What is Reddit's opinion of Miner-All Calcium/Mineral Supplement, Indoor, 6 oz?

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One more thing you may consider doing is getting this stuff and smooshing the butt of the mouse into a bit of it before serving. The pinks she’s been eating had negligible calcium because their skeletons are mostly cartilage at that age. I think your corn is a good candidate for calcium supplementation.

https://www.amazon.com/Miner-All-Calcium-Mineral-supplement-Indoor/dp/B004JP3XJ2

Repashy Calcium Plus is not a complete multivitamin, it is a calcium supplement that has some added vitamins. As such it can't replace Herptivite or Reptivite.

In addition Rephashy products are not formulated with Bearded Dragons in mind, and I don't like using them period. I much prefer Miner-all Indoor which is a much more rounded, and better calcium supplement. Granted it's still not made solely for dragons, but in my opinion it's a better product that Repashy. It's also a formulated all in one meaning you can dust every single meal every single day without having to worry about D3 levels, or using a separate supplement with D3.

Usually the calcium in these powders comes in the form of Calcium Carbonate. Different manufacturers can add vitamin D3 to the powders in small amounts so that an indoor animal can get enough so they can use the calcium in their metabolism (D3 is produced by exposure to UVb light)

Indoor animals tend to lack that.

You can try ordering via Amazon what I use.

But if the calcium product you have already DOES NOT have any phosphorus in it.

It should be okay to use.

The calcium requirements for healthy growth are not usually that high at all. IF you can give them natural sunlight and a light dusting at least once a week.

You should have a healthy animal without any bone deformities or neurological impairment.

Step 4: Feeding time! Proper diet is crucial for young dragons as they are constantly growing. Here is the general chat you should follow for feeding:

• Dragons six months and under should be allowed to eat as many appropriately sized feeders as they want in 15 minutes three times a day. In addition to the protein fresh greens should be available all day, from their first protein feeding until two hours before lights off. A healthy animal in this age range will eat between 80-100 feeder insects every single day.

• Dragons six months to a year should follow the same schedule but only have two protein feedings a day instead of three.

• A varied diet is key to a healthy animal, you should look to include the following in your dragon’s diet: Dubia Roaches, Crickets, Superworms (on occasion), Mealworms (are fine if your husbandry is up to par, which it is if you followed my instructions), and Black Soldier Fly Larva. For greens you should offer a variety of rich hearth greens such as: Collard Greens, Mustard Greens, Dandelion Greens, Chard, Endive, and some herbs like Cilantro. You can also offer Butternut Squash, as well as most fruit in small amounts (watch for the sugar content). Do not feed pellet food or any kind of “Bearded Dragon Diet,” or freeze dried insects. On a slightly related now, dragon’s do not need access to standing water in their tank. They will seldom drink from it and more likely use it as a toiler. Standing water simply raises humidity and acts as a breeding ground for bacteria. If you want to put a water bowl in your enclosure, then make sure you change it daily.

• In addition to proper feeders you need to offer proper vitamins as well. You need to be dusting every single meal (feeders and greens) every single day with calcium powder, and you should dust 3 meals a week (I do first meal of the day Monday, Wednesday, and Friday) with a multivitamin. For calcium I recommend using Miner-All Indoor which can be used daily, you can find it here. For the multivitamin I recommend using Herptivite which can be found here. These vitamins are crucial to your dragon’s development, immune system, and ability to thrive.

• All non-cricket feeders and greens can be offered in a no-escape bowl. You can order these from most online retailers, or get nice ceramic rodent bowls (which often have curled lip) from most pet stores. Crickets can be feed a few at a time inside your animal’s enclosure. Poor in a few crickets right on from of your animal, let him chase and eat them. Continue this until your dragon stop showing interest in them. You can leave them in for a short time afterwards to see if they will eat them. After 15 more minutes go back and remove any crickets that weren’t eaten. Do not leave crickets in your dragon’s enclosure as they can bite and will literally try and eat your animal.

Step 5: Soaks are important for your dragon and will help it to shed properly as a baby. Dragons under six months of age should be soaked for 15-20 minutes every other day at the least, with every day being ideal. Dragons over six months can drop to 15-20 minutes three times a week. Fill a clean bathtub, sink, or bin with water that is around 100F. Make it deep enough so that it will come up a bit above your dragon’s elbows. Place your dragon into the water and leave it in there for 15-20 minutes. Some dragons will drink the water which is wonderful, and some will not. The purpose of this isn’t to hydrate them internally but to help hydrate their skin and assist with shedding. A health baby dragon will honestly be shedding almost constantly. Proper soaks allow them to grow more easily and stay comfortable. Don’t be alarmed if your dragon used the bathroom in the water, this is very common.

There’s so much more than can be covered, but this is a good stopping place for first time owners. I might expand on this at a later time to add in more advance husbandry thoughts or just dispel some common myths. If you have any questions at all though you are more than welcome to ask them here or reach out to me privately. Remember you have a wild, living animal in your care now. Be patient and persistent and don’t cut corners. If you follow this guide you will have a healthy and happy animal assuming there are no outside factors coming into play.

I believe this is what you are looking for.

http://www.amazon.com/Miner-All-Calcium-Mineral-supplement-Indoor/dp/B004JP3XJ2/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1458603210&sr=1-1&keywords=miner+all

Sorry about not replying earlier...

Well it seems that we have multiple things happening. one being that he's not been handled enough so that he's over his fears. The other is that he's too big for a shot glass, Also the placement is a bit too high for him to dip his head in to it. They will try to lick the edge of the glass and where the waters refraction is strongest (usually at the opposite side of the glass where they can focus) So something wider is better.. just so they can get their heads into it.

The partial shed isn't such a bit deal right now, he's young but getting him to drink may take some time as they're really shy about it sometimes.

What I suggest is that you get a 16.9 oz bottle of water at the store for a buck. Cut off the bottom, refill it with tap water and set that in a bright spot on the bottom of the cage - so it sparkles. They'll walk up to it... the edges will reflect light and that's what attracts them... this works with all the different species I've kept.

Just give them a clear and easy pathway down to it and they'll drink. You might not see it, but they'll do it.

IF there's a problem you might have to help them make that connection but once they do.. it's easily remembered.

I'm going to take some images and get some of the same glasses I use for my animals put up on the site for people that are having trouble. They all have surfaces that refract light and make it more attractive to the chams.. even the shot glasses.

I've also picked up a few dozen canisters of miner-all (indoor D3 formula) that I'll sell for $6 ea. that's less than half the price of what I've found on amazon.

I'll get the rest of the pricing and shipping worked out - might as well throw in some b. dubia for people as well as starter kits. It looks like people needs that sorta stuff... so lets get them started off right.