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I didn't want to send mine in for repairs just yet so I ordered this off of Amazon and it solved the buzzing/humming:
When my Zelda hype has died down a bit then I'll be sure to send mine in for repairs! This is the first post I've seen of someone sending it in for this issue so thanks for the heads up!
It’s probably a bad ground. Try out a ground loop isolator, like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_cfHMPtUQQ6mmD
I use it in my Mazda 3, plugged into the aux/audio port in the glove box. It removes static background noise.
Use a voice chat app on your phone, and use the PC's line in to listen to it.
You need a male-to-male 3.5mm audio jack cable. Connect one end to the headphone port on your phone, and the other end to your PC's line in port. It should be colored blue. Then, go into Windows' Sound Control Panel, "Recording" tab, find the Line In. Settings, Listen, check "Listen to this device". Then select your output device from the dropdown below, that's your headphones or speakers. Done - you should be able to hear whatever audio your phone it putting out via your PC's audio output, while still being able to listen to your PC audio, like Tarkov sounds.
If you hear a static noise in the background, you need a ground loop isolator, like this one. They're like 10$ and are pretty reliable - I've never had to replace mine. Otherwise, you're good to go - use the phone itself as a microphone and your headphones to listen. You can unplug the cable at any time, the settings will be untouched. I just checked with my phone and it works fine, just needed to adjust volumes.
I use this method to route audio from my consoles into my PC so I can have game audio and Youtube or Discord on second monitor, works flawlessly.
If you're connecting the aux cable via Line In (3.5mm jack) you could actually pick up a ground loop isolator. Normally all buzzing issues via 3.5mm are fixed with those.
I can't say with absolute certainty that a ground loop isolator would fix the issue, however $10 vs $170 for a reputable branded capture card? I'd try the $10 first. I have a couple of these which have fixed buzzing via 3.5mm.
However if you're in the market for getting a capture card, I would actually opt for something new instead. - That's just me however, if you're fine with the current setup then I would definitely stick with that.
my MG is very noisy when sampling. I now think it's part of the charm of using it for sampling. You can use a little line noise reducer if you don't like all the noise.
looks like the one I bought is no longer available but this one should work just the same as the one I use for my noisy Op-1
If your playing music through an aux cord while having the AMP charging it will make a hissing static noise. I've had that whenever I charged my phone and had my aux cord in at the same time I solved that issue a while back by buying a ground loop noise isolator off Amazon. Here's a link to the one I bought Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable.
Get one with AptX or AptX HD to preserve more of the sound quality. There are tons of models. If you get hissing or popping, use a ground loop isolator (it's just an aux cord extension that removes that noise, like $9 on Amazon). That generally comes from the alternator of your car though, not charging your phone since your phone wouldn't have a headphone jack to be directly linked in this case.
The isolator should work. Here is the one i purchased to fix my noise problem and it worked like a charm(in case the one you got doesn’t work):
Not sure about the multiple inputs, but I’ll see what I can figure out.
You could try a ground lifter. May not work but it has worked many mini synths for me.
On my OP-1 though I think the noise is only there when I connect USB and it goes away when not connected. Did you try both ways?
Also, X-Noise plug in by Waves is phenomenal at removing this kind of noise transparently, its like $30 bucks i think
i had to get this from amazon to stop that from happening: Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Grey) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5BDQMAXJEBFN62CGF8T4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
works like a charm
All you have to do is plug in the USB to the Xbox to get xbox audio/xbox mic - and then plug the 3.5mm audio cable into the aux jack on the mixamp and the headphone jack or speaker jack in on your PC. I had some feedback issues with the aux so I bought this and it fixed that: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o03\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
can’t recommend this item enough. i had this same issue when i played music through aux with my phone plugged in. the constant ringing would just get to me. it happens when you get power going into whatever sound device you have. called a ground loop. anyway this solved it and i wish i bought it sooner. enjoy!
Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_s89MdzAr7oXmI
+If you want to record audio through a DS (or almost anything you can plug headphones into), you just plug it in to a PC's mic port using a 3.5mm male-male cable, and record that mic channel with a program like Audacity.
Doing this by itself causes a lot of static, but using a ground loop noise isolator (like this) gets rid of that.
Hope this helps!
you may need to ground your signal - downside of battery powered devices in general but someone with real signal/electrical knowledge would know better. the below works for me
Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_GQ4YDFGDY4H8ANNE0C91?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It sounds to me like one of your audio lines might not be grounded on one of the ends. Try a ground loop isolator like this one. Really cheap and should stop any buzzing that you're hearing if that is the problem.
I had my headphones plugged into my console monitor and mic plugged into my PC and was getting a similar buzz. My solution was to get a "3.5mm ground loop isolator".
Solved my issue.
That is what I thought. It's the splitter, it creates a ground loop. (I believe that is what it is called.) The COM is connected to both speaks and microphone. I personally don't know how to prevent it except by using a port designed for headsets.
The only thing I can think of is a Ground Isolator.
Amazon.com: Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)
I had the same issue. Bought this and no more problem. I tried every kind of power adapter and plugged into different outlets, etc.
Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BVD993QM4HT626HQQR21?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I’ve gotten this using my OP-1 charging cable while it was connected to the audio interface. Fixed it with a ground loop isolator not sure if your workflow fits one but it saved me a lot of noise.
Try getting a 3.5mm noise isolator. Connect one end to your PC and the other to your headphones. It might solve your issue for about $10.
The CB-1 is very easy to drive, so the only real benefit you’d get from an external amp is reducing the EMI noise from your other hardware. A noise isolator may solve the EMI issue, and your on-board audio should be more than sufficient to drive them fully.
Edit: here’s a link to one that I’ve used before.
Hey sorry I don't stay logged in here so I don't get any notifications.
To answer your question, the noise you're hearing is called ground loop noise. It is in fact due to either bad Mobo design or lack of grounding on one or several components (your power strip is also guilty here)
Ground loop noise can be eliminated using either a change in design or adding a component in series.. Some aux cables have the component as part of the cable (if you ever see aux cables with big coils on the end parts)
Good luck !
If the new cord also buzzes, you could try a 3.5mm ground loop isolater.
These cheap ones wont always eliminate 100% of the noise, but they can basically nullify it.
Though normally people only have to use them when connecting the Switch audio to another powered device like a PC or monitor.
Yep. All audio from the PC will come through as long as the aux is plugged in so you can hear your music while playing Xbox.
One note. You may need to get a ground lool noise isolator that gets plugged into that aux cable so you don't get a feedback or static noise. This is the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_m925FbXRBVZJ2
I wanted to let you know that I also had noise from other sources after returning the monitor. Today I received a Mpow noise isolator that I ordered and it eliminates all of that. I don't know if it will isolate the monitor stuff but it's cheap and it did work for me.
My 305's hissed crazily when running off my computer. Everything from my computer was interfering with them - especially my graphics card and USB mouse scroll button (wtf ?!).
It all went away instantly with a ground loop filter, less than $10 from amazon. I got this one, but there are others that do the same thing:
On the rattling, that sounds like a defect in manufacture or something got knocked loose in transport. I'd return it to JBL under warranty for repair.
its ground loop static. electrical noise that can come from a ton of things. you can use a ground loop isolator or hum eliminator from amazon. they have ones that use 3.5mm audio plugs, ones that you would just plug your computers power cable into (these are also called power conditioners) or ones that you would plug xlr and 1/4 audio cables into (these arent really for PCs)
i'd start with the this one since its so cheap, plug it into the motherboard then your headphones into it. since you're hearing it in your captures/streams this might not work since its meant to filter noise coming to and from the headset or from the PC to speakers. If its the motherboard causing the sound you'd have to get one of the AC hum eliminators or power conditioners.
you can sometimes test this by moving the PC to another room and giving it its own outlet then plugging in the monitor to another outlet and set it as far away as you can since monitors can cause this noise too. if you dont hear it then its the outlets in your room or something the PC/Cables are near thats causing the interference
It would be best to use a USB audio interface with balanced outputs for studio monitors if you want to avoid the hiss as much as possible.
