You can buy an isolation lightbox off amazon. Mine came with mini-seamless backdrops. The other option is photographing from above on a white surface with a flash diffuser.
Look at www.redwillowfabrics.com for an example of the latter.
I use this lightbox: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GKGGICC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_QFT9VPGGG7JPRPDVP6MG
Well that is what I said when I got my first printer. Now I don’t use PLA at all, I print only PETG and ABS and even built a Voron for special materials only printing. If you get into design your own stuff you will find very soon that a 3D printer is a very powerful tool and know what material to use depending of the project and be able of use that material is very important. You will get there, only PLA is a very limiting in many ways.
Btw.. ABS is not that hard to use. Get a photo booth like this one:
Neewer 24x24 inch/60x60 cm Photo Studio Shooting Tent Light Cube Diffusion Soft Box Kit with 4 Colors Backdrops (Red Dark Blue Black White) for Photography https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GKGGICC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_GNHYSC9VH7KVGSQC22GJ
Put your Prusa inside and you got all you need to print with ABS.
I had similar issues and came to a solution. Let me take the educated guess, that your lightbox has LED lights in its roof? This led to me to consistent overexposed minis and very harsh shadows. Generally you want to avoid direct light on your mini. For really great pictures you want a box made of a light transparent fabric which diffuses the light and separately one or two very bright daylight lightsources.
Link attached may give you an idea: https://www.amazon.de/Neewer-Fotostudio-Lichtwürfel-Soft-Box-Set-Hintergründe/dp/B00GKGGICC/ref=asc_df_B00GKGGICC/?tag=googshopde-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=308747277000&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11138312501859925189&hvpone=&h...
Thank you!! As for the light box I got one from Amazon, it's all white and it comes with different colored backdrops but I just went to Walmart and got a felt one. The material that come with the kit kinda suck lol
Neewer 24x24 inch/60x60 cm Photo Studio Shooting Tent Light Cube Diffusion Soft Box Kit with 4 Colors Backdrops (Red Dark Blue Black White) for Photography https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GKGGICC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gylDCbRY8VVMN
I just picked up a cheap light box but I'm struggling to find some poster board that would go well with it. Ideally looking for one white, one black, 24" wide and up to 30" in height, I'd think, to suit the dimensions of the box and to reach beneath the model itself.
Amazon is being... less than helpful, as it's recommending completely unrelated products pr $60 sheets of cardboard. Any recommendations?
A photo tent like this one will do quite a bit :D And it's also really great no matter what to keep drafts off your prints and protect the printer from dust.
Personally I prefer the shower curtain tent because it's easier to access the printer, but to make that you need PVC pipes, magnets and a sewing machine. Alternatively, a real enclosure like a box of plexiglass or something will be even better. You can even put accoustic foam on the "walls" to further dampen it :D
Start with the feet though - you can print those out right now, and PLA is perfectly fine :D
I've been using my Sony A7RII since its my favorite camea witha 24-105 f/4 lens. Its a pricy set up but I've been doing photography for other things. I'd recommend either the sony a6000 or a5100 really good lightweight camera's paired with a 50mm 1.8 You'll get great photo's for a budget. even a good smartphone like the Iphone x or my favorite the google pixel 2 you can get a really nice shot. a photobooth can be simple you can buy one on amazon for ~$20 or get creative and use whats around you for a dynamic setting. Lighting goes hand in hand with the booth setting natural light is great but if you buy the booth off amazon use led bulbs on lamps and shine it through each side of the booth for even lighting.
Just a friendly suggestion:
Try putting your subject inside a light tent like this for optimal shadow free lighting:
Beautiful.
Here's a cheap lightbox I picked up from Amazon a few days ago. I got the 24"x24" because I'm bad at reading, but there's a few smaller ones that are pretty well priced.
You don't need a fancy lens. You need a light box.
Some high-CRI fluorescent bulbs or off-camera flashes and you're set.
