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Since no one actually ANSWERED the Op's question - it's two half bed sized masking tape sheets, which I found hilarious since it's such cheap quality masking tape.
Throw them out as well as the roll of tape they give you, it's crap.
If you MUST use tape, as many have stated, use Blue painters tape.
That said, IMHO you should run, not walk to your nearest Lowes or Home Depot (in the US) and get a 6 pack of 12" square "mirror tiles" for $10 USD. (Note, IKEA has them too, 3 for $4 as I recall, but not one near me.)
OK. Why mirrors? They're flat. Who wants a wavy mirror? Most are very close to dead flat, and it's cheaper than ordering some specialty glass.
Many people print directly on the glass, no tape, hair spray, glue or other gunk. Works for many prints, but some prints will require more hold, so you'll hear a lot of opinions as to what's best. Some even say to flip the mirror and use the back, it's rougher. TOO rough for my taste...
Personally I favor a PEI sheet attached to a mirror. Glass smooth bottoms, sticks like mad, prints pop off when it cools. No mess, just print and go. There are others like BuildLok which gets great reviews too. I sometime pull it when done printing, load another mirror and go.
I rough up a NEW sheet's surface with 400 Grit (some people use 220 grit) silicon carbide wet/dry paper and a flat rubber sanding block under running water. Same thing with a mirror, the prints stick better if there's some "tooth" to the surface, but I want a smooth print bottom, so I use 400 grit.
While I'm at it, I also smooth the corners and edges of the glass under running water with a diamond sharpening stone. I'm fond of my fingers, cuts are a drag. LOL!
Cleaning - I use 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol in a small sprayer - which started life as a deodorant bottle ... ;-)
About $13 on Amazon:
Lasts forever, last bottle lasted also 2 years.
Here’s the stuff you want: MG Chemicals - 824-1L 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Electronics Cleaner, 945 mL (1 Quart) Liquid Bottle [link]. I use it to clean flux off pcbs. It won’t hurt electronics
You can get it easy on Amazon, there are hundreds of brands to chose from.
This is what I use, since it contains no water and is 99.9%. use gloves though, it will dry the crap out of skin.
I've been buying this but the price has gone up since Covid started.
Edit: it shows up as prime on the amazon app but when I copy and paste the link its not showing it as prime.
It’s called isopropyl alcohol here, you can get it on Amazon. I buy it for cleaning computer bits, and it makes a cracking cleaning solution for your mobile phone screen too - makes it look brand new as it’s effectively a very powerful degreasing agent so it takes any grubby finger prints off brilliantly well.
Also acts as a disinfectant, apparently.
This is the one I buy. It lasts ages too.
Only downside is that it will dry your skin out very well indeed so be careful when handling it.
What's the deal with this stuff? I've had some in my amazon cart for a while to make my own flux with for my next project. Also, to soak PCB's after soldering to clean them off.
Does 91% work well enough for both of those tasks? I have been hesitant to soak anything in 91%...
alcohol will readily evaporate. Once the alcohol has "extracted" (pulled all the good shit) out of the plant matter, just let it sit out for a day or so. Applying heat will accelerate this process. it will evaporate and leave a gooey resin on your plate (or Pyrex dish). scrape (razor blade) and smoke. your done. Aside from golden grain you can also use this. Just don't drink it.
This should work. It's not reagent grade, but I don't think the .09% difference will make a difference in a non-lab setting. The introduced impurities from the q-tip would make it a moot point anyway.
Everclear will bring through more plant matter because it is only 95% alcohol (or 76% if your state doesnt allow the real stuff). I would highly recommend getting 99% iso from amazon. Dont listen to anyone who says the flavor isnt as good with iso. If you use 99.9%, it all evaporates anyway.
If you use everclear, your oil will be an undesireable shade of green due to bringing through the water soluble parts of the plant
Hmm. okay. I saw a Youtube video that recommended this product, but that was for making an RSO wax/oil consistency, so maybe he used it because all the alcohol is evaporated off..
I usually use 99% purity alcohol to clean electronics. 70% is fine if you don't have electronics grade stuff.
Get mechanical grade alcohol, 99%, get it in the pressurized spray can, and regular bottle. Disassemble the GPU and get any parts that got coolant on them out of the system.
Get a clean plastic container that can fit the parts you've gotten wet. Put the alcohol in there from the non pressurized n bottle. Place parts in bath of alcohol, use the pressurized alcohol and qtips to clean your parts. Once done, let dry for at least 48 hours in front of a fan.