I personally bought a ground loop isolator from Amazon to remove this hiss completely and it worked wonderfully. Some people believe using one removes some of the dynamics from the monitors, but I never noticed a difference. It connects to your computer via 3.5mm cable. You just need a dual XLR or dual TRS to 3.5mm cable to connect it.
You are going to want to look for something called a "ground loop isolator". It just plugs in-line between your headphones and the jack. They run somewhere around $10 usd on amazon.
Something like this : https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2
I got the Mpow ground loop isolator.
Looks like its stereo and not mono. My setup if it helps is:
Headset/mic plugged into USB adapter (That holds both audio lines). Then just line in on back of PC to Switch. Again, got both left and right with no isolator, only right side with isolator. Tried 2 different 3.5mm cords as well.
Follow up question: I bought a Loop Noise Isolator and it got rid of the noise, but everything sounded....muffled? It just didn't sound right. Bass was muddy and pitches were off.
Would I have similar issues with the Apple adapter?
You can run a 3.5 from your Switch's headphone jack to the audio input jack of your computer (Not your headphone or mic jack, but the one that actually says something like "Line-In".).
You can also run a 3.5 from your tv's headphone jack (If it has one.) to your PC's line-in. That's what I do.
Just be aware that you may need an in-line filter if you go this route to cancel interference and hum from your computer (Especially if its a cheap old pile like mine.).
They look like this:
Ground Loop Noise Filter
Plug the male end of the filter into the PC and the male end of your lead cord into the filter.
Dude it's super easy. I haven't looked up to see if this is the best method for woz but it worked great on the other two I mentioned. Just unplug the cable them plug this in with it. Done
Also I am a junky for replacing loud fans. I do it on every spike and spike 2 game I have owned and also did it on my JJP games. My game room is also my office so I am not a fan of those loud fans behind my desk.
Have you tried using a 3.5mm ground loop? They're relatively inexpensive online. I had static issues as well and this cleared it up.
I forgot how to shorten a link. I've been away from reddit for too long.
Get a group loop isolator. Cheap off Amazon. This is the one I use. Just a little dongle you incorporate into your aux cable setup.
If I understand your setup correctly, you'll just plug this little guy into the audio out of your monitor and plug the speakers into the other end. Should cut off that static nicely.
I used a very, very similar setup myself until I got a capture card for my PC. This won't get rid of 100% of the static, but it should cut it down significantly.
It's probably caused by a ground loop.
This would likely fix it: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2
As explained by Amazon user Atman on the page:
>Any device that uses the car AUX input and connects to power may get a loud buzzing that changes pitch as the car's engine speed changes. This noise is caused by a loop created by the two connections to the cars ground. This adaptor isolates the audio connection by using a transformer so that there is no physical connection to ground only a electrical connection for the audio, thus stopping the ground loop and preventing the noise.
Best way is to just plug in an audio cable from your switch into the blue line-in port on your PC. I've been doing this since the switch came out.
You do need a ground loop isolator though, otherwise you only get loud static because of interference coming from the dock.
You mean like this? From what I’ve found, it seems that’s for use with aux cables. My head unit takes in audio over Bluetooth and sends it out directly over soldered wires connected to my harness. Would this still work the same way?
Funny you should mention that, I think all Z5's DO share the issue, because I bought the first set from Best Buy, returned them because they wouldn't price match, got the same speakers from amazon, and am now just praying that the ones suggested work, because oh my god returning stuff is a pain in the ass.
https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2 Heck I wonder if one of these might help lol.
Also, it's sudden volume changes you say?
This is what I bought
There is also a Western Digital My Book external drive plugged into my Xbox via usb
So far the isolator has completely suppressed the buzz on my mic. After a few tests there is a quiet buzz that’s now in the background of the recordings. (Not in my headset like it used to)
I’m trying to fiddle with it but the main problem is solved with that thing I bought
EDIT: in my computer settings I turned down the mic volume to 70 and that was enough to get rid of the buzz on the recordings. I think it’s all good now
Connected to the aux on the motherboard.
3400G, 16GB 3200mhz ram, pico 160XT.
Zero whine from anything. Speakers are dead silent when not playing anything.
There are ground loop isolators you can buy to go between the motherboard and speakers if you’re that concerned.
Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Q7CoDb6CD21C4
Happy to help!
I have a pretty complicated setup that lets me seamlessly switch between my PC speakers and my wireless headset, all of it basically uses that same method, using the PC as a sound hub. If you're getting a little static buzzing, grab one of these and just put it anywhere in your setup.
It sounds like a ground loop. Does the buzzing/whine get louder as you turn up the volume?
If so, there are a few solutions:
If none of the above options worked, you'll need to purchase a Ground Loop Isolator. Cheap and they work extremely well.
You might be getting some feedback from an aux input, I had a similar problem when I was running a dual card setup to record and stream at the same time on xbox. Im on PC now and I still use this, it works great!
I'm not going to pretend I know more of the science behind why these work, but usually if I have a noisy signal, I will throw a ground loop isolator into the mix and it usually clears it up. I originally bought this thing because the headphone out from my monitor spits out NOISY ass audio with my nintnedo switch, this thing cleared up all the noise. Don't know if it will work for this case, but could be worth a shot:
I use mine when I sample to my po33 to be safe
Update: the magnets cable covers didn’t help but this did help. It’s not 100% quiet but it’s so much better than it was before. Slight hiss left that I’m willing to ignore. Thanks all for the tips!
its just a 10 dollar thing . something like this https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=pd_bxgy_107_2/144-6596689-0780450?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B019393MV2&pd_rd_r=5993d709-4528-11e9-969f-a1ee2b4b46aa&pd_rd_w=cjuAy&pd_rd_wg=CBDNU&pf_rd_p=6...
sounds like ground loop interference. try adding this to the mic line and see if it removes it.
i've only ever had ground loop hum coming through speakers and this fixed it, i supposed it could also affect mic
The isolator only should do the trick. I want to say I got it off Amazon.
Edit: Here is the one I used
Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vWdnCb5EV24V2
Get a ground loop isolator to use on the aux cable. That should take care of the noise you are hearing.
Here is the one I use: Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SBShCbYDKMRTZ
I can't explain ground loops very well, but I know that's what causes them.
I've used this in the past to fix it, there are cheaper ones, but I have experience with this specific one
If you are still having this problem I can not recommend getting a Ground Loop isolator enough.
It creates an isolation point which breaks ground loops (the cause of the interference) this thing is pretty much a $10 get out of jail free card for tons of audio quirks.
You can probably use a ground loop isolator to keep the DC voltage away from your guitar.
Ordinarily, a computer microphone is not designed for a guitar, but can be used with one. Hope this works for you.
I suspect you're running into a ground loop issue with your inputs to the mixer. Is the buzzing sound tied to specific channels? As in, can you turn down the ch3/4 fader or ch5/6 fader knob and the buzz goes away?
If that's the case, the only way I know of to get rid of that is to use a ground loop isolator. They're like $10 a pop on amazon... this is the one I use for basically everything.
Full disclosure, I don't own this yet but it has good reviews so your mileage my vary, I have no personal experience with this item.
One of these completely killed all the noise from my computer (mainboard, graphics card and mouse noise). Cost less than $10 delivered from Amazon, plugs straight in, easy peasy.
Could be a ground loop issue. I currently have the JBL LSR305 setup with the Micca Origen G2 DAC and had to buy a ground loop isolator to cut the noise out. I had the same issue with a set of KRK Rokit 5's and the ground loop isolator solved the problem with those as well. These probably wouldnt have as much of an issue if they were setup with an audio interface and balanced cables instead, but for our setup, the ground loop isolator is your best bet. Some say that ground loop isolators change the quality of the sound, but I haven't noticed that one bit.
