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No..no vinegar on those electronics. Just a lot of fresh water or rubbing alcohol and then blow it dry and let it set for about a day in the sun, in other words make sure it's truly dry. Then see.if it survives and you are going to run in/near water then you need to look up Conformal Coating. It's easy to do but it's nasty stuff so only do it outside.
I prefer this coating (Link to Amazon) because it is salt-spray tested.
MG Chemicals 422B Silicone Modified Conformal Coating, 55mL Glass Bottle with Brushes, Clear [link]
That's the one I used, it appears to be out of stock at the moment, but it's highly recommended. It's also got an addative to make it shine under UV light, which makes it easy to tell if you've missed spots.
I'm sure you can find one just like it.
1) If you have an ESC that supports BLHeli_32, reduce ramp-up power from 50% to 25%, or (at most) 30%. It has no noticeable effect on performance, but significantly reduces the high transient current spikes that often show up in the first 10 milliseconds after you hit the throttle hard.
2) ESCs have lots of MOSFETs which are very sensitive to static electricity. Handle with care -- use a static strap when soldering to the ESC or motor wires, and once you have them soldered up, cover any exposed solder joints with a conformal coating.
The real concern isn't the connections, but rather water bridging conductive points on the board. For instance, between the power or ground pins and any other pins on your FCU's microcontroller. That'd be a bad time. Those pins are spaced out by half a mm or less, so good luck electrical taping them.
Conformal coating is pretty easy, and doesn't really have any drawbacks that I can think of. It won't make your quad waterPROOF, but it could prevent some droplets from sneaking their way into somewhere they shouldn't be and immediately ending your flight. I think that it's definitely worth the extra safety, unless you have a specific reason you don't want to.
I coated all my boards with this stuff when I first built my main quad, and I've flown it in mist and dew and it's been fine. I've also had to re-solder it a few times and the coating just burns off, not a problem.
Good advice. For extra credit, dump a $20 bottle of Silicone Modified Conformal on your air unit to waterproof it.
After trying my FC and a motor on my maiden flight I conformal coat everything I can. Just crashed today in 6" wet grass and aside from slices grass everywhere, no issues! A much lesser event shorted things before.
Here's what everyone uses:
Also grab a UV flashlight so you can confirm that you coat what you want to. Make sure you don't coat plugs, buttons, usb ports, or barometers. Watch a few videos and rock on.
I use this stuff [link]
It's an annoying thing because you only need a couple mL to do your board and the legit stuff is expensive.
Conformal coating It's cheap, easy to use, also most excellent for crawlers so you can go swimming!
I remember watching a YouTube video where someone covered their electronics in this stuff and flew it in a bathtub. Plus it doesn't add any bulk to the drone like liquid tape. But that being said I haven't tried it myself yet.
I'd second the conformal coating, seems to work well for me. this is the stuff I used [link]
A very important note about the HEDT chips:you *MUST* use cellulose based nail polish *OR* this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
to paint over those caps completely, and then let it dry, so that liquid metal will not touch them. Not only for short circuit protection, but liquid metal (gallium) will *absorb* the solder on those caps and then they will just fall off by themselves. This is VERY important to remember!!
Nail polish is cheap (transparent, cellulose based).
And you can't replace SMD's that small without professional equipment.
This is a good conformal coating I've used after cleaning of the board to protect the traces:
MG Chemicals 422B Silicone Modified Conformal Coating, 55 ml Bottle [link]
Not sure if Amazon works for you but try finding MG chemical's "Silicone MODIFIED conformal coating".
What is the difference between silicone conformal coating 422B and 422C? I have 422B but it's out of stock on Amazon. I noticed silicone conformal coating 422C was available.
OK, learned 422C is the new formula. Is that what your using? Or 422B?
What is the difference between modified and non-modified silicone conformal coating?
I noticed the modified SCC is no longer available on Amazon but the non-modified SCC is. What's the difference?
