This is the nozzle you're looking for.
I've seen a few options, up to 4 colors on an Ender.
But to be perfectly honest, I think I might start looking at a little bit better of a machine before I went quite that far on an Ender 3. Something that had multiple colors in mind when it was being designed anyways.
I've done a ton of modding to this machine, but at some point I gotta draw that line in the sand. Just because you can endlessly mod doesn't mean you don't hit a point of diminishing returns.
I don't know, I'd have to think about it a bit more. Multiple colors would be nice, I just haven't put a lot of realistic thought into how I would go about it yet. A Prusa is definitely not out of the question, especially with that 5 color upgrade that can also do soluble supports.
the reason this was suggested is because the micro swiss nozzle that comes with this is the bees knees.
its made from tool steel and lasts forever.
Thanks! WRT the nozzle, I'm assuming you mean that the brass plated one that is included isn't quite good enough. Is this the one you recommend? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DJY52CC/ref=emc_b_5_t
Nozzle: Micro Swiss MK8 Plated A2 Tool... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DJY52CC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Filament: eSUN PETG Filament 1.75mm, PETG... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08N16LGKZ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
you don't need the microswiss hotend whatsoever. I'll get to that later.
but you can print PETG on a stock machine. what I would suggest is getting Capricorn XS ptfe tubing, which is much safer than stock at higher temps.
as for direct drive, I would worry about that if you plan on going to print TPU. for PETG, if you're ever going to get anything micro Swiss is to get this nozzle. it's plated tool steel. they have plated brass for less, but the plated keeps filament from sticking to the nozzle. a must have for PETG.
so you really don't need an all metal hotend for this. I've been making things out of PEGT this way for a long time now. but there is titanium heatbreak that turns the stock hotend into an all metal. printsleo3d has a video about it.
this has got to be the best so far. nothing sticks to it. (Micro Swiss MK8 Plated A2 Tool Steel Wear Resistant Nozzle)[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DJY52CC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_MJB87E2J0434EYMQJHHV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1]
Thank you so much! I was able to follow your guide to remove the nozzle. It turned out that the screw on the left wasn't perfectly aligned in the factory & was pushing against the metal enclosure (warping it as I was loosening it), so I hadn't actually loosened it as much as I should have. After reading your recommendation, I just continued to unscrew it without caring for the metal warping, completely removed it and then was able to loosen the block.
To remove the filament from the screw that's on top of the yellow block, I used a push-pin & a hammer. There's still some filament stuck in the nozzle: I've ordered a 0.4mm needle that hopefully will do the trick. The nozzle looks fine otherwise. If for some reason it doesn't work out, I'll order the replacement you've linked to. Thanks for that recommendation as well!
I found this another guide (from a post on this subreddit) to take the entire thing apart. I'm glad I did: there was some filament tighly wound just beside the spring that's on top of the nozzle & was able to remove it by taking everything apart together. Just hope that I can put it back all together, lol.
These are the two I used on my CR-10 v3 prior to upgrading the extruder/hotend. Just be careful installing them. Replacing the nozzle on the Titan is a bitch since the fan housing makes it difficult to hold the hotend in place which you install the nozzle. I ended up crushing the fan housing too much, which is why I replaced it.
Microswiss 0.4mm
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DJY52CC
Microswiss 0.8mm