This is the one I purchased from amazon:
generally you want to use the ac97 audio for the vm, which still has the occasional crackle (not bad, useable/playable), but a better solution is to get a cheap usb sound card, pass it to the vm, and use a 3.5mm audio cable to send the signal from it to the audio line-in(usually colored blue) on your system, then listen to the line-in via loopback on pulseaudio. you may also need a ground loop isolator:
another note when using the ac97 audio is youll have to install the drivers in compatibility mode as win10 does not have drivers for it
Static is probably a grounding issue with the front headphone jack. The front headphone jack is typically part of the case that gets plugged into the motherboard. There is a high chance of it being of low quality.
Use a USB audio source (like a USB headset or a DAC) or use the rear headphone jack (which is part of the motherboard).
If you want to use the front headphone jack, this will most likely solve the problem (I used US Amazon since I couldn't find a similar product on the Netherlands Amazon website).
It may not be the same issue as I had in my old car, but try one of these.
It’s a ground loop interrupter and it got rid of the buzzing I used to have when using the aux. Like night and day difference.
I recently bought the Micca PB42x and am having some problems that perhaps could be fixed. The speaker which contains the internal amp is making a whisling/whining sound whenever it is on. It doesn't matter if I have audio playing, nor does the volume of the audio affect it. I have it connected via the 3.5mm cable that came with it and the two speakers are joined via the speaker wire that came with it.
My current set-up is not ideal (I will take and upload pictures after work). I think that I might be getting some noise or perhaps there is a ground loop somewhere. I purchased this but I did not notice any noticeable difference, not even a little bit. Maybe the ground loop isolator I bought is faulty or I attempted to fix something that wasn't the problem.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Almost certainly ground loop noise. Something like this between the computer and the receiver should work.
Noob indeed, but great to illustrate how to approach signal chain issues.
Always start with the signal source device and media. Most modern devices are capable of reading and outputting a variety of audio formats. If you have stereo speakers, that is the output setting you want in your player's settings. You now need to know which physical connections output that stereo signal. It is possible for that output to be RCA usually red and white and/or 3.5mm audio out. The 3.5 mm might say line out or headphone out. Headphone out is probably (always?) amplified and adjustable using the volume on the source. Line out is not amplified and adjustable only post-output (almost always. I had a Peavey powered mixer that broke this rule).
So now you have speakers or headphones you want to connect. If speakers, are they self-powered? If so, do they have connectors matching your outputs? If so, use the appropriate male-to male patch cable. If not, can you use an RCA to 3.5mm adapter cable? Or 3.5mm to RCA adapter? Chances are good for one of these. But if audio is HDMI only, use something like the device linked earlier to create it.
Now have a listen. If it sounds good, you're golden. If not, does it sound like your content is being obscured by white noise? If so, you need a ground loop device. I bought one on Amazon recently for about $10. I will try to find a link. It is also possible if the output is headphone/amplified, to need an attenuator.
Lastly, when getting help on connection issues, it always cannot hurt to include all devices you want in your signal chain including source, output and processing devices.
Edit: link to ground loop device... Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
That can be prevented with a ground loop isolator on the OP-1 output.
I've had laptops and cell phones make that noise while charging as well, but the OP-1 does have a pretty loud whine.
I use this in my Kia at the moment. Works great! Wish it has a forward/rewind part at times, but it plays pretty well otherwise.
Also get a noise isolator in case you want to charge things at the same time.
Probably is interference, unlikely to be any way to eliminate it without replacing the GPU, but when I've had similar issues in the past these things have always worked for me.
I'm not 100% sure what you want to do. I assume you just want all your devices to play to your headphones and all the devices are in the same room.
For the second link I put, you would plug the RCA cables from your consoles into it(Most consoles allow your to output audio through both hdmi and RCA at the same time afaik, if not get a hdmi audio extractor).
You would put a headphone splitter into the auxillary jack in it, and then get RCA to 3.5mm adapters. Then you can plug all your devices into it and they will all play to your headphones.
Just keep everything plugged into the same surge protector to avoid any ground loop problems. In the case you do get a ground loop problem from plugging all your devices into the same device, this will fix it. https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1514942583&sr=8-1&keywords=ground+loop+isolator
I personally run all my devices to my wired headphones using headphone splitters. I got into wireless headphones relatively recently, so I only have my desktop for audio at the moment. If I wanted to have all the devices play to my wireless headphones, I'd do what I said above. It should work just fine.
There could potentially be some sort of DC voltage being put through to the left channel of the earphones. If that's the case, something like this would help prevent the earphones from being cooked. that is also assuming that the DAC in the chromebook isn't damaged.
When you say external speakers, are you talking about the ones built in to the laptop? Just want to make sure we're on the same page.
For the wireless headphones you've used, did they use a USB receiver? Usually that'll stop these types of issues, as the receiver is also a sound card, and placing it outside the laptop gets it away from most interference. If they were bluetooth, it's harder to say.
I'd look for a ground loop isolator like this one. If you're using wired headphones or separate speakers connected to the headphone jack, they'll often eliminate weird noises, and they're cheap enough that you haven't broken the bank if they don't work. The specific one I linked is just an example, you can get them cheaper, and they're all the same.
You may be right that you are getting an impulse from one system to another. This can happen because both systems have DC power supplies referenced to different grounds; this usually manifests itself as a hum or whine, especially when you hook a phone to a car audio system. Although not the same problem, the same solution should apply, so pick yourself up an isolator:
Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nQqsAbY5DAGMR
(One of the first results on amazon, pick your fav brand)
These prevent DC voltages from conducting through the cable, while still allowing the audio signals to pass un-attenuated.
Outlet is probably on the same breaker so the loop is there but probably further away. Not too sure. This might help.
It's could be ground loop noise. Just get yourself an isolator if it ends up bothering you.
It depends on which connector you’re using. If it’s just the 3.5mm jack then the mpow one will be just fine:
Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vVVaAbDX5JECM
Perhaps you need a ground loop isolator like this.
You might also want to test whether your computer is actually connected to ground.
Some of my pitfalls and related tips:
Not backing up my micro SD card every now and then! I now back up somewhat regularly.
Trying to get multiple wireless controllers working with reicast, the Dreamcast emulator. Definitely start with wired controllers - I’m still figuring this one out.
Trying to get audio working properly though the Pi3’s audio jack without crackle, or alternatively trying to install a USB audio jack to get around it. Ended up using the Pi3’s onboard audio jack with an $8 ground loop isolator.
Rewiring my arcade setup to make button zero be “A” and button one be “B” so these can be used consistently in emulationstation and the rgui.
Gotcha, sorry - I didn't notice that you said before that the monitor had no speakers. Some monitors do, and I assumed you had trouble outputting to those. In which case - ignore the "audio through HDMI" advice.
But yeah - if you have any headphones or old computer speakers, try plugging those in. Then go to that said audio menu and select AUX or whatever isn't HDMI. Sorry, not in front of my Pi now.
The unfortunate thing about the RPi3's audio jack is that it's kind of notoriously bad and tends to output "crackly" audio. People have different solutions for that. I personally ended up using this $8 ground loop noise isolator in line with a speaker to get rid of the crackling. A number of folks on the subreddit use a USB audio encoder avoid using the RPi3's audio jack entirely, and I tried that, but after a month or so of dabbling with Linux audio drivers I could never get the damn thing to work.
So... yeah. Welcome to the can of worms that is raspberry Pi audio.
Thanks awwsyn. Noise Isolators? Like Ground Hum Eliminators? Did your experience present a similar sound? My incredibly limited experience indicated to me that the ground hum sound (which those helped with) were 50/60hz, based on where you are located. Again, VERY limited experience.
EDIT: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2 these things? Might have to check it out, hadn't seen these ones at my local audio shop.
