What is Reddit's opinion of Magnolian High Efficiency DC/DC Converter 12V Step Down to 9V 2A 18W Power Supply Module,Waterproof?

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That was the modern robotics controller bundle. But basically our whole set went bad and we had a paperweight robot which is why we thought we would try out rev robotics. u/robogreg can you help?

worst comes to worst, do you think something like this would work and be legal?

Every UPS I have owned beeps very loudly when you lose power (unplug).

I don't think a UPS is such a bad idea but there must be better solutions. I agree with the other poster that direct dc-dc would be ideal rather than converting from DC battery to 120AC then back down to DC. DC to DC would more efficient, quieter, lighter and probably would make signal noise less of a concern.

First you want to know how many amps the device draws. Maximum would be the rating on the adapters (maybe 1000 mA for the brute + whatever for the ER-1). Battery supplies often show amp-hour ratings. This would give you an idea of how long you can run on a particular battery (amp-hr / amps = hrs). But really your devices are not running at max rated power so you will probably get about 2x that amount. Just a guess. You can also use a kill-a-watt to figure typical draw.

The two different voltages is a bummer. You can get two different (smaller) battery supplies. Or a single 12v supply, split the output and step down one side to 9v with a dc-dc converter. (Maybe something like this)[https://www.amazon.com/Magnolian-Efficiency-Converter-Supply-Waterproof/dp/B00A71E52G].

Admittedly, I have never done something like this. If there are sudden steps in the power demand on either of these units, a battery might have a hard time handling it. Probably not a concern, except when first turning on the power.

Well the circular thing looks like a torrid inductor(commonly used for 3-30MHz resonance- not in the audible range), there are several small orange capacitors on the circuit near the inductor perhaps likely to generate resonance(or filter at certain frequencies). the electrolytic capacitors are likely just there to filter the output. the diode near the line labeled out1 suggests it could be some kind of DC to DC boost converter as do the fuses, however the lack of active components makes me think twice. Would it be possible to see the other side of the board?

this is just a guess by the way, I am merely a student in the Art Of Electronics haha.

edit; it reminds me of this product what was it connected to?

Go to Amazon, Alibaba, Mouser, eBay etc. You need a 12V to 9V DC/DC converter and a 12V to 9V DC/DC converter. Connect the inputs of both to the output of your 12V supply.

Here's an example: https://www.amazon.com/Magnolian-Efficiency-Converter-Supply-Waterproof/dp/B00A71E52G/

The amount of power consumed cannot exceed the rating of any converter. The 12V converter provides 12 V x 3 Amps = 36 watts output. You'll need to do similar calculations for the other two. Keep in mind some power is lost in conversion, so you can probably have 2.5 Amps at each voltage, or 1 Amp at 9 Volts plus 7 Amps at 3 Volts or any combination that adds up to about 30 Watts.

Fortunately, there's a solution for your FT-4X troubles: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A71E52G :)

For my USB stuff, which isn't ham related (by and large), I use an Anker multiport charger. I actually have a spare travel version of every single USB charger I need while on the road, a 4 port power strip (now discontinued), a small 10k battery bank, and a DSLR battery USB charger, and that fits into a zippered pouch that was an airline freebee. There's also room for my international adapters when I travel internationally (not so often now, obviously).

My laptop will run and charge off of the USB-C from the multiport charger, though I also carry a small HP travel charger with it for fast charging it. My amateur radio software is all loaded onto a Surface 3, which charges via MicroUSB.

But this is developed over years and years of traveling extensively. Pre-COVID, I could be packed for an international flight for 2 weeks in under an hour: my toiletries and chargers were already packed for travel. Laptop/tablet/camera/lenses go into their respective bags, and my HTs are split into two kits with their own bags with chargers and programming cables: one for my FT-60R and KG-UVN1, and the other for my FT3D and VX-8DR, which even empty have spare chargers and such in them. After that it's just grabbing luggage, choosing clothes, and off I went.

I haven't maintained it much since then because, well, COVID, and if you don't use the stuff it's not great for either your gear or consumables, so the bags sit mostly empty aside from my, but I could still put it all back together in a couple of hours and be ready to go again.

I doubt anyone has tried it. So in case you don't get a response, maybe you can DIY with a DC-DC step down converter, e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Magnolian-Efficiency-Converter-Supply-Waterproof/dp/B00A71E52G