What i use https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Modified-Conformal/dp/B008O9YIV6/ref=pd_lpo_328_t_1/138-4226764-6536352?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B008O9YIV6&pd_rd_r=6a4aca1d-51c8-4aa6-893f-d62ea0178d57&pd_rd_w=4iiae&pd_rd_wg=7veL7&pf_rd_p=7b36d496-f366-4631-94d3-61b87b52511b&pf_rd_r=046RTFQ6MQT1D14HD766&psc=1&refRID=046RTFQ6MQT1D14HD766
What country is that? If you are in the US Amazon has what you are looking for.
Here is a link to it on amazon. Would be happy to send an affiliate link if you like :)
Seriously though, this stuff works well for me. I can fly and crash into snow with confidence. :)
I used the brushed on kind. Spray might be nice if you are protecting the entirety of a larger piece, but brush on is much better for just covering selected components: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6
Awesome advice and work!
Before installing the heatsinks could you coat the area with something like this coating?
Might help making it a little less likely to short and has a 200C rating. I haven't tried it but was thinking about it before I start adding heat sinks.
Try [link] or [link] depending on how long you want it to last.
I've built a Zero W that has 3 analog sensors attached to it now. 2 are soil moisture and one is sunlight. Your sensors should work just the same.
First thing to do is convert the analog into digital with an ADC:
Then you'll need to install the python packages for whichever one you buy. Either ADS, Switchdoc, or Seeed, and then you can convert the voltage reading to a percentage by testing for the range of your sensors and doing the math.
To waterproof you want conformal coating, this is what I found is recommended for RC cars and drones for weatherproofing.
As far as heat goes you can create a canopy to act as shade for your box, which should keep the temp down.
I also put mine in a waterproof enclosure from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G4VT33F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 with https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KFCGFYF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here's a picture
And then I made a little app to view the sensors
A tip for anyone considering using LM. Before application get a feel for how much comes out into paper towel or something similar you don't care about. Usually the initial press will shoot out.
Next buy conformal coating. https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Silicone-Modified-Conformal/dp/B008O9YIV6/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2QJDDCL94O239&keywords=conformal+coating&qid=1577724754&sprefix=conformal+%2Caps%2C204&sr=8-1
use this to insulate around the cpu so if you do spill over it won't matter just clean and you are good to go. You can also use electrical tape but that seems half assed to me... go the extra mile.
Don't use liquid electrical tape. It can't handle the temps and will just be goo under the HS. Use MG Chemicals 422B Silicone Modified Conformal Coating instead found here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's for waterproofing electronics.
This is what you want
As others have mentioned, get rid of that tape. You should be using a conformal coating like this stuff... [link]
Actually, I didn't do anything to the connectors. Good XT60 connectors should be watertight as-is, and I left all connectors open for fear of getting silicone in them.
I ruined my first FC board when the silicon 'wicked' up into the dry micro USB port. I couldn't plug in the cable anymore, so I had to get a new FC.
MG Chemicals Silicon Modified Conformal Coating.
I was able to see where I had coated and where I missed with this UV Flashlight.
I have no clue about electric skate boards, but i prefer proper water-proof enclosures and connectors.
Because that makes repairs easier, otherwise, conformal coating or potting is a good idea.
Put it in a enclosure and slather it in proper silicone potting compound.
Or you can just use the stuff from the hardware store but you need to be careful and use the acid free silicone caulking, the regular cheap one will eat your traces.
You can apply that to your board with a small brush.
I dont get it?
is $13 is that out of your price range?
The nice thing about actual conformal coating is that you can solder through the coating or remove it if needed. Had grate luck with it so-fare.
They sell [link] its about $5 more though, it is an Aerosol. Never used it before though.
I wanted to try this but dat manufacturing lead time doe
Dry drone is a popular product out there but, it's price to size ratio is crazy. I also have come across Silicone Conformal coating like this:
Use silicone conformal coating. It sticks to the board way better than liquid electrical tape does, and doesn't look so sloppy.