I had the same exact problem. The speakers plugged into my sound card would produce this awful coil whine that was terrible while playing WoW or Marvel Heroes. I built a new PC and the sound stopped whenever I used the front headphones jack, but the back still produced this issue.
I bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I no longer have the coil whine coming out of my speakers/headphones. Pretty sure any ground loop isolator would work.
def sounds like a grounding issue then! I had the same problem with my ceiling speakers.
You can buy devices that kill and solve this grounding feedback problem. This device worked perfectly for me. You place it between your phone and the car stereo system and it should solve your problem.
hope this helps!
MPow does make a Noise filter. I use it and it does work well for the problem of noise. In terms of battery, I turn mine off each time I leave the car (occasionally forget) alas for extended use I just plug the power cable in.
I hear what you're saying though. Since I have the newer one I don't think the issues with it are as extensive as the prior generation ones.
My HiFime ES9023 DAC has a slight hiss when I put my volume above 60%. Does anyone have any experiences with a ground loop isolator like this or have any other solutions?
This is true. I find that if I set my phone's volume all the way up and then just use the nav unit to raise or lower the volume it really only drops off in between songs if there's a few second gap. I also had some interference issues when charging my phone while using it to play music so I had to get a ground isolator. I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_yzgNSwtis9Yhi
Works like a charm.
> whenever it is on that channel, there is a large, noticeable amount of background static coming through the speakers
If it's interference that's being picked up in the cable, something like this might get rid of it:
If it's an issue with your stereo, it probably won't help.
Glad to help.
BTW if you what to use a usb powered bluetooth receiver (no built in battery) and you get noise it is likely caused by ground loop. This filter fixes that. It is about the size of a bic lighter.
IMHO just use a battery powered to avoid the ground loop. Looks less frankenspeaker as well.
Ah yes I forgot about the mic... So I guess I'll go for the X1s anyway and plug the mic into my motherboard with a jack extension cable and hope for the best.
Just to double check, if that causes a gound loop, a noise isolator like the Mpow one plugged between the X1s and the X2 would work fine right?
Thanks again for being so available, it's greatly appreciated.
If wrapping the cable around a ferrite choke (cheaper) doesn't reduce the noise to an acceptable level, the next step up would be a transformer based ground isolation which almost certainly would. Amazon (and other places) sell simple plugin versions:
I took the sub around with the RCA to AUX plugged into my phone to test. The sub will hum in the bedroom even when nothing else is connected to the outlet. I have this MPOW GLI connected to the TV and the speakers plugged into it. I thought this would correct the hum I was dealing with as everything was pointing to a ground loop, but the hum persists.
I recommend NOT using GameCapture to stream. As usual, the tier list goes:
I'm Just Getting Started: OBS Studio
I Want To Do Better: XSplit Personal
Time To Get Serious: Gameshow
Professional: XSplit Premium, Wirecast
XSplit will let you choose to play the audio from the xbox through your PC's main audio output.
Of course, the best way to do this is to route the audio output from your Xbox through the Aux input of an Astro Mixamp, remembering that if they're connected to the same power source you should use a $10 Ground Loop Isolator to avoid a mild buzzing sound. But don't worry, that's just for you and it doesn't come through to the stream.
I'm going to do a 2016 wrapup article detailing all this soon.
I found another post where you recommended this - https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1477489703&sr=8-1&keywords=mpow+isolator&linkCode=sl1&tag=zeos-20&linkId=0c9e535eaed206c5b6d1b336e26b3557
Thanks for all you do man, I am a fan of yours now, been watching your videos for the last 20 hours.
Thanks for the extra suggestions. I also have the X2s and agree they are incredible sounding headphones. If OP has the money to burn then these take the spot of the SHP9500 easy.
For the mic, I prefer the boom mic since I had issues with my keyboard getting picked up on my Blue Snowball while I had it. I even tried putting dampers on my MX Brown keyboard to get rid of the clack. GREAT sound quality, but it picked up literally everything.
As for ground loop hums I've never had a problem with that but something like the Mpow Ground Loop Isolator is a great solution. Using one in my car as it is an incredibly noisy environment for EMI.
You're right, neither the TV nor speakers have ground on their power plug. I'm in an apartment so I don't have multiple floors, but I've tried other outlets and it's all the same result. I believe it must be a grounding issue because when the TV is unplugged, the buzzing goes away completely.
I don't know the official term of the cable, but it has a red and white plug going into the amp and a single headphone jack going into the TV. Would it make a difference if I had a red/white plug for both the TV and speaker? My xbox is occupying the red white jacks in the TV which is why I plugged the speaker into the headphone jack.
Would something simple like this suffice? https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475195195&sr=8-1&keywords=ground+loop
I believe my odac dont like my ground loop isolator but without one its unbearable to use. In the mean time I'll just use the micca until I can figure out some other way to eliminate my ground loop. I've tried jitterbug and the decrapifer thing but those didn't do anything.
https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-System-Stereo/dp/B019393MV2 this is what fixed my ground loop. 10 bucks
I have the Odac and had the same issue with my A500 but the https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
solved my issue. I was just wondering about the usb powered dacs. Maybe zeos can make a sticky thread on fixes for ground loop in PC audio.
This was a issue for me. I wanted something to use on my deck and yard. I just used a first gen solar Eton Ruckus. Plug in a Chromecast audio into its USB charge port and aux port. I needed a noise filter because of a ground loop. This is the one I used, it's about the size of the packets of Lifesavers candy. My ruckus has a pocket, for lack of better term, that holds everything.
Sugru or Velcro can also attach it to your speaker. The other thing I had was a short micro USB cable to power it. It's definitely less than elegant but it's functional.
Edit: I actually recommend against getting the built-in Chromecast speakers. I'll tell you why, I was into airplay speakers the manufacturers never update them. Some of my earlier airplay speakers barely work with the new operating system. Luckily they do work well still with airfoil and android airplay apps like allstream and AirAudio. If Google actually makes it's own; I would buy one. Or somebody makes one that you can dock a Chromecast audio I'd buy that.
Edit: fixed text (used dictation)
Do you happen to be charging your phone at the same time? If yes, you've got yourself a ground loop.
Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio System/Home Stereo with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ou1axbFQ3499E
Happened to me too. Might be an issue with your stereo, or whatever you have connected which has been unearthed by your phone. I bought a ground loop isolator and the problem went again completely.
Oh no! I'll have to keep an eye on mine, then. In the meantime, I think I'll try this aux cord that's supposed to help remove that noise. There's bluetooth aux adapters out there too, I just actually have a bluetooth stereo (that supports calls and not streaming, which I didn't realize I would use when I bought it 6 years ago I guess, whoops) so it would be annoying to use it, get calls through it and not the stereo, and not be able to use the mic in my car for them. But it may be worth looking into for you?
You have a ground loop, you need a noise reducing 3.5mm cable. Here's an adapter that'll do it that's prime on Amazon. This is a common problem for cars when using a charger+your aux jack to your stereo.
The Micca Origen MIGHT solve your issue but if your power hum extends to your USB it will pass over. I ended up using a Ground Loop Isolator to fix my issues but that can mess with the frequency response.
You may want to try this if using the other cable doesn't work.
I was trying to use the USB power on my Soundfreaq units and was getting crackling noise. Used these and the crackling went away.
I just dealt with this issue myself by using a ground loop isolator on the headphone plug part:
This actually just arrived about an hour ago and appears to have solved the problem entirely.
My setup now is BoomPro > headphone/mic splitter, headphone plug goes to this isolator which goes to my Monoprice DAC/Amp, mic plug goes to this little USB adapter which made the mic louder and clearer.
I was dealing with some noise and volume issues in the mic, and some noise in the headphones, and these two things have fixed both of those and made the mic sound much better. The ground loop isolator cut the headphone volume by about 20% (just guessing, haven't measured anything) but I had plenty of room to turn up my amp to account for that and still am only at like 60% output volume.
That is exactly what I do. However, it's VERY LIKELY you will get an annoying buzzing sound called a ground loop.