Mainboard: MKS Gen L V1.3(or any mainboard of choice that can run external stepper drivers, like the SKR board)
Stepper drivers: TMC2208
Hotend and mainboard fans: Noctua 4010 12v. You can serial connect them or you can use buck converters to get to 12v. Keep in mind that serial connecting means you can't enable the auto hotend fan to start only after 50 degrees
PSU fan: This fan cover actually worked really well. Alternatively you can make a control box with the mainboard and the PSU all cooled by a large, quiet Noctua fan(or 2 serial connected)
Stepper dampers: No. Do not install stepper dampers if you run TMC2208s, they are obsolete and you get better motor cooling without dampers. You won't ruin your motos overnight, so dampers aren't a terrible thing, but your motors will theoretically last longer without. Add dampers only if you don't use silent stepper drivers as dampers DO work a lot without the drivers
Optional: If you still want to remove that last sliver of noise, you can print dampening feet for your printer. It looks silly, but they work a LOT. If you don't run an almost airtight enclosure like this one, I strongly suggest these. Just make sure the surface below your printer is very stable, that's why I added a very heavy garden stone below my enclosure
Googly eyes: These will keep eyes on your cooling, making sure your Whimsymeter doesn't drop below "Delightful"
​
All of the above mods make a huge impact on noise levels, ESPECIALLY the drivers. And to finish it all off, a closed, almost airtight enclosure like the one I built here will remove most of the noise you get from your part cooling blower. I have the 5015 blower on mine and can only actually hear it if I really listen for it. If you don't want an enclosure like this, a photo tent off Amazon works as a draft catcher, temperature increaser and does kind of muffle sound a little. Enclosures are always a good idea, be they LACK table enclosures, acrylic cubes or photo tents
$20 for a stack of cut acrylic? You've got to do a much better job at explaining the value proposition here. Especially when the average person is not going to have any idea what it is you're selling.
Also - pictures, pictures, pictures. The average person will spend 5 seconds on your website tops, read 1 sentence (the heading), look at the pics, and leave. Your pictures look like they were taken in your backyard in the dark. Go buy:
One of these pop up studios: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer%C2%AE-Shooting-Diffusion-Backdrops-Photography/dp/B00GKGGICC/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1474099811&sr=1-1&keywords=pop+up+photo+booth
3 of these clamp lamps: https://www.amazon.com/Woods-8-5-Inch-Reflector-150-Watt-6-Foot/dp/B000HHQ94C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474099983&sr=8-1&keywords=Clamp+Light+with+Grip+work+light+reflector
And a pack of these daylight bulbs: https://www.amazon.com/EcoSmart-5000K-Spiral-Daylight-4-Pack/dp/B0042UN1U0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474100072&sr=8-3&keywords=daylight+bulb
And download paint.net (or torrent photoshop) to edit your photos. You want amazon style photos - big, bright, clear, no/white background, and great detail.
Also, work on your shopify website. Spend a few hours - its not hard to modify an existing theme to look good. You need some color and a more clean layout. The site does not look professional. Why would a customer trust you if your store front looks amateur? They'll leave before they even look at your products.
If you believe in this niche, great. Make the website slick, get good pictures, think about why YOU would purchase these and write up some good copy, and then go drum up some business by participating in a related forum / subreddit / listserv / whatever. Is this actually a problem people need solving? You'll find out.
P.S. I know those blacklight photos look cool and all, but do your customers actually care? Are you going to use this product under blacklight? If not, you're probably turning off anyone older than highschool age.
P.P.S. Stop referring to yourself as cardistry-cards in the copy. The hyphen isn't doing you any favors. Shorten to CC or Cardistry if you're even going to do the 3rd person thing.
You can pretty much get away with a cheap tripod from amazon, depending on your set-up (cheap DSLR, or even a mid-range smartphone w/ a decent camera).
For lighting, you essentially need about 2-3 desk lamps that are shine at your model. If you do a 2-lamp setup, you set both lamps shining at your kit at a 45 degree angle, have one light closer to your model (main light) and one farther away (fill light). You may also checkout this guide from u/Saint-ism that goes into way more details: http://www.saint-ism.com/2017/08/gunpla-photography-lighting/
Backdrops are important - it keeps the focus on your model and reflect some light back, allowing for more clarity in your shorts. You CAN get away with simply using a white construction paper as your backdrop, but you can also buy a relatively cheap light tent on amazon for ~$20 USD. https://smile.amazon.com/Neewer-Shooting-Diffusion-Backdrops-Photography/dp/B00GKGGICC/ref=sr_1_6_acs_ac_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1534736268&sr=1-6-acs&keywords=light+tent should fit most MG kits.
