Removing the button was a pain in the a**.
I used relative fine pliers. That worked, but the brass got scratched a bit.
If you have a 3D printer, you could try to print a tool that grabs all the holes at once. Or something like this could be better than pliers.
I used that tool that I think they use on camera lenses. Like this Neewer Camera Lens Openning Repairing Tool Kit Includes: 10-100mm Lens Repair Set with 3 Tips, 6 Screws and 2 Hexagon Wrench for Canon Nikon Sony Olympus DSLR Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0734PH87W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Y9GBWFZHH9W9248YZNZC
That will not work on a Olight bezel.
They're not threaded.
I see everyone has pretty much answered this, but I figured I'd throw in an Amazon link for the tool I use and love.
I use camera camera lens wrenches like these
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Camera-Lens-Openning-Repairing/dp/B0734PH87W
Here's what I use:
For the lenses, the friction wrenches are used to easily remove the front ring off the lens (the ring with the wording on the front). Then for the interior rings you'll need the spanner tool; you'll see two notches directly opposite each other on the front retaining ring, so you'll use the spanner to remove that ring using the notches. Depending on the lens, there may also be some screws to remove before you can pull the front element out. If you need to remove the rear element, you can do that by going in through the back instead.
Either way you go, have a large workspace so you can place the parts on your table in the order and orientation that they need to go back in. If you need to clean the aperture blades because they're sticking, do so very carefully and try to avoid removing them. Getting them back together can be difficult; I generally avoid doing it at all costs.
If you're just looking to clean a dirty lens, the wipes I linked to above are excellent for cleaning the glass without messing up the coating. They wipe the fungus and dust off easily and dry clean. They're individually wrapped and they dry quickly once opened, so don't open them until they're needed.
I haven't had to fix an OM meter. The closest I've come is on my Mamiya 1000DTL, which had a meter that was inoperative. The problem in that case was that the wires connecting the battery terminal to the light meter had corroded, so the connection was bad. I snipped off the corroded ends and stripped a little of the insulation to expose the wire ends and verified the meter worked by touching the battery directly to the wires. Now I have to solder the wires back onto the battery terminal, I haven't gotten around to that part yet.
The camera looked good to me. That much fungus would be clearly visible, and I didn't see any.
I suggest you buy the following:
Use this to remove the front element from the shutter.
If that fungus is on the rear element, use a remote shutter release to lock the shutter open. That will give you access to the inner side of the rear element.
You'll then need the following:
It's designed to polish plastic, so is a very mild abrasive. Use the #2 on the end of a Q-tip, and go slowly. Once the fungus is gone, use the #1 as the "clean up fluid". Place a few drops on the lens, then use a Q-tip to clean up. Use as many Q-tips as necessary.
This will be cheaper than sending the camera back, and will give you some experience working on the lens elements. Once you're done, you'll still have the tools.
You might find some vintage or antique camera in a shop with a badly fogged lens. With the spanner and plastic polish, most lenses can be disassembled and cleaned. You could flip the lens for big $$ if you do it right.
That's your option. I make no guarantees with my cameras, as I don't know which one you're showing me.