures are correct. If you're using quality lamps and fixtures, the risk of fire should be low, especially if you're regulating the output.
Could you get a dimmer in the mean time? That's what I used until my dimming thermostat came. You just need to closely monitor the temperature with a heat reader. A cheap heat lamp holder might also help if you're worried about the distance. This stuff is also good to have as a backup for emergencies and such anyway, so it would be worth having regardless.
You should only need to use one heat source, yes. I prefer the deep heat projectors because they don't emit any light, so you can use them at night if you need to. Ideally you'll want to use a dimming thermostat (such as a Herpstat), but if money is tight you can use a dimmer switch or a dome that has a built in dimmer. You'd just need to monitor the surface temperature of the basking area until you hit the right temperatures.
Dome with built in dimmer:
I have dimmers on all my heat lamps and havent had an issue yet with any type of failure. These are the dimmers I use for mine.
This is the one I got...
I was planning on using this https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Credenza-Halogen-Incandescent-TT-300H-WH/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=sr_1_5?crid=16XUDCHZUTOI&keywords=lamp+dimmer&qid=1670444949&sprefix=lamp+dimmer%2Caps%2C126&sr=8-5
Most lamps are just a light bulb that heats up the bottle and shines up through it. You will want to find out what type of bulb your lamp has and make sure to get the right kind of dimmer, but this is a fairly generic option -
The lamps are usually made to work best with the bulb running at full power, dimming may change the temperature in your bottle and make it not function as expected. You should check with the manufacturer to see if they recommend a particular dimmer for your lamp.
The video link will provide a better detail.
Essentially a rotary dial to control the brightness of the light as well as heat. If you're not good with DIYs (Do It Yourself). You can buy plug and play dimmers like this one on Amazon.
If you're headed to the pet store, go to Petco
(they sell cheaper tanks than PetSmart who typically only sell the aquarium kit) and get a 20 gallon long if it's the most you can afford but the bigger the better, a 75 gallon tank isn't too big but 20 is the smallest tank that allows for a proper heat gradient. This is a 30 inch by 12 inch glass cage, and also grab the matching screen lid and screen clips. You must have the screen clips to prevent escape!
THIS IS NOT THE FINAL ENCLOSURE, sorry for the caps but your ball python will outgrow a 20 long in a year if it's a baby now, but a year is a long time to plan and save money while getting to know your new friend! On the other hand if you buy a 75 or bigger now we on this sub will help you figure out the best way to keep the python happy in that space.
Also, grab the "Forest Floor" substrate, a 10 quart bag might cut it but I'd get the 24 quart bag, and a second hide to go on the cool side of the enclosure.
Now, you need a few things that aren't at the pet store, the first is a laser infrared thermometer. This is one of the single most useful tools for a new snakekeeper and may save your pet snake. It's 20-30 dollars at hardware stores. You are going to use this thermometer to adjust the wattage of your heat light and or the dimmer you use to control it.
The second thing to grab at the hardware store is something like
You are going to cut this mat to size to cover 95% of the screen lid of your tank. You can cut it to size with scissors and cut a hole for the light dome etc, and it will keep the humid air created by the substrate from drying out through the open screen.
The last thing you need for now is a way to control the heat. You have opted for a heat light, and one of the easiest ways to control a halogen heat light is this thing
Use the laser thermometer to check the temp on top of the snakes hide and on the substrate under the hide, and dial in the heat with the dimmer. Do this before your snake goes in the enclosure and make sure to keep an eye on the temps for a few hours as you dial it in as the hide will soak in some heat and the substrate will cool down through evaporation at first which will confuse things. Watch the temps all the time!
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This is the model I've used in the past.
Yup, this is the one we have - has worked perfectly for 11 years now.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Credenza-Halogen-Incandescent-TT-300H-WH/dp/B0000BYEF6/
Excellent! That’s what I have as well 😉
With the Reptisun 10.0 you want the distance from the UV hood to your dragon’s back between 12” - 14” (this is with your hood inside the enclosure/hanging from the ceiling). This will give your dragon UVI (UV index) levels ranging from 3.8 - 4.7. The goal is the have a UVI range of 3.0 - 5.0.
I used heat/UV resistant zip ties.. I took two of them and made one long one.. so six zip ties to make three long ones. Then I wrapped the zip ties around the hood and in between the steel bars and mesh screen ceiling.
Here is my enclosure so you have a better idea and here is a close up of the inside.
Also, here is an illustration showing you a few ways you can set up your ‘basking zone’.
As for basking bulbs.. I use a 150W day-white bulb in a dome that has a dimming dial. Not sure if your dome has that or just an on/off switch. If you don’t have a dimming dome, you can buy a cord that has a dimmer switch on it, to plug your dome into.. it converts an on/off dome into a dimming dome. Here’s an example of a dimming cord. 😉
Yes, either try a lower wattage bulb, or use a dimmer like this to dial in the correct temperature.
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Sure. You could technically add a plug at the end and use it that way, but you'd be better off with an inline dimmer like this https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Credenza-Halogen-Incandescent-TT-300H-WH/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=asc_df_B0000BYEF6 for $12.