I bought a cheap Ground Loop Isolator to solve it.
?? if you watch the video and read the comments you'll see.... not sure but I think that's what they are??
Yes. BUT! make sure you have a ground loop noise isolator. Otherwise you will get a bunch of static. they're about 10 bucks on amazon.
Plug an aux cable into your switch then into the ground loop isolator. then plug the ground loop isolator into the mic port (usually pink).
I had your exact same problem with two different studio monitors. I have an external DAC and that did not help the solution at all. Most likely you are getting a ground loop. Get a ground loop isolator off of amazon and try that first. It is the cheapest solution and that has the highest chance of working over getting a new DAC, using different outlets, getting an external power supply, etc. as I have tried all those other options and they did nothing.
You can get the Mpow Ground Loop Isolator from amazon here for $9:
My man, thank you so much for the quick reply and targeted thought. I think this is exactly the same advice I read before with someone else but, as I mentioned, couldn't find the thread. Do you think when restoring the head unit, cables are crossed and causing that (and if so, which ones would that be)? Is this something grounding tape/copper foil tape could be use to insulate the power cables or AUX cables and it remedy it? Thank you.
Edit: Do you think something like this could do the trick? https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=ground+loop+isolator&qid=1595958072&sr=8-3
The 305s sound fine at low volume, but sound more 'full' at mid volume.
I use a pair for my desktop, I wouldnt listen to them at full volume from my desktop since that would be far too loud to be comfortable.
If you're going to use amplified speakers like these on a computer, be aware that you might need to add in a $10 line noise filter / isolator to filter out the electrical noise from your computer, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2
Yeah, this is the one I used on my system and it worked like a charm.
Try using some sort of ground feedback eliminator of sort. I am not 100% educated on sound. But thats what it sounds like is happening. Usually it runs inline with your sound cable if youre using a standard 3.5mm stereo headphone cable.
quick search brought this up.
It is a ground loop that causes that. Unfortunately most dual power USB chargers will do this, you also will find it on Battery powered Bluetooth speakers where you use the charging port to power a Chromecast audio.
You'll need something like this
Edit: I have not personally tried the Kensington one. I couldn't find the one that I have on the Amazon UK site.
You may find it on eBay. Here it is:
You could also get one for the 1/4in jack instead, mine was $8 on amazon and works great:
You might be able to get a cheap ground loop isolator on Amazon that would fix the issue, like this
Did your issue sound like this?
I had the same exact issue with both my KRK and JBL monitors where it sounded fine with my phone, but not when plugged into my computer.
I used the MPOW ground loop isolator from Amazon for both and it worked like a charm. Only cost about $10.
I have the Uno Drum and the noise can be an issue (https://cgi.ikmultimedia.com/ikforum/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=17329).
It sounded like perhaps grounding noise (and the manual mentions that this may be an issue). I followed the advice in the thread I linked and picked up a ground loop noise isolation cable (https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2). This essentially solved the issue for me. You can still hear some minor background noise on some of the longer sampled hits (like cymbals) at higher volumes, but part of why I bought the unit was to get a cheap analog drum machine (with distortion and compressor) with somewhat dirty 12bit samples that I could pitch around. Personally, I think for the cost it was totally worth it and I have no intention of selling it. Of course, your experiences may vary but I hope that this helps!
it's prolly a ground loop issue. If it's fixed via sub I guess it's fixed?
But if you want to you can get yourself a ground loop isolator to see if that fixed your issue
A $10 inline 1/8 inch noise filter from amazon fixes this for 90+% of the people with this issue.
If you google all the previous questions about this you should find the results.
just a cheap one off amazon. LINK
This is my go to for fixing what you describe. If this doesn't work then you'll need a power conditioner, they range from $40 to $300. I like Furman brand but you may find a better one for your needs.
I use these, they work well for me. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/
Very common with home built PCs.
Try a ground loop isolator first -
Yep, they exist. Best used as a test so you can find the problem, but sometimes just the best way to do things because they are cheap and easy.
Ill try my best to explain how I have my GOXLR setup for my speakers, wireless headsets, etc.
Aux Cable \ Line Out from the GOXLR -> Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator (Where to Buy) -> Aux Cable \ Line In Jack on your motherboard | Digital Optical Cable from your motherboard -> Digital Optical 1:3 Splitter Box (Where to buy) -> Goes to speakers AND/OR a Bluetooth Transmitter | Aux Cable Headphone Jack from the GOXLR -> Wired Headset
Im trying to find an old video on how since Audio is the most complex thing in the world and dm you it lmfao. Also, Wireless Headset with GOXLR will always no mater how hard you try WILL have some sort of latency that is noticeable
I use these on all of my USB powered gear:
Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Wait do you have a loop isolator on that line?
A $12 ground loop will probably fix this.
Actually what you are hearing is interference you can remove it by using one of these.
Ground loop isolator to fix noise.
Maybe you need a ground loop isolator, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_v-ytFbTPMKQRH
Same thing happened to me. I eventually bought a Ground Loop Isolater and it almost completely gets rid of the popping. Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2. It helps a lot, and I actually found myself without a headache lol. The only other problem was that sometimes my friends would hear a "chopper gunner" sound when I constantly move my chat link.
what /u/gbreadgrl is hearing through vehicle speakers is known as a 'ground loop' and commonly happens when you use an audio device through an Aux jack that is powered via a DC plug, and ties the power negative from the power to the frame of the device, to the ground of the aux cable.
It can also be the result of a poorly installed system, amps, speakers, etc.
If you are a victim of the first option (aux device ground loop) they make ground lifters as a dirty fix for it.
If it's the result of a poorly installed audio system/amps/speakers/subs/etc, they need to fix the install so all the grounds go back to one, single, point.
Hey all. I did some searching around the sub and the FAQs and didn't see anything about this (surprisingly) so I'm gonna ask here.
My PC setup has a 60Hz buzz through my speakers. I have 2x Klipsch R-41M bookshelf speakers hooked up to an SMSL SA-50 amp via 12AWG speaker cables with RCA connectors. The amp then plugs into the green audio 2.5mm plug on my PC (no dedicated audio card, just the integrated audio from the motherboard).
My old speakers did not have this buzz, they were cheap M-Audio AV40s with the integrated amp (the amp died, hence why I replaced them).
The buzz only happens through the speakers - if I plug in my headphones, I do not hear the buzz in the headphones but the speakers still buzz. The buzz gets louder when I turn the volume up on the amp, and gets quieter when I turn the volume down on the amp. Volume settings within Windows on my PC do not affect the buzz volume. If I unplug the 2.5mm plug from the back of my computer, the buzz stops (unless my fingers are touching the connector, then it quietly buzzes). If I turn off, or unplug the power from the amp, the buzz stops.
I have a UPS between all of my PC components, and I've tried plugging the power for the amp directly into the wall and through the UPS, and buzz is present and unchanged in either configuration.
I recently replaced my PC. On my old setup, I could get the buzz to stop by wiggling the 2.5mm connector around some. On my new PC, it is persistent and any amount of cable manipulation seems to have no effect the buzzing.
I bought one of those cheap 2.5mm to 2.5mm isolators (this one), and it definitely reduces the volume of the buzz, but it is still present and noticeable.
What do I do?
I'm considering getting something like this: https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-Ground-Isolator-Filter/dp/B088C4YX7Y/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=rca+ground+isolator&qid=1608821007&sr=8-6
But I don't really want to do that without knowing if it will do anything. I also thought about replacing the amp, but if it's noise caused by a ground loop then I don't think a new amp will do anything.
Yeah, it's kind of notorious for not being a great audio output, because making a high quality, isolated audio out would drive up the costs for making the IO board by a lot.
You do options to improve this though.
This happens on my Arctis 7. This fixes it if youre using the line out functionality.
These are the ones I use, and yes you just plug them into each cable and then into your sound card
Personally I use popular [Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator](https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2) for hiss minimizing.
