Yeah, I grew up using circ saws from a young age and never thought about kickback. If anything the saw could kickback I guess.
Table saws... I’m aware of Kickback. I had it happen once cutting a 2’x 4’ piece of that plastic cardboard stuff of all things. Black and blue above my tool belt for a month. I just never thought something so small and light would kickback on me.
I do swear by those magnetic feather boards on big table saws. Gives me so much confidence working alone, it’s like having a second person with you.
The issue is that you are trying to do the job of 3 tools with one tool.
Just because you are starting with stock lumber doesn't mean that it is straight and flat. The "right" way to go about sizing stock would be to flatten one face on a jointer, then square one side to that face, then plane the other face parallel to the flat face, and finally rip it to final width on a table saw.
If you are simply trying to remove stock from a board and you don't care about squareness or straightness, you could just use a lunchbox planer for the thickness and a tablesaw for the width.
There is no way I would attempt to run 12' boards through a planer on edge, I think running them through a table saw with a good outfeed table would be much much safer and easier. Maybe a good magnetic featherboard would be a good idea for such long boards.
A feather board will help keep the workpiece tight against the fence. If you have a cast iron top, the magnetic ones are awesome.
https://smile.amazon.com/Magswitch-Table-Feather-Board-Universal/dp/B001DSZ7EC
If it's an aluminum top, you'll need one that clamps in the miter slot.