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I built my own proofing box with a normal desk lamp (use a regular light bulb, not a fluorescent), a cardboard box, a power strip, and this cool programmable thermostat (I got it on Amazon for about $35)
You program the thermostat to the temperature you want, and plug the lamp into the outlet on the front. When the temperature dips below your target, it provides electricity to the lamp. The bulb heats the air up until it gets to your target, then shuts off the lamp. It maintains the temp this way for as long as you want!
Don't use a wood stove in an RV... Much too dangerous. If the propane heater is not vented outside, I'd recommend not using it either as you'll have a humidity problem.
I'd second using one or two electric heaters (we heat our 40 ft class-A with two small heaters...) I have external to the heater thermostats to control the temperature which works well:
There are other cheaper ones, but when I tried the cheap ones they didn't work as well as the LUX did.
Honestly, and this is going to go against the grain of this sub, but you should probably look for a dumber solution, like a temperature controlled plug
A good one will be underwritten, so if it fucks up and doesn't turn the space heater off, and it burns your house down, your insurance company can't weasel out of a claim
There's tons of timers and thermostats. No end of choices. Just make sure it supports enough amps to run your heater.
Another thought- doesn't the heater have a thermostat of its own? If you want to prevent it from running constantly that might be the answer. Set the thermostat on the heater to the max temp you want, then even if it has power it will shut off if that temp is reached.
You could also try something like this- it's more expensive, but it basically is a real thermostat. You can set times for weekdays and weekends and temperatures it should maintain. So it might keep the temp at like 55F (so the pipes don't freeze) all the time, then go to 65F weekday mornings or something.
Line voltage thermostats have gross analog controls (versus fine digital controls)
You could add an aftermarket digital/timer tstat to the electrical plug. Amazon search for it
The thermostats on space heaters are notoriously poor. It's also a limitation of the form factor -- a sensor on the heating unit simply can't function properly. What you need is a separate thermostat. Your cermaic heater will work fine with it.
You might consider getting a space heater of some kind. I would recommend something more than just and old coil heater if it's going to be in the house/bedroom, but at least some kind of electric heating system.
I have one of these:
That I could send you. I had a similar situation, but ended up never using it for my intended setup.
That way, when it gets too cold the outlet thermostat would kick on and turn on your small heater near the wineador.
Might do the trick.
I have one of each in my trailer. One that is ducted with a thermostat and one that has the blue/red knob which is a thermostat of sorts (not the most accurate obviously). It does work, but the fan keeps blowing of course. Once the area reaches the tripping point, the compressor kicks off and the fan just runs and runs until the area gets too warm and it kicks the compressor back on again.
I've always wondered about 120v thermostats like this one - [link]
Now you'd have to wire it in somehow (better yet, make it look good like it wasn't hodge-podged), but it would kick on the AC at a preset temperature, and kick it completely back off when it gets cool enough. It can carry 15 amps which is enough? (that's a question, not a statement)
Other than finding a way to vent the hot air out before having the AC go to work, I think your only option for cooling earlier is to turn on the AC sooner.
As far as your set point, if it's not turning off at temperature you may want to look into getting a temperature switch installed (similar to this) in order to make sure you're not freezing your baby in the middle of the night. Set your thermometer near the AC unit for a couple nights and see how low it gets below your set point. If it's never kicking off, either get a new AC or install a limit switch. You may want to consider a new AC anyway since they make significant improvements each year and tend to get more efficient and use less energy. A lot even have rebates associated with them as well.
You can get a power outlet "controller" with a built in thermostat to only turn your heater on when the temperature is too low:
This should help ensure that your heater is not on during hotter periods if you want to try it.
I've been using these a while, but I actually use the wine cooler type with the glass front. I would really recommend these, because you can get some wider models with a dishwasher sized footprint. These can fit a lot more in them. If you're using buckets instead of glass xarboys, that makes it even more ideal, because the glass front isn't an issue.
Another small note... you can use this temp controller by just running the power into the fridge and back out. It works really well. Since you're also running power in there, you can also get a small fan and throw it in there for better circulation. I was able to nail my temp control.
won't that blanket suffice? It says it has a thermostat?
Other than that use a line voltage thermostat and a heating pad? Should not take mush to keep it warm.
That is overkill - but would work. You could find a baseboard heat one at a rehab shop for 5 bucks.
There are also reptile heaters.
I got myself one of these to plug my old wall unit into. It helps a ton.
Any cheap heater with mechanical switches will do really.
Our local walmart is selling these for ~$13 and they'd do fine
I went with the Lux WIN100 to control ours instead of a true smart option as it was a more convenient off the shelf option than coordinating a smart switch with a temperature sensor.
FYI - this is the timer I have been using and it’s rated for 15 amps. I guessed at the timeframe surprisingly well... Amazon says I bought it in 2014.
Depends on how much you want to spend but a simple and easy route is a electric heater with a fan hooked to a thermostats like this
Check all the panels to see how well they are sealed and consider heat mates for under the pots to keep the roots from getting to cold. You can also put down normal mats to insulate the cold from the brick floor.
You might want to add a small second fan just to make sure you have a good circulation of air moving and don’t get any cold or hot spots.
Cooler (like for camping) for insulation--that forms the box.
Thermostat from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E7NYY8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Some short electrical cable, with plug, light fixture, and a 15w light bulb for heat source.
Attach the plug to the short electrical cable, and attach the cable to the light fixture, and screw in the lightbulb.
Use a flat extension cord to run power from the wall to the thermostat. Plug your lightbulb into the front of the thermostat, set the thermostat where you want it, put the whole thing into the cooler, and shut the top. If your basement is 62 like mine, it'll take about an hour or two to reach 76 degrees and keeps it there within one degree. Not elegant, but it works damn well!
These things are pretty sweet to go along with whatever you choose
This is what I have been running, works pretty well. [link]
If the heater itself does not have a programmable setting maybe something like this would work.
I don't own this, but it seems like what you are looking for - [link]
this plus a heating lamp should work just fine
Hook this up to it, works well on fans that don't work with a speed controller too:
Yeah, that's probably worth looking into for my tropicals at least. It's certainly cheap enough to experiment with.
This seems like a roughly equivalent product, as does this.
I'd just need to get a heater that comes on automatically when it's powered up, which is an easy enough thing to do. The more I think about it, the more I want to try it out.
I'd still like to build the monitoring solution, but something like this should be much more precise and reliable than what I'm currently doing.
I still think if I want to keep my temperate trees at 0C+/-3 I'd probably need something more customized.
Maybe this? [link]
That one you have looks like its for ducting. This might work:
Perhaps you need to buy one of these things? [link]
I've got one of these, which might work for your fan control. [link]
I use this
It's not very smart, but it's smart enough... basically you can set up 4 time/temperature combinations for weekdays and separate 4 time/temperature combinations for weekends.