I got mine off Amazon for under $200 from Luxnwatt. They have it on sale right now for a decent price, with prime shipping. I didn't have to connect them at all, so I can't speak to their support.
thank you all for your input! i ended up picking this up on prime day, i hope its a good choice, any input would be fantastic:
i got some white filament 1kg for the testing, i figured it would be the best for painting vs black. i appreciate everyones input and thank you, sorry if i copy and paste but i wanted to let everyone know with the same sentiment.
thank you all for your input! i ended up picking this up on prime day, i hope its a good choice, any input would be fantastic:
i got some white filament 1kg for the testing, i figured it would be the best for painting vs black. i appreciate everyones input and thank you, sorry if i copy and paste but i wanted to let everyone know with the same sentiment.
Yes, endstops are limit switches. The MPCNC X and Y axis have two motors each. You need dual (two) endstops for each axis for a total of four limit switches (X1, X2, Y1, and Y2). When ordering the Rambo, V1 will preflash them for you. Dual endstops require a different firmware than the series/non-endstop version. You can just order whatever and reflash it as needed yourself, but at the beginning you'll be plenty busy with other things so preflashed helps. I bought the series kit then a month or so later ordered the dual endstop wiring kit and printed off the limit switch mount and belt endstop attachments. Then I flashed my board for the dual endstops.
https://www.v1engineering.com/auto-square-dual-endstops/
For a Z-probe I built this using a .1mm feeler guage (actually .104mm since it wasn't a metric kit).
https://www.v1engineering.com/forum/topic/z-probe-using-feeler-gauge/
They sell similar things on Amazon, but there isn't much to it for it to work. The dual wiring kit will come with a cable you can run to the router to connect the Z-probe or you can use your own directly to the board's Zmin port. The Z-probe can be used with or without endstops and I'd recommend at least doing this with either kit. In your Repetier Host settings you add a bit of gcode to do the probing. The software has like 5 user customizable commands. I won't bog you down with the gcode, but most of it is on the V1 pages.
If I was to do it over I would at least add the dual wiring kit to my order since it is only $12 and just start with the basic series kit with the 6A power supply and Rambo. Then I would do very minimal cable management and go ahead and install the limit switch mounts on each axis. These mounts will work with either config and I had to disassemble each one to move to dual endstops. You can print the belt mounted stops, but no need to install them.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2847042
I had my cables managed using his suggest "tape measure trick" and had to undo it and redo it again. I've grown to hate the trick and still haven't managed it back to how neat it was.
This is my setup:
https://www.reddit.com/r/mpcnc/comments/cbx20t/finished_2x2x3_mpcnc_enclosure/
Learning the 3D printing was simple. Amazon has the Ender 3 ready with Prime. I just followed a couple YouTube setup videos that helped get everything running and square from the start. The practice parts were simple printer upgrades then I started on the MPCNC parts. If you have a Raspberry Pi then you can put OctoPrint on it and manage your prints remotely instead of using the SD card. I bought this Ender 3X so I'd have the glass bed. It is $10 cheaper now than when I bought it.
https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Upgraded-Ender-3X-Tempered-Printing/dp/B07GDJTVXJ