Yes of course!
But thats the us amazon, didnt found it on the au-amazon. And obviously, as always, you will pay more for it. ;-)
Full disclosure: I am a tinkerer, not a proper EE, know what you're doing before following my advice. I'm also dyslexic so double check all the labels and their meanings and wire colors cause I'm currently not in front of a real machine to double check anything. That said:
Maybe? My guess would be it'll work, but fail prematurely, I base this entirely on anecdotal evidence and hand waving. Motors and LEDs are very different loads (inductive vs resistive iirc) but some PSUs don't care, some do. usually the ones that don't care don't have an application in their description. That said, the link you posted is more expensive and less watts than https://www.amazon.com/MEAN-WELL-LRS-350-12-Switching-Constant/dp/B07BH1FTYP which I know can run 12v 8a rated motors (I've used them to do so, but motors aren't all alike, there's more to an electrical load than amps and volts.) Your link also has a brand name that looks like the designer fell asleep and hit their head on the keyboard, so chances are every spec is ... Embellished, and chances of you finding anyone to talk to when it decides to pursue a career in noise generation are zero.
To plug it in, cut a PC power cord, there should be a green, white, and black wire inside, black goes to L (live), white goes to N (neutral), green goes to the little downward arrow esque thing (ground). Also connect v- to ground, then V- and V+ can be connected to the load. For 8A you want reasonably thick wire (less than 20 guage, smaller guages are bigger, stranded or solid are fine, if you're going more than 5 feet, consult an ampacity table).
IP67 (intrusion protection, vs particles level 6, vs water level 7) is for weatherproofing, if you don't need that it's just going to add cost.
Tl;Dr I bet that'll work, but it technically isn't the right tool for the job and it's kinda pricey.
I ran into this same problem. Got some of the unitek adapters and ended up putting together my own solution with a industrial power supply and some dc power plugs.
You'll need a few other parts like primary wire, wire connectors but those can be from just about any hardware store.
I found most of my Homelab gear with external power supplies were 12VDC (as is the case with Netgear Orbi as revealed by a quick Google search). I just use a single 12VDC power supply with enough output current to supply all the 12V loads and a DC fuse block with each load fused at its power supply's rating. All the gear only occupies one AC outlet and is much more power-efficient than individual power supplies for each piece of equipment.
Power supply: https://www.amazon.com/MEAN-WELL-LRS-350-12-Switching-Constant/dp/B07BH1FTYP/
Fuse block: https://www.amazon.com/Circuit-Negative-Waterproof-Indicator-Automotive/dp/B08XWQHMZJ/
For 12V, I'd look into a Meanwell. The same kind used for 3d printers. Something like this: Meanwell LRS-350