I've recovered an entire x99 system this way. Good luck.
What you want is anhydrous isopropyl
Q-tips and 99.9% isopropyl alcohol that is cleared for electronics.
This shit is the best: [link]
This is the best chance you've got fixing it yourself:
If I could add: you’ll want 99+% isopropyl alcohol, such as:
Don't forget to clean, too. I also bought a bottle of 99% alcohol from Amazon for the purpose of cleaning (this was even during the alcohol based sanitizer limited supplies, so I'm surprised I was able to do it, lol)
15 bucks on Prime, 20 bucks Original price.
I find it on Amazon.
You can also fine 99% food grade stuff that in cheaper.
Hope that helps!
I use 99.9%. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DNQX3C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thats everything i needed to get the job done. The soldering kit i bought came with some solder and a solder sucker, so i didnt need to buy them seperately.
EDIT: the kailh 4.0 are heavier switches to click than the omrons that come in the GPW. A light switch alternative would be the honeywell https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32684810936.html
be warned, i tried ordering my kailh 4.0 reds from there and they sent me keyboard switches instead. Needless to say i wasnt happy. So i ordered them from an English based website even though it cost a few dollars more
> Even with my fine focus it's a miniscule difference between clear and blurry.
Getting exact focus on Jupiter requires some patience and luck with the observing conditions. Turbulent atmosphere, a telescope that's not fully thermally acclimated, a planet that's too low in the sky, all make it difficult to get a clear view.
Jupiter's features can be relatively low contrast, especially at higher magnification when the view is dim. This makes it challenging to dial in perfect focus.
> Any suggestions on cleaning the eyepieces? If they're coated I'd assume I want to avoid anything alcohol based?
Actually isopropyl alcohol and a distilled water mixture, with Q-tips, works best. The higher purity the alochol you can get, the less residue cleanup you have to do after.
I bought one of these, and it's great:
My procedure is this:
Use any soft bristle brush (paint brush, makeup brush, brush that's in one of those lens pen things), and just brush away and loose dust or grit.
Create a 50/50 mix of the alocohol and distilled water. Doesn't have to be even remotely exact to be honest, just some mixture is good. The alcohol evaporates quickly, so mixing with the water just keeps the eyepiece lens wet a bit longer, giving you more time to use the Q-tip before it dries out.
Dab the Q-tip in the mixture so that it's moist, not soaking wet. Dab it on a paper towel once if you have to. Then just gently rub the eye lens. Try to avoid getting too close to the edges when its very wet, as capillary action can pull the water into the eyepiece, and then you need to stick it in a bag of uncooked rice to help it dry.
Use the other end of the Q-tip to dry it up. Inspect it at all angles under a light. You might see some residue. If you do, then just get a fresh Q-tip, fog it with you breath or use a bit more distilled water only (not the mixture), and then gently rub, using another Q-tip to dry it as needed.
That procedure has kept my eyepieces spotless. The coatings bond to the glass under them so they are quite durable.
This is exactly what I bought from Walgreens:
Here is the 99.9% anhydrous stuff I use:
It looks like it was in a flood or fire. Odds are the person turned it on and fried it. Your best bet is to save the cpu, the gpus by stripping them down. The motherboard is cheap to get, the ram is probably indestructible... forget the psu exists. You need to really clean the parts well to get the contaminants off. Head to walmart and get gallon jugs of distilled water, and just clean it really really well.
Do you have access to a large ultrasonic cleaner? Fill it with isopropyl and turn it on outside (so there's no fire and explosion risk).
After you use the alcohol to drive the water out, I would clean the gpus twice as the ram is bga, and get a can of pcb contact cleaner and blast it with that when totally done.
I'm pretty sure you can salvage the gpus if the caps are solid caps.
Keep us posted, this looks like fun.
Then what's this?
A pretty good deal for $12 a bottle. [link]
I ordered mine off amazon:
Edit: Oops just noticed they are out of stock sorry.
No problem! This is what I use, FYI: [link]
You could probably find it cheaper.
Been using the cleanervinyl system for about a month. I have about 250 albums to clean and I'm halfway through. If you can, be sure to use 100% isopropyl and absolutely invest in a pint of Triton X-100 as a surfactant
This cleans it in a flash along with coarse sea salt
This one is good