Also I liked this recent video method, but didn't try by myself.
When connected to my Mobo they had a hum and I got an ground loop isolator and it made a huge difference.
If that doesn't work or you want other controls then an audio interface is nice.
If you want a physical volume knob and this JBL nanopatch bundle comes with your cables
This actually isnt a issue with the mixamp or anything astro actually. What you mangeded to describe and diagnose perfectly actually is ground loop noise.
That humming you are hearing is actually caused by a ground loop and buying a ground loop noise isloator will resolve the issue $10 on amazon small and wont even notice its in line https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Ground+Loop+Isolator&qid=1605137679&sr=8-3
Here are a few great options:
Edifier S3000 Pro
SVS Prime Wireless
JBL 306p MkII
I’ve owned the JBL’s and can attest to the hiss. It is pretty annoying; however, if you can get over that, they actually sound pretty amazing for the price. You could get a ground loop isolator I have linked below and that will usually take care of the problem.
Get a ground loop isolator from Amazon.
I got this one and this exact problem went away. $9 well spent.
Sometimes an audio interface connected to the studio monitors with balanced cables will solve the issue, but it is not guaranteed. A ground loop isolator is more likely to do the trick. For mine, I got the Mpow Ground Loop Isolator from Amazon here:
You will need a dual TRS to 3.5mm cable also if you do not already have one. I suspect that if you connected this straight to your motherboard, then you already do. Either way, here is the link for that:
This solution worked perfectly for me and the noise went to complete silence. If it works for you as well, make sure you post it and let people know. A lot of people on here have that same issue and ask the same questions and it would be good to have some solutions thrown on here if there are any.
Is the noise only audible when connected to your computer? Does is also happen when connected to other sources such as your phone?
Ok, what sort of information? Just going to drop what I know below.
This is how it's set up for livestreaming: https://imgur.com/a/YCShZBi
The mixer is a Yamaha AG06. The mic is an AT2035 XLR mic. The background noise it's picking up is just noise from the environment around me; computers, etc.
I have ground loop isolators on the audio coming in from PC #1, PC # 2, and the monitor.
Unlisted video of set up: https://youtu.be/d-yJhT3DE_0
I also have a 5v ac power adapter going to the mixer, instead of just the USB power.
Here is a Twitch VOD of where I was getting into messing with the settings: https://www.twitch.tv/videos/345339741?t=01h08m51s You can clearly hear the background noise.
These are the settings on the mixer itself: https://i.imgur.com/UQXIjHZ.jpg
Gaming PC (PC #1)
Streaming PC (PC #2)
Accessories / Misc.
Cables being used
Here you go! Amazon
It’s very likely this. Mine did the same thing until I bought an isolator on Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2
Yup, you got it! My guess is you want to use Discord to chat right? Another method is to connect aux (from base station) to your smartphone and use the Discord app. This way you can chat in game and on Discord simultaneously. However, you will also need a noise loop isolator to negate the buzzing sound. I've posted link for what I have, it's worked well for me so far.
If anyone ever ends up looking at this thread I used the following device to sort of solve the problem: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
It slightly lowers the quality of audio output out of one of the machines but so far seems to completely remove the buzz.
So, I don't know if it's the same issue I had some time ago (sounds very similar to what I experienced - the buzzing/crackling noise every time I tried to play a game), but if it has anything to do with the ground loop noise (like it did in my case), this inexpensive Ground Loop Noise Isolator completely fixed it for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ - I guess you could give it a shot before investing into a more expensive solution (i.e. a sound card).
You shouldn't be getting much rx noise from your vehicle on a VHF/UHF (your cb is different and will totally get alternator noise). Is your audio going into your vehicles sound system? Then you need an audio transformer.
I use this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/
Ground loop. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hPaGFbVK4YS00
3.5mm Ground loop isolator.
Put it somewhere between the Switch and PC Aux port and it should reduce or nullify the interference.
FWIW I don't know how the quality varies among ground loop isolators, but things like this exist for ~$10 https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Ground+Loop+Isolator&qid=1601079309&sr=8-3 or this if you're already using RCAs for that run https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S9X5KJB/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzSkk5S1NJSU02QUJVJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODQ2OTk3MzRBSldQODVUMTJMRSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTQ3MDc0Mjg3NERUTUZZUUdBJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsMiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Sounds like a ground loop issue - https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2.
Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZFxyFb8F7Q4PE
Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2nQxFb3TC089N
This might help with your issue. YouTube it if you need further info.
If you go with one of the bluetooth receivers, make sure you get one with built in ground loop noise isolation. If you don't, you'll get a high pitched hum that changes with your RPM because both the bluetooth receiver and the stereo are being powered by the same source.
If you can't find a receiver with it built in, you can also pick up an in-line isolator like this: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/
Also, be careful how you power the bluetooth receiver. If you decide to use the 12v outlet in the passenger footwell be aware that that outlet will always have power, even when the car is off. You can easily come back to a dead battery if you leave accessories plugged in there.
There's an easy fix for that if you're comfortable doing a minor mod with your fuses. I followed this guide: https://www.planet-9.com/threads/bluetooth-phone-auto-connect-with-key-insertion-finally.106153/. Now my receiver powers on and off with the car, and I don't have to worry about it draining the battery.
I have one of these coming Wednesday, hopefully it helps.
Try amazon smile to donate to a charity of your choice automatically at no cost to you!
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here's the Ground Loop Isolator I got off Amazon and for reference here are the power line adapters that were the ultimate culprits.
It is a grounding issue. Happens a lot when connecting studio monitors (especially the JBL's) to your computer. What would help is if you got an actual audio interface to connect to the monitors. If you don't want to pay for an audio interface right now, you could go the cheap solution and get a ground loop isolator. I got this one on Amazon and it worked like a charm:
You will also need cables like these if you don't already have them:
You should try a ground loop isolator. Here is one from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_3?crid=HU8H590TGA6U&dchild=1&keywords=ground+loop+isolator&qid=1586444864&s=electronics&sprefix=ground+loo%2Celectronics%2C188&sr=1-3
You should plug the isolator into the switch and then plug your headphones into the isolator.
I suggest a ground loop lift/isolator.
$10 at Amazon
Ground loop noise. Can be fixed with ground loop isolator.
Get a ground loop isolator. I use one in my car, makes a huge difference.
Perfect. This should work for you
At this point, you should be able to freely switch your default audio output device in Windows between the monitor (Display port) and the headset (USB). When it's on displayport, all sound (Switch and PC) will route through the monitor speakersm. When it's on USB, all sound will route through the headphones.
One additional thing you can do to make the change between inputs easier is a program called Audio Switch. I made a post about it on the Windows10 sub.
That Windows app will let you quickly switch between your enabled audio devices with a single click.
One other thing you are going to want somewhere in your setup is a ground isolator loop. Without it, you'll get a bunch of electrical interference which will produce a lot of static. I use this one
Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CDIPDbHKKN9QP
Let me know if that works for you
(Wrote this on my phone so sorry for long form links and probably less than stellar formatting)
It's one of these guys https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2
Here is how they work http://www.tech-faq.com/ground-loop-isolator.html
If you pick one up off amazon to try and it doesn't work their return policy is great for these purposes.
I have a Gen1 (maybe gen2, idk) A40 and Mixamp that Ive had since 2013.
I had the humming in my headset for a while and I tried many different configurations to get rid of the hum to no avail.
Several years ago, I built a Y-cable that went from my mixamp (miniB end) to my PC for data only (USB A end), and another USB A end for power only to plug into the wall. The trick here is that the ground must still go to all three connectors. If you don't connect the ground on the data to PC end, the PC will do some very weird stuff and not recognize the Mixamp, or it will drop out and come back up, and give USB errors.