If you don't intend to spend a lot of money on equipments like these, simply 2 desk lamps should already make your pictures look significantly better. The desk lamps may need a white cloth wrap over it to help "diffuse" the light so it shines evenly on your model and prevents harsh lighting. Feel free to PM me, I am more than happy to help you figure out what you need.
Hopefully the painting lol
BUT, if you're interested in maybe trying to up your photo game, here is a copy/paste about my photo setup:
My photo setup isn't super fancy. In fact the only really "expensive" or "specialized" piece is a DSLR camera with a Macro Lens. My camera is a Pentax Kx. It's was a mid-level DSLR when it came out, in 2009 😆 So you camera doesn't need to be the newest/bestest. I'm using a 100mm Macro/Portrait lens which is the most "specialize" part of the setup. These days, however, you can get away with a nice camera phone in a lot cases.
I'm using a cheap light box and a pair of cheap lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GKGGICC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T8FBZC2
I put the lights about 2 ft from the light box, on the left and right and turn off all of the other lights in room. I set the camera to "Av" mode, lock the ISO low (400ish), and set the F-stop to a level that gives me the depth of focus I want (ie: how much of the image depth is crisp and how much is blurry), usually somewhere between 9 and 14.
The last key element is that I use a cheap tripod and I set the camera to have a 2 second delay between the button push and the time the photo takes. This lets the minor vibrations from pushing the button dissipate before the photo takes.
The exposure time will be long with the low ISO, low light, and likely high F-stop: 2-30s
You'll need to take some test photos to make adjustments. Depth of focus can be adjusted with F-stop. Brightness can be adjusted with "Exposure Correction".
It sounds complicated but, with a little experimentation you'll start to understand the ins and outs.
Here is a pic of my setup (but with the room lights on so you can see it): https://i.imgur.com/OPnO6HP.jpg
when shooting chrome you probably want to aim your flash up at the ceiling and let it bounce. Or put the object in a white box.
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Shooting-Diffusion-Backdrops-Photography/dp/B00GKGGICC
I'm using a cheap light box and a pair of cheap lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GKGGICC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T8FBZC2
My camera is a Pentax Kx. It's was a mid-level DSLR when it came out, in 2009 😆
I'm using a 100mm Macro/Portrait lens which is probably the most "specialize" part of the setup.
I put the lights about 2 ft from the light box, on the left and right and turn off all of the other lights in room. I set the camera to "Av" mode, lock the ISO low (400-800), and set the F-stop to a level that gives me the depth of focus I want (ie: how much of the image depth is crisp and how much is blurry), usually somewhere between 9 and 14.
The last key element is that I use a cheap tripod and I set the camera to have a 2 second delay between the button push and the time the photo takes. This lets the minor vibrations from pushing the button dissipate before the photo takes.
The exposure time will be long with the low ISO, low light, and likely high F-stop: 2-30s
You'll need to take some test photos to make adjustments. Depth of focus can be adjusted with F-stop. Brightness can be adjusted with "Exposure Correction".
It sounds complicated but, with a little experimentation you'll start to understand the ins and outs.
Here is a pic of my setup (but with the room lights on so you can see it): https://i.imgur.com/OPnO6HP.jpg
Here is a collage of my results: https://steamforge.net/photos/upload/2020/08/01/20200801132834-0c4db4c3.png
The things I suggest to quiet your printer down a LOT:
I'm using a cheap light box and a pair of cheap lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GKGGICC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T8FBZC2
My camera is a Pentax Kx. It's was a mid-level DSLR when it came out, in 2009 😆
I'm using a 100mm Macro/Portrait lens which is probably the most "specialize" part of the setup.
I put the lights about 2 ft from the light box, on the left and right and turn off all of the other lights in room. I set the camera to "Av" mode, lock the ISO low (400-800), and set the F-stop to a level that gives me the depth of focus I want (ie: how much of the image depth is crisp and how much is blurry), usually somewhere between 9 and 14.
The last key element is that I use a cheap tripod and I set the camera to have a 2 second delay between the button push and the time the photo takes. This lets the minor vibrations from pushing the button dissipate before the photo takes.
The exposure time will be long with the low ISO, low light, and likely high F-stop: 2-30s
You'll need to take some test photos to make adjustments. Depth of focus can be adjusted with F-stop. Brightness can be adjusted with "Exposure Correction".