Would this work?
Lutron Credenza Plug-In Dimmer for Halogen and Incandescent Bulbs, TT-300H-WH, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MS0RY5F08GDTZCMJ1CAR
100w should be good for a 40 gallon. Ideally, you want to regulate the overhead heat with a dimming thermostat, but a manual dimmer will work too (you'll just have to closely monitor the temperatures to make sure they're optimal).
Exo Terra also produces a simpler, cheaper model of a dimming thermostat that you can get from vendors online.
Get a dimmer switch to help lower your basking temp. Unless your fixture has a knob. dimmer
No, you definitely don't want to use an on/off with a bulb or dhp (It's like switching a light bulb off and on repeatedly. It'll blow.). You can use a dimmer switch instead (or a lamp with a built in dimmer), you just have to check the temperature and adjust it as needed. This should hold you over until you can get a proper thermostat.
Pangea Reptiles sells Herpstat and VE thermostats. If you can't get those, then a dimmer switch is the next best thing, but you'll need to monitor the basking area temperature with the infrared heat reader and adjust it manually, as needed.
I've been using this Lutron for years without any issues.
Over heating will have lots of tiny droplets and most of the lava stuck at the top. Like in the far right picture in this link.
It's easy to fix over heating with a simple dimmer like this.
That's a tricky shot, even in still photography with decent equipment.
I'd recommend looking into a cord with a dimmer on it (similar to a wall light switch). Decrease its intensity - you can see some detail - but by dimming it, your webcam's (I don't know what you have) resolution might better be able to handle it and see 85-90% if not all of it.
Honestly, the light "blowout" that you currently have would probably happen with an with interchangeable lenses like the Canon M200 or Sony equivalent. If you're able to turn down the brightness this might be your cheapest option.
I would at least read this (and other articles like it to get a better understanding of how to light yourself). I do still photography, but the same techniques apply to video.
Short story: You want your ring or "Key" light to start as bright and as close to you as possible. Then back off from there. Ring light is a good choice to start with. When it's time for you to look into further lighting, something like elgato's key lights may be better suited - not endorsing elgato itself - but they are good "soft" keylights. Look up soft vs. hard light if interested in what I mean by those terms.
Another big thing to take on your background figurine light is that Light follows the inverse square law.
This means that light from your ring light won't reach the opposite wall (it barely is already) so turning down your background light source a bit, won't be harmed by a close / bright key light.
Cord with dimmer
You can turn it off for a little while. Or, I use an adjustable dimmer to turn down the brightness. Something like this works well
Hey there. I hope I can help. I'm kinda a nerd about sex toys. First I have a great site for you to check out for toys. It's my favorite to check reviews and such. It's Smitten Kitten. It is a woman owned, feminist sex store. All their products are safe for the body, and they have all kinds of things. As far as prostrate massages go I would try this. It's a toy from Aneros designed just for the prostrate. That should help with working on the "hands free" orgasm. I would also look into getting a dildo as well. This is the one I'm looking at. Yes it is expensive, but it is really fun and really well made. As far as the Magic Wand goes, as some have said it is amazing, and I agree. For me, I do use it on my penis, but like it is a very awesome clit. It is really fun. I would approach it from that direction because of your dysphoria. Also as ImKira recommends, having panties on could help with the dysphoria, but it will also cut the intensity back. One of the main compalaints of the Magic Wand is that it has two settings, "Oh my god" and "Time to take a wall out." A inline dimmer switch can help with that. I love that on Amazon that the dimmer is listed as bought together with the Magic Wand. Again I hope this helps.
You can get a higher wattage basking light and put it on a dimmer for easy adjusting.
You can get a second basking light.
Or you can raise the level of the basking surface closer to the light.
I have two basking lights- one is enough in summer but when it is really cold I need both. They are each on one of these dimmers.
We don't generally use CHEs for daytime warmth- you want your bright white light to do that.
But may of us have them for night time use and put them on a thermostat so they click on and off as needed to maintain the correct temperature.
I use this thermostat set at 60ºF so it comes on only if the enclosure gets too cold overnight.
Get a dimmer switch. I use this one with my heat pad:
They make electric heaters for burning resins. Here is an example of a popular one; but I use a Bakhoor Burner that I connect a dimmer switch to. They sell ones with the switch but I find buying it separately I get a higher quality switch. I cover the inside with aluminum-foil, preferably heavy duty, folded over so as not to get any resin into the unit (and change it out each time.) I recently picked this one up as well since it has a smaller dish, takes less heat/time to burn small amounts.
It's essentially a slider that allows you to limit power to the device hooked up to it. This dimmer would work well.
I use a standard buffing compound. Make sure the buffer has variable speed so you can slow it down and don't ruin anything. If it doesn't you can get a slider switch like this to adjust the speed of the grinder. Also, make sure you're not trying to buff DVDs in blistering heat. You'll melt the discs. Don't buff Blu-Rays at all.
Here's my grinder I got it on clearance from Menards. It doesn't have variable speed so I use one of the above mentioned slider switch.