The Y-cable I built stopped all noise. Solder splicing USB wires is very tedious due to the very small wire gauge, and using heat shrink wasn't easy since the outer insulation on the cables I bought to cut up and modify melted fairly easily, even on low heat setting on my heat gun.
I built a new system at the end of 2017, namely with a new motherboard (old motherboard was GA-Z87X-UD4H), and I moved to another home shortly afterwards. In the move, I ended up losing the Y-Cable I built. So I decided to use the Astro USB cable it comes with til I could locate the cable I built.
Come to find out that there was no buzzing in the headset with the Astro cable connected to my new system's motherboard (ASRock Fatality X399 Gaming). So I just never ended up looking for my custom cable.
I recently discovered that now there is a slight buzzing/humming in the mic output. I can't hear it, but when I've played with others online, they say they can hear it. I made a recording using OBS so I can hear the severity of the noise. When playing it back, I can hear it very clearly. Its not very loud, but it is definitely noticeable, and Id be irritated having to hear it from someone else over my speakers or headset.
Im thinking of trying an inline ground loop noise isolator for the 3.5mm to the headset that I saw on Amazon, which also has some questions and good reviews about using it with the Astro Headsets and Mixamps. https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2
If this doesnt work, then I will try a more expensive USB noise filter next.
That mixer was actually the first mixer I bought, too. It started my long, expensive journey into audio hardware specifically for 2 PC streaming setups. I tried many mixers, got frustrated and tried to downscale to just an interface, got frustrated with that and tried Voicemeeter but hated that.
If you're budget is around 200-400$ for the mixer, you can go with a ZED 10 FX. This was a popular mixer, with streamers like Lirik and Waffle using it. Waffle might even still use it. It has the ability to essentially produce 2 output mixes using a technique called mix minus. The mixer as a master mix output and an AUX/FX output. The mixer also has the ability to send inputs to master output or FX output or both - this is what enables this mixer to do the mix minus technique. You're basically abusing the FX output.
Going the mixer route like above will result in needing a lot of cables, "buzz boxes", etc. The ZED is also pretty big and takes up a lot of desk space. It gets messy, but it's all true-analog if that's your goal.
If you don't care about hearing the audio from your stream PC, you can easily just buy a line splitter and split your mic line - one to gaming PC the other to streaming PC. But, I imagine you want to hear the audio from your stream PC, too. You could just use a standard 3.5mm cable from stream PC back to gaming PC and then use software like Voicemeeter to mix them into your headphones. I did this for a bit, but I'm not a fan of Voicemeeter because it kept randomly not working for me.
You could always go the Voicemeeter VBAN route, and just pipe everything over your LAN using their VBAN feature. But for me this seemed to break a lot and just annoyed me. It's neat though and requires no cables or mixing hardware.
In the end, the best thing that I've found and settled on and currently use is just a higher end audio interface that comes with some really great mixing software. The interface I use is the Babyface Pro. Alone, this is just a glorified audio interface, but I also use a Digiface USB which is a digital audio interface. I found these through Lirik, who uses this now.
So, in the end, my setup is as so ...
With this setup, which is essentially just 2 audio interfaces, you can isolate basically any audio device into a recording channel and send it to and from the Digiface / Babyface. I've got channels that only I can hear, channels my stream can hear, mixes of channels, etc. I have my game console on its own channel, etc. It all "just works" and you can have MANY output channels instead of struggling to achieve only two. For example, the Digiface that I use has 66 channels.
I do also have a Cloudlifter in my chain, but the Babyface Pro is good enough to give gain to my mic (sm7b). I'm tempted to take the Cloudlifter out and free up even more desk space.
Audio is by far the biggest annoyance when moving to a two PC setup. Hope this helps.
Grounding and ground loop are two different things.
You need something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/
It can however also just be noise from the computers PSU. So listen to the youtube video again see if its 50hz or 60hz hum. If its not those frequencies its some other stuff buzzing.
Edit: before you buy a ground loop isolator put the amplifier on a different power outlet. It may fix it.
Yeah, I got this one
Some ways to troubleshoot audio issues is ensure that your Focusrite and your streaming PC are plugged into the same power source (Differing power sources can cause line noise), your XLR cable could be shitty, your audio device could be failing, the gain on your Focusrite Scarlett could be too high, the audio device settings could be crappy.
One last thing it could be is to go into SLOBS, then right click your microphone setting, then see if there is a GAIN filter that is applied. Once I accidentally added a GAIN filter while messing around to my microphone in SLOBS and it was causing issues. The only filters your microphone should have is a Noise Suppression and a Noise Gate Filter (Or Alternatively a VST filter if you're really savvy).
If it's a wiring issue then:
Ground Loop Isolator should solve your problem. It's likely your motherboard audio device causing issues. A 3.5mm input into your PC is getting line noise. Ground Loop Isolators are super cheap, you can order them on Amazon or go to a local audio store and pick one up for <$10.
This is what I use for the inputs into my streaming PC that have this noise you're referring too (Has many ways it can be caused), it eliminates it without any noticeable reduction in audio quality.
A ground loop isolator like this may help:
If it doesn’t, you can always return it back to Amazon. Worth a try.
You hear a loud buzz in the recordings? Sounds like a simple ground loop issue. PS4 is not grounded, PCs are. When you connect an analog cable in between them, it causes a ground loop which causes buzzing.
If I'm correct in my assumptions, there are 2 solutions to this:
1) If your aux cable is connected to your PS4 controller, make sure it's wireless. If the PS4 controller is plugged into the PS4 via USB it will pass through the ground loop.
2) If wireless controller isn't an option, or the aux cable is plugged into the PS4 itself using some sort of HDMI audio extractor, you'd simply need a ground loop isolator - they're 10 bucks: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ground+loop+isolator&qid=1556058688&s=gateway&sr=8-3
I ordered this from amazon and it solved all my bluetooth feedback issues
i AM late but get an aux cable and this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_detailpage_o02_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
because hdmi makes this buzzing noise and this stops it so get these two, then plug in the ground isolator into line in on the back of your pc then plug in an aux cable into the ground isolator then plug it into your switch. Then you will hear the audio from your pc!
I ended up buying a ground loop noise isolator and the issue is fixed. I hear occasional popping, but it's rare. This is the isolator I bought, only $10.
AT2035 XLR mic + Yamaha AG06 picking up background noise. How to eliminate background noise and separate XLR mic from all other audio?
I'd also like to separate out the mic in programs like GoToMeeting/Skype/Discord/OBS (Open Broadcaster) etc etc so that it doesn't pick up my desktop audio and such for those listening, and so I can have more granular control over the mic channel vs the other channels.
I tried using AsynchronousAudioRouter (SAR) with Reaper, but just kept getting an error saying "There was an error opening the audio hardware: Error initializing ASIO buffers" even after rebooting multiple times, so I just uninstalled both of them, as it seemed like I was getting nowhere with it after tinkering with it for an hour. Maybe I'm just not doing it correctly? If so, maybe someone could guide me on what would be the correct settings? I'm completely new to audio gear, software, & setups.
I'd like for the other channels not to include the mic, so then I can select them separately in OBS for instance and apply different filters to them for noise suppression etc.
Not sure if this is even possible. If it is, I'd definitely need a step by step on how to do it, as I'm quite new to audio stuff in general.
Complete Specs, for the sake of being thorough:
I had a pretty simlair problem with my speakers. I don't know if this will help you but the solution for me was to buy a 'Noise Isolator'.
Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_USz6BbF15FM4A
Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oEY6Bb3RRXDZ7
Ground Loop Noise Isolator
That would be electrical interference.
You can get a ground loop isolator for cheap. That will cut it down or eliminate the noise altogether.
Try a ground loop isolater.
Yeah, I have a 2014 Chevy Cruze, also have Bluetooth built in for calls only. I have the SoundBot. However, you will want a Ground Loop Noise Isolator to remove the whine from the music/audio.
I use this one: Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator Car Audio/Home Stereo System 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dc.FBb0RVGMRQ
SoundBot: Soundbot SB360 Bluetooth 4.0 Car Kit Hands-Free Wireless Talking & Music Streaming Dongle w/ 10W Dual Port 2.1A USB Charger + Magnetic Mounts + Built-in 3.5mm Aux Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RH29CJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Nd.FBbG1Z4EMF
Routing the audio through the PC is the best solution, but if you can't eliminate the static, e.g. with something like this, you should pick up an A-B switch like this, and turn off each source with the switch on the box when you're not using it. That way, you're not sending some of the power that should be driving the speaker into the output port on the other device.
From my experience, most of the time this is a ground loop issue due to too many electronics hooked up to the same ground. To solve this, you need to get a ground loop isolator. I had the same problem as you except the noise was all the time, but mostly at low volume. Even when I turned the volume up high, the noise would stay at a low volume and if the music was loud enough, the hiss would be inaudible. Ground loops manifest themselves differently though and could just sound off when opening certain applications or from even just moving the mouse around. I solved my problem by getting the Mpow Ground Loop Isolator from Amazon. If I were you, I would give it a try before anything else as it only will set you back $9 plus shipping, or free shipping if you have prime.
Here's the link:
Why not try a ground loop isolator? Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2
Might fix the ground loop problem.
But you should still get sound even if you have ground loop.
I use this simple one. Plug the line out from the mixer into the isolator and then the isolator plugs into your pc
How are the Speakers Powered? You might have a floating ground issue?
You could try something like this between the AUX port and the AUX cable: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2
Or a bad AUX cable?
Try picking up a ground loop isolator from amazon. I use this one and it works great Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
If it's a short run to the mixer you can get away with unbalanced connection, but at least grab one of these to eliminate the ground loop. Also, no charging while playing!
Sounds like you need a ground loop isolator, I had to get one of these to fix the static noise in my line-in jack
Yeah I had the buzz too, had to get a ground loop isolator to fix it
Pick up something like one of these, should make it go away.
So I updated the OP:
>Received the JBL LSR305
>So I can hear absolutely no hum or hiss when the speakers are ON without any audio input, even at max volume, even with my ears next to the speakers. It's silent.
>With a source input (TRS, from PC onboard soundcard using this cable) I get hiss when I move the mouse, which I entirely fixed using a ground loop isolator.
>With this setup, it's dead silent when idle, very happy with my purchase.
This may be a cheaper otpion. https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1512497384&sr=8-2&keywords=3.5mm+noise+filter
This has nothing to do with LineageOS. I've had this issue in all ROMs, even going back to the OG Nexus 7 running the ROM that started it all, the one and only Timur ROM.
Basically it's a power issue, and when your DAC doesn't work it can be a combination of several issues so without actually looking at your setup and testing its hard to guess where the problem can lie. I could write an entire article about this but this is not the proper place for this discussion. Anyways I'd first look at getting a USB Isolator if you don't have one already, but depending on your setup you may need to add a capacitor between the DAC and the power supply or maybe even get a separate power supply if your DAC has a tendency to draw too much power. Some people have had success with using a USB Decrapifier like the one made by Schiit.
Bear in mind that a LOT of issues arise out of using a poor quality car charger and/or cable. Most no-brand OTG Y cables are of poor quality (insufficient thickness). I had to shorten my OTG cable by a few inches to make up for the power losses.
Anyways I'm no electrical engineer so I can't give you accurate advice sorry especially without knowing your exact setup, but I suggest asking at the Hydrogen Audio forums, there's plenty of similar posts there already.
Personally I've given up on using DACs in the car because tbh in the end it wasn't worth it especially since when driving I couldn't actually tell the difference between the DAC and playing the audio directly. What did make a significant difference though was getting a good head unit and a ground loop noise isolator. Delivering clean power to your tablet and then filtering the noise further using an isolator makes all the difference.
All hail the $10 Ground loop isolator Ground Loop Isolator
Something like this:https://smile.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2 ?
You may need a ground loop isolator. I bought this one and it fixed the issue for me.
I tried all kinds of settings and failed, tried a USB soundcard and failed, and eventually ended up buying one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have a 2008 Prius with the same issue, I bought this one and it works wonders.
Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nHYFzb0R3M04H
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Its pretty cheap but from what I have read online all ground loop noise isolaters will reduce audio quality.
This will solve your static problem. It's a known issue on the Switch
This will solve your buzz/hum problem. It's a known issue on the Switch
Do you have something similar laying around? Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KdFazbZN47T60
Get yourself one of these to kill that nasty ground loop and enjoy!
Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fTO.ybKNFTJFV
He's right! You will need a ground loop noise isolator like this one:
I ran into this problem with my professional setup at my church.Your gonna need a "Ground loop isolator" I haven't used this one in particular but this is what I found on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pbi3ybMG2BM8A
I've been able to stop the ground loop noise in my setup by installing a ground loop isolator.
Forgot to mention that I use this too. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_8k2m55I3Z98tI
I had a ton of interference in the monitors.
I purchased this one, and it has fixed the issue. Also, I would recommend getting a better car charger as well.
I have this one.
The same thing happens to most people in cars. What you need is a ground loop isolator
The Wirecutter has a good round up of bluetooth car kits. Saves heaps of research.
I got the Himbox HB-01, while it doesn't support APT-X the new one does, and the stock stereo is probably the limiting factor in sound quality. To get google now working, i installed an app "BT Gnow". The New HB-01+ i believe would resolve both apt-x and google now out of the box.
Note when you have a device such a phone or bluetooth car kit connected to both aux and usb, you may get noise in some vehicles. It varies by device and by vehicle. While in my car the noise is minimal, I still use a ground loop isolator to eliminate it entirely. You'll notice that the wirecutter mentions the newer HB-01+ has a whine, i'd wager that this may be eliminated with a ground loop isolator.
I ended up getting two of these after some internet searching.
They did the job extremely well.
What's the difference between those isolators and the ones like these? https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475195195&sr=8-1&keywords=ground+loop
Have you tried a ground loop noise isolator? I had bad static when using the aux port (located in the center console) but that isolator completely fixed it.
As for BT, this guy has been working flawlessly for my purposes. You may want to look at other devices with more features since you would be using it way more than I do.
Is it like on old AM radio in cars you hear the engine noise in the radio? If so try this, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I had a lot of noise in my PC setup and that fixed it for me.
If you can't find suitable speakers that have an Optical Input, then you can use the Astro Mixamp Pro TR $130 (it has a STREAM port on the back).
With a ground loop noise isolator to get rid of any whining noises...
Then any typical 3.5mm jack speakers will work. I use this setup on my PS4 with a set of Logitech speakers on my desk and swap between this and my Sennheiser Game One headset.
Ah-ha. I was going to suggest buying a ground loop isolator and plugging it in between your PC and headset. If the problem turns up again, something for you to consider.
You will want a ground loop isolator.
It will eliminate the car noise.
I had that problem too but getting a groud isolator fixed it
This works well for the ground loop noise reduction. It is a little larger then a Chapstick. $10
If it's from your speakers, you can most likely fix that with a ground loop like this one for $11.
anyone knows where i can find something like this https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2
I have JBL305s which I use straight from my computer with a line isolator. The one I have is something like this:
A DAC would give me a physical volume control which would be handy sometimes - but I dont know that it would give me any better sound quality. It's basically processing the sound in the same way that your computer is already doing, but with the advantage of doing it externally from your computer and away from all the other electrical parts inside the computer that might interfere with it.
A decent DAC is $100+. So personally I would just try the speakers first, then see if you need a line isolator, then see you if need a DAC.
Put this in between the 3.5mm from your controller to the headset
It must be the ground loop isolator I got. I am using audacity to record, and playing it back to test it out. Not streaming yet.
Before I installed ground loop isolator it was in stereo, and after I installed it is mono. This is what I am using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I need a ground loop isolator. See this video if you want: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sm77C6GLAsk