It sounds complicated but, with a little experimentation you'll start to understand the ins and outs.
​
Here is a pic of my setup (but with the room lights on so you can see it): https://i.imgur.com/OPnO6HP.jpg
Here is a collage of my results: https://steamforge.net/photos/upload/2020/08/01/20200801132834-0c4db4c3.png
My photo setup is good, but it's not great or magic.
I'm using a cheap light box and a pair of cheap lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GKGGICC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T8FBZC2
My camera is a Pentax Kx. It's was a mid-level DSLR when it came out, in 2009 😆
I'm using a 100mm Macro/Portrait lens which is probably the most "specialize" part of the setup.
I put the lights about 2 ft from the light box, on the left and right and turn off all of the other lights in room. I set the camera to "Av" mode, lock the ISO low (400-800), and set the F-stop to a level that gives me the depth of focus I want (ie: how much of the image depth is crisp and how much is blurry), usually somewhere between 9 and 14.
The last key element is that I use a cheap tripod and I set the camera to have a 2 second delay between the button push and the time the photo takes. This lets the minor vibrations from pushing the button dissipate before the photo takes.
The exposure time will be long with the low ISO, low light, and likely high F-stop: 2-30s
You'll need to take some test photos to make adjustments. Depth of focus can be adjusted with F-stop. Brightness can be adjusted with "Exposure Correction".
It sounds complicated but, with a little experimentation you'll start to understand the ins and outs.
Here is a pic of my setup (but with the room lights on so you can see it): https://i.imgur.com/OPnO6HP.jpg
Here is a collage of my results: https://steamforge.net/photos/upload/2020/08/01/20200801132834-0c4db4c3.png
If your vases can fit inside a light tent, that might be the way to go, if you just want white-background product shots for eBay. You just have to find one big enough to give you enough elbow room. If you don't go with the light tent, you can use either umbrellas or a softbox. Most folks start with a light tent and just desk lamps or the like, but strobes give you much more light to work with. You can also DIY light tents.
You might still need two lightstands, or some other way to position the lights where you want them. Just blasting from the right and the left isn't great. You may want one light to be angled down or another one angled up.
The softbox would require a bracket, an umbrella can use either a bracket or an umbrella swivel. The swivels can also be used with tripods so long as the swivels came with a spigot that can screw onto the 1/4"x20 bolt of the tripod. Or you can DIY some clamps. I like this style of swivel because they pack small and tend to come with the spigot, but the small knob can make tilt adjustments more of a hassle than a full-size swivel with a handle.
Generally, the size of the modifiers (and lights) you want to use, if you want softer shadows, depend on the size of the subjects. You generally want a modifier that's the same (or bigger) size. An umbrella can be a light grenade scattering light everywhere (if used shoot-through), while a softbox gives you greater control over the spill of the light. Softboxes tend to be more of a PITA to set up, but more versatile, while umbrellas are cheaper but more convenient. Which you prefer depends on the type of look you're trying to achieve. But for product shooting, I think softboxes might be a better way to go.
If you want hard-edged light, then you don't need modifiers. You can just use the bare flash. Again, depends on the look you're going for. Lighting isn't so much about just adding more light, as it is about creating/controlling the light.
Thanks!
The photo setup is good, but it's not great or magic.
I'm using a cheap light box and a pair of cheap lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GKGGICC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T8FBZC2
My camera is a Pentax Kx. It's was a mid-level DSLR when it came out, in 2009 😆
I'm using a 100mm Macro/Portrait lens which is probably the most "specialize" part of the setup.
I put the lights about 3 ft from the light box, on the left and right and turn off all of the other lights in room. I set the camera to "Macro" mode, lock the ISO low (400-800), and set the F-stop to a level that gives me the depth of focus I want (ie: how much of the image depth is crisp and how much is blurry).
The last key element is that I use a cheap tripod and I set the camera to have a 2 second delay between the button push and the time the photo takes. This lets the minor vibrations from pushing the button dissipate before the photo takes.
The exposure time will be long with the low ISO, low light, and likely high F-stop: 2-30s
You'll need to take some test photos to make adjustments. Depth of focus can be adjusted with F-stop. Brightness can be adjusted with "Exposure Correction".
It sounds complicated but, with a little experimentation you'll start to understand the ins and outs.
Neewer brand 24" / 60cm size. I got them on Amazon for ~$20 USD each: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GKGGICC
I tried taking some watch pictures using a lightbox (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GKGGICC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and some lights (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L5TGT82/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on either side. I also had a glossy acrylic black board underneath the watch.
Is there any way to eliminate or reduce the white reflection of the photobox on the glossy black board? Also, any general advice/constructive criticism is greatly appreciated.
Created a DRIPLESS COFFEE MUG that just went SALE from $14.99 to $9.99 for BLACK FRIDAY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GKGGICC/ref=psdc_3444581_t3_B000BFYXGG
​
First time product designer + first time Amazon seller here = this is hard.
Usually work over 65 hrs a week in film industry and cooked Thanksgiving for my family also.
I'm so tired I could eat a horse
​
​
Exactly. They also have lightbox styles such as this one. You can even buy 1 of these, cut up off each side and mount them in front of your lights. You want them to be a few inches off of the bulb to get quality diffusion and prevent the diffuser from melting/catching fire (be careful! Some lights get very hot). If you need smaller lights as well, Amazon has lots of all-in-one kits such this one
$20 on amazon atm. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GKGGICC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
There are bundles with lamps included but I've heard conflicting accounts that the ones packed in are not so good. Ended up getting dedicated flexible stem lamps that I can use for other things when not taking photographs. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071CWK42N/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
But yeah, just about the price of an MG.
Thank you! Yeah, no problem. Here's my janky "studio" setup in our spare bedroom. Light box, lights, flash + trigger
I assume the pictures you gave us were from your phone. Which is fine. I wouldn't bother getting a real camera unless you have other uses for it. All of these were taken with my phone using this $20 light box off amazon, though I grabbed it when it was $15. A good camera can correct for bad lighting, but it's generally much cheaper/easier to correct the lighting.
Mold lines are the bits of plastic left over on the model where the mold meets when it's being cast. If you look at arm on the left grunt in your first picture you can see a distinct line going down the middle of it. Mold lines vary from model to model and between manufacturers in severity, but pretty much everything has them. They can be hard to see unpainted, but become very visible when painted, and especially when drybrushing. You can remove them with sandpaper or scrape them off the flat edge of a hobby knife.
There's a couple different ways you can go about washes. I just use the citadel shades from my local store. They are bit pricey, but should last me a very long time. If those aren't an option or you want to save the cash, making your own is a fine option. But you don't have to use the glossy floor wax. Distilled water works just fine, and a couple of drops of flow aid help it go where you want it to. If you are dead set on the magic wash, you can add matte medium to tone it down, or top coat the model with a flat coat when you are done. Testor's Dullcote is my favorite option for this.
It's this!
Works great if you get decent lighting.
I use a (fairly old) DSLR with a Macro Lens... but maybe something in my process (such as lighting or photo timer) could help you.
My photo setup is good, but it's not great or magic.
I'm using a cheap light box and a pair of cheap lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GKGGICC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T8FBZC2
My camera is a Pentax Kx. It's was a mid-level DSLR when it came out, in 2009 😆
I'm using a 100mm Macro/Portrait lens which is probably the most "specialize" part of the setup.
I put the lights about 2 ft from the light box, on the left and right and turn off all of the other lights in room. I set the camera to "Av" mode, lock the ISO low (400-800), and set the F-stop to a level that gives me the depth of focus I want (ie: how much of the image depth is crisp and how much is blurry), usually somewhere between 9 and 14.
The last key element is that I use a cheap tripod and I set the camera to have a 2 second delay between the button push and the time the photo takes. This lets the minor vibrations from pushing the button dissipate before the photo takes.
The exposure time will be long with the low ISO, low light, and likely high F-stop: 2-30s
You'll need to take some test photos to make adjustments. Depth of focus can be adjusted with F-stop. Brightness can be adjusted with "Exposure Correction".
It sounds complicated but, with a little experimentation you'll start to understand the ins and outs.
Here is a pic of my setup (but with the room lights on so you can see it): https://i.imgur.com/OPnO6HP.jpg
Here is a collage of my results: https://steamforge.net/photos/upload/2020/08/01/20200801132834-0c4db4c3.png