I can't really recommend any specific wheels or compounds as I bought mine YEARS ago and I don't remember anything about them. Make sure the hole of the wheel will fit on your grinder though... one of mine didn't really fit and I had to force it.
On mine I use the right wheel for big scratches and then go to the left one to shine it up. I won't pretend it works every time... but it really does make a difference and you should be able to find everything for $40-$100. Which is FAR less than many other buffing options. I've not had to replace ANY of the components I use and I've got a collection nearing 7,000. Though many of my used discs come pre-buffed from one of my favorite used video stores.
I literally went to Amazon and added the cheap versions of things I talked about and it came out to $74. You could do that, or search places like pawn shops, thrift stores (when they open), or even facebook marketplace for some of this stuff. I'll add links to the things I was looking at on Amazon, but can't guarantee they'll all fit together etc etc.
Couple videos I've found that show similar setups:
Hope this helps.
Looks pretty good. How big is the terrarium you're using? Also, I would suggest getting a temp gun (digital ir thermometer gun) and a dimmer for your basking bulb. Without a thermostat it's important to check basking temps every day with heat gun and adjust temps as necessary. A couple days of too hot or too cold can be very uncomfortable, if not dangerous, for your dragon. I'll link the items I'm talking about in an edit. Looks like you'll be a great and responsible dragon owner :)
Here is the dimmer:
Here is the ir thermometer:
There are tons of dimmers/rheostats you can choose from and lots of different ir temp guns if you prefer to shop around a bit, but those are the basic idea of what I'm suggesting.
You can also get a thermostat to do the temp regulation for you, but my dragon loves to knock the probe out of the way so this method has worked best for me so far.
Can also use one of these and adjust to your liking!
Lutron Credenza Plug-In Dimmer for Halogen and Incandescent Bulbs, TT-300H-WH, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_S29JCbWJR0EHB
Or for $10, you can buy one. https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Credenza-Halogen-Incandescent-TT-300H-WH/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=asc_df_B0000BYEF6/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167140365824&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4480774738403479206&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9021742&hvtargid=pla-274342005344&psc=1
I modified my popper with a lamp dimmer switch (popper power cable plugs into switch cable), and also got a PC fan and spliced it together with a 12v DC power supply cable.
I placed the popper on a cake cooling rack and mounted the modified PC fan underneath so it was blowing up through the bottom.
This setup got me an extra few minutes. The idea is to mark a few notches on the dimmer switch indicating levels of power. IIRC, I did three notches. 100%, 60%, 25% are some rough estimates. I never used my voltmeter to check. The goal is consistency. Since we're not working with sophisticated equipment here, I see no issue with roasting exactly the same way for each coffee. So I would start it at the first notch until it was yellow, then go up to the next one until just before 1Cs, then go up all the way. Also experimented with doing it reverse, but don't remember how it went as I soon got my Huky 500. Starting with your max heat setting is common in coffee roasting (not necessarily your machine's max heat setting, but the max heat setting you intend to use for that batch). You then work your way down to your lowest intended heat setting.
Kept using that dimmer switch with my Huky 500, until I needed something with more minute adjustments.
edit: Boy! That seems like ages ago! Now I roast on a 10kg machine.
This one works great.
Lutron TT-300H-WH Electronics Plug-In Lamp Dimmer, White
you can't put a dimmer switch to control and an outlet...if you are interested in complying to electrical codes....google can be your friend
We have that last one, and it is what we use the most right now. We also have the straight version, but she doesn't like that one as much. The other two you have listed will go onto my list.
For my list, here you go:
I would get this first:
This "looks" interesting:
And I keep eyeing this one:
Unrelated to your question, you said your girlfriend finds the Hitachi to be too much. You should consider getting her a simple light dimmer so that she can control the intensity.
To answer your question. The Njoy Pure Wand is great, I definitely recommend it. If you want something that vibrates instead, I strongly recommend Nexus Revo 2, but over $100. I also own a Tantus Leisure, which comes with a vibrator and it works great. Those are about $60.
it's designed to control lamps, but is useful for controlling speed of other uhm.. plug-in, motorized, devices... heh.
Use one of these for variable speed.
I highly recommend getting a lamp dimmer with the magic wand.
mhmm... not a cord, no... You're probably imagining a dimmer switch or something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Credenza-Halogen-Incandescent-TT-300H-WH/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=zg_bs_6291364011_2
That works by rapidly turning the power on and off like this: https://i.imgur.com/R0kP6Fv.png so that the lamp receives less energy and produce less light. That's how small DC motors are controlled as well (like in a PC fan) however that's probably not going to work with your pump since it relies on the circular waveform to made the motor spin.
You might be able to use a motor speed switch like you can get for fans. You might also be able to put a resistance in series with the pump to burn off some of the energy, but that can be tricky to get right. THe safest way would be with a light bulb, but I suspect you won't want to have a light on all the time either.
In googling I also found this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Suncourt-2-5-Amp-Variable-Speed-Fan-Control-with-Plug-in-Brown-VS200/203227224 it might actually work for you... not sure though
Turn